Class __iLji_- 
Book 

Copyright 

CDEXRIGHT DEPOSm 



f 



GARDEN GUIDE 

THE AMATEUR GARDENERS' 

m . Handbook 




PRACTICAL 
LANDSCAPE 
GARDENING 

By ROBERT B. CRIDLAND, Landscape Architect 

The author freely gave of his great knowl- 
edge when he wrote this splendid book. 
On the theory that "every house in a com- 
munity should contribute toward the enjoy-, 
ment of the inhabitants thereof, in some little 
artistic excellence," the writer goes about 
showing how to place the house, grade the. 
landscape and plan and plant intelligently^ 
No pages are wasted in useless talk. 



Description of Chapter Illustrations 



1 — ^The Importance of All Careful 

Planning. — Six halftone illustrations show- 
ing completed results. 

2 — Locating the House. — Seven line 
drawings of studies of house locations on 
small lots and one showing best exposure 
for the house in its relation to the sun. 

3 — Arrangements of Walks, Drives 
and Entrances. — Twelve illustrations of 
approaches or entrances, ten driveways and 
three walks. 

4 — Construction of Walks and Drives. 
— Twenty-five teaching illustrations of 
cement, macadam, flagstone, slate and other 
walks, cement approaches and gutters, bi- 
tuminous and cement driveways, etc. 

5 — Lawns and Their Grading, Con- 
struction and Upkeep. — Nine line cuts 
showing correct grading under varjang 
conditions, and three halftone illustrations 
of charming lawn views properly treated. 

6 — Ornamental Planting of Trees and 
Shrubs. — ;Twenty-four fine halftones illus- 
trating suitable backgrounds, base plant- 
ings, specimen trees for the lawn, boundary 



plantings, border plantings, etc., together ,' 
with numerous line cuts showing how to ^ 
plant and move trees, lay out orna- 
mental vegetable garden, lawn groupings, 
etc. 

7 — The Flower Garden. — Seventeen 
halftones of properly laid out gardens with^ 
several planting plans and keys thereto. 

8 — Architectural Features. — Eight 
halftones showing bird bath, fountains and 
pools, garden seats, pergolas and other 
features, together with plans for the con- 
struction of garden houses, entrances, 
pergolas, etc. 

9 — Hardy Borders and Rose Gardens. 
— Fifteen attractive halftones and plans of 
borders and rose gardens. 

10— Wild Gardens and Rock Gar- 
dens. — Seven illustrations, together with 
plan showing how to build a dry retaining 
wall for planting 

11 — Planting Plans.; — Nineteen plans 
showing a variety of artistic arrangements 
possible on small properties. These plans 
are keyed and accomoanied by planting lists 
which have been tested in actual practice . 



PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING is an entirely different 
book from any landscape treatise previously written, because it fits into 
your wants, considers practicability equally with the laws of art and 
beauty, and covers every detail. It contains 91 photographic illustrations, 
67 sketches and 33 plans, 19 of which are planting plans accompanied by 
planting keys. 

The type is large and clear; the paper is enamel; the binding 
durable. The color plate on front cover is irresistibly attrac- 
tive; it portrays a wonderful landscape scene. 276 pages. 
Size, 6x8 in. Prospectus on application. Second edition, 
revised. Price, delivery postpaid $2.15 



A. T. DE LA MARE CO. Inc. 438 to 448 West 3Zth St. NEW YORK 



Garden Guide 

THE AMATEUR GARDENERS' 
HANDBOOK 

Tells you how to raise Vegetables, Fruits and Flowers. 
How to Plan, Plant and Maintain the Home Grounds, 
the Suburban Garden, the City Plot. How to Care for 
Roses and Other Favorite Flowers, Hardy Plants, 
Trees, Shrubs, Lawns, Porch Plants and Window 
Boxes. With Chapters on Pruning, Propagation, Ferti- 
lizers, Diseases, Insect Pests, Weeds, Tools, Winter 
Storage, Canning, Birds, Garden Furniture and' 1001 
Practical Pointers 



Profusely illustrated with over 275 teaching plans and diagrams 
and reproduced photographs, all made expressly 
for this Standard Text Book 



Writers of Principal Chapters 


The Vegetable Garden 


Bungalow Gardens, 


F. F, Rockwell 
A. G. Peterkin 


Lawn and Garden Weeds, 


Animal Life in the Garden, 


The Fruit Garden 


E. L. D. Seymour 


A. J. Loveless 


The Flower Garden, 


Prof. M. G. Kains 


Pruning, Propagation, 


Home Ground Planting 


Lawns, Trees, Shrubs, etc. 


Robert B. Cridland 


Prof. A. C. Hottes 


Insect Pests 


Fertilizers 

Prof. Thos. H. White 


Prof. W. E. Brixton 


Canning 


Diseases of Plants 


A. G. Peterk. v 


Edwin F. Hopkins 


Birds in the /arden 


H. H. Whetzel 


Chas. Livingston Bull 



Edited by A. T. DE LA MARE 



NEW YORK: 

A. T. De La Mare Company, Inc. 438 to 448 West 37th Street 



i 



6^ 



■J 



First Edition 
Copyright, March 15, 1917 

Second Edition, Revised 
Copyright, 1917 

Third Edition, Revi^d and Enlarged 
Copyright, March, 1918 

Fourth Edition, Revised and Enlarged 
Copyright, March, 1920 



A. T. De La Mare Company, Inc. 
New York 

All Rights Reserved 



©CI.A585620 



CONTENTS 



(Readers are requested always to consult the Index to Contents which will be found 
in the final pages of this book. Any general subject can, however, be located quickly and 
easily by means of the following synopsis of chapters, each of which is practically complete 
in itself). 

CHAPTER I— Planning the Home Grounds 

First Considerations in the Composition of a Garden — Drives — Lawns 
— Locating the DweUing House — Treatment of the Shrubs, Belts, Borders, 
Beds— A Plea for Greater Seclusion — Home Grounds — Planting Plans and 
Keys thereto. - Pp. 13-33 

CHAPTER II— Lawns and Grass Plots 

Seed Mixtures — Sowing — Yearly Care — Mowing — Rolling — Weeding 
—Turfing. Pp. 34-38 

CHAPTER III— Hedges and Fences 

Hedges of Privet, Berberis, Siberian Dogwood, Box, Yew,^ Ilex, 
Buckthorn, Crataegus Oxycantha, Hemlock, Arborvitae and Norway 
Spruce — Location — Soil — Fences with Climbers. Pp. 39-42 

CHAPTER IV— Trees and Shrubs 

Trees for Shade and Shelter upon the Lawn — Street Trees — Ever- 
greens — Planting Trees — Best Shrubs — Shrubs with Edible Berries — 
Evergreen Shrubs — Ground Cover and Low Growing Shrubs — Low 
Growing and Trailing Shrubs for Various Purposes — Bushes for Wet 
Places — Flowering the Branches of Shrubs Indoors — Blooming Dates of 
Trees, Shrubs and Climbers — How to Treat Nursery Stock and Material 
Gathered from the Wild. Pp. 43-63 

CHAPTER V— The Rose Garden 

Best Soils — Width of Beds — Preparation of Soil — Time to Plant — 
Distance Apart — Summer Treatment — Insects — Diseases — Kinds of Roses 
— Brier Roses — Chmbing Roses — Tea Roses — Hybrid Teas — Hybrid 
Perpetuals — Pernetiana, Moss and Polyantha Roses. Pp. 64-74 

CHAPTER VI— Hardy Perennials for the Permanent Garden 

Combinations of Perennials — Considerations for a Perennial Border 
— Situation of Border — Preparation of Soil — Planting — Spring Planting 
— Autumn Planting — Cultivation — Staking — Removal of Old Flowers and 
Seed Pods — Necessity for Replanting — List of Indispensable Hardy Per- 
ennials — General Selection of Hardy Flowers — Medium Tall Perennials 
— Dwarf Perennials — Plans for Perennial Borders. Pp. 75-87 

CHAPTER VII— Annuals and Biennials 

Care in Pmchasing Seed — Sowing — Transplanting — Time to Sow 
Out-of-Doors — Preparation of Soil — Keeping Seed Pods Removed — Vines 
— Combinations of Annuals — Everlasting Flowers — Annuals Useful for 
Cut Flowers — Lesser Known Annuals — Annuals for Edging Beds of Other 
Plants — Foliage Annuals — Biennials — Germination Table. Pp. 88-102 

CHAPTER VIII— Some Garden Favorites and How to Grow Them 

Asters — Cannas — Campanulas — Coleus — Columbines — Dahlias — 
Chrysanthemums and Daisies — Delphiniums — Foxglove -Geraniums — 
Gladioh — Hibiscus — Irises — Lathyrus — LiUes — Marigold — Pansies — 
Peonies — Petunias — Phlox — Pinks — Poppy — Salvia — Snapdragons — Sweet 
Peas — Sweet William — Tritomas ~ Tuberous Begonias — Zinnias. 

Pp. 103-140 



GARDEN GUIDE 



CHAPTER IX— Bulbs and Tuberous-Roited Plants 

Preparation of Beds — -Time of Planting — Planting — Naturalizing — 
Culture During the Season — ^Mulching after Planting — Descriptive List 
of Bulbs with Cultural Notes. Pp. 141-148 

CHAPTER X— Hardy Garden Ferns and Water Plants 

Fern Culture — Spores — List of Ferns — Waterside Plants — Water, 
Lilies. Pp. 149-154 

CHAPTER XI— The Rock Garden 

Regions Adapted for Rockeries — Japanese Gardens — Construction of 
Rock Gardens — Material for Rock Gardens. Pp. 155-159 

. CHAPTER XII— Garden Furniture 

Benches — Rustic Chairs, Seats, Screens, Trellises, Pergolas, etc. — 
The Garden House — Fountains— Bird Baths. Pp. 160-166 

CHAPTER XIII— Window Boxes and Porch Plants 

Self-Watering Boxes — Porch Boxes — Hanging Baskets — Concrete 
Boxes — Wicker Window Boxes — Plants for Window Boxes. Pp. 167-172 

CHAPTER XIV— The Vegetable Garden 

Growing Plants for Setting Out — Diggings and Preparing the Soil- 
Sowing and Transplanting — Watering — General Principles of Cultivation 
— Harvesting and Storing — Companion Crops — Succession Crops — 
Cultivation of the Chief Vegetables — Useful Pointers for the Vegetable 
Grower — LabeHng Plants — The Vegetable Garden in Winter — The Home 
Food Winter Storage Cellar— Herbs. Pp. 173-222 

CHAPTER XV— Fruit for the Small Garden 

Apples — Apricots — Cherries — Grapes — Pears — Plums — Peaches 
— Quinces — Strawberries — Currants — Gooseberries — Raspberries — 
Blackberries — Dewberries — Loganberries — Cordon and Espalier Training 
Systems— Ideal Fruit Garden. Pp. 223-243 

CHAPTER XVI— Bungalow or Mid -Summer Gardening 

Pp. 244-247 

CHAPTER XVII— Fertilizers 

Essential Elements — Sources of Supply — Animal Manures — Green 
Manures — Commercial Fertilizers — Bonemeal — Nitrate of Soda — Poultry 
Manure — Lime — Humus — Where and How to Use Fertilizers — Home 
Mixing of Fertilizers— Suitable Fertilizers for Vegetables and Fruits — 
Fertilizing Table — Scarcity of Stable Manure — Some Commercial 
Fertilizers in Common Use. Pp. 248-258 

CHAPTER XVIII— Pruning 

Its Advantage — Pruning Briers and Roses for Landscape Effect — 
Climbing and Polyantha Roses — Hybrid Perpetuals — Hybrid Teas — 
Shrubs — Hedges — Fruit Trees — Evergreens — List of Subjects with Pruning 
Instructions. . Pp. 259-267 



j 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XIX~Plant Propagation 

Mardwdoci Cuttings — Soft-wooded Cuttings — Making Cuttings of 
Perennials — Leaf Cuttings — Root Cuttings — Division of Perennials — 
Seed Sowing: Perennials and Annuals — Vegetables — Starting Flowers 
Indoors — Shrub and Tree Seeds — Grafting — Budding — Layering. 

Pp. 268-277 

CHAPTER XX— Transplanting 

Basic Principles — Transplanting Seedlings — Transplanting to Open 
Ground — What and What Not to Transplant — Transplanting Shrubs 
and Small Trees — Frozen Ball Method of Transplanting — Transplanting 
Fruit Trees — Moving Large Trees — Operations Resembling Transplanting. 

Pp. 278-287 

CHAPTER XXI— Winter Protection 

Leaf Coverings — Protecting Lilies and Roses — Windbreaks for Trees 
and Shrubs — Covering Tender Plants — Facts about Frost. Pp. 288-292 

CHAPTER XXII— Some Insect Pests of Cultivated Plants 

The Life of an Insect — Spraying Equipment — Materials Used to 
Control Insect Pests — Fumigants — Insect Pests arranged by Host Plants. 

Pp. 293-308 

CHAPTER XXIII— Some Common Diseases of Plants and Their 

Control 

How Diseases in Plants are Exhibited — The Cause of Disease — 
Concerning the Control of Diseases — Materials Used to Control Plant 
Diseases — The More Common Diseases of Garden Crops. Pp. 309-318 
CHAPTER XXIV— Lawn and Garden Weeds Pp. 319-321 

♦ CHAPTER XXV— Greenhouses, Hotbeds and Frames 

Advantages of a Greenhouse — What Can be Grown — Greenhouses for 
the Amateur — Span- Roofed Houses — Attached Conservatories — Heating 
— Frames and Their Uses — Management of Hotbeds and Coldframes — 
Useful Little Forcing Structure. Pp. 322-333 

CHAPTER XXVI— Garden Tools Pp. 334-338 

CHAPTER XXVII— Calendar of Garden Operations 

Pp. 339-345 

CHAPTER XXVIII— Animal Life in the Garden 

Poultry Possibilities — Pigeons — Bees — Rabbits — Larger Animals. 

Pp. 346-348 

CHAPTER XXIX— Birds in the Garden 

Best Type of Bird Houses — Feeding the Birds — Berry-bearing Shrubs. 

Pp. 349-356 

CHAPTER XXX— Fruits and Vegetables for Winter 

Canning Fruits and Vegetables — Methods of Canning — Scalding, 
Blanching and Cold-Dipping — Sterilization — Equipment — Jars, Tin Cans 
and Rubbers — Sirups — Flat Soifr — Treatment After Canning — Preserva- 
tive Powder — Instructions for Canning Vegetables and Fruit — Recipes — 
Time Table for Scalding, Blanching and Sterilizing Vegetables and Fruits. 

Pp. 357-364 



CHAPTER XXXI— Topics, Miscellaneous Pp. 365-372 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



{For Geneml Index, See Pages 373 and on) 



Annual and Perennial Flowers, 

Garden of 90 

Apple Tree, Typical Half Stand- 

ard : .226 

Arbor vitse, American .......... 45 

Asters: China '* Comet" 103 

Birds: In Garden, 349 to 356;" 
Nests, How to Build, 351, 

353; Bath 166 

Bulbs : Table Showing Planting 

Depths, 142; Garden View... .144 
Cannas: Easy to Grow, 104; 

Bed of ' 105 

Canterbury Bells 107 

Chrysanthemum Cuttings, Prop- 
agation of 268 

Chrysanthemums, Cluster of 

Hardy 113 

City Houses and Their Rear 

Yards 363 

Coldframe, Double Glass, 329; 

Facing due South 330 

Conservatories for the Amateur 

323, 324, 325 
Cordon System of Training 

Fruit Trees 228 

Crocus: Naturalized in Grass. . 140 
Currant, Standard Grown, 231; 
Pruning Shoots, 232; Propa- 
gation 268 

Daffodil: Typical Flower of. .146 
Dahlia: Hedge of, 110; Roots, 

Propagation of 269 

Espaher System of Training 

Fruit Trees 228 

Flagstaff 368 

Fern Plant Showing Frond, 

.Spores, etc 150 

Forcer, "Gro Quick".. 333 

Forcing Frame 328 

Foxgloves, View of 92 

Fruit Garden, Plan for an Ideal. 24 3 

Fruit Pruning 

Fruit Trees : Trained to Cordon 

and Espaher 

Garden Board 368 

Garden Frame 326 

Garden Furniture 161-166 



Garden Tools .334-33B 

Geranium, Bed of, 115; In plant- 
ing 247 

Gladiolus, Spike of 117 

Grapes, Training System (Mun- 

son's). . . r. 234, 235 

Hardy Flowers: Borders of, 76, 
77; 80; Bringing Flower Gar- 
den Up to House 78 

Hedges: Privet, 41; Hemlock, 

42; Morning Glories 98 

Home Ground Surroundings : 
Working Men's Dwellings, 
Gaimt and Bare, 18; Superb 
Setting for a House, 19; Prop- 
erty of One Acre, 39; Ungain- 
ly, 40; Neglected, 40; Good 
Planting, 47; Effective Mixed 
Planting, 53; Garden Scene in 
Summer, 54; Garden \iew of 
Flower Favorites, 102; Flower 
Garden Surrounded by Arches 
of Roses, 62; An Early Sum- 
mer Scene 101 

Hotbed Frame, Section of 327 

Hotbed, Plan for Planting a. . . .331 

House Front, Locating the 16 

Insect Pests, 46; Named Species 

293-308 

Iris: Bed of, 118; Typical Bloom 
of German, 119; Japanese, 
Colonized, 120; Border 

Backed with Shrubs 121 

Larkspur 95 

Lattice Screen 36 

Lattice Work Fence 36 

Lattice Work, Green 168 

Lawn View, 34; Effective Dis- 
position of 37 

Layout of a Backyard Garden, 
14; of a Suburban Lot. ..... 15 

Lilies, Auratum ... 123 

Mole Traps 366 

Morning Glories — Hedge of 98 

Mouse Trap 365 

Narcissus — Glory of Leiden, 141 ; 
Poeticus, Naturalized. ....... 146 

Oak, Pm, in all its Beauty 43 

Pansies, Bed of 126 

Perennials, Borders of Attractive 
Color Combinations 86, 87 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Peony: Mons. Jules Elie, 128; 
Massed Bed of, 129; Types of, 
131; Rack for Supporting 132 

Pergola, Rustic Frame 65 

Petunia, Single , 127 

Phlox, Bed of 132 

Pinks, Hardy .134 

Planting Plans: For Shady Out- 
look, 17; A (for two adjoining 
houses), 21; B, C, (for prop- 
erty 50x100), 23, 25; D (for 
property 50x150), 27; E (for 
property 75x150), 29; F (for 
property 190 ft. sq.), 31; G 
(for property of two acres) . . 33 

Plane, Oriental 44 

Propagation: Gm'rant Cuttings, 
268; Chrysanthemum Cut- 
tings, 268; Dahlia Roots, 269; 
Artichoke, 260; Soft Wood 
Cuttings, 273; Cleft Graftmg, 
274; Whip Graftings, 275; 
Roses, Budding of, 276; 
Gooseberries, Layering of, 
277; Woody or Half-woody 
Plant Layering 277 

Pruning! Dwarf Rose, 260; 
Shrubs, 261; Young Trees, 
263; Limb of Tree, 263; Rasp- 
berry Canes £66 

Raspberry Canes, Pruning 266 

Rock Gardens: Views of, 156; 
159; Diagram Showing Pre- 
paratory Stages 158 

Roses : Diagrams Showing Plant- 
ing Plans for Beds of Hybrid 
Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, * 
63; Arbor, 64; Summer House, 
Covered with Roses, 70 ; Roses 
Massed Around Sundial, 73; 
Depth to Plant, 50; DiflPer- 
ence between True and False 
Stock, 66; Where to Cut to 
Obtain More Flowers, 67; Bed 
of, 68; Arches of, 137; Prun- 
ing 260 



Rustic Furniture . . . . . .161-166 

Screen for Side or Back of House 69 

Shrubs, Pruning 261 

Spiraea Van Houttei 51 

Spruce, Colorado Blue 46 

Storage Cellar, The Home Food 
Winter 219 

Strawberries, Good Sized 241 

Sweet Peas: Spike of, 136; 

TreUises for 137 

Tools for Garden 334-338 

Transplanting Box for Seedhngs.176 
Tree Planting: Wrong Method, 

49; Correct Method .49 

Tritoma 139 

Tulips, 'Bouton d'Or 148 

Vegetables: Bean, 186; Beet, 
188; Cabbage, 189; Carrots, 
191; CauHflower, 191; Celery 
Plants, 192; Cucumber, 196; 
Egg Plant, 197; Kohl-Rabi, 
198; Lettuce, 199;Muskmelon, 
200'; Onions, 201; Parsnip, 
202; Green Peas, 203; Pota- 
toes, 204, 205; Radish, 206; 
Squash, 210; Swiss Chard, 
211; Tomatoes Trained to a 
Fence, 212; Supporting Rack, 

114: Net, 204; Turnips 213 

Vegetables, Fresh throughout 

the Year.. 343 

Vegetable Garden: An Ama- 
teur's, 173; On a Suburban 
Lot, 175; Views in, 179, 182; 
Working Plans for Model, 
187, 190, 195, 208, 209; 
Handy Device for Marking 

off Rows 193 

Vegetable Planting Table. .344, 345 

Water LUy, Pond of 154 

Waterside Plantings 151, 152 

Window Box, 167, 168, 170, 171; 
Concrete, 169; Self-Water- 
ing... 172 

Winter Protection 288, 289 



The illustrations are on as generous a scale as the text matter. It was 
planned to illustrate freely every discussion in which a picture could assist 
the reader in arriving at a quick upderstanding of the subject. 



PUBLISHERS^ FOREWORD 

BOOK must bear a title, a distinguishing name, and 
so here we have the Gabden Guide, a Handbook for 
the Amateur Gardener, Its scope will he unfolded 
in the Introduction of its editors and compilers. 
The publishers, however, ask a first hearing. The 
conception of the book was not at all limited to the 
purpose indicated by its title. It had a higher aim. 
Through its medium we hope to win thousands from 
crowded city homes to the free air of the open country. 
We seek to preach freedom from the very housetops, 
to induce worthy citizens to cultivate their health as well as their 
gardens and, in so doing, add to their happiness and the years of their 
lives, to do their duty by their children through environing their 
young lives with the surroundings which will make them sturdy, self- 
reliant and observant, and best fit them for their own battle of life. 
Fundamentally, there is no excuse for weakhngs among those raised 
in the country and the out-of-doors. 

The country (and in this term may be included practically all our 
suburban towns, boroughs and villages) is the children's paradise, 
with all Nature's world as their playground. 

The hygienic value of fresh vegetables and fruits is beyond ques- 
tion; their value to the family cannot be estimated in terms of money. 
The writer knows this and thousands of fortunate subiubanites will 
testify to its truth. A good garden is Nature's antidote for all ijls 
flesh is heir to; it certainly does not make for a source of revenue to 
the physician. Fresh fruits and vegetables, each in their season, 
taken from your garden, are something quite difl*erent from the much 
handled and frequently stale products one buys in the city. Nearly 
every vegetable is an annual and can be grown with the first year's 
occupancy, the second Summer the taste for all the small fruits can be 
indulged in to the full and almost before you realize it the young fruit 
trees you set out are in bearing. 

The Cliff Apartment dweller, whose vision is bounded on all 
sides by straight lines of brick and mortar, cement and stone, whose 
life is harried by the janitor, whose quietude is distrubed by the 
noises ov^erhead and below, who cannot enjoy a night's sleep in the 
open without fear of arrest, whose movements to and from business 
are made miserable in trolley, subway .or "L," must surely envy the 
commuter, even though the latter be still made the butt of the irre- 
pressible joker, whom we pardon because, poor man, he knows no 
better. 

Advocacy of social advantages has no particular part in this 
presentation, yet these features have more play in country than in 

8 




FOREWORD 



9 



towns, for the acquaintances made by your children in the former 
will be more permanent and have a larger bearing on their future be- 
cause they are more intimately brought together in their school, their 
play and their daily association. 

Suburban public schools are governed to a great extent .by men 
who have come out from the cities. Their advantages are equal to 
those of the city, perhaps superior, because the classes average smaller; 
high schools abound, and the education of the youth up to the age of 
seventeen or eighteen can thus be obtained near home. 

Life in the suburbs opens the way to a family home — one's very 
own, eliminating forever the yearly move. Don't pay rent — own your 
home so you can do with it as you please. Permanence of location is 
helpful to well-being, so then make a careful selection. Take time 
to make an intelligent choice and, where you settle, make the best of 
it — stick. If you have the funds to pay for the home outright you are 
among the fortunate ones, otherwise the local building and loan asso- 
ciation will take care of you at no greater outlay than rent if you 
own the ground and are considered a good moral risk. Inside of eleven 
years the home is yours and the money which would otherwise have 
gone to a generally indifferent landlord niay be applied to betterments, 
to education or to the purchase of more land. 

Whether it is better to buy than to build depends on circum- 
stances. Painstaking investigation is always in order. 

The family home, the home for your children and quite likely for 
some of your children's children, the home wherein the family tradi- 
tions will linger, surely that is the home that's wanted — the home to 
which your children may return, and the recollection of which will 
brighten the toilsome days they may be forced to spend away from it. 
The family home is the wisest of all investments; it is the foundation 
which makes for family honor and stability. Pedigree adds to the 
stabihty of our country and its institutions, and the family home is the 
source and foundation of true patriotism. 

There is no Springtime in the city, no Autumn. Among the 
bricks and stone the unfolding glories of Spring are unknown to the 
toiler and his family. The city is equally unresponsive to the awaken- 
ing life of the one as it is to the passing glories of the other. A city 
knows but two seasons, Summer and Winter; the reviving Spring and 
glorious Autumn are both unknown. 

Do not let it be said of you: *The city was his country; he loved 
better to hear the trolley car rattle than the birds carol." The city 
may be a good place to work in; it undoubtedly is; but if all our homes 
could be in the freedom of the country we would be a superior race. 

A. T. p. 



INTRODUCTION TO FIRST EDITION 



E all have our dream gardens in which stretches of smooth 
lawns appear, with hedges of sweet smelling shrubs like 
Brier Roses, Lavender, Rosemary, or of neat leaved 
Box, such as one sees at the old home of George Wash- 
ington at Mt. Yernon. We have our scenes of Rose beds 
encircled by grass or sand covered paths, with a little 
fountain and bird bath nearby, a cozy arbor or rest house off to one 
side, borders filled opulently with a variety of old time hardy flowers, 
fragrant with memories of other days. Here and there a fruit tree 
stands laden with the promise of luscious fruits, and all around is the 
busy hum of insect life, with the flutter of birds and butterflies, and 
the throbbing of a hundred creations from the great storehouse of Na- 
ture, that make a garden more than a dreamland, but certainly a place 
of great refreshing rest, recuperation, peace, happy thoughts. It is 
the place to commune with friends, either in bodily presence or in 
books. It is a place in which to plan, to read, to rest, to work, to 
play. Back of all there is the utilitarian kitchen garden, the drying 
yard, the chicken run, the place for the household pets, the children's 
swing and sand heap, and the other happy features and adjuncts that 
make the house and garden our home. 

We beheve that one chief reason for the paucity of good and bright 
gardens is the lack of .knowing how to set about making them. Gar- 
dening is a very large subject. It has formed the study and recreation 
of the leisure moments of many eminent men from the time of Solomcm, 
Homer, Aristotle, Plato and others of the ancients, to Erasmus and 
Bacon of the Renaissance, Evelyn of the seventeenth century, to the 
more modern notabilities, as Pope, Walpole, Cowper, Goethe, Cobbett, 
our own Nathaniel Hawthorne and Thoreau, with many, many others. 
The amateur gardener is therefore in excellent company of the present 
as well as of all past times. Gardening is pleasurable, healthful, 
intellectual. 

We should not forget the purely economical side of the matter 
that has been dwelt upon in the publishers' foreword. But this 
Garden Guide is not intended exactly to be a mentor on making 
money or saving money. You are willing to pay for your household 
goods and embellishments, your automobile, your camera and sporting 
outfits, your concerts and theatres. Expect to pay, therefore, for your 
gardening; yet we can assure the amateur that well-considered expen- 
diture on the garden more than pays for itself. You can have delicious 
edible Asparagus on your table day in, day out for weeks in the early 
part of the year. You can have salads and young vegetables from 
April until November. Then there are the flowers and fruits over and 
above, and other assets of and from the garden that are too apparent 
to need to be mentioned. 

10 




INTRODUCTION 



11 



The plan of this book is sufficiently set forth in the table of con- 
tents, and we therefore offer this Guide confident in the belief that it 
will be found an excellent introduction to what is unequivocally one 
of the most delightful recreations that man can pursue. 



Presenting Our Fourth and Perfected Edition 

A quiet editor, upon being told that he ought to be the best judge 
of the merit of something he had written is said to have replied, in 
effect: ''Not so; did you never realize that it is only the silkworm 
itself that can never know what the coccoon that it has made looks 
like" For this reason we would be less confident of our judgment 
and optimism concerning the practical value of the Garden Guide 
were they not reinforced by the sentiments and actions of the public 
that has absorbed the three large editions which have preceded the 
present printing. As it is, the continued demand, the undiminished 
interest, the cordial commendation, tell us that the appreciation of 
gardening in America is constantly growing and that our efforts are 
truly filling the need for a compact, comprehensive, usable Garden 
Manual. 

These efforts, however, are not the result of a hasty decision, a 
sketchy survey of the ground, but of a quarter century of actual gar- 
dening experience, of contact with garden lovers, of observation of their 
activities, and of a study of their needs. We set out to provide those 
facts that we know they are in search of, in the form and language in 
which they can grasp and use them. We have written, compiled, 
eliminated and augmented, not for effect, but for service, out of a 
personal knowledge, sympathy and enthusiasm that binds all garden 
lovers together into one great family. 

In the present edition the changes, aside from minor improve- 
ments in 'arrangement, type styles, etc., designed to make the book 
more convenient and pleasing to the eye, have been mainly additions 
of new and valuable features. We call attention particularly to the 
chapter on Common Diseases of Garden Plants and Their Control, 
compiled by two representative plant pathologists of the country, 
men who stand with the highest. Among other new features covered 
may be mentioned the Canning of Fruits and Vegetables, Trans- 
planting, The Vegetable Garden in Winter, Lawn and Garden Weeds, 
Facts about Frost, Bungalow or Mid-Summer Gardening, Animal 
Life in the Garden, Fertilizer Facts, etc. Needless to say, all data 
and suggestions have been checked up, verified and, where necessary, 
revised in accordance with up-to-date conditions and the most suc- 
cessful modern principles, 



CHAPTER 1 

Planning the Home Grounds 

First Considerations in the Composition of a Garden — Drives — 
Lawns— Locating the Dwelling House — Treatment of the Shrubs, 
Belts, Borders, Beds — A Plea for Greater Seclusion — Home 
Planting Plans and Keys thereto 

IF one's place is but a small area of so many dozen square yards, 
it is great fun to do one's own planning, and little can go wrong. 
Should the place be more pretentious, running to one ot two 
acres, it might be money in one's pocket to consult a landscape gar- 
dener, or an experienced nurseryman or designer. There are several 
excellent books, too, that can be referred to, and from which valuable 
information can be got on the laying out of home grounds. One 
of these is "Gridland's Practical Landscape Gardening." 

The first considerations in the composition of a garden or the 
grounds about one's place are Privacy, Variety, Shelter, Balance. 

The planning and arrangement of the features of a garden or of 
the grounds about the house should be as carefully considered as the 
choice and placing of the furniture in one's home, or the choosing of a 
suit of clothes, or a dress to wear. The same idea holds, namely, the 
planning of a suitable, agreeable, comfortable composition. The 
garden has been called the outdoor drawing-ro6m. 

The arrangement of the drives and the grading of the lawns, the 
drainage when necessary, and the arrangement of the buildings and 
outhouses should all be preconceived and settled in an orderly, econom- 
ical manner. As far as possible there should be no mistake about the 
main, permanent features. The minor features may be changed quite 
a great deal in the coming years and almost surely will, as new ideas 
and points of view assert themselves, ^ This changing of the minor 
features is a part of the recreation of gardening. Thus one may 
considerably alter the contour of a shrubbery border, or may indeed 
eliminate it altogether. The same holds good of flower beds and 
borders, which are easily altered, removed or added to; but with large 
trees or the heavier groups of shrubs the expense of removal and 
shifting prohibits this being done except out of dire necessity. 

Where one has the choice of building one's house or choosing its 
location, the best aspect for it is where the front porch faces southeast, 
as shown in the diagrams pps. 1 G and 17; another good position is facing 
due south. In any case, as everybody likes abundant sunshine or 
ought to, see to it that the windows and living rooms face in the direc- 
tion of abundant light. Those places that are hidden beneath a dense 
canopy or half a forest of trees may suit, and do suit, some folks, but 

13 



14 



GARDEN GUIDE 




Actual layout of a backyard gar- 
den fenced, on lot 30x100 ft. Stand- 
ard Apple, Plum and Pear trees 
were planted around the divisional 
fences. They did not unduly 
shade the hardy flowers. The 
smooth gravel path terminated 
in an arbor over which Roses, Ivy 
and Clematis grew. Rhododen- 
drons, evergreens, hardy Heathr 
Viburnums, etc., with bulbs be- 
tween, were used on the right 
hand border. There was a sun 
parlor at the back of the house. 
The garden lay due south 



they are terribly depressing to the 
great majority of us, besides being, 
one should imagine, not conducive 
to health. Light, air, and freedom, 
are good watchwords for the builder 
and planner. 

Character can be" given to an 
entrance by simply having two 
ornamental pillars built there, w^-ith 
possibly an iron arch over them. 
If this is planted w^ith creeping vines 
and is supported at the sides with 
groups of evergreens, it adds wonder- 
ful dignity and seeming value to the 
property. 

\\ hile winding paths or drives 
are graceful, they should not be 
made meaninglessly, but are in order 
where the ground slopes a little or 
dips, or where irregularity exists. 
Certainly these can always be added 
or made in order to get the curved 
line. Even in small places, as our 
plans show, the swinging line of 
beauty can be had. Straight paths 
may, however, be more convenient, 
and can still be tasteful and harmo- 
nious. They are undoubtedly neat. 

No book can tell the reader ex- 
actly what may be the best arrange- 
ment for his garden or property. 
Every garden should have a character 
of its own, and generally does, unless 
in the case of the very smallest, 
where nearly all opportunity for 
variety is extinguished; yet it is re- 
markable what can be done on a 
quarter or an eighth of an acre. 
•We have often seen plots of 30 ft. x 
100 ft. laid out with much variety 
and taste, and which were full of 
interest. In those towns and cities, 
of our own country, and in the old 



PLANNING THE HOME GROUNDS 



15 



countries where the inhabitants, 
ahnost to a man, appreciate the ele- 
gancies of gardening, the little places 
exhibit the utmost variety of charac- 
ter in their composition. 

It is all too true that thousands 
of gardens arid grounds all around 
our American homes are bare to des- 
olation. The democratic idea and 
feeling against planting of hedges 
and the lining off of one's property 
makes for deadly uniformity. The 
arguments that unhedged or un- 
fenced grounds would be contrary to 
the best artistic conception and treat- 
ment of a city or suburb as a whole, 
ought not to be allowed to sway the 
property owner from making the 
most and the best of his own place. 
There is a school of landscape gar- 
deners and city planners who seem 
to set their face against this, en- 
couraging the open community type 
of home grounds. The latter will 
never get us anywhere as a nation of 
garden lovers, and almost entirely 
precludes the practice of the finer 
gardening. We plead rather to see 
places nicely hedged or railed off, so 
that stray dogs and unceremonious 
persons may be kept at a proper 
distance, but most of all for the sake 
of the enjoyment and encourage- 
ment of that quiet privacy without 
which the true pleasures of garden- 
ing cannot be attained. 

Which is the best — to have a 
big, bare lawn and a few trees, or an 
odd group of shrubs here and there, 
or the trimly hedged and fenced 
grounds, with flower borders, speci- 
men trees and shrubs, beds and 
belts of Roses, arches of Roses and 




o ® n 

O O 



Suburban lot fenced, on 40x100 ft. 
A low hedge divided off the vege- 
table garden. Fruit trees and 
bushes were lined by the side of 
this, while pillar Roses, dwarf 
Roses, neat shrubs and beds of 
flowers were elsewhere well dis- 
posed. The vegetable plot was a 
model of good cropping, contain- 
ing Tomatoes, Corn, Beans, Beets, 
Celery, Carrots, Spinach, herbs 
and salads. Raspberries lined the 
fences. This ran east and west 



GARDEN GUIDE 



i 





PLANNING THE HOME GROUNDS 



17 



other climbers, water basins, an arbor or Rose house where tea or ice- 
cream may be partaken in the sunny Summer days, or where in 




Fig. A — Planting plan to insure best FiG. B —Planting plan to insure best 

effect of shade, outlook, protection, and effect of shade, outlook, protection, 

privacy on a lot facing north <ind privacy on a lot facing south 




Fig. C —Planting plan to insure best Fig. P -Planting plan to insure best 

effect of shade, outlook, protection effect of shade, outlook, protection 

and privacy on a lot facing east and privacy on a lot facing west 

Reproduced from Cornell Bulletin 361 



18 



GARDEN GUIDE 



some shady corner we 
can enjoy a siesta or 
a book in the open 
air? 

Ihe fact is we do 
not make half enough 
u^e of the grounds 
about our homes; 
they are left blank in 
most instances. We 
warmly urge the 
planting of light 
screen belts of trees 
and hedges around 
the property, which 
need not be so dense as to prevent a neighbor or passerby from 
enjoying ghmpses of your garden. Kegel's Privet, California broad- 
leaved Privet, Golden Privet, Hemlock, Arbor Vit3e, Austrian Pine, 
White Pine, Norway Spruce, Rambler Roses, Ivy, Ampelopsis, Plane 
trees, Berberis Thunbergii, are among the easily grown subjects that 
are useful in such screen belts, and most of which can be increased on 
one's own place at Uttle expense if the suggestions given in another 
part of this book are carried out. 

The initial expense of planting the outer parts and main features 
of the grounds or garden need not be large. By the exercise of a little 
patience one can grow-on a good many things for future develop- 
ments. Poplars should only be used sparingly. They grow fast, it 
is true, and for that reason are often employed, and in some places 
are elegant and pleasant enough, but generally they are "messy," 
losing their leaves early, and their roots often choke up drains. The 
almost constant rustling of their leaves and other aspects of the trees 
are disagreeable to many people. 

- Make provision for a good space of lawn, and treat the lawn well. 
Water in motion, as in fountains, is often desirable but is a secondary 
consideration, just as the number and amount of flower beds or borders 
is, as also the introduction of rock gardens, arbors and such like. The 
thing of prime importance is to have the main features properly 
planned at the outset — the garage, the barn, the poultry run, the 
kitchen or vegetable garden, and the other parts of the place such as 
have been already spoken of, also the grading and terracing (if any), 
are among the first matters that require attention. Minor undulations 
or changes of the surface can l e left for a future day. It is not, wc 
repeat, necessary to have a cut and dried plan from the beginning; 




PLANNING THE HOME GROUNDS 19 



far better let it grow with your knowledge of the place. What may be 
called the adventitious, luxurious or additional features wiH, practi- 
cally speaking, take care of themselves. You will gradually come to 
find out the most appropriate spot for this or that. Do not be in a 
hurry; allow the place to grow up. It will suit your pocket better and 
furnish endless recreation and pleasure. It will keep your mind happy 
and active. You will be interested and learning all the while. This is 
true gardening, and the meaning and the reward of gardening and 
garden making. 

Some pains should be taken to have clean, well-made paths. 
Take out 6 in. or 8 in. of soil and fill with clinkers, rough ashes or stones, 
finishing off with smaller stones, bound or rolled in with a little soil. 
For a strong, permanent road, concrete may be employed. If a cement 
surface is objected to, gravel can be strewn over before the cement 
sets, and be rolled in. Grass paths are comfortable and beautiful. 
Brick is also good. It is well also to have a tile or slate or wooden edg- 
ing to the paths, as this makes for neatness and easy up-keep. 

You will find that by walking around your district or other dis- 
tricts, your walks are as a book; at every turn you will gain some 
experiences or suggestions that may be modified or adopted wi^h 
profit on your own grounds. 

Lastly, there is no place so unpromising that it cannot, by dint 
of knowledge, skill, elFort and some small financial expenditure, be 
made a beautiful or trimly garden. 




Is this not a superb setting for a home ? 



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1 



PLANTING PLAN 



21 



PLANTING PLAN "A" FOR TWO HOUSES ADJOINING 
On this plan, representing a 
width of 80 ft. by a depth of 
200 ft. stand two semi-detached 
houses. 

The entire boundary is arranged 
in plantations of shrubbery and are 
of such varieties as will give a se- 
quence of bloom from early Spring 
until late Fall, followed by a little 
interest of color in the berry bear- 
ing plants, such as the Barberry, 
Coral Berry, Snowberry and 
Cotoneaster. 

The perennials are placed along 
the base of the house, and the 
varieties suggested, while limited, 
will provide a goodly quantity of 
cut flowers for table decoration. 

The front lawns may be treated 
as one lawn to advantage by omit- 
ting numbers 21 and 29, while the 
rear, for reasons of privacy, is 
better enclosed by the shrub 
borders. 

A small vegetable garden is 
placed at the rear, separated by a 
hedge, which will also form a back- 
ground to the plantations in front 
of it. 

Between the rear lawn and the 
vegetable garden a small arbor is 
suggested in which seats may be 
placed at the sides. 

Either climbing Roses, Clematis 
or annual vines should be planted 
as the decoration for the arbor. 

For laundry purposes a movable 
drier is indicated in the center of 
the grass plot. This is easily put up 
and taken down as occasion may 
require, and is infinitely better 
than the unsightly posts. 



Planting Plan herewith and Planting 
Key thereto on opposite page, are re- 
produced from Cridland's PRACTI- 
CAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING, 
the most complete textbook on the 
subject ever published at the price. 
We will forward this book on appli-^ 
(aUon for $2J5, postpaid. 




22 GARDEN GUIDE 



KEY TO PLAN " B " OPPOSITE 

Key 

No. Quart. Variety Common Name 

47 Hybrid Tea Roses 

J Crataegus, Double white Crataegus, alba 1 tjo,,,^ 

4 1 plena Double red, Paul's Scarlet f iiawtnorn 

3 4 Salisburia adiantifolia Maidenhair Tree 

4 3 Abelia granditlora Hybrid Abelia 

5 I Buddleia Veitchiana Butterfly shrub 

6 7 Bocconia cordata Plume Poppy 

7 10 Delphinium hybridum Larkspur 

8 10 Phlox Mrs. Jenkins * White Phlox 

9 10 Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Pink Phlox 

10 7 Paeonia Festiva Maxima White Peony 

11 I Spiraea Van Houttei Van Houtte's Spirae i 

12 I Abelia granditiora Hybrid Abelia 

13 T Mahonia aquifolia Oregon Grape 

14 ] Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel 

15 I Cotoneaster Simonsi Shiny leaved Cotoneastcr 

16 I Mahonia japonica Japanese Evergreen Barberry 

17 2 Juniperus hibcrnica Irish Juniper 

18 5 Ketinispora obtusa Japanese Cypress 

19 I Thuyopsis dolobrata 

20 i6 Retinispora squarrosa Veitchii Japanese Blue Cypress 

21 2 Acer '?ac.harirai ^ Sugar Maple 

22 I Cotoneaster Simonsi i Shiny leaved Cotoneas'«- 

23 I Mahonia japonica Japanese Evergreen Ba-berry 

24 f Aucuba japonica Japanese Laurel 

25 r Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia 

26 I Mahonia aquifolia Oregon Grape 

27 I Berberis Thunbergii Japanese Barberry 

28 I Deutzia gracilis . Dwarf Deutzia 

29 I Spiraea Anthony Waterer Pink SiMraca 

30 I Spiraea callosa alba Dwarf white Spiraea 

31 I Amygdalus fi. pi. rubra Flowering Almond 

32 I Coryopteris Mastacanthus Verbena Shrub 

33 6 Buddleia magnifica Butterfly Shrub 

34 5 Hydrangea arborescen? grandiflora Large flowered Hydrangea 

35 3 Thalictrum dipterocarpum Meadow Rue 

36 4 Aconitum Park's hybrids Monkshooa 

37 5 Anemone Queen Charlotte Windfiower 

38 IS Iris Kaempferi Japanese Flag 

39 8 Stokesia cyanea Stokes' Aster 

40 15 Iris Queen of May Flag 

41 6 Paeonia Jean d'Arc Rose Colored Peony 

42 II Platycodon Mariesii Chinese Bell Flower 

43 5 Phlox Struthers Cherry Red Phlox 

44 6 Pentstemon barbatus Beard Tongue 

45 6 Iris King of Iris Yellow Flag 

46 IS Phlox Mrs. Jenkins White Phlox 

47 8 Funkia lancifolia Plantain Lily 

48 10 Chrysanthemum Henry Sesquier Violet Rose Shades 

49 6 Paeonia Charlemagne's White Peony 

50 10 Campanula calycanthema Bell Flower 

51 10 Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes White Chrysanthemum 

52 6 Paeonia lutea variegata Pink Peony 

53 15 Iris Kaempferi Japanese Flag 

54 12 Platycodon Mariesii Chinese Bellflower 

55 8 Stokesia cyanea Stokes* Aster 

56 5 Aquilegia caerulea Columbine 
56H 4 Aconitum, Park's variety Monkshood 

57 5 Anemone Queen Charlotte Windfiower 

58 6 Paeonia Festiva Maxima V/hite Peony 

59 10 Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes White Chrysanthemum 

60 IS Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Pink Phlox 

61 10 Campanula latifolia macrantha Bellflower 

62 7 Paeonia Cytharee Flesh White Peony 

63 0 Iris pallida dalmatica Blue Flag 

64 6 Pentstemon barbatus Beard Tongue 
6s S Phlox Miss Lingard White Phlox 



PLANTING PLAN 



23 



PLANTING PLAN "B" FOR A PLOT 50 x 100 FT. 



This garden is planted 
with an assortment of hardy 
perennials, and the whole is 
enclosed with hybrid Tea 
Roses. The diagram repre- 
sents a plot 50 ft. wide by 
118 ft. deep to the curb. 

On the transverse axis of the 
garden a Summer house is 
located. This little open area 
is necessary to provide a suit- 
able drying area for laundry 
purposes. The drier, however, 
is of a movable type and when 
not in use should be removed . 

The Summer House is sur- 
rounded by the Ginkgo, one of 
the most picturesque of trees. 
Small arches spanning the two 
entrances to the garden would 
be a desirable feature, and 
climbing Roses should be 
planted on either side of the 
arch, using Silver Moon, Dr. 
Van Fleet, Tausendschoen and 
Farquhar. 

The side line, west side, is 
planted in hardy perennials, 
with a flowering shrub at each 
end as a terminal feature. 

On the eastern boundary 
line dwarf flowering shrubs 
are planted at equal intervals. 

The planting at the base of 
the house consists of broad- 
leaved evergreens. 

The hedge along the front 
is the silvery grey Japanese 
Cypress, with the green va- 
riety at the ends and en- 
trances for contrast and to 
emphasize those points. 



Planting Plan herewith and 
Planting Key thereto on opposite 
page, are reproduced from Grid- 
land's PRACTICAL LAND- 
SCA PE GA RDENING, the most 
complete textbook on the subject 
ever published at the price, We 
will forward this book on appli- 
cation for $2.15 postpaid. 




GARDEN GUIDE 



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S5 



PLANTING PLAN 

For a property 50x100 feet. 

In this scheme the treat- 
ment is of formal character 
the only informal part being 
in front of the porch, and the 
small plantation at the south- 
west corner. The diagram rep- 
resents a property 50 ft. wide 
by 118 ft. deep to the curb. 

The stepping stone walk on 
the west side is placed between 
two borders of perennials and 
leads to the enclosure at the 
rear. 

Shrubbery has been placed 
at intervals in the beds to lift 
them up and break the mo- 
notony. This feature is con- 
tinued along the eastern fence 
line, while at the base of the 
house the planting is confined 
to the hardy perennials with 
the exception of two ever- 
greens placed at the ends of 
the beds. 

The plantation in front of 
the porch consists of an assort- 
ment of conifers, in back of 
which a variety of vines are 
placed for color effect. Bulbs 
for Spring, followed by low 
growing annuals, would give 
an additional interest to this 
plantation. 

The hedge along the front 
is the Hemlock Spruce, and it 
should be kept at a height of 
three to four feet. 



ODOOqoOOOOOOOOpOOOOOOOOQ 




26 



GARDEN GUIDE 



KEY TO PLAN "D" OPPOSITE 



i\.cy 
No. 




Variety 


Common Namd 


I 




A OpiHUS IdStlgldlcl 


Lombardy Poplars 


2 




A OpUlUS IdSLlgctUa. 


Lombardy Poplars 


3 




^inotT'llG T^QlnQt"T*1Q 
^UCH-Uo ^JdlUSLllo 


Pin Oak 


4 




11 raxinus dincricdiici 


Amprirfln Ash 


5 




Acer S3.cchariini 


SncraT A/Tnr»lf» 


o 


3 


vJingKO DilOUd 


^laidenhair Tree 


7 


2 


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Cnt-l paved Tananese Alaole 


Q 
O 


3 


j.iiu.yd iJiicdLuiii 


Fern-leaved Arborvitse 


O 
O 


2 


J UIlipcX Uis ClCgdll LloolUlfl jLyCCl 


f~rr>lr1pn Tnnir»pr 

VJWlVlV^ll 1 Lllll^\«l 


9 


I 


X^i(4tiiudiiiudi buy 1 dV-iiiud 


OWCCL VTLXXXl 


10 


s 


Viburnum tomentosum ' 


^incrlo ToT-^onpcp ^nr>\.vV>al1 

OXXXgXC J d^JdXXCoC Oll^vvud.ii 


1 1 




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12 


5 


oyringa, namcQ v dricLics 


Lilacs 


13 


5 


Xiy U.X dllgCd pdiiiCUIdLd 


A^di.^ XX Vll dXl^V^Cb 


14 


0 


X lilldUCipilUo CUl VjiidI 1U.3 


M^Ov^k Oranpf* 


IS 


7 


Rosa rugosa 


Jd^JdXXCoC iVVJOC 


lO 


A 
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Spiraea Van Houttei 


Drooping Spiraea 


29 


6 


Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 


Large flowering Hydrangea 


30 


8 


Spiraea Thunbergii 


Snow Garland 


31 


9 


Abelia grandiflora 


Hybrid Abelia 


32 


7 


Azalea Hinodegiri 


Japanese Azalea 


■^1 
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Azalea Hinodegiri 


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Spiraea arguta 


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6 


Kerria japonica, single 


Yellow Kerria 




12 


Iris Silver King 


White Flag 


0 / 


7 


Hypericum Moserianum 


St. John's Wort 


38 


6 


Rosa multiflora 


Dwarf Japanese Rose 


10 

oy 


10 


Phlox divaricata 


Early Blue Phlox 


AO 


10 


Aquilegia flabellata nana alba 


White Columbine 


41 


10 


Stokesia cyanea 


Stokes' Aster 




8 


Iris pallida dalmatica 


Lavender Flag 


HO 


■J 


Paeony Festiva maxima 


W^hite Peony 




10 


Aster amellus Beauty of Ronsdorf 


Michaelmas Daisy 


4^ 


12 


Chrysanthemum Julia Lagrav^re 


Red Chrysanthemum 


46 


-a 


Paeony Richardson's grandiflora 


Peony 


47 


16 


Delphinium formosum 


Indian T^arksmir 

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48 


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Dicentra spectabilis 


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18 


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Phlox Miss Lingard 


Early Phlox 


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Kerria japonicai single 


Single Kerria 


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00 


10 


Hesperis matronalis 


Sweet Rocket 


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12 


Chrysanthemum Golden Mnie. Iclartha 


Yellow ChrysanthemuiT" 




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Phlox Rheinstrom 


Pink Phlox 


58 


8 


Phlox Ardense Crete 


Early White Phlox 


59 


5 


Syringa, named varieties 


Lilac 


60 


2 


Juniperus virginiana 


Red Cedar 


61 


9 


Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 


Pink Phlox 


62 


8 


Lonicera Morrow i 


Bush Honeysuckle 


63 


5 


Hibiscus syriacus, single 


Pink Rose of Sharon 


64 


5 


Philadelphus Mont Blanc 


Mock Orange 



PLANTING PLAN 
"D" 

Shows a good treatment of a 
property 50x150 ft., using 
broken flagstones with mor- 
tar joints for the main walk 
and stepping stone walk to 
the service quarters and the 
rear lawn. The service yard 
enclosed by hedge 

(See Planting Key on page 26) 



For a complete work on the sub- 
ject of this chapter 
we recommend 
PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE 
GARDENING, by Robt. B. 
Cridland. Everybody loves a 
garden. Not every one, however, 
can employ a landscape architect 
to lay out his grounds. It is to fill 
this need that Robt. Cridland has 
written this helpful book which 
goes carefully into all the details 
of^lanning a garden with refer- 
ence to the location of the house, 
the character of the land to be 
utilized, the kind of trees and 
plants best suited to the particular 
location, and hundreds of other 
necessary operations. The author 
is clear and concise in his direc- 
tions and explanations and is, 
above all, practical. Book consists 
of 266 pages, contains 91 pho- 
tographs, 67 sketches and 33 
planting plans (with keys to 
plans). Price S2.15, postpaid. 
Secure this book where you bought 
your Garden Guide, 




GARDEN GUIDE 



KEY TO PLAN "E" OPPOSITE 



Key 

No. Quan. 



7 
8 

10 

II 

12 
13 
14 
IS 
i6 



19 

20 
21 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 

29 

30 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
39 
40 
41 

42 J 

43 

44^ 

442 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 

6o 

6i 

62 

65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 



9 
i6 

125 

350 
3 



I 

5 
10 

3 
10 

6 
5 
I 
14 



6 
8 

10 

8 

12 

6 
8 
5 
3 
8 
5 
3 
I 
I 

2 

4 
I 
15 
5 
9 
7 
8 
6 

4 
I 
5 
9 
3 
I 
5 
9 

lO 
9 
6 

• 6 
6 
3 
7 

10 

8 
5 
I 
9 
12 

6 

12 

8 



Variety 

Juniperus virginiana 
Roses, Hybrid Tea (Standards) 
Hybrid Tea Roses 
Ligustrum ovalifolium 
Spiraea Van Houttei 
r ' -Kir \ Key Nos.— 6 9 22 

Lonicera Morrowi v., p,,„,,.. ^ 



17 



i No. Plants-5 
Magnolia acuminata 
Viburnunj Opulus sterilis 
Buddleia Veitchiana 
Biota orientalis conspicua 
Desmodium japonicum 
Hydrangea quercifolia 
Forsythia suspensa 
Red Siberian Crab 
Dianthus barbatus 

Berberis Thunbergii { 

Deutzia Lemoinei 
Phlox W. C. Egan 
Iris Silver King 
Rose Pink Baby Rambler 
Rose White Baby Rambler 
Rose Hermosa 
Rose Pink Baby Rambler 
Rosa rugosa 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Phlox Miss Lingard 
Juniperus Sabina 
Taxus cuspidata 
Larix europaea 
Cornus florida rubra 
Buxus arborescens (Globe) 
Taxus cuspidata 
Magnolia conspicua 
Hypericum Moserianura 
Forsythia suspensa 
Abelia grandifiora 
Hydrangea radiata 
Xanthorriza apiifolia 
Spiraea Thunbergii 
Syringa vulgaris 
Apple, Grimes' Golden 
Philadelphus coronarius 
Spiraea Margaritae 
Juniperus virginiana glauca 
Liquidambar styraciflua 
Hydrangea paniculata 
CEnothera missouriensis 
Iris Blue Boy 

Chrysanthemum St. lUoria 

Paeonia Van Houttei 

Funkia caerulea 

Phlox Diadem 

Paeonia festiva maxima 

Delphinium chinense 

Iris pumila aurea 

Spiraea Thunbergii 

Pyrus Maulei 

Juniperus Cannarti 

Phlox Eugene Danzanvilliers 

Iris aurea 

Paeonia grandiflora 

Iris pallida dalmatica 

Chrysanthemum Julia Lagrav^re 

Annuals and Perennials 

Populus fo.stigiata 



5 5 3 



31 



Comrribh Name 
Red Cedar 

Everblooming Roses 
California Privet 
Drooping Spiraea 

I Bush Honeysuckle 

Cucumber Tree 

Snowball 

Butterfly Plant 

Columnar Chinese Arbon- 

Purple Bush Clover 

Oak-leaved Hydrangea 

Drooping Golden Bell 

Crab Apple 

Sweet William 

64) 

J Japanese Barberry 

Lemoine's Deutzia 
Hardy Phlox 
White Flag 
Everblooming Rose 
Everblooming Rose 
Everblooming Rose ' 
Everblooming Rose 
Japanese Rose 
Early Honeysuckle 
Early Phlox 
Savin Juniper 
Japanese Yew 
European Larch 
Pink Dogwood 
Globe-shaped Box 
Japanese Yew 
White Magnolia 
St. John's Wort 
Drooping .Golden Beli 
Hybrid Abelia 
Silver-leaved Hydrangea 
Yellow Root 
Snow Garland 
Lilac 

Mock Orange 
Pink Spiraea 
Blue Cedar 
Sweet Gum 
Late Hydrangea 
Evening Primrose 
German Flag 
Pink Chrysanthemum 
Crimson Peony 
Plantain Lily 
Hardy Phlox 
White Peony 
Chinese Larkspur 
Dwarf Flag 
Show Garland 
Pink Japanese Quince 
Pyramidal Cedar 
Lilac Phlox 
Yellow Flag 
Pink Peony 
Lavender Flag 
Red Chrysanthemum 

Lombardy Poplar 



GARDEN GUIDE 

f 



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PLANTING PLAN 



31 




Lot 190x190 ft. Residence lot designed to provide a flower garden, garage, enclosed 
service yard and croquet lavrn. The interesting features are a terrace walk, 
ateppinft stone walk In Uwn, and unique entrance arrangement 



32 GARDEN GUIDE 

Key KEY TO PLAN "G" OPPOSITE 

No, Quart. Variety Common Name 

I, 2 and 3 Syringas in variety Lilac 

4 6 Spiraea Van Houttei Van Houttei Spirnea 

5 s Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Large Flower Hybrid 
, 6 and 31 Kerria japonica, single Corchorus 

7 6 Forsythia viridissima Golden Bell 

8 7 Amygdalus nana Flowering Almond 

9 II Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush 

10 IS " Pyrus japonica Japanese Quince 

11 7 Lonicera grandiflora Bush Honeysuckle 

12 and 31 Spiraea Froebelli 

13 12 Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry 

14 9 Berberis vulgaris Barberry 

15 6 Lonicera Marrowi Bush Honeysuckle ' 

16 14 Deutzia gracilis Dwarf Deutzia 

17 II Viburnum Carlesii 

18 s Retinispora plumosus Japanese Cypress 

19 7 Viburnum dentatum Arrowwood 

20, 33 and 34 Berberis Thunbergii Japanese Barberry 

21 II Spiraea sorbifolia Ash-leaved Spiraea 

22 II Weigela rosea Pink Weigela 

23 7 Deutzia Pride of Rochester Pink Deutzia 

24 5 Syringa Pekinensis Chinese Lilac 

25 s Cercis japonica Japanese Red Bud 

26 5 Caragana arborescens * Siberian Pea 

27 S Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar 

28 9 Viburnum tomentosum Single Japanese Snowball 
2%y^ 5 Rosa rubiginosa Sweet Brier 

29 20 Spiraea Thunbergii Thunberg's Spiraea 

30 7 Hypericum moserianum St* John's Wort 
32 and 35 Ligustrum Regelianum Regel's Privet 

37 and 54 Azalea Hino-de-giri Evergreen Azalea 

38 7 Berberis purpurea Purple-leaved Barberry 

39 3 Philadelphia Avalanche Mock Orange 

40 3 Viburnum Carlesii 

41 3 Syringa M me. Casimir Perrier White Lilac 

42 6 Spiraea Anthony Waterer Pink Spirsea < ^ 

43 3 Syringa Pres. Grevy - Blue Lilac 

44 s Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Large Flowering Hybrid 

45 5 Desmodium penduliflorum Bush Clover 

46 6 Weigela Eva Rathke Red Weigela 

47 6 Viburnum Opulus sterilis Snowball 

48 and 49, II Hibiscus 

51 8 Dwarf Fruit Trees (4 Apples and 4 Pears) 

50 3 Forsythia Fortunei Golden Bell 

52 I Populus fastigiata Lombafdy Poplar 

53 I Pyrus Ivonsis (Bechtel's) Flowering Crab 

55 5 Cotoneaster Simonsii 

56 and S7» n Hex Holly 

58 3 ' Rhododendron roseum elegans Rose Bay 

59 5 Mahonia japonica Evergreen Barberry 

60 and 62 Azalea amoena Evergreen Azalea 

61 5 Ilex crenata latifolia Japanese Holly 

63 5 Ilex crenata Japanese Holly 

64 5 Mahonia aquifolia Evergreen Barberry 

65 7 Rhododendron purpureum elegans Rose Bay 

66 5 Ilex glabra Ink Berry 

67 10 Rhododendron roseum elegans Rose Bay 

68 to 70 Juniperus virginiana and other Junipers 

71 to 72 Quercus, Red Oak, Pink Oak and Mossy Cup Oak 

74 and 75 Cerasus Flowering Cherry 

76 16 Juniperus Cannarti Pyramidal Jumper 

77 7 Lycium barbarum Washington Bower 

78 14 Berberis Thunbergii Japanese Barberry 

79 7 Symphoricarpos racemosus Snowberry 

80 5 Caliicarpa purpurea Beauty Shrub 

81 6 Ligustrum Regelianum Regel's Privet 

82 14 Deutzia gracilis Dwarf Deutzia 

83 600 Assorted Hardy Perennials and Bulbs 



PLANTING PLAN "G" 

Key 

No. Quart. Variety 
84 4 Standard Crataegus roses fl. pi. 

Tea and Hybrid tea Rosea, 20 inches apart 
Picea Kosteriana 
Retinispora filifera aurea 
Jiiniperus Pfitzeriana 
Taxus cuspidata 
Buxus pyramidalis 
Acer saccharum 
Abies Veitchii 



33 



Common Name 
Hawthorn , 



8s 200 

86 I 

87 and 88 

89 I 

90 I 

91 2 

92 7 

93 I 



Colorado BlueSpmce 
Japanese Golden Cypress 
Spreading Juniper 
Japanese Yew 
Pyramidal Box 
Sugar Maple 



^ ^ 








1 ; 






Planting Plan **G'* for a property of two acres. 



CHAPTER II 



Lawns and Grass Plots 

Seed Mixtures — Sowing — ^Yearly Care — Mowing — Rolling 
Weeding — Turfing 

THE lawn furnishes the setting for a house, and if it is trim, smooth 
and of a healthy green, will add the finishing touch to an attrac- 
tive home which no amount of planting can give. Wide spread- 
ing slopes or level terraces of turf are the delight of many of both the 




A well kept lawn, furnishing a splendid set- 
ting for the house, with its trees and borders 
to right and left 



simplest and the stateliest residences. Neat lawns are ever the sign 
of thrifty people. 

The main difficulty, generally, is that too frequently the surface 
is cut by meaningless and inappropriate beds. Such beds, in large 
lawns, sometimes detract from the feeling of repose, and in small 
lawns the beds may often be left out with advantage. Trees and 
shrubs whigh are arranged haphazard and thickly about a lawn are 

34 



LAWNS AND GRASS PLOTS 



35 



also objectionable. Many a home yard is utterly spoiled by this 
spotty appearance. The suggestion is to let the lawn stand for a 
feature by itself, and to arrange the trees, shrubs and flowers at the 
margins. In many cases no better effect can be gained than by 
allowing the cool green lawn to run directly up to the brick or brown 
stone houses. 

In establishing a lawn it should always be remembered that 
the first preparation is the important one; because it will remain for 
years before being dug up again. If the soil is a heavy clay, it must 
be drained, for the grasses most used in lawns do not tolerate **wet 
feet." If grading has been done, soil which was at the surface must be 
provided for a surface layer, because subsoil does not contain the proper 
organisms for good growth. If top-soil is not obtainable, it is better 
to seed for a year with Peas and Oats which should be spaded or plowed 
under when in juicy growth. Any soil will benefit by an apphcation of 
well decayed manure. Fresh manure contains weed seeds and will 
always prove troublesome. Besides manure, there is nothing better 
than ground bonemeal. This will continue to supply the beneficial 
food substances for a great length of time. Before the seed is sown, 
the soil must be raked very smoothly and the stones removed. It 
should be firm and perfectly level, for every hollow will show later. 
A little rolling will compact the soil just enough for seeding. 

Seed Mixtures 

No one variety of lawn grass is the best. In order to get 
results we must not depend on one grass alone, but must so mix 
our varieties that a thick turf is formed not only quickly, but per- 
manently. Some grasses live but a year, and require an annual re- 
sowing. Cheap mixtures contain some of these. It is interesting to 
know that the roots of some grasses go deeper than others; for this 
reason good mixtures utilize the whole top-soil most advantageously. 
Reputable seedsmen can be depended upon to supply proper mixtures 
for various purposes. Go to them, tell them your soil conditions, and 
they will give you the proper mixture. 

Kentucky Blue Grass is no doubt the most used. It does not 
make a good sod the first year, but improves in subsequent years. It 
succeeds admirably on the limestone soils. In Midsummer, it is apt 
to become somewhat brown. Canada Blue Grass is useful for dry and 
clayey soils and seems able to resist drought. Many of the Fescues 
are extremely valuable. The Fine-leaved Sheep's Fescue has the nar- 
rowest blades. The Hard Fescue is useful in forming a dense mat and 
stands drought. Besides these, the Creeping, the Sheep's and the 
Meadow Fescues all form sods, and are useful for mixtures. 



36 



GARDEN GUIDE 




For immediate results, but not 
lasting, a little Italian Rye Grass can 
be used. The Rye Grass is an annual 
and will give a good appearance the first 
year. Oats sown upon a new lawn not 
only help the appearance but shade 
the tender perennial grasses and allow 
them to get a good start. Red Top 
seems to succeed even on sUghtly acid 
soils, and forms a dense mat. The 
Sweet Vernal Grass is odorous and gives 
a softness to the lawn. Wood Meadow 
and Rough Stalked Meadow Grass both succeed well in the shade. 
White Clover is also useful in mixtures; it forms a dense ground cover 
and thrives in most soils and climates. A quart, which is a little over 
half a pound, should be used for every three hundred square feet of 
surface. The Clover is to be' sown separately, as the seed is heavier. 



A lattice screen, supported at 
the base by a waU. Between 
the chinks of the stones and 
in a channel along the top, 
suitable plants are grown 



When and How to Sow 

Grass may be sown as soon as the snow has gone and the ground 
warmed slightly. It is an advantage to get it well started before the 
trees begin to shade the soil, perhaps as early as April. If sown later, 
especially in Midsummer, the hot sun will make it difficult for the 
grass to start. The soil will need careful and thorough watering. 
Grass seed may also be sown in the Autumn, from mid-August to 
October, with good 
results. If a day just 
before a rain can be 
chosen it will be 
found that the grass 
will be up in a few 
days. If no rain is in 
sight, give a thorough 
sprinkling of water, 
but not with force, 
else the seed will be 
washed out. If it is 
windy, the seed will 

scatter badly, and „ , . ^ . . ^ 

Some flower gardens are so situated that it becomes 
Will not come up necessary to run a lattice-work fence around them. 

1 A dainty, ornamental fence like the above) if 

evenly. painted white, is very suitable 




LAWNS AND GRASS PLOTS 



When lat-ge areas are 
to be sown it is best 
to divide the lawn 
into approximately 
ten-foot squares and 
treat each separate- 
ly, else it will be 
difficult to sow uni- 
formly. To cover the 
seeds, the areas 
should then be raked 
in two directions, 
after which the lawn 
should be thoroughly 
rolled. This will com- 
pact the soil so that 
the seeds are in con- 
tact with the soil 
particles. 

When the young grass has b^en up for perhaps two weeks it is 
often best to roll it and defer the first cutting until the plants are about 
three inches tall. The new lawn should not be cropped too closely, 
but should be cut regularly. The grass will then be induced to spread 
out rather than grow tall. If cut weekly, the clippings should not be 
removed; they will be useful to protect the roots against the sun as 
well as to furnish an excellent mulch. If, however, the grass has 
grown long, the clippings should be raked and will be a good mulch 
for use about perennials in the borders. 

Care of the Lawn 

The yearly care of the lawn consists first of a slight mulch of 
thoroughly rotted manure in the Winter. This not only protects the 
grass from the cold, but supplies plant food as well. In the Spring, 
when growth first starts, the coarser material should be removed and 
the lawn given a dressing of bonemeal. An application of nitrate of 
soda, which is best applied in solution (one oz. to two gallons of water), 
will give the lawn a good start. To renovate the lawn, seed can usually 
be sown about one-half as thickly as for new lawns. 

Frequently bad spots are found. These are often due to the fact 
that in grading some large stone has been left in the soil which cuts 
off the supply of water from below . At other times the soil becoming a 




An effective disposition of a lawn. 

There is a tendency here to overdo through too heavy a 
planting. This arrangement entails much labor to keep 
in condition 



Mowing 



38 



GARDEN GUIDE 



little sour, causes the bare spot. Dig up such an area deeply and 
remove the stones. Place in fresh soil, a little lime and decayed manure. 
It is advisable to give an extra heavy seeding also. 

Rolling the Lawn 

Not only on the newly seeded areas is the roller useful, but all the 
lawns should be thoroughly rolled in the Spring. The Winter frosts 
cause more or less heaving of the soil, exposing the roots to drying as 
well as leaving an irregular surface. The best rollers for the purpose 
are the water ballast rollers; they are made of hollow iron and can be 
readily filled with water, thus increasing or diminishing the weight for 
the various soils and their changing conditions. 

Exterminating the Weeds 

Many of the objectionable weeds on new lawns are annuals, and 
they may be entirely eradicated in one year if they are prevented from 
seeding. Many other weeds, such as Docks, Dandelions and Canadian 
Thistles, are perennials, and are provided with underground fleshy 
roots which must be dug deeply and pulled up. Cutting them just 
below the surface aggravates the situation, because three or four 
shoots start in place of one. 

Overcoming Lawn Troubles 

Turfing 

It often becomes necessary to establish a lawn under very adverse 
conditions, in which case it is best to use sod or turf which can be re- 
moved from a pasture or vacant lot. With a spade the turf can easily 
be cut into twelve-inch squares and moved. Especially is this advan- 
tageous for bordering newly estabhshed paths and roads, or where nar- 
row strips are wanted between beds of flowers. The soil should be as 
carefully prepared and put in as good physical condition as for new 
lawns. In edging walks, the cut sod should be a httle lower than the 
adjacent sown area, which in time will settle. The sod should be 
thoroughly firmed and watered so that the grass roots are immediately 
encouraged to start growth into the soil below. 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
chapter, we recommend 

LAWNS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM, by Leonard Barron. Will aid 
any one to establish a greensward in any sort of soil where grass can be made 
to grow. Flexible cloth, 174 pages. Profusely illustrated. Price $1.35 
postpaid. Secure this book where you bought your Garden Guide. 



CHAPTER III 



Hedges and Fences 

Hedges of Privet, Berberis, Siberian Dogwood, Box, Yew, Ilex, 
Buckthorn, Crataegus Oxyacantha, Hemlock, Arbor Vitae and 
Norway Spruce — Location — Soil — Fences with Climbers 

MUCH has been said of late regarding the wholesale manner 
in which fashion has dictated that every sort of fence 
and boundary should be removed. The word * 'garden" 
carries with it the meaning of enclosure. We in America are getting 
more and more away from having even our own dooryards to our- 




When this property of one acre was purchased there was not a tree or a plant on the 
place. The frontage on the main road is 120ft., on a side road some 400ft. The ground 
rises splendidW from the main road; the house was placed 200ft. from that road. 
Judicious planting has made these home grounds "a thing of beauty and a joy forever." 
From the very first plantings of very small stock the attractiveness of the place has 

improved from year to year 

selves. Often we cannot tell where our province leaves off and the 
next begins. Marauders have full sweep. There is something home- 
like about an enclosure with some degree of privacy. Because the 
city is abolishing every means for such privacy we wish at times to 
be by ourselves, and the country is chosen. Hedges or boundaries need 

39 



40 



GARDEN GUIDE 




Ungaimy and displeasing. The grass is unkempt; 
the shrubs in front are wild growths that have 
sprung up of their own accord, yet the situation 
is ideal for gardening 



not be emphasized, 
but let us not fear 
to put up some little 
shrubbery to shield us 
from the public gaze, 
and let us enclose 
parts of our own do- 
main by a low hedge. 
Formidable fences are 
not advocated, but 
pirvate areas bound- 
ed by hedges are al- 
ways interesting. 

Low hedges of 
the graceful Ligus- 
trum RegeUanum — — » 
(Regel's Privet) are very handsome; or Berberis Thunbergii, with its 
red berries and Fall coloring; or the Siberian Dogwood (Cornus alba 
sibirica). For an evergreen hedge, nothing has been used more than 
Box. This is not hardy in all parts of the North, and is a very slow 
grower. For starting the hedge old plants may be broken apart and 
set out. The Dwarf Japanese Yew (Taxus cuspidata var. brevifoha) 
is very hardy but has hardly become known as yet in American gardens. 
Ilex crenata microphylla can also be used. 

Taller hedges are best made of the Ibota (Ligustrum Ibota), 
common Privet (Ligustrum vulgare), or the California Privet (Ligus- 
trum ovalifoUum). The Cahfornia Privet is seen at its best in the 
Eastern coastal states, from Maine south, and succeeds admirably 
from the very edge of the beach up to ten miles inland, where it is one of 

the best materials to 
use, but in many in- 
land northern locali- 
ties it freezes to the 
ground every few 
years so that the 
character of the hedge 
is destroyed. The 
Golden Privet is very 
bright and cheery, 
but hard to buy. The 
Buckthorn (Rhamnus 

Rough, neglected surroundings — no planting at- cathartica) is a USeful 
tempted, no^awn. no shrubs, no^ flowers. How ^^^y^ 




HEDGES AND FENCES 



41 



trable hedge. Crataegus crus-galli and oxyacantha are also useful. 
They will require close pruning when small to induce branches at 
the base of the plants. Crataegus crus-galli, on account of its dangerous 
needle-Hke thorns, should not be set out where there is a sidewalk. 
Hedges of Hemlock, Arbor Vitae and Norway Spruce are substantial 
when the taller ones are wanted. The Hemlock is the finest, since 
each plant merges, into the next admirably. 

A common blunder with hedges is to locate them too near walks so 
that they are injured by the constant brushing against them by the 
passersby. 

The soil should be prepared deeply and well as for ordinary shrub 
planting. The practice is not advised of placing two rows of shrubs for 
a hedge. The hedge can be kept cleaner of weeds and its growth is more 
symmetrical by planting only one row. It is advisable in setting a 
hedge to set the plants so that they touch at planting time. This means 
that the smaller plants, as Barberry, will be planted six to eight inches. 




Privet put to good use and charming city street girrangement 



42 



GARDEN GUIDE 



and Privets ten to twelve inches apart. The soil must be thoroughly 
firmed around the plants at setting. 

For pruning hedges, see chapter on Pruning. 

Board or picket fences are employed between the smaller subiu^- 
ban yards. These can be covered with Rambler Roses, Honeysuckle 
in variety, or other climbers. By proper pruning and thinning these 
will not get too heavy or cumbersome, and can readily be held back 
if the fence requires to be painted. Iron fences and galvanized or 
alumina plated fences are also used, the latter being strong and dur- 
able. Or again, a soil bank can be thrown up and be planted with 
trees and shrubs. The consideration of brick and stone walls hardly 
comes within the scope of this book. 




Hemlock Hedge. Tsuga canadensis. Imposing, yet the greenery is 

soft and pleasing 



For a complete work on thk subject of this 
chapter, we recommend 

HEDGES, WINDBREAKS, SHELTERS AND LIVE FENCES, by E. P 
Powell. Planting^ growth and management of hedge plants for country and 
suburban homes. Gives accurate directions concerning hedges; how to plant 
and treat them.; and especially concerning windbreaks and shelters. Price 
80c., postpaid. Secure this book where you bought your Garden Guide. 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention 
if you do not use the Index freely 



CHAPTER IV 



Trees and Shrubs 

Trees for Shade and Shelter Upon the Lawn — Street Trees — 
Evergreens — Planting Trees — Best Shrubs— Shrubs with Edible 
Berries — Evergreen Shrubs — Ground Cover and Low Growing 
Shrubs — Low Growing and Trailing Shrubs for Various Pur- 
poses — Bushes for Wet Places — Flowering the Branches of 
Shrubs Indoors — Blooming Dates of Trees, Shrubs and 
Climbers — ^How to Treat Nursery Stock and Material Gathered 

from the Wild 

TREES 

THERE is nothing more exalting than a great tree, and as Prof. 
Bristow Adams suggests : "The wonderful thing about the tree is 
that it keeps growing year after year and thus takes its place 
as the oldest living thing." As such we should revere it as a choice 
heritage, or if we find no 
trees growing on our land 
we should plant them for 
our posterity. 

Not only should we 
plant trees, but we 
should care for them 
properly and prune and 
spray them intelligently. 
Because we are neglect- 
ful one year, an Elm 
which has grown for a 
hundred years may be so 
damaged by the Elm 
beetle, that recovery will 
be slow. We owe it to 
the community to try 
to save it. Do not allow 
the removal of trees by 
telephone companies. 
When excavating for 
building foundations or 

grading give careful o- i • n . ^ 

" ® ^ ^ The Piu Oak in all its beauty, 

thought for their pro- As a street tree, even with the necessary trimming 
X . • " of its lower branches, it is still imposing. Hard 

lecuon. and long lived 

43 




44 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Trees for Shade and Shelter Upon the Lawn 

The trees each of us would choose for our lawn decoration would 
most probably be those for which we have a personal liking. From 
childhood, we reverence a certain type of tree either because of fruits 
it bears, its shape or its Fall colors. Nothing compares with the 

American Elm for 
restful beauty; es- 
pecially so are the 
forms which are vase- 
shaped and with foli- 
age to the soil. The 
Tulip tree makes a 
strong appeal; the fo- 
Hage is glossy bright 
green above and pale 
below, and the tight 
bark of older trees is 
beautiful. What is 
more effective than a 
huge Red or Black 
Oak with its strong 
and often crooked 
branches, which so 
often grow out at 
right angles to the 
trunk Such a tree 
is in mind which 
takes up as much 
room as the Uttle 
Dutch house beneath 
it. Specimen Beeches, 
which are branched to the soil, though usually very formal in shape, . 
are yet graceful. All persons progressive enough to read garden books, 
of course, would never spoil the beauty of the lawn trees by removing 
the lower limbs. This especially applies to the Beech. It is peculiar, 
but many persons have not realized that if they prune off the limbs of a 
young tree it is very difficult ever to get new branches to start out 
from below again. The white Birch is graceful and dainty, but it is 
being attacked by a borer to such an extent that it is best not to 
advise planting it. To this brief list might be added a host of others 
according to personal preference. 

Besides the larger trees, there are a great number of very useful 




The Oriental Plane. Platanus orientalis 

Much used in street planting and best employed where the 
houses stand 60 to 80 feet apart across the street 



TREES IN TOWNS 



45 



smaller growing trees. There are many Crab Apples which are most 
excellent; one of the prettiest, with double pink flowers, is Bechtel's 
Crab. A very handsome variety of Japanese Crab, has deep red buds 
which on opening become white or a blush pink. The beauty of 
this tree in bloom is overpowering. Many of the Thorn Apples are 
handsome. They require a great deal of water and should not be 
planted where they can rob the perennials. 

A tree known but little and valued because of its very superior 
Autumn tints, is the Sorrel tree (Oxydendron) . For Autumn effect, 
the Maples are excellent, as is also the Sweet Gum. 

One must avoid great spots of vivid color in trees, for too great 
an abundance of purple Plums and Beeches, Japanese Maples and 
variegated yellow forms are going to de- 
stroy the* dignified beauty of your garden. 



Evergreens 

We must now say a word about the 
evergreens. They are ever beautiful and 
ever graceful as well as evergreen. To no 
other trees does the injunction to let the 
lower limbs grow apply so much as to the 
evergreens. How different are our tastes! 
In the evergreens some of us enjoy the in- 
formal, look-as-though-they-were-weather- 
beaten sorts. We enjoy Pines which have 
had some accident when young and have 
four or five trunks instead of one. We 
admire the Austrian Pine at any stage of 
its growth; the Pitch Pine when it becomes 
old and picturesque, with its sturdy short 
branches, and persistent globular cones, 
and the long, heavy foliage of the Red 
Pine. Others will much prefer the conical 
Firs and Spruces. The greatest beauty is 
seen in a perfect specimen of Norway or;p^ 
^Oriental Spruce, branching to the soil and 
hung with huge cones; or perhaps the blue- 
green or grayish-green foliage of the Silver ^ 
^Fir (Abies concolor) is a great attraction, 
for this is one of the most beautiful trees 
of this type. The latter is prettier than 
the Colorado Blue Spruce- which some 




American Arbor Vitae 

Thuya occidentalis fili- 
formis. Highly decorative, 
standing singly at any 
appropriate point 



46 



GARDEN GUIDE 



think is over planted; it is a 
trifle bright and has such stiff 
foHage that, in the minds of 
many, it does not compare with 
the softer and more graceful 
foliage of the Silver Fir. 

Among smaller growing 
evergreen trees we have the 
Japanese Cypresses or ' Re- 
tinisporas, the fohage of which 
is graceful and the habits 
charming. The Arbor Vitaes, 
especially the Chinese species, 
are very handsome. For mass 
planting, the Hemlock is ad- 
mirable; the foliage is most 
dainty; the trees merge into 
one another very nicely. Be- 
cause of the interesting bristly 
appearing cones and the soft 
foHage, the Douglas Fir is to 
be admired. The Rocky 
Mountain forms are hardy, 
but the Coastal Plain form is 
not in the East. The Irish 
Juniper is most slender and 
vertical, but it is an inferior 
tree because the Winter snows 
spread the branches and often 
break them or ruin the shape of the tree. It would seem well to tie 
the trees up a Uttle before Winter. The pyramidal forms of Juniperus 
virginiana are superior to the Irish Juniper. They are a substitute 
for the popular Cypress effects seen in France. 

Street Trees 

All trees are not adapted for street planting. Some of them are 
too rapid growing, so that the wood is soft and the trees short lived. 
The poplars well illustrate this class. They are miserable trees, for 
they break easily in storms; their roots enter the sewer pipes and 
they heave up sidewalks. Cities which have good forestry control 
are making the planting of this tree a misdemeanor. The soft Maple, 
the Sycamore Maple, the European Ash, Birches, Willows, Tulip Tree 
and the Box Elder come in this class. Other trees are objectionable 




The Colorado Blue Spruce 

There are more delicate and softer appearing 
evergreens, it is true, but even so the Blue 
Spruce has a place all its own as a sturdy, 
hardy and beautifully colored specimen tree 



TREES IN TOWNS 



47 



because their attractive fruits and flowers are apt to be picked. In 
this case, the form of the tree is usually spoiled. Examples of trees 
of this class are Chestnut, Hickory, Horse-Chestnut, Catalpa, Black 
or Common Locust, Magnolia, Dogwood, Mountain Ash. The Catalpa 
and Horse-Chestnut are really objectionable because of their mussy 
habit of dropping flowers, young fruits or bud scales. 

Good street trees stand adverse conditions, are more or less free 
from insects and diseases and furnish shade, but not too dense; they are 
long lived, and those which are arching are preferred by many to the 
more formal globular forms. Prof. Curtis of Cornell University, ad- 
vises the following trees for various widths of street. 

For narrow streets (less than sixty feet between buildings), 
the trees should be planted alternately and spaced forty feet apart. 
The following may be 
used: 

Pin Oak. A tree of 
medium size, more 
slender than most 
Oaks; one of best 
trees for narrow 
streets. Especially 
likes moisture, but 
will adapt itself to 
other conditions. 

Green Ash. A smaU 
but hardy tree. It 
is the species Frax- 
inus pennsylvanica, 
var. lanceolata. 

Tree of Heaven (Ai- 
lanthus glandulosa). 
This tree is excel- 
lent for dry paved 
tenement sections of 
cities, enduring 
smoke and dust. The 
wood is brittle and 
the trees are danger- 
ous when they are 
old. Because the 
flowers of the male 
tree emit a disagree- 
able odor the female 
form only should 
be planted. 

TT A' 'rl+V* ^ good garden composition. 

r or meamm Wiatn ^ ^^^^ ^^^^ p- ^^^^^ conifers as well as 

streets (from sixty deciduous subjects. The arch of Roses, the airy Summer 
f 4-4- '1,4- i? j.T_ house, the flower-fringed water pool and other features 

leet to eignty teet be- here are well placed and excellent 




48 



GARDEN GUIDE 



tween buildings), the trees should be spaced forty feet apart. The 
following may be used : 

Oriental Plane. An excellent street tree. It is of rather rapid growth; 
stands smoke. 

Norway Maple. A drought-resistant and smoke-enduring, symmetrical 
and tough tree. It is too low-headed for streets with wires. 

Maidenhair Tree, or Ginkgo. When young, this tree is very erect, but 
when it becomes older, the head broadens out. 

For wide streets (over ninety feet between buildings), the trees 
should be spaced fifty feet apart, and where possible they should be 
planted on the lawn six feet inside the sidewalk line. This should be 
agreed upon and carried out uniformly by all property owners on the 
street. The following may be used: 

American Elm. The best of all street trees when given room, good air 
and water. The tree grows 80 to 100 feet tall. 

Red Oak. It cannot grow in pavements, but is very well adapted to 
wide suburban streets, where it stands poor and dry soil, but does not 
thrive in wet situations. 

Sugar, or Hard Maple. An excellent tree needing moisture and suffer- 
ing from heat, smoke and dust. It should only be used on the wider 
streets. 

Planting Trees 

The best method of ascertaining how to plant a tree properly 
is to observe the carefully prepared sketches. More can be seen 
in these pictures than can be expressed in words. The main object 
is to have a hole large enough for the roots, and to get the trees just a 
little deeper than they stood in the nursery. An important necessity 
for newly set trees is a support. The wind whips the tree about and 
the young roots are easily loosened. Stakes should be set deeply and 
be a real support ; or the tree may be supported by wires, taking care 
that these wires are in contact with rubber packings on the branches 
so that they are not girdled ; pieces of old rubber hose may be used for 
this purpose. 

Shrubs 

(Take our advice and pick out a few varieties that no one in your town has; 
don't limit yourself to what everyone sees everywhere, Hydrangeas, Snowballs, 
common Lilacs, etc. If you are thinking of going into shrubs, get a catalog from 
a reliable dealer and study it carefully for its illustrations and letterpress. Bear 
in mind that the cheapest is not always the best ; also that the larger plants are 
naturally dearer than the smaller ones. Where nearly every shrub is so beauti- 
ful it is a comparatively easy matter to select two or three out of the ordinary.) 

For the garden, whether large or small, some shrubs are necessary. 
They not only furnish a good foliage background, but some are very 
beautiful for their flowers, which are not only decorative in a landscape 
way, but are highly useful for cutting. They are the proper sort of 
plants for hedges and for screening unsightly objects. 



THE USE OF SHRUBS 



49 




Wrong method of planting. 

In the left hand picture the tree is obviously 
placed too high, and its roots are also cramped. 
In the other case the soil is mounded up too 
much, thus shedding off the water 



In establishing a new plant- 
ing of shrubs give the soil good, 
deep preparation and spade in 
a liberal supply of stable manure 
and bonemeal. Let the plant- 
ing be done either- in Spring or 
Fall. In the Spring shrubs 
should be set out as early as 
the soil can be worked. After 
the growing season begins they 
are somewhat weakened by 
not being in the soil; besides, 
they should be well established 
before the hot weather arrives. 
Many gardeners prefer to plant 
in the Fall because often there is less work which is urgent at that 
time of the year. All such stock should be given ariiple time in 
which to have an opportunity to get their roots established before per- 
manent freezing and should be thereby protected during the Winter 
by a good mulching of manure. For an immediate effect the shrubs 
should be planted almost twice as closely as they are to stand per- 
manently. It is, therefore, ad- 
vised to plant only part of your 
place the first year and plant it 
thickly. By the time you are 
ready to plant the other part 
you can draw upon the first 
planted beds for your stock. 
Gardens, unlike houses, can be 
changed and rearranged easily. 
Shrubs rarely suffer from 
transplanting if done at the 
right time and watered thor- 
oughly. 

The proper time for prun- 
ing is very important. See 
chapter XVIII on this subject. 




This tree is correctly pfanted, each root well 
epread, and neither too deep nor too ^ igh. 
The dotted lines show where to dig if it is re- 
quired to transplant it 



Certain of the Best 
Shrubs 

For general screen plant- 
ing few shrubs compare with 



50 



GARDEN GUIDE 



the Lilac. It is exceedingly hardy and the flower is always a favorite. 
If the good varieties of Lilacs are used, the individual blooms will be 
important. The only way to grow good, large blooms is to keep all the 
suckers from the base of the plant removed; plants so treated will 
resemble trees. 

Here is a selection of good varieties of Syringa vulgaris, the garden 
Lilac, flowering in late May: Single — Marie Le Graye, white; Charles 
X, rosy lilac; Frau Bertha Dammann, white; Ludwig Spaeth, deep 
purple-red; Gloire des Mouhns, rosy lilac; Alba grandiflora, white. 
Double — Mme. Lemoine, white; Miss Ellen Willmot, white; La Tour 
d'Auvergne, violet-purple; Mme. Casimir-Perier, creamy white; Presi- 
dent Grevy (semi-double), bluish lavender; Antoine Buchner, Ught pink. 
Van Houttei's Spiraea, also known as Bridal Wreath, is unrivaled 

for prolificacy and grace of bloom. 
While the long sprays of white blossoms 
are soon shattered by the rains and the 
plant does not give a very permanent 
flower effect, yet, with its beautiful 
green foliage and bushy growth, when 
properly pruned, it remains a most 
satisfactory shrub. 

For the early Spring display there 
is nothing so cheery as the bright yellow 
flowers of the Golden Bell (Forsythia), 
of which there are several forms; the 
one known as suspensa is most effective 
when planted at the top of a wall or rock 





A planting diagram of the National Rose Society. 

The whitened parts of the stem indicate the depth to which a standard and a 
dwarf Rose should be planted; that is, the same depth as they were when in the 

nursery 



FLOWERING SHRUBS 



51 



ledge and allowed to grow down. Even after flowering the foliage 
retains a good color. The upright forms need to be massed, as 
individuals are not graceful. 

A popular Summer-flowering hardy shrub is the Hydrangea panic- 
ulata grandiflora. It has handsome dark green foliage and bears in 
great profusion immense panicles of white flowers, which gradually 
change to rose and bronze. The shrub should be severely pruned in 
early Spring. 

The Snowball (Viburnum opulus sterile) is one of the best of 
flowering shrubs, bearing clusters of handsome globular pure white 
flowers in May. 

Bush or Shrub Honeysuckles (Loniceras) are attractive shrubs of 
upright habit and very desirable for mass and border planting. They 
produce showy flowers which are often followed by bright-colored 
berries. 

No shrubbery is complete without a specimen or two of the 
Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), of which there are several forms. 
They are beautiful little trees or shrubs of graceful habit, their delicately 
cut leaves of various shades of color being especially attractive in 
Spring and Autumn. 

Excellent beds or borders are arranged, using tall shrubs, such as 
Red Bud (Cercis) and Hawthorns at the back, with Mock Orange 
(Philadelpuhs coronarius) and Wiegela at the^ midground and edged 
with Deutzia graciUs or Spiraea Thunbergii; or for lower beds, the use 




Grouping of Spiraea Van Houttei and Viburnum plicatum (Snowball) 



50 



GARDEN GUIDE 



of Berberis vulgaris at back with Berberis Thunbergii and Mahonia in 
the foreground. 

For a bed remaining attractive during the Winter use a few Ker- 
ria japonicas, which have green twigs, or Cornus alba sibirica, with its 
red twigs, both of which retain their color all Winter. 

There is a large group of shrubs with beautiful foliage. None 
equals the graceful horizontal branching of Kegel's Privet. The flowers 
are not very conspicuous, being white, but they are followed by attrac- 
tive black berries. The dainty narrow^ minute foUage of the Spiraea 
Thunbergii is excellent ; the tiny white flowers coming in early May add 
an extra charm. In the region of central New York the tips of branches 
Winter-kill, so that they need to be dressed a Uttle in the Spring. 

Certain shrubs are fascinating because of peculiar flowers, seeds 
and bark. The Sweet Shrub, Calycanthus floridus, or, as it is also 
called, the Strawberry Shrub, is very interesting; the twigs are aromatic 
aU Winter and the leather-petaled, dull red flowers are very individual 
in fragrance. Picked today they have one fragrance, perhaps that of 
Strawberries; tomorrow, the fragrance is more like that of Apples. 
Closely resembling C. floridus is C. Isevigatus, but the flowers of the 
latter are not so sweet. The W^inged Spindle-Tree (Euonymus alata) 
bears pecuhar corky angles on the twigs, and a funny little orange 
fruit inside of a hard red husk. 

Shrubs with Edible Berries 

Shrubs which, though ornamental, produce berries which are good 
to eat, are interesting not only to you, but to the birds they attract. 
Many persons do not know that Barberries make a very good jam, es- 
pecially palatable served with the Thanksgiving turkey or wild game, 
being appropriate as well as tasty. Goumi, or Elaeagnus longipes, pro- 
duces an elongated red berry in June or July which is exceUent picked 
from the plant and eaten. The Vacciniums, Blueberry or Huckleberry, 
besides being ornamental, are, as we all know, of an exceUent flavor. 
Elderberries to some tastes make a pie superior even to Huckleberries. 
The red-fruited variety should not be eaten. The Nannyberry (Vi- 
burnum Lentago) bears a black fruit very freely. It has somewhat 
the flavor of Bananas. Besides, there are the Blackberries, the Rasp- 
berries and the Currants, species which are often ornamental. 

Broad-Leaved Evergreen Shrubs 

There are a number of interesting evergreen shrubs. None are so 
popular as the Rhododendrons, which should have a soil free from 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS 



53 




Mixed but effective planting of Iris, Peonies, Rhododendrons and 
Juniperus stricta on top of terrace. Lombardy Poplars are seen in 
the backgrcftind at rear of house 



lime. If you live in a limestone region, before you attempt to grow 
them dig out the beds to a depth of three feet, filling in with good wood- 
soil or leaf-mold. Provide good drainage by putting a layer of ashes at 
bottom of the trench. The secret of success with Rhododendrons^ is 
to keep the roots cool and moist. In Winter they should be deeply 
mulched with leaves. In Summer they must have an abundance of 
water. In some Rhododendron plantations a "syringe'* of water plays 
upon the beds continually. They like shade usually, but often by a 
proper choice of plants, plantations may be successful even in the sun. 
In Winter a framework of burlap gives the protection from the wind. 
They should always be massed, for Rhododendrons, unless in beds by 
themselves, are either apt to receive too much fussy care or none at all. 
The best early varieties are Roseum elegans, an old rose colored va- 
riety and Everestianum a lavender, both flowering in late May. 
Then in early June we have Album elegans, a large white; Mrs. C. S. 
Sargent, a pink; Caractacus, a red; purpureum, a purple; and Lady 
Grey Egerton, a silvery gray lavender. 

There are a number of Azaleas which are most brilliant, the best 
being Azalea pontica and A. mollis, in the various colors, and Azalea 
amoena, which is a superb claret pink. 



54 



GARDEN GUIDE 




A garden scene in Summer. 

In this bosky dingle are shrubs of many kinds and tall umbrageous trees. The 
Bananas are grouped for the season only; likewise the Yuccas; filamentosa is the 

hardiest of the Yuccas 



A shrub which has proved perfectly hardy is the Japanese Holly 
(Ilex crenata, var. microphylla) ; it grows about four feet tall and is 
excellent. The American Holly is hard to transplant but seems hardy 
as far north as Cape Cod. The leaves should be removed and plants 
transplanted in the Spring. The Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifoha), 
is, perhaps, the best evergreen shrub grown; it succeeds a httle easier 
than Rhododendrons and without protection of the tops retains a 
good appearance all through the Winter. The Mahonia, or Oregon 
Grape (Mahonia aquifolium), is an excellent shrub; it succeeds perfectly 
if planted so that leaves are shaded from Winter sun. It surely looks 
fresh, green and glossy in Midwinter. 

Ground Cover and Low Growing Shrubs 

Oftentimes one wishes a ground cover of very low shrubbery in 
the shade, and few plants are as valuable as Pachysandra terminahs 
for this purpose. Vinca minor is also useful; but the leaves are not so 
large. The common Juniper (Juniperus communis adpressa) is also 
valuable; it requires sun. All of these three plants are evergreen. Sev- 
eral excellent low deciduous shrubs for ground cover in the sunshine 
are the aromatic Dwarf Sumach (Rhus aromatica) and Yellow Root 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS 



55 



(Xanthorrhiza apiifolia), which spreads rapidly by underground stems; 
it does not thrive in Hmestone soils. Sweet Fern (Myrica asplenifoha) 
will thrive on the driest, sunniest slopes; Memorial Rose (Rosa Wichur- 
aiana) is excellent, bearing numerous white flowers in late June or July; 
English Ivy; and Euonymous radicans var. vegeta may also be used. 
The Enghsh Ivy, though very beautiful, is often rather tender; it en- 
joys a moist soil and shade in Winter. 

Climbing Vines 

Nothing contributes more to the charm of the home surroundings 
than a good show of hardy climbing vines, judiciously placed for cover- 
ing walls and tree stumps, adorning the veranda and Summer-houses 
or creeping up the walls of the house. The well-known Japanese or 
Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii) is a fast grower and clings to wall or 
tree, its leaves turning to a dark red in the Fall. Very satisfactory as 
coverings for arbors or trellises are the dark- and bright-leaved Silver 
Vines (Actinidia). The hardy Clematis paniculata, with its wealth of 
beautiful foliage and masses of small, pure white, fragrant flowers 
which cover the upper portion of the plant in early Autumn, is partic- 
ularly useful for growing about the porch or on trelHses, An excellent 
vine for covering brick or stone walls and draping trunks of trees is the 
Climbing Hydrangea, H. petiolaris, the value of which is not as gener- 
ally realized as it should be. It is a plant of Japanese origin, of unique 
and graceful appearance, especially when in flower; propagates readily 
from either Summer cuttings or layers, begins to grow early in the 
season, and is reliably hardy, though it should be afl'orded some Winter 
protection in the colder sections. 

Other vines which may be used to advantage are : Akebia quinata, 
purplish brown flowers; Climbing Honeysuckles (Loniceras), handsome 
foliage and sweet-scented flowers; Aristolochia sipho (Dutchman's 
Pipe), brownish colored flowers, resembling a pipe; Bignonia (Trumpet 
Vine), bearing large, trumpet-shaped, orange-red flowers. 

Low Growing and Trailing Shrubs for Various 

Purposes* 

Deciduous. 

Cotoneaster horizontalis. For edging; semi-evergreen. 

Daphne Mezereum. Flowers light purple, appearing in early April before the leaves. 
There is a white variety. An erect shrub 3 feet high, with stout branches, which are 
flexible and leathery like those of Leatherwood {Dirca palustris) . 

Hypericum Buckleyi. Forms neat, compact mats. The earliest of the Hypericums. 

Flowers yellow, early July. 
Lonicera spinosa [ — L. Alhertii]. Has slender twigs and narrow linear leaves. Flowers 
pink, late May, Plant low, from 1 to 2 feet high. 



56 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Rhododendron canadense (Rhodora). A slender shrub, 2 feet high. Is good in a rock 
garden with a ground cover of the following species. Flowers rosy purple, appearing 
before the leaves in late April and early May. 

Vaccinium pennsylvanicum (Early Low Blueberry). From 6 to 12 inches high. Should 
make good dwarf edging. Flowers white in early May. 

Evergreen. 

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi (Bearberry). A creeping, vine-like shrub with small leaves, 
abundant in Canada, forming broad mats over rocky ledges and slopes. Berries red. 
Bryanthus (See Phyllodoce). 

Calluna vulgaris (Scotch Heather). Flowers pink, July and August. There is a white 
variety. 

Chimaphila umbellata (Prince's Pine, or Pipsissewa) . Somewhat resembles Pachysandra. 
Cotoneaster adpressa and C. microphylla. Resemble C. horizontalis, mentioned above, 

but are more dwarf and evergreen. Both have a neat habit and glossy foliage. May 

not be hardy everywhere, but should be tried for low, stiff edging. 
Daphne Cneorum (Garland Flower). Dense and compact. Pink flowers in May. 

Excellent for edging. From 6 to 12 inches high. Twigs flexible and leathery, as 

those .of D. Mezereum, described above. 
Dendrium [ — Leiophyllum] buxifolium (Sand Myrtle.) A dense shrub, to 3 feet high. 

There is a low, tufted form, var. prostratum. Flowers white or blush in May. 
Empetrum nigrum (Black Crowberry). 

Erica carnea (Hardy Spring Heath.) Pink in April and May. From 6 to 12 inches high. 
Gaultheria procumbens (Wintergreen, or Checkerberry,) Red berries. Leaves have good 
flavor. 

Gaylussacia brachycera (Box Huckleberry). Very dwarf and compact. 

Juniperus Sabina var. tamariscifolia. A very neat Juniper for edging. 

Lycopodium obscurum (Ground Pine) . A native Club Moss related to Trailing Christmas 
Green (L. complanatum) , but with stems erect and treelike, to 12 inches high. 

Mitchella repens (Partridge Berry). This and the preceding are two creeping, vine- 
like plants excellent for the rock garden. Moneywort has bright yellow flowers in 
June, and Partridge Berry has handsome red berries all Winter. 

Phyllodoce [ — Bryanthus] ccerulea (Mountain Heath). A low alpine shrub, from 3 to 6 
inches high. Flowers pinkish purple, July. 

Potentilla tridentata. Plant from 4 to 8 inches high, forming thick mats. Foliage bronz- 
ing in Winter. Flowers white. Strawberry-like. 

Rhododendron [ — Azalea hinodegira.] A low shrub, better than R. amcBna, leaves large, 
and flowers a brilliant red. Late May and early June. 



*LiQt revised from Curtis, Cornell Bulletin 361. 



Bushes for Wet Places 

When planting grounds it is often desired to obtain shrubs for 
planting in wet places, some that will attract either by their flowers, 
berries or other features. 

There is a shrub which always comes to mind when this subject 
is thought of, Clethra alnifolia, because of the profusion and fragrance 
of its flowers. It blooms in Midsummer or later, the bush is usually 
covered with panicles of white flowers of peculiar fragrance. In its 
wild state it is usually found on the banks of streams, or otherwise near 
water, so that it is well suited when planted in similar positions. There 
is another native Clethra, the C. acuminata, but the alnifolia is the 
best for the purpose. 

The White Fringe, Chionanthus virginica, is at home in a wet 
place. It is wild in situations which are almost under water at times. 
This has >yhite flowers, too, but they come early in Spring with the 



SELECTIONS OF SHRUBS 



leaves, and because of the fringe -like appearance of the flowers the 
shrubs are called Old Man's Beard in some portions of the South. 

Another shrub of great merit is the Magnolia glauca, the one of 
our swamps and low grounds, which is almost evergreen, and famous 
everywhere for the fragrance of its flowers. It is often found side by 
side with the White Fringe. Both of these, though often Usted as 
shrubs, grow to the size of a small tree in time, if kept to one shoot 
when young. 

The Bay berry, Myrica cerifera, is a good wet position shrub, de- 
lighting in damp ground, although it can be found growing wild on 
light gravelly soil. When grown in groups where one plant shelters 
the other they are somewhat evergreen in character. The flowers are 
greenish white and small, making no display to attract, but the berries 
when ripe are covered with a white, waxy substance, making their 
clusters conspicuous and attractive. 

Found in similar situations to the above mentioned shrubs is the 
Azalea viscosa, a species renowned for the fragrance of its blooms. 
The flowers are pure white, expanding in July and August. It is one 
of the most admired of Azaleas, yet not at all common in cultivation. 

In Vacciniums (Blueberries), a good one for wet ground, is V. 
corymbosum. It delights in such situations. In Spring it presents to 
view beautiful clusters of white flowers. Edible, dark colored berries 
follow; later on, with the approach of Autumn, the foliage becomes of 
a lovely orange bronze color. It is then foremost of all the foliage 
shrubs famous for their Autumnal display of color. 

The Sheep Laurel (Kalmia angustifolia) with its purplish pink 
flowers may also be used; as also the Ghamaedaphne, the Andromeda 
and Ledum. 

These shrubs would give one a good start in planting a wet place, 
but they do not exhaust the list; many more could be added. 

Flowering the Branches of Shrubs Indoors 

Many persons know that the buds of Pussy Willow and Golden 
Bell when brought into the house open nicely when placed in water, 
but few avail themselves of the pleasures in store for them by cutting 
the branches of a great many shrubs and trees early in the Spring or 
late Winter, and bringing them indoors. The nearer Spring the sooner 
will the buds burst into bloom. Shrubs should be chosen which bloom 
upon wood of previous season and many of the early Spring blooming 
trees and shrubs can be used. The shoots may simply be placed in 
water and allowed to start naturafly, but if they are placed in a base- 
ment and sprayed several times a day with warm water they will open 



58 



GARDEN GUIDE 



much more quickly. The forced branches lend themselves to **Japan- 
esey" arrangements and have an airy grace which is very charming. 
The following shrubs and trees are useful for above treatment: 



Bladder Senna (Colutea arborescens) . Light 
yellow. 

Cornelian Cherry (Cornus Mas). Yellow. 
Deutzia gracilis. White. 
Flowering Almond. (Prunus triloba). Pink. 
Flowering Currant (Ribes aureum) . Yellow. 
Fragrant Honeysuckle {Lonicera fragrant- 

issima). White and pinkish. 
Golden Bell {Forsythia suspensa, viridissima, 

Fortunei). Forces very quickly. Yellow. 
Hazle {Corylus americana). Brown. 
Japanese Cherry {Cerasus rosea plena) . Pink. 
Japanese Quince (Cydonia japonica). Pink 

and red, very beautiful. 



Kerria japonica. Yellow. 
Mock Orange (Philadelphus) . White. 
Parkman's Crab (Pyrus Halliana). Deep 
pink. 

Pea Tree (Caragana frutescens) . Yellow. 
Pearl Bush (Exochorda grandi flora) . White. 
Pussy Willow {Salix discolor). Gray. 

Forces very quickly. 
Red Bud (Cercis canadensis and japonica). 

Pinkish lavender. 
Shad Bush (Amelanchier canadensis and 

botryapium) . White and pink. 
Thunberg's Spiraea {Spircea Thunbergii) 

White, light and airy; very good. 



BLOOMING DATES OF TREES, SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS 

T-Tree S-Shrub C-Climber 

*Indicates that blooming period is likely to extend beyond the date under which it is classed. 

{Revised from a list by Samuel N. Baxter and compiled for the latitude of Philadelphia, 
North and south of that city the blooming dates will be respectively later and earlier. 

AprU 1 to 15 Height Color of 

Botanical Name Common Name Group {ft.) Flowers 

*Daphne Mezereum album Mezereon Daphne S 3 White 

Lonicera fragrantissima. Bush Honeysuckle S 6 White 




A clump of White Lilac 



BLOOMING DATES, TREES, SHRUBS, CLIMBERS 59 



Cornus Mas Cornelian Cherry S 

♦Magnolia stellata Dwarf Magnolia S 

♦Forsythia suspensa. Weeping Golden Bell S 

♦Acer rubrum , Red Maple T 

♦Acer platanoides Norway Maple T 

♦Benzoin sestivale Spice Bush , S 

Thunbergii Thunberg's Spiraea S 



April 16 to 30. 

Magnolia conspicua .Yulan T 

Magnolia Soulangeana Soulange's Magnolia T 

Magnolia Kobus Japanese Magnolia T 

Cerasus Avium alba, and rosea 

plena Dt)uble-fiowering Cherry. . T 

Cerasus Sieboldi rubra plena. . . . Double-flowering Cherry. T 

♦Cercis japonica Japanese Judas Tree S 

♦Cercis canadensis. Red Bud T 

♦Andromeda japonica Japanese Fetter Bush. . . .S 

♦Leucothoe Catesbsei Leucothoe S 

♦Pyrus japonica Japanese Quince S 

♦Spiraea prunifolia Bridal Wreath S 

♦Citrus trifoliata Hardy Trifoliate Orange. . S 

♦Prunus (Amygdalus) Persica.. . .Flowering Peach. T 

♦Prunus (Amygdalus) nana Flowering Almond S 

♦Sassafras officinale Sassafras T 

♦Amelanchier Botryapium Juneberry, or Shad Bush.S 

♦Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush S 

Ostrya virginiana. . . . , Iron wood (catkins) T 

♦Syringa oblata Early Lilac S 

♦Ribes aureum and eanguin- 

eum Flowering Currant S 

♦Prunus Pissardi Purple Plum S 

Corylopsis pauciflora S 

♦Rhus aromatica Aromatic Sumac S 



15-20 
5-8 
8 

15-100 
100 
10-15 
5 



50 
15 
80 

25 
15-25 
15-50 

20 

10-30 
6 

3- 4 
6 

15-20 
10-25 
5 

30-60 
25 
6-8 
30 
12 

4- 5 
15-25 

2- 3 

3- 8 



Yellow 

White 

Yellow 

Pink 

Yellow 

Yellow 

White 



White 

Pink 

White 

White, pink 

Red 

Pink 

Pink 

White 

White 

White, red 

White 

White 

White, yel., pk 
White, pink 
Yellow 
White 
White 

Blue 

Yellow, red 
White 
Yellow 
Yellow 



May 1 to 15 

♦Staphylea colchica Bladder-nut S 

♦Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria S 

♦Kerria japonica Globe Flower S 

♦Cornus florida and rubra Flowering Dogwood T 

Wistaria sinensis and alba Chinese Wistaria C 

Pyrus (Malus) Parkmanni 

(HaUiana) Flowering Apple T 

Pyrus coronaria, loensis Flowering Apple T 

Pyrus floribunda atropurpurea 

and Schiedeckeri Flowering Apple T 

Magnolia Lennei and Meehanii. Purple Magnolias T 

Magnolia Fraseri Eraser's Magnolia T 

Magnolia gracilis and purpurea. . Bush Magnolias S 

♦iEsculus Hippocastanum White Hor^e Chestnut T 

♦iEsculus rubicunda Red Horse Chestnut T 

♦Xanthoceras sorbifolia Chinese Flowering Chest- 
nut S 

Azalea amcena Evergreen Azalea S 

Azaleas pontica and mollis Ghent and Chinese 

Azaleas .S 

Azalea nudiflora Wood Honeysuckle S 

Azalea Vaseyi Carolina Azalea S 

Rhodora canadensis Rhodora S 

♦Elaeagnus longipes and umbel- 

latus Silver Thorn S 

♦Cerasus Padus, pennsylvanica 

andpumila Bird and Dwarf Cherries. T 

Crataegus coccinea White Thorn S 

Caragana arborescens and 

pendula Siberian Pea S 

Halesia tetraptera Silver Bell, or Snowdrop. . . S 

♦Berberis vulgaris, purpurea 

and Thunbergii Common, Purple and 

Japanese Barberry S 



12 
6 

5-10 

20 

20 

20 
20 

10-15 
10-15 

40 

10 
60-80 
20-40 

15 
1-8 

3-5 
5-8 
5-8 

2 



10-15 
15 

6-8 
20 



4-6 



White 
White 
Yellow 
White, pink 
White, blue 

Pink 
Pink 

Red 

Purple 

White 

Purple 

White 

Red 

White 
Pink 

White, yellow 

Pink 

Pink 

Pink 



6-12 White 



White 
White 

Yellow 
White 



Yellow 



60 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Asiinioa triloba. I*awpaw 

Akebia quiiiata Akebia 

*Lonicera grandiflora rosea and 

Morrowii Bush Honeysuckle. 



Pavia rubra Dwarf Horse Chestnut 



*Viburnum Sieboldi Siebold's JSnowball. 

*Viburnum Lantana Wayfaring Tree 



*Deutzia Leraoinei and gracilis. 



*Calycanthus fioridus Sweet Shrub 

*Sorbus Aucuparia Mountain Ash. 

*Fraxinus Ornus Flowering Ash. 

*Gemsta ecoparia Scotch Broom. . 



T 


in_iin 


Brown 






x^urpie 


q 


a 
0 


Wnite, pmk 


Q 
. O 


2-4 


irmk 


. i 


40 


Purple 


i 


5-7 


Red 


. o 


0 
0 


Wmte 




6-8 


White 


. b 


6 


White 


o ■ 


10-15 


White 


. o 


4-5 


Pink 


o 

. o 


4-5 


White, pink 


a 
.0 


0-0 


White 


s 


1 


Pink 


s 


3-5 


Reddish brown 


T 




w niie 


T 


25 


White 


S 


3 


Yellow 


S 


12-15 


White 


S 


10-12 


Blue 



*Syringa rothomagensis (chi- 

nensis) Rouen Lilac 

*Syringa, French named va- 
rieties Improved Single and 

Double Lilac S 10-12 White, pk., etc. 

Sambucus pubens Red-berried Elder S 6-8 White 

*Tamarix africana Tamarisk S 15 Pink 

*Spirsea Van Houttei Van Houtte's Spirsea . . . .S 5-6 White 

Xanthorrhiza apiifolia Yellow Root S 10-20 Brown 



May 16 to 30 

Azalea calendulacea Flame Azalea.. S 

Staphylea trifoliata and Bu- 

malda American and Japanese 

Bladder-nut S 

*CIematis Named Hybrids Large-flowering Clematis . C 

*Robinia pseudo-acacia Yellow or Black Locust.. .0 

*Crat8egus Oxyacantha and 

Paul's Scarlet English Hawthorns S 

*Chionanthus virginica White Fringe S 

Neviusia alabamensis Snow Wreath S 

*Laburnum vulgare Golden Chain T 

*Rosa rugosa and alba Japanese Roses S 

^Rhododendron hybrids Named Hybrids S 

* Viburnum plicatum Japan Snowball S 

*S3'ringa persica and alba Persian Lilacs S 

Syringa Emodi (villosa) Lilac S 

Syringa pubescens Lilac S 

Cerasus serotina Wild Cherry T 

Spirsea Reevesiana Reeves' Spirsea S 

Cornus alba Red-stem Dogwood S 

♦Viburnum Opulns High Bush Cranberry. . . .S 

* Viburnum prunifolium Sheepberry S 

Photinia villosa Photinia S 

*Liriodendron tulipifera Tulip Tree T 

Magnolia tripetala Umbrella Tree T 

♦Weigela Eva Rathke Crimson Diervilla S 

Wistaria multijuga and alba. . . .Japan Wistarias C 

♦Styrax obassia Storax T 

*Stephanandra flexuosa Stephanandra S 

*Philadelphua coronarius Mock Orange S 

♦Philadelphus Lemoinei Lemoine's Mock Orange . . S 

June 1 to 15. 

♦Bignonia capreolata Trumpet Vine C 

♦Hydrangea scandens Climbing Hydrangea C 

*Lonicera Halleana Hall's Honeysuckle C 



4-10 



6-8 

80 

15-20 
20-30 

3-6 

20 

3-5 
6-12 

6-8 

5-10 
8 
6 

80 
4 
8-10 
12 
15 
15 
150-190 
40 
5-6 

30 
5 
8-10 
3-6 



50 
80 
15 



Red 



White 

White, pk., blue 
White 

Red, white, pk 
White 
White 
Yellow 
White, pink 
White, pk., red 
White 
White, blue 
Pink 
White 
White 
White- 
White 
White 
White 
White 
Yellow 
White 
Blue 

White, purple 

White 

White 

White 

White 



Yellow 
White 

White, yellow 



BLOOMING DATES, TREES, SHRUBS, CLIMBERS 61 



*Lonicera sempervirens. ....... 


.Coral Honeysuckle 


C 


30 


Red 






T 


30-40 


White 


Gleditschia triacanthos 




T 


70-140 


White 


Andromecia (Pieris) JVIariana. 




S 




White 


Halesia diptera 


.Silver Bell, or Snowdrop. S 


30 


White 


Cladrastis tinctoria 




rp 
1 


30-40 


White 




. Cockspur Thorn 


s 


15-20 


White 


Kalmia latifolia and angusti- 












IVIountain Laurel . . 


s 


5-8 


Pink 


Syringa pekin^nsis 




S 


15 


White 


Syringa JosiksBa 




s 


12 


Purple 






T 


90 


White 


Magnolia macrophylla 


, Broad-leaf Magnolia. . . . 


T 


50 


White 






T 


10-12 


White 


"Deutzia crenata and Pride of 












Tall Dpiitzia 


s 


6 


White, pink 


*Ligustrum Regelianum and 










. Regal and Common 












S 


8-10 


White 




. Arrow- wood 


s 


15 


White 


Viburnum acerifolium 


.Maple-leaved Viburnum. 


.s 


6 


White 






s 


30 


White 


Stuartia japonica 




s 


50 


White 




.Wistaria Tree 


T 


25 


White 


*Sambucus racemosus and 










lap.iniata . 


"Rldp.rbprrv . 


s 


10 


White 


Rosa multiflora and rubiginosa. Japanese and Sweet Brier 






s 


10-12 


Pink 


Colutea arborescens 




s 


10-15 


Pink 


♦Cornus paniculata and sericea. 


. Cornel and Silky Dog- 










s 


5-8 


White 






c 


30-40 


Blue 


Wistaria magnifica 




C 


30-40 


Blue 


Physocarpus (Spiraea) opulifolia. Nine Bark 


s 


9-10 


White 




.Billard's Spiraea 


s 


5-6 


Pink 


*Amorpha fruticosa and canes- 








. False Indigo and Lead 










Plant 


s 


10-15 


Blue 




• Jersey Tea 


s 


2-3 


White 




.Kentucky Coffee 


T 


100 


White 


June 16 to 30. 














s 


6 


White 


*Hydrangea grandiflora alba.. . . 




s 


25 


White 




.Ash-leaf Spiraea 


s 


4 


White 


*Rosa lucida and eetigera 




s 


4-6 


Pink 


*Rhododendron maximum 


. Rosebay or Great Laurel . S 


10-35 


Pink 


*Spir8ea Bumalda and A. 














s 


2 


Pink 


*Tilia americana 




T 


80 


White 


Catalpa speciosa 




T 


100 


White 






T 


20-50 


White 




. Purple Fringe or Mist 










Bush , 


s 


10-20 


Purple 




.Flowering Raspberry 


s 


3-6 


Pink 


♦Hydrangea paniculata (Early 














s 


20 


White 




. Wild Hydrangea 


s 


6 


White 




.Wild Hydrangea 


s 


4-10 


White 




.Japanese Hydrangea. . . . 


s 


8 


Pink, blue 


♦Hydrangea japonica c«ralea. 


. Japanese Hydrangea .... 


s 


8 


Pink, blue 




. Adam's Needle 


s 


5 


White 






s 


8-20 


White 




. Small White Azalea 


,s 


4-8 


White 




62 



NURSERY STOCK FROM THE WOODS 63 



How lo Treat Nursery Stock and Material Gathered 

from the Wild 

I Trees and shrubs in nurseries are so cultivated and transplanted 
that their roots make a symmetrical growth. The roots are thus short 
and branching because they search equally on both sides of the row 
for food. In the case of forest specimens they may have to go several 
feet for an opportunity to get food ; furthermore, the only opportunity 
for food may be in one direction. The roots are often very long and 
unbalanced, and when the trees are dug the few, long roots are seriously 
shortened. The precaution in using material from the woods should be 
carefully to prune the tops proportionately, supply water and give 
extra, painstaking treatment. 

Two Rose Bed Designs 



o o e 

LOS AISatLfS CHAJfr^U PE: KA^S^m /\UGUe>r/\ SUNBUI^ST 



A Rose bed, 4 ft. by 16 ft., showing a planting of Hybrid Tea and China Roses 



o o 


o o 




GCM JACQUQViiitoT Ducness 






QT^uss AfM Tmirz Clio 


o 











A Rose bed, 6 ft. by 16 ft. Contains both Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas. 
It is planned to be surrounded by grass paths. As the Hybrid Perpetuals do 
not bloom throughout the Summer, the Hybrid Teas will serve to continue to 

give a touch of color to the bed 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention 
if you do not use the Index freely 



CHAPTER V 



The Rose Garden 

Best Soils — Width of Beds — Preparation of Soil — Time to 
Plant — Distance Apart — Summer Treatment — Insects — Diseases 
— Kinds of Roses — Brier Roses — Climbing Roses — Tea Roses — 
Hybrid Teas — Hybrid Perpetuals — Pernetiana, Moss and 

Polyantha Roses 



N 



0 one really has a garden without some Roses. All sorts of Roses 
are admirable. Everyone says the same things about the location 
of the Rose garden — that it must be sheltered from the wind, but 
not surrounded, so that 
the air may have some 
circulation. It must not 
be in the proximity 
of large, water-robbing 
trees. It should have 
sun the greater part of 
the day. But everyone 
cannot locate his Rose 
garden in an ideal spot. 
Fortunately a few hardy, 
robust kinds can be 
grown under rather ad- 
verse conditions. 

Soils 

The soil best suited 
for Roses is usually con- 
sidered to be a medium 
heavy clay loam, es- 
pecially for Hybrid Per- 
petuals, Briers and 
climbers. The Hybrid 
Teas and Teas prefer a 
lighter soil. The .Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas and Teas require 
perfect drainage. 

Width of Beds 

Roses are best planted in beds. If they are to be worked from 
both side3, five or six feet is wide enough and three feet is the proper 
width for beds against the walls. Beds that are too wide necessitate 

64 




Rose walk at a country home. 

This arbor is covered with Prairie Roses, vars. 
Baltimore Belle and Queen of Prairie . 



GARDEN GUIDE 65 




X season. A variety of vines can be trained here 

stepping ill them when picking the blooms or when cultivating. Narrow 
beds are poor because of the intrusion of grass roots upon the nourish- 
ment which would otherwise go to the Roses. If possible it is best to re- 
serve the Rose beds for Roses alone and not attempt growing any 
other plants in these beds. 

i Preparation of Soil 

Dr. Huey has said that it is much better to put a fifteen-cent 
Rose bush in a fifty-cent hole than to put a fifty-cent Rose bush in a 
fifteen-cent hole. The preparation of the beds should take place in 
1 the Fall in order that the soil may have an opportunity to settle. 

All Rose beds should be dug eighteen inches or two feet deep. The 
subsoil should be loosened and thoroughly manured, then fill in to over 
half the depth with manured top-soil over which spread a good layer 
of compost. By compost we mean soil which has been thoroughly en- 
riched by manure (one barrow of manure to three of soil) and bone- 
meal; this should be allowed to become thoroughly iucorporated with 
the soil, piling alternate layers of 3oiI and manure and allowing to 



66 



G.\RDEN GUIDE 



remain for a few months or a year. When the bed is finished it should 
be two or three inches above the normal level. The main secret of 
successful Rose growing lies in the proper preparation of the bed. 

Time to Plant 

Spring is the best time to plant the Hybrid Teas and Teas. If 
the beds have been carefully prepared the previous Fall, the soil wiD 
get into good condition quickly. The nursery stored plants can be set 
out as soon as land can be worked. The pot-grown stock, if it is not 
crowded, can well be kept till May. These latter plants are growing 
and there is no necessity for giving a check by planting in open ground 
sooner. If the stock is frosted when received, cover the whole plant 
with soil until the frost is drawn out. The plants are often rather dry 
when received ; the bark is shriveled and the roots brittle. If the whole 
plant is either buried in soil or placed in water before planting, it will 
be greatly benefited. In planting budded or grafted Roses remove all 
buds which may be present upon the stock below the soil and prune the 

broken roots. All tops 
should be severely cut 
back so that each 
bears three to four 
eyes ; this is especially 
necessary and should 
not be neglected. The 
roots should bespread 
naturally and in the 
case of budded plants, 
so placed that the 
point budded is two 
or three inches below 
the surface of the soil. 
It is absolutely neces- 
sary to plant very 
firmly; the soil must 
be filled in about the 
roots most carefully 

and made soKd. The hole should not be entirely filled, but the plant 
should be watered, after which dry soil is placed on top to prevent 
baking. 

Distance Apart 

Teas are best planted fifteen inches, Hybrid Teas eighteen iuches, 
Hybrid Perpetuals three feet and Rugosas or ^loss Roses four feet 
apart. Varieties will differ greatly as to the amount of space needed.^ 




Showing the difference in foliage between a sucker 
*'B" and a good strong shoot "A" 

A — Tjrpical Rose leaf with five leaflets. B — Typical leaf 
of a ' sucker" or Brier with nine leaflets 



THE ROSE GARDEN 67 



Summer Treatment 

Keep the soil continually cultivated to retain as much moisture 
as possible; the stirring need not be deep, otherwise roots are injured. 
A mulch of lawn clippings is beneficial. Each time a new supply is 
ready the other will have been dried and worked into the soil. After 
every rain the soil should be loosened. A good syringing of water every 
day from the start of the season will go a long way toward keeping the 
insects off. The time for syringing is mei^ning or evening. At midday 
it is rather injurious to the foKage. All through the Summer watch 
for suckers; they usually have more leaflets — five to seven, the garden 
varieties having but three to five. They should not be broken off but 
cut down to the roots. (See cut) . 

Cutting Roses 

If the Roses are cut properly many varieties will continue to bloom 
until Autumn. The bud should be cut so that -five-leaf foliage is left 
.upon the stem. Refer to the 
sketch below. If the Rose stem is 
cut at C there is only a three-leaf 
remaining upon the stem ; such 
cuts rarely give such good flower 
stems. Cut at any R there are 
five-leaves left and flower buds 
will start growth very soon. Cut 
at any A other flower stems de- 
velop slowly, if at all. Cut Roses 
then to a five-leaf. 

Rose Insects 
The Rose plant louse or aphis 
is one of the commonest pests; it 
appears on the young growths and 
reproduces with great rapidity, 
soon covering the plants. The tips 
of branches are stunted and the 
buds only produce deformed flow- 
ers. The daily syringe advocated 
elsewhere will do much to lessen 
the attacks, for the insects will be 
washed off the plants. Whale oil 
soap (one pound to ten gallons of 
water), or some reliable nicotine 
preparation will surely kill them. 




Showing where to cut a Rose to obtain 
more flowers. See paragraph above 
^'Cutting Roses" 



THE ROSE GARDEN 



69 



There are several Rose slugs. In each case they are worms which 
skeletonize the leaves and even attack the plant when the leaves first 
unfold. Arsenate of lead (one pound arsenate of lead to twenty -five 
gallons of water) is effective, but even water will check them if appUed 
with force. Hellebore is good dusted on the leaves; it should first be 
diluted to half its weight with flour or plaster. 

The leaf hoppers can be controlled by spraying with tobacco ex- 
tract on under side of leaves. The Rose leaf roller can be controlled 
with arsenate of lead. There is also the Rose scale, which can easily 
be washed from the canes with corrosive subh- 
mate or on a large scale sprayed with lime 
sulphur, or the canes burned. 

The Rose beetle is especially prevalent on 
sandy soils. It appears in early Summer, feeding 
on leaves and flowers. Hand picking is really 
necessary. They should be dropped into kero- 
sene. The larvae feed on roots of Rose plants. 
Some persons have lessened the injury from Rose 
bugs by allowing chickens to have the run of the 
Rose beds for several hours a day in May, when 
the larvae are coming out of the ground. 

Rose Diseases 

Mildew causes a powdery effect upon leaves. 
It is especially prevalent upon the Crimson 
Ramblers and Moss Roses. It appears when 
the nights are cool and days are hot and sultry, 
and disfigm-es the plant, but does not affect the 
next year's crop of flowers. Powdered Sulphur upon the leaves is 
used as a control. 

Rlack Spot is the most serious disease of the American Reauty 
and other Hybrid Perpetuals*. It is confined to the foliage and appears 
in Midsummer. It iooks like a black or purple spot one-quarter inch 
in diameter; the blotches more evident on the upper surface. When 
the patches are examined they will be found to have a fine mycehum 
growing on them which causes premature defoliation. The leaves 
should always be removed if possible. Spray with Rordeaux mixture 
(3-5 -50), or other copper fungicides. 

Leaf-scroch, when severe, causes the infected areas of the leaf 
to drop out. The canes are also attacked. The wild Roses, too, are in- 
fested. The best control is to use copper fungicides. 

Rose Rust is especially prevalent on hardy varieties. It has 
Summer spores and Winter spores and attacks canes as well as leaves. 




Screen for the side or 
back of a house. 

Grape vines may be 
used, but they must 
be kept free of insects 
^nd other "crawly 
things." Ampf^lopsis, 
Clematis or Wichura- 
iana Roses also can be 
recommended 



70 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The best preventive is the removal and burning of all rusted canes. 

Rose Canker appears as a warty growth on the canes ; excrescences 
on wood. It can only be cut out when found. It is caused by a fungus. 

Kinds of Garden Roses 

Most of the Roses mentioned in the following pages are favorites 
in the North ; many other varieties can be tried in less severe climates 
— ^which refers also to the northern part of the Pacific coast. 

Rrier Roses. There is a huge group of shrubby or Rrier Roses. 
On the whole, they are hardy and grow under adverse conditions. 
Some of them will be useful for making a hedge. If a Rose garden is 
to be made, plan it in the Winter and make preparations to surround 
it with a row of Rriers. 

No Rose is hardier, freer-blooming and more disease-resistant 
than the Japanese Rugged Rose, or Rosa rugosa. Rearing single 




Rambler Rose Covered Summer House 

Such a structure as is shown here can be made by the man of the house or a local handy- 
man with tools 

and double, crimson, pink or white flowers, it is the first one to place 
in the hedge. There are a number of rugosa hybrids which are ad- 
mirable. 

Of charming fragrance and exquisite colors are the Penzance 
hybrids. Lord Penzance, a hybridizer of Roses, used the standard 



THE ROSE GARDEN 



71 



garden varieties of Roses and crossed them with the Sweet Brier. 
The result is a wonderful group of Roses with Apple-scented leaves and 
delicate pinkish orange, salmon and rose-pink single flowers. 

We must not pass over the early yellow Roses, two of which are of 
great importance. The earliest and lighter yellow Rose seen in every 
old-fashioned garden is the Persian yellow and a few days or weeks 
later the golden yellow variety, which is slightly tinged with red on 
some of the center petals, is Harrison's Yellow. The foliage of this, 
latter Rose is charming; it is a pity that these two Roses bloom but 
once a year. Another fine Brier well worthy of selection is the Prairie 
Brier, Rosa setigera, and as it has a tendency to climb, should be given 
some sort of a trellis or fence. It blooms late and bears huge pink 
single flowers in large trusses. 

Climbing Roses. While we are speaking of a trellis for the 
Prairie Rose, let us also say a word for the climbing Roses. They 
can well be planted around our little garden or they can be trained on 
poles, or on the porches. The old Crimson Rambler is disliked by 
many people because it gets buggy and mildewed. Instead, plant 
Excelsa, which is the hardiest and most brilliant crimson climber we 
have. The finest fight pink is without doubt the Dorothy Perkins; its 
clean foliage, dainty buds and abundance of bloom are highly admired. 
Tausendschon, or Thousand Beauties, is indeed another peerless pink; 
the individual flowers are large and stand out prominently in the 
trusses; the color, which is deep pink upon opening, changing later to 
white, is exquisite. A beautiful climbing Rose, with clusters of single 
deep crimson flowers, is Hiawatha. 

A large -flowering variety, and one on which the flowers are pro- 
duced very profusely, is the Christine Wright. The blooms are in 
smaU clusters and are of a clear wild-rose pink. The plants are some- 
times not great climbers, but they are effective, at least at the base 
of the piUar. Dr. W. Van Fleet is a leader in the hardy climbing class 
— a sturdy, rapid grower, with healthy, deep green fofiage and bearing 
a great profusion of large flowers, the long, pointed buds opening a 
delicate flesh-pink color. 

The yeUows are rather too tender to be really climbers. Aglaia is 
beautiful, being deep golden yellow in bud. Gardenia is the finest 
yeUow climber and succeeds nicely in central Ohio. The flowers are 
like Gardenias and the fofiage is glossy, firm and brilfiant. The pretty 
glossy fofiage of many of these Roses has been derived from the 
Memorial Rose (R. Wichuraiana). The Memorial Rose is very useful 
as a ground cover, being unexcelled for covering waste land, and 
trespassing upon steep banks can be successfully prevented by planting 
this Rose. 



72 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The Tea Roses. The Teas really are perpetual blooming; they 
have exquisite colors and thick, leathery petals; besides this, their buds 
are pointed, but they are tender and should receive good protection. 
The snow-white IVIaman Cochet is large, fragrant and productive; 
the color becomes a trifle pink in the Fall. The buds of Lady Hilling- 
don, deep apricot-yellow in color, are certainly irresistible for cutting. 
Marie Van Houtte, whose color can be described either as a pink 
shaded cream white or vice versa , is also charming. 

The Hybrid Teas. In the Hybrid Teas are combined some of the 
hardiness of the Hybrid Perpetual as well as the more or less perpetual 
blooming quality, and the richness of coloring and beauty of form of 
the Teas. The array of good varieties is almost endless. Among the 
pinks the first that deserves to be recognized is Jonkheer J. L. Mock, 
that beautiful Rose, the outside of the petals of which are much Ughter 
in color. The flowers are very fragrant and the stem erect and strong. 
The Killamey Brilhant is much superior to the Pink Killarney, but it 
is rather more single than the other pink varieties; although it opens 
quickly it remains for some time before shattering and is remarkable 
for its freedom of bloom. We cannot pass Lady AUce Stanley with- 
out recognition. The color is a lovely coral-rose, the inside a Uttle 
lighter. The flowers are nearly perfect in form, color, fragrance and 
size. The popular Caroline Testout, which is used extensively upon 
the streets of Portland, Oregon, is a superb bedding variety. Other fine 
pink varieties are Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Souvenir du President Carnot, 
Mrs. George Shaw\^er, Lady Ashtown, Dean Hole, La France. 

The most superb lemon white variety is, no doubt, Kaiserin 
Augusta Victoria ; it is constantly in bloom and has a superior elegance 
which makes it the best white Hybrid Tea. 

In reds we have, first, Gruss an Teplitz, a velvety rich glowing 
crimson and very sweet. It is never out of bloom from Spring until 
frost. A dazzling color is displayed by the variety Chateau de Clos 
Vougeot ; it is not a strong grower but a continual bloomer. Laurent 
Carle is much fighter than the other red varieties mentioned ; it is a car- 
mine and intensely fragrant. Etoile de France bears a very double, 
cup-formed flower of deep crimson. Other good reds are Lieutenant 
Chaure and Mary Countess of Ilchester. 

Among the salmony or coppery shades. Sunburst is one of the most 
successfully grown. It is superior to Mrs. Aaron Ward in color and 
form. Another is OpheHa, a more decided pink salmon than Sunburst, 
and a variety which has been received throughout the Rose world 
with enthusiasm. Mrs. Arthur Robert Waddell is free flowering; 
though rather small, it is a superb salmon rose with a golden sheen. 

It is difficult to know where to place some Roses, such as the in- 



THE ROSE GARDEN 



73 



comparable Mme. Edouard Herriot, the "Daily Mail" Rose, which is 
described by its introducer, Pernet-Ducher, as "coral red, shaded at 
the base with yellow." Another has described the color as appearing 
like "sunshine upon a copper-red metal." It is a splendid variety and 
worthy of acquaintance. One variety, a rich yellow, suffused carmine, 




The sort of garden we all delight in. Baby Dorothy Rose and 
Baby Tausendschon Roses are massed around the sundial 



commands the attention of all; it is Marquise de Sinety, a semi-double 
and very fragrant. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals. The word "perpetual" in the title of 
this group is a misnomer; they are not perpetual. They have resulted 
from a cross between the Tea, a perpetual Rose and the various groups 



74 



GARDEN GUIDE 



of very hardy Roses, so that they are hardy, but not in many cases 
do they bloom a second time. They are the vigorous varieties for 
general use. It is difficult to say of this class of Roses *'Here is a Ust 
of the best twelve." Someone will surely remark: "Why, he does not 
even know the best variety of them all." Nevertheless, we all agree 
that Frau Karl Druschki is the finest white. The buds are handsome 
and it seems to bloom for a longer season than most. If you leave out 
CHo from your planting you would miss a very beautiful flesh pink. 
Another, and a free bloomer, is INIrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford. A 
bright cherry red, a fme and rather new Rose, which is always suc- 
cessful, is Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau; perhaps an improvement 
upon Uhich Rrunner. Prince Camille de Rohan and Hugh Dickson 
are both deep velvety crunsons. Paul Neyron is the largest deep 
pink variety, frequently criticized for being too coarse and large. 
The Jack Rose, or, as it is called in the catalogs, General Jacque- 
minot, does well everwhere; it is a brilHant scarlet crimson. Another 
excellent strong grower and a deep scarlet is J. R. Clark. A very sweet 
and perfectly formed crimson carmine is the variety Captain Hay ward. 
Mme. Masson is a Hybrid Perpetual which produces blooms at in- 
tervals during Summer and Fall. It is a sweet-scented crimson. Cap- 
tain Christy bears a full flower which is tinted white and pale blush. 
Magna Charta is always admired for its vigor of growth and its bright, 
rosy pink flowers, which possess great substance. 

Perxetiana. a group of Roses of recent interest has been de- 
veloped by crossing Harrison's YeUow with other types. The result 
is a group of yeUowish Roses known as Pernetiana Roses, from their 
introducer, Pernet. Two deep yeUow varieties of great beauty are 
Soleil d'Or and Rayon d'Or. 

Moss Rose. The Moss Rose, with its bud encircled by a dehcate 
mossy covering, holds a strong attraction for all. It is surprising that 
the interesting variety. Hat of Napoleon, is not more planted. In 
France it is caUed Chapeau de Napoleon. It is mossier than others. 
The large, pure white buds of Rlanche Moreau are classical examples 
of the Moss Rose. The pink Crested Moss and the bright red Henry 
Martin are also splendid varieties. 

Polyanthas 

The Polyanthas are the Raby Ramblers. How useful they are for 
low beds or when used as a sort of hedge in an intimate area. The 
common variety is Raby Rambler, or Mme. N. Levavasseur, but 
there are many superior sorts, such as Triomphe Orleanais and Erna 
Teschendorff*, of this color. In pink Clothilde Soupert and Mrs. 
Cutbush are the best. Catherine Zeimet is the standard white. 



CHAPTER VI 



Hardy Perennials for the Permanent 

Garden 

Combinations of Perennials — Considerations for a Perennial 
Border — Situation of Border — Preparation of Soil — Planting — 
Spring Planting — Autumn Planting — Cultivation — Staking — 
Removal of Old Flowers and Seed Pods — Necessity for Replant- 
ing — List of Indispensable Hardy Perennials — General Selection 
of Hardy Flowers — Medium Tall Perennials — Dwarf Perennials — 
Plans for Perennial Borders 

BY hardy plants we mean those perennial herbaceous plants 
which will live a number of years and will stand the cold in the 
Northern regions. We use the word * 'herbaceous" to contrast 
them with shrubs and trees, for it means that they die down to the soil 
each year. Their growth is soft, not woody. 

It may be asked why we talk so much about the proper care of this 
or that perennial when on the whole the commonest ones merely need a 
medium good soil and their competitors, the weeds, removed. The reply 
is that we should not be content with Peonies, Phlox, or Iris unless they 
are grown to perfection, or unless we have the finest varieties. 

We are interested in a particular flower often because it seems to 
possess a certain shape, color, or thrifty habit, which we admire. Our 
interest broadens when we prefer to get a great many varieties of the 
same flower. Finally, we are even interested in its botanical relatives. 
It is then that we become * 'cranks" and thoroughly know and truly 
enjoy a chosen favorite. 

Perennials are adapted to such a range of soils and climates that 
we can surely find something beautiful to suit our situation exactly. 
If our land is very rocky and shallow we must govern our selection of 
perennials accordingly, and we can follow nature quite closely in 
choosing the sort of plants to use. 

Each garden should be our own, and should express our likes in color 
and combination, but we must be governed by good taste, with the posses- 
sion of which some are born, while by others it must be acquired. The 
observations of others often make us able to choose wisely for ourselves. 

Combinations of Perennials 

A planting of dehcate pink Hollyhocks, in front of which we place 
a good clump of white Phlox, is to be much commended. Similarly, 
the Phlox will combine nicely with Delpliinium, 

75 



76 



GARDEN GUIDE 



A bed of Peonies, in which have been planted some Lilium specio- 
sum, rubrum and album, is good; the Peonies will have finished flower- 
ing before the Lihes begin. 

Huge beds of German Iris of one variety are shown by themselves, 
but since they are out of bloom before July 1st it is well to have some- 
thing to maintain the beauty. A few attractive shrubs are then 
useful. Especially decorative are Viburnum Opulus and some of the 
Honeysuckles which produce ornamental berries. 

Coreopsis lanceolata and a deep violet blue Delphinium make 

an excellent contrast. 

Another yellow and blue 
combination is Speedwell 
(Veronica spicata) with Even- 
ing Primrose (CEnothera mis- 
souriensis) . The slender spikes 
of the Speedwell contrast nice- 
ly with the large, brilhant yel- 
low flowers of the Evening 
Primrose. 

Probably no flower of the 
Autumn is so graceful and 
welcome as the lovely Japanese 
Anemone. Excellent white and 
pink varieties are available. 
As they make no efi*ect till 
mid-September they are best 
combined with a tall, ornamen- 
tal grass which will give a good 
background. 

The large group of perennial 
Asters, or Michaelmas Daisies, 
should not be forgotten; they 
are the charm of the real late 
Fall garden. Planted at the 
rear of borders they make an 
exceUent foliage background for the earlier flowering plants. 
Especially noteworthy is the Aster ptarmicoides, a very erect, 
strong-growing white species which blooms a trifle earlier than some 
of the others. A truly beautiful Ught blue is the Beauty of 
Golwall and a good pink is A. Novi-Belgii St. Egwin. A very late 
species, five to six feet tall, is A. tataricus; it possesses excel- 
lent clean fohage and bluish violet flowers. One of the largest 
flowering sorts is A. grandiflorus. 




Long borders of hardy flowers growing freely 
and in great luxuriance. The arch in the garden 
wall focuses the view. No straight trim edges, 
yet there is abundant room to walk. These 
borders run right up to the dwelling house 



HARDY FLOWERS 



77 



The Larkspurs and Monkshoods (Aconitum) are planted to 
advantage in conjunction with Madonna Lilies (Lilium candidum). 
Spring bulbs are often combined with a few Adonis amurensis, a very 
pretty little yellow-flowering plant with finely cut leaves. 

Under trees where grass will not grow, plant some Ajuga 
reptans. Vinca minor, called variously Myrtle and Periwinkle, is 
very useful as it spreads rapidly, is evergreen and bears pretty blue 
flowers. 

In every home yard there is a certain small area, between perhaps 
the walk and the wall, which it would be advantageous to have filled 
nicely with plants; such an area is nicely planted to Bishop's Weed 
(yEgepodium). This plant has green and white variegated leaves and 
thrives in any soil. It is rapid growing, but only attains a height of 
twelve inches. 

Excellent contrast 
combinations can be 
had by the intense 
blue Anchusa italica 
and the Yellow 
Marguerite (Anthe- 
mis tinctoria), plac- 
ing the Anchusa at 
the back. 

Another good 
combination is that 
of German Iris, 
among which is 
planted the Summer 
Hyacinth (Hya- 
cinthus, or Galtonia 
candicans), with its 
long spikes of white 
bells and its broad 
leaves. The bulbs 
of the Summer Hya- 
cinth are placed in 
the soil in the Spring ; 
when they bloom the 
Iris will have finished 
its blooming but will 
furnish a foliage 
base. 




Does not this charming border planting make you 
feel like having one of your own ? 



78 



GARDEN GUIDE 



An cfTective use of the blue Aquilcgia, or Columbine, is to place 
a number of these plants at the base of a yellow Rose; for example 
Harrisoir.s ^ Vllow, or Persian Yellow. 



Considerations 
for a Perennial 
Border 

We have a great 
many classes of 
perennials, some of 
which are so wild 
and agressive that 
they should only 
be planted among 
the shrubbery. We 
have others which 
are very dainty and 
tender and whose 
growth must be 
carefully watched 
and their special 
needs for protec- 
tion attended to. 

We must scatter 
plants through the 
length of the 
border which will 
bloom throughout 
the season. We 
should, further- 
more, attempt to 
get good color 
combinations. The heights to which the plants will grow should be 
known, otherwise the taller ones may be in front and the more 
dwarf ones in the background. It is always well in an informal 
border to let the back line be somev/hat broken; plants at some points 
are a little shorter. 

Situation of Border 

Choose a southern exposure where it is not in too close proximity 
to large tree roots. It should be somewhat protected from the direct 




Bringing the flower garden up to the house 

Note also the brick path and other architectural features. 



HARDY FLOWERS 



79 



force of the wind, otherwise fragile flowers will not be very lasting. 
Most perennials enjoy a medium light loam. 

Preparation of Soil 

As with annuals, but perhaps more so with perennials, the soil for 
borders should be deeply and thoroughly prepared; two to three feet 
is i)one too deep, for plants must remain in one place for a long time. 
In the case of Peonies it is detrimental to move them often and it is 
frequently two years, and in some soils three years, after moving a 
Peony plant before it blooms normally. Manure and a complete fer- 
tilizer should be well worked into a new border. All perennial borders 
profit by an application of bonemeal, hardwood ashes and sheep manure 
every year or two. Perennial borders which have been flowering year 
after year and to which much manure has continually been added, be- 
come somewhat sour and an application of slaked lime every two years 
is very beneficial. Many of the perennials do not attain their proper 
maturity before the Winter when they have been excessively fertilized 
and forced into continued sappy growth. They then suffer from cold. 
All soils for borders should be loose, so that they can be easily kept 
stirred. Soils are made light or loosened by manure, sand or fine coal 
ashes. Clay soils surely need some such treatment. 

Planting 

A rule which has been given in setting perennials is to put them 
a trifle closer than half their height. For example. Columbine grows 
two feet tall; for good clumps place young plants one foot apart. This 
rule will not apply in subsequent years, for as the plants grow they 
must be thinned out. A good liberal planting is always the better plan. 

Plants should usually be set a little deeper than they were when 
growing in the nursery. Care must be exercised not to bury them too 
deeply, however, for some perennials, as Violets and German Iris, are 
almost surface creepers. In placing the perennials in the soil, spread the 
roots symmetrically ; do not wad them and cram them into a little hole. 

Spring Planting 

The planting of perennials is best done in Spring when the tops 
aie just about to start into growth. There is danger in planting when 
the soil is too moist, especially in clayey soils, which if they become 
caked are difficult to pulverize during the whole growing season. 



GARDEN GUIDE 



HARDY FLOWERS 



81 



Autumn Planting 

In the Autumn most perennials can be transplanted successfully 
if set out in time so that their roots get established before cold weather. 
If perennials must be moved in full growth they should always be cut 
back; especially is this the case when much soil is removed from the 
roots. AH newly set stock should be watered. There is usually less 
work in Autumn than in the Spring, hence this season is often preferred 
for planting. 

Cultivation 

Through the growing season the surface soil should be loosened so 
that air may enter in order to encourage root action, as well as to con- 
serve the moisture, and keep the weeds in check. Under the heading 
of * 'Lawns" we have mentioned the value of lawn clippings as a Sum- 
mer mulch to conserve moisture. We very strongly recommend well 
decayed stable manure and leaf mold, where these are obtainable. 

Watering 

Watering, although beneficial, is less necessary if the soil is always 
kept loose. In dry seasons water may be applied, using plenty at one time. 
Little drippings of water are bad for all plants, for such a method of 
watering only destroys the surface looseness. Syringing the foliage is 
beneficial; in many cases it serves to keep insects in check if done 
vigorously. Wherever possible, water pipes should be laid with faucets 
at regular intervals for use in the garden. 

Staking 

Many of the perennials will become tall and some support will be 
necessary. Do not make it conspicuous. Paint the stake green and tie 
with green cord or raffia, but do not use an old mop handle nor tie with 
brilliant calico. A light, but long stake placed at the center of the 
plant is effective. Twiggy branches of trees may also be used. In that 
case scarcely any tying is needed. Let the stakes be placed early; 
when the plants have made a great growth they cannot be effectively 
supported, so that a natural appearance is lost. The whole beauty of a 
garden is frequently marred by the absence of stakes or a poor method 
of staking. 

Removal of Old Flowers and Seed Pods 

All old flowers, seed pods and dead leaves should be removed from 
time to time. They should be burned. Old flowers harbor thrips, a 



S2 



GARDEN GUIDE 



very minute insect which is usually found in the heart of a Rose bloom, 
they cause a shabby appearance of the petalage. Seed production is a 
most debilitating process ; the plant therefore should be prevented from 
doing this excessive labor. When the old flowers are picked the 
energies are often turned to a second crop of bloom. Many dead leaves 
are diseased and are a menace to the other plants. Resides this, old 
flowers, dead leaves and seed pods give an air of untidiness to the 
garden. 

The Propagation of Perennials is discussed in a separate chapter, 
"Plant Propagation," which see. 



Some of the later blooming perennials, especially Helianthus, 
Rudbeckia, Asters, Roltonia, Physostegia, Achillea, need to be re- 
planted or parts of them removed each year. Five to eight shoots of 
these perennials can be left and the rest dug up and moved to another 
place. This is the only way to keep some of the^ weedier growlers in 
subjection. Perennials which bloom from crowns in the early Spring 
are usually impatient of being moved often, examples being Rleeding 
Heart, Oriental Poppy, Dictamnus, Red Hot Poker and Peony. Iris 
reproduces rapidly and is best divided every two or three years ; Phlox 
every three or four years and Peony only every three to five years. 
Many perennials, as Delphinium and Columbine, increase by a gradual 
enlargement of the crown. 



A. WOMAN'S, HARDY GARDEN, by Helena Rutherford Ely. With 
illu strati on s from pholographs by Prof. C. F. Chandler. Mrs. Ely gives 
co-pious details of the cost of 'plants, the exact dales of planting, the number 
of plants required in a given space for beauty of effect and advantage to free 
growth, the protection needed from sun and frost, etc. Illustrated, Cloth, 
12mo. SI. 00 postpaid. 




For a worthy book on hardy flowers, 
we reccommend 



Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide. 



HARDY FLOWERS 83 

LIST OF THIRTY INDISPENSABLE HARDY 
PERENNIALS 

Judged from hardiness, color, profusion of bloom or particular seasonal value. 

1. TEN TALL. (Above 33^ feet talL) 

Althea rosea (Hollyhock). Great range of colors. 
Anchusa italica, Dropmore variety (Italian Borage). Deepest blue. 
Aster. Tall species (not China Aster), often called Michaelmas Daisies. 
Delphinium. Tall, deep blues. 

Digitalis purpurea, var. gloxiniaeflora. Excellent foliage. 
Echinops ruthenicus, or Ritro (Globe Thistle). 

Helianthus decapetalus, var. multiflorus. Forms huge clumps, excellent for screening. 
Rudbeckia laciniata, var. Golden Glow. Golden yellow. 
Thalictrum aquilegifolia. Feathery flowers, lilac in color. 
Yucca flaccida. Tall spikes of white, bell-shaped flowers. 

2. TEN MEDIUM TALL. (Between lH-3>i feet talL) 
Anemone japonica. Chosen as best late white flower. 
Aquilegia chrysantha. Long-spurred, golden yellow Columbine. 
Campanula persicifolia. Blue or white, erect, clean growth, handsome spikes. 
Delphinium Belladonna. Indispensable, medium light blue. 

Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William). Various colors, fragrant. 
Gypsophila paniculata. Fine airy flower, white, graceful. 
Iris germanica pallida dalmatica. Excellent, light blue. 
Papaver orientale. Gorgeous scarlet and orange flowers. 
Peony, var. Festiva maxima. White, with dash of red at center. 
Phlox suffruticosa Miss Lingard. Pure taffy white flower. 

3. TEN DWARF. (Below VA feet tall.) 

Arabis alpina. One of best early white perennials. 

Dianthus plumarius (Clove Pink). White to purple, very fragrant. 

Geum coccineum (Avens). A very clear scarlet; likes sun. 

Heuchera sanguinea (Coral Bells). Long, graceful spikes of white or scarlet bells. 
Iberis semperflorens. (Perennial Candytuft); excellent white. 
Iris pumila (Dwarf Iris). Good yellows, purples and whites. 
Phlox subulata (Moss Pink). Excellent Spring bloom, lavender pink. 
Primula polyantha and veris (Spring Cowslip). Excellent fresh colors. 
Sedum spectabile (Showy Sedum). Fleshy leaves, rose to crimson flowers. 
Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta Daisy). Though it does not succeed well every- 
where, it is an excellent improved white Daisy. 

GENERAL SELECTION OF HARDY FLOWERS 

t For cutting. * Shade enduring. °For rock garden. JFor moist ground. 

TALL PERENNIALS (Above 3^ feet) 

^tt^-^^^^^^^^^^P^"^^^^ , , . * °tDigitalis ambigua (Larger Ydlow Fox- 

* XAconitum autumnale (Autumn Aeon- glove). 



ite). 



t Echinops ruthenicus (Globe Thistle). 



* fAconitum Fischeri (Monk's-hood). a.tt ^^ ^ 4. i /-d • 1 o 
*°tAconitum lycoctonum (Wolf's-bane). fHelianthus decapetalus (Perennial Sun- 

tAlthea rosea (Hollyhock). 4.TTr r /xt , a 

, . 1^ tHelianthus orgyalis (Narrow-leaved 

* jAnchusa italica Dropmore (Italian Sunflower). 

Borage Alkanet). . tfHelianthus tiiberosa (Jerusalem Arti- 

♦"Aruncus Sylvester (Goat's Beard). choke). 

I numerous species. * "fLupinus polyphyllus (Lupin) . 

* Bocconia cordata (Plume Poppy). +,-r, ju 1 • 1 • • i. u 

tBoltonia asteroides (False Chamomile) JfRudbeckia laciniata. var. Golden Glow. 

''Boltonia latisquama. JSenecio clivorum. 

**Campanula pyramidalis (Chimney J**'iThalictrum aquilegifolia (Meadow 

Campanula). Rue). 

J***Cimicifuga racemosa (Bugbane). "fTritoma Pfitzeri, properly called 

"tDelphinium hybrids. Kniphofia aloides (Red Hot Poker). 

*°tDigitalis purpurea, var. gloxiniaeflora fValeriana officinalis (Valerian). 

(Foxglove). "fYucca faccida (Bayonet Plant). 



84 



GARDEN GUIDE 



MEDIUM TALL P 

*t Achillea Ptarmica (Sneezewort) . 
"tAconitum Napellus (Monk's-hood). 
'tAnthemis tinctoria Kelwayi (Chamo- 
mile). 

***t Anemone japonica (Japanese Anem- 
one). 

* "tAquilegia (Columbine), 

* "fAquilegia canadensis. 

* "fAquilegia chrysantha. 

* ^fAquilegia caerulea. 

* "tAquilegia sibirica 

* **tAquilegia vulgaris. 
t°tAsclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed). 

"tAster ptarmicoides (Frost Weed). 
"tBaptisia australis (False Indigo). 

tCampanula glomerata. 

fCampanula Medium (Canterbury 
Bells). 

tCampanula Medium, var. Calycan- 

thema (Cups and Saucers). 
"tCampanula persicifolia (Peach-leaved 

Campanula). 
"tCampanula Trachelium (Throatwort) . 

°Callirhoe involucrata (Poppy Mallow). 
"tCentaurea dealbata (Cornflower). 
"tCentaurea dealbata macrocephala 

(Knapweed). 
"tCentaurea montana (Mountain Bluet). 
"tCentranthus ruber (Red Valerian). 
"tChrysanthemum coccineum (Pyreth- 

rum). 

"tChrysanthemum Parthenium (Fever- 
few). 

"tClematis Davidiana. 
"tClematis recta. 

"fCoreopsis lanceolata grandiflora (Tick- 
seed). 

"Coreopsis verticillata (Narrow-leaved 
Tickseed). 
*"Corydalis nobilis. 
tDelphinium Belladonna (Larkspur). 
"tDianthus barbatus (Sweet William). 
"Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart). 
*°Dictamnus Fraxinella albus (Gas 
Plant). 

"tDiniorphotheca aurantiaca (Cape 
Marigold). 

* "Dracocephalum moldavicum (Molda- 
vian Balm). 

t*"Doronicum excelsum (Leopard's 
Bane). 

* **t Echinacea (Rudbeckia) purpurea (Pur- 
ple Coneflower). 
t "tEpilobium angustifolium (Fire Weed). 
"Erigeron speciosus (Fleabane). 
"tEryngium planum (Sea Holly). 
"tEryngium amethystinum (Sea Holly) . 
t°Eupatorium purpureum (Joe Pye 
Weed). 

"Eupatorium perforatum (Boneset). 
^"tEuphorbia corollata (Flowering 
Spurge). 

3: "tFilipendula hexapetala (Meadow 
Sweet) . 

"tGaillardia aristata (Blanket Flower) 
"tGalega officinalis (Goat's Rue). 



lENNIALS (lH-31^ feet) 

*°tGalium boreale (Northern Bedstraw). 

"fC^ypsophila acutifolia (Baby's Breath). 

"tGypsophila paniculata (Baby's Breath) 
J°tHelenium autumnale (Sneezeweed) . 

"fHelenium (Dugaldia) Hoopesii (Sneeze- 
weed) . 

'tHelianthus Maximiliani (Maximilian 

Sunflower) . 
"tHelianthus mollis (Downy Sunflower). 
"Hemerocallis aurantiaca (Orange Day 

Lily). 

"Hemerocallis flava (Lemon Lily). 
"Hemerocallis fuiva (Day Lily). 
"Hemerocallis Thunbergii. 
tHesperis matronalis (Sweet Rocket). 
*tlris germanica (German Iris), 
"tiris Kaempferi (Japanese Iris), 
"tins sibirica (Siberian Iris). 
"tLiatris pycnostachya (Blazing Star), 
t*"tLobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flowei) 
i*°tLobelia syphilitica (Blue Lobelia). 
"tLychnis chalcedonica (Maltese Cros-)- 
t "tLysimachia clethroides (Pepperbush 
Loosestrife). 
JtLysimachia punctata (Dotted Loose- 
strife). 

ttLysimachia vulgaris (Common Loose- 
strife). 

t°tLythrum Salicaria roseum superbum 
(Purple Loosestrife). 
J* "tMertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebells) . 

i°tMonarda didyma (Beebalm). 
J*°tCEnothera missouriensis (Missouri 
Evening Primrose). 
"tCEnothera speciosa (Evening Primrose). 
tPaeonia albiflora. 
tPaeonia officinalis. 
tPaeonia tenuifolia. 
fPapaver orientale (Oriental Poppy). 
'^tPentstemon barbatus Torreyi. 
"tPentstemon gloxinioides. 
"*Phlox maculata. , 
"tPhlox paniculata (Hardy Phlox). 
"tPhlox suffruticosa. 
"tPhysostegia virginiana (Obedient 
Plant). 

"tPlatycodon grandiflorum (Chinese 

Balloon Flower), 
i "Rheum palmatum var. atro sanguin- 

eum (Ornarnental Rhubarb). 
"tSalvia azurea (Blue Sage). 
"tSalvia pratensis (Common Meadow 

Sage). 

"tScabiosa caucasica (Scabious). 
°tSidalcea Candida. 
t*°Smilacina racemosa (Solomon Seal). 
"tSolidago sp. (Golden Rod). 
"Spiraea. 

"tThalictrum adiantifolium (Meadow 
Rue). 

"tThalictrum dipterocarpum. 
"tThermopsis caroliniana. 
t "Tradescantia virginiana (Spiderwort) . 
"tVeronica longifolia var. subsessilis 

(Speedwell). 
"tVeronica spicata (Spiked Speedwell). 



HARDY FLOWERS 



85 



LIST OF DWARF PERENI 

* "Adonis aestivalis (Pheasant's Eye). 
♦'Adonis vernalis (Spring Adonis). 

J* "iEgopodium Podograria (Gout Weed). 
♦"Ajuga reptans. (Bugle). 
*'Ajuga genevensis (Bugle). 
"Alyssum rostratum (Gold Dust). 
"Alyssum saxatile (Gold Dust). 
♦"Arabis albida (Rock Cress). 
♦"Arabis alpina (Rock Cress). 
♦"Armeria maritima (Sea Thrift). 
♦"Armeria formosa (Sea Thrift). 
**tAsperula odorata (Sweet Woodruff). 
♦"Astrantia carniolica (Masterwort). 
"Aubrietia deltoidea (Purple Rock 
Cress) . 

* 'fCampanula rotundifolia (Harebell). 
"Campanula carpatica ((Carpathian 
Harebell). 

"fCentaurea nigra (Knap Weed or Hard- 
head) . 

* "Cerastium tomentosum (Snow-in-Sum- 

mer). 

"fChrysanthemum arcticum. 
"fChrysanthemum maximum (Shasta 
Daisy) . 

* "Claytonia virginica (Spring Beauty). 

"Coronilla varia (Crown Vetch). 
♦"Dianthus deltoides (Maiden Pink). 
*°Dianthus latifolius (Pink). 
*°tDianthus plumarius (Clove Pink). 
* "Dicentra eximia (Wild Bleeding Heart). 
♦"Dicentra formosa (Chinese Bleeding 
Heart). 

♦"Dicentra cucularia (Dutchman's 
Breeches). 
t-***tEpiniedium alpinum. 
* tEpimedium pinnatum. 
t**'Funkia subcordata. 
♦"Gentiana Andrewsii (Closed Gentian). 

* "Geranium sanguineum (Crane's Bill). 
"tGeum coccineum (Avens). 
"fHelenium autumnale pumilum (Sneeze- 
weed) . 

♦"fHelleborus niger (Christmas Rose). 
***tHepatica triloba (Mayflower). 



iJLS. (Less than 1}^ feet.) 

* 'fHepatica acutiloba (Mayflower) . 
*"tHeuchera sanguinea (Coral Bells). 

"flberis semperflorens (Perennial Candy- 
tuft). 

"flncarvillea Delavayi. 
'flris cristata, pumila, and verna (Dwarf 
Iris).- 

"tLychnis coronaria (Mullein Pink). 

"Opuntia vulgaris (Prickly Pear). 
"fPapaver nudicaule (Iceland Poppy). 
"Phlox Arendsii. 
t "fPhlox divaricata (Wild Sweet William). 
J*"tPhlox subulata (Moss Pink). 

"fPlumbago Larpentae (Lead Plant). 
J*"tPodophyllum peltatum (May Apple). 
*"Polemonium cserulea (Jacob's Ladder). 
"tPotentilla Miss Willmott. 
$**tPrimula japonica. 
"fPrimula polyantha. 
"fPrimula vulgaris. 
*"Pulmonaria saccharata (Lungwort). 

* "fRanunculus aconitifolius fl, pi. (Double 

Buttercup). 

"Sagina glabra (Pearlwort). 
"fSaxifraga pyramidalis (Saxifrage). 
t^'tSedum spectabile (Showy sedum). 

* "Sempervivum arachnoideum (Spider- 

web Houseleek). 

* "Sempervivum Brownii. 

* "Sempervivum pyrenaicum. 

* "Sempervivum tectorum (Old Man and 

Woman). 

*"tStatice latifolia (Sea Lavender). 
"fStokesia cyanea (Stokes' Aster). 
t*°tTrillium. grandifiorum (Wake Robin). 

*"tTrillium sessile. 

*"tTrillium erectum (Red Trillium). 
t*"tTrollius asiaticus (Globe Flower). 
j*"tTrollius europaeus. 
j*"tTrollius excelsior. 
j*"tTrollius giganteus). 

* "Tunica (Petrohagia) Saxifraga. 
"tVeronica incana. 



CO5M0S 



5NAPDTIA<50N 



IN.ICOT//^N/\ 



POPPY / \ 

/ SAi-plG-IOSSiS W 
^^I> > VARIOUS COiPRS j 5C\hlQ5\^ \L\e^T ^OLOJ^S^.-'- 

\ / P'f^'v -'^Z ^-^^ ^- 

— ''T;=.r i^--- — r ntt/TJSr ALY5SUM >, ~,3ni?^',. 

^ " ^ p/N*^ 



A scheme for a border of Annual Flowers. This bed is approximately 

^ ft, by 20 ft. 



Plans for Perennial Borders of 




Each sketch represents the corner of a perennial border at the margin of the lawn. 
Those plants at the back are usually taller, those at the front are more dwarf. 
Each section is arranged to be approximately three to four feet wide. The larger 

86 



Attractive Color Combinations 




VERONICA LONOlfoUA 
j SUB5£5S^LIS a-9 

IRIS ASIATICA y HEL£Nli/M AUTONNALE^ LUPINUS POLYPHYLLUv^ \CORtOP5lS LANOtOLATA liRANOirtOSAy 

V / /' 

corners are 25 feet on one side and 10 or 15 on the other. The numbers accom- 
panyinj^ the plant names refei to the months during which the plants bloom; 
thus 6-9 means that the plants are flowering usually from June until September 

87 



CHAPTER VII 



Annuals and Biennials 

Care in Purchasing Seed — Sowing — Transplanting — Time to Sow 
Out-of-Doors — Preparation of Soil — Keeping Seed Pods Removed 
— Vines — Combinations of Annuals — Everlasting Flowers — 
Annuals Useful for Cut Flowers — Lesser Known Annuals — 
Annuals for Edging Beds of Other Plants — FoUage Annuals — 
Biennials — Germination Table 

A NNUALS are plants the seed of which must be sown each year. 
Some plants, although they live more than one year, are not ^t 
their best after the first year and should be considered as annuals. 
The Pansy is such a plant; it is perennial, but is best when sown each 
year. Annuals are not permanent, it is true, but they fill a great need 
for profusion of bloom for garden effect. In few ways can a few cents 
be spent so profitably as in the purchase of a package of seeds of an- 
nuals. They bloom so quickly and make such excellent fillers for the 
bare spots between our shrubs and other perennial plants that they are 
truly indispensable. For cut flowers they are unexcelled; sorts may be 
easily chosen with long, strong stems and excellent keeping qualities, 
together with the daintest or gayest colors. They commend them- 
selves to planting near rented houses where investments for plants 
would otherwise be somewhat wasted. 

For pot culture upon porches and areas where little space is avail- 
able the annual fits in nicely. In window boxes the dwarf, compact 
plants are just as useful as the tall climbers. The annual vines are 
unrivaled in their ability quickly to cover unsightly buildings or rough 
ground, as well as serving for shade upon rustic arbors and porches. 

Care in Purchasing Seed 

The buying of flower seeds is an investment to be undertaken 
with unusual discretion. Seeds should be bought only from reliable 
dealers who handle, in the right way, seeds procured from the best 
plants, and those bearing the finest flowers. The matter of getting 
good seed must depend entirely upon our confidence in the dealer. 
The wise gardener avoids wasting his ground space by sowing seeds 
which have lain about grocery stores for any length of time. 

Sowing 

Many annuals, such as Petunia, Phlox, Verbena, ornamental To- 
bacco, China Asters, Snapdragon, Cosmos, Sweet Alyssum, Pansy, 
88 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 



89 



annual Larkspur, Salpiglossis, Scarlet Sage. Swan River Daisy and 
Torenia, benefit by being sown indoors in order to give them a growing 
start before placing in open soil. 

March is the best time to sow. This necessitates procuring a good 
loam in the Autumn and storing it in the basement. The soil need not 
be rich, but it should be loose, which can be accomplished by the ad- 
dition of well-rotted manure, or if this is not available, sifted coal 
ashes or sand will be useful. This soil should not be allowed to become 
dry in the basement, but should be moistened every month or oftener, 
according to its condition. It must not be kept too wet, otherwise it 
will sour badly. 

Seed must always be sown thinly ; thick sowing is a general cause 
of failure with annuals. Some seeds, as Petunia, Verbena, ornamental 
Tobacco, Salpiglossis and Portulaca, are very minute, and should not 
be covered with soil. A newspaper and a pane of glass placed over the 
pot or box will retain the moisture and keep the sunlight from the 
seed. When the seed is not covered, the soil should be thoroughly 
watered before sowing. Larger seeds are best sown in rows and should 
be covered with soil about three times their diameter. To keep out 
the light and prevent the pots from drying, the use of newspaper over 
the pots is excellent. As soon as the seedhngs get above the soil, they 
should be given the best light conditions, otherwise they will become 
very spindling and weak. Good light and rather cool conditions in- 
doors, together with thorough but not too frequent watering, should 
produce stocky plants. 

Excepting such as Mignonette, Sweet Sultan, Love-in-a-Mist, 
Heliotrope, and the Poppy -like plants, as Eschscholtzia, Argemone and 
Papaver, most annuals can be successfully transplanted. When seeds 
of these latter are sown they are best placed in very small pots, using 
only two or three seeds in a pot. 

Transplanting 

Seedlings may be transplanted when very small; in fact, after the 
appearance of several leaves, if the plants are becoming crowded, they 
should be transplanted into boxes about three inches deep, setting them 
several inches apart each way. The earliness of sowing the seed will 
govern the amount and need for transplanting. Transplanting is 
beneficial to many seedlings because it causes the root tips to branch, 
making a well balanced root system. 

Time to Sow Out-of-Doors 

When the soil is warmed a little in the Spring most annuals can be 
sown directly in the open soil; but a few are tender, that is, they will 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 



91 



stand very little cold and should never be planted until all danger of frost 
is past. Among these are: Amaranth, Browalha, Celosia, Torenia, 
California Poppy, Gourds, Butterfly Flower. These are all tender. 

Preparation of Soil 

The soil should not merely be loosened by a rake, but if good 
flowers are wanted, thorough preparation should be given and decayed 
manure added. After many of the annuals have grown two or three 
leaves tall, they will benefit by being pinched back ; in other words, the 
main shoot should be cut out. This will cause the plants to become 
branchy and bear three times as many flowers. Especially successful 
is pinching such plants as Stock, Nemophila, Butterfly Flower, Pe- 
tunia, Baby's Breath, annual Chrysanthemums, Clarkia, Cosmos, 
Godetia, Salpiglossis, Swan River Daisy and Calliopsis. 

Keeping Seed Pods Removed 

Annuals soon accomplish their growth and hastily decline if their 
seed pods are not carefully removed. Many of them may continue to 
bloom throughout the Sunmier if careful attention is given this detail. 

Vines 

The annual vines form an important garden adjunct. The most 
important plant in this class is the Sweet Pea {See Contents) perhaps; 
the next in value is the Nasturtium, which not only has excellent foli- 
age, but at the same time is without a competitor for profusion and 
elegance of bloom. The Morning Glory {See Contents) would be more 
valued but for the fact that inferior varieties are too often grown. 
Excellent giant forms, clear blue in color, are on the markets, which for 
a morning efl'ect upon the garden fence are very attractive. The Cobaea 
is really a tender perennial, but does best sown in pots and started in- 
doors each year. The seeds are flat and should be planted edgewise. 
The flowers are greenish purple and followed by attractive pods. The 
plants make a phenomenal growth. Another vine with inflated pods is 
the Balloon Vine. Although the flowers are inconspicuous, the balloons 
are borne very freely. The Cypress Vine and the Cardinal Climber 
both possess deep red flowers and fine foliage. The seeds of both are 
rather diflicult to start, but if those of the Cypress Vine are scalded 
there should be little difficulty. The familiar Hop, Scarlet Bean and 
Gourds should not be forgotten. If one prefers something rather extra- 
ordinary and unique, the Canary Bird Vine (Tropaeolum peregrinum) 
with its peculiar yellow fringed flowers and delicate foliage, should be 
grown. 



92 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Combinations of Annuals 

It is hardly ever advisable to buy mixed colors of flowers; it is 
much better to buy packages of good separate colors and mix them. 
Nothing is prettier than huge masses of one color. Bicolor or varie- 
gated flowers are to be avoided, because they often give a dull appear- 
ance as seen in beds. 

Let us make a few recommendations for combinations of annuals 
or ways in which they give the best eff'ects: 




Foxgloves (Digitalis) are hardy biennials; they seed and 
reproduce themselves freely — See also page 116 



In making beds for annuals they should not be too wide; if against 
a fence, four or five feet, and if in the open, six or seven feet, is sufiicient; 
otherwise, they cannot be handled easily either for picking the flowers 
or for cultivating and weeding. Few annuals can be sown so that they 
are exactly the proper distance apart when they bloom. They must, 
therefore, be thinned. According to the variety they aU need from six 
to eighteen inches between plants. Poppy beds are always too thickly 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 



93 



planted, for Poppy seed is very fine and difficult to sow properly. They 

must be thinned if the Poppies are to attain their proper development. 

A bed of blue Bachelor's Buttons can be nicely edged with Sweet 
Alyssum or Candytuft, both of the latter being white. The Bachelor's But- 
tons will furnish a constant supply of cut flowers. 

Snapdragon, of which a dehcate pink variety, perhaps, is chosen, will 
be excellent combined with Dusty Miller. 

Another bed will be showy, composed of California Poppies planted in 
front of the taller pot Marigolds. This will be in tones of orange-yellow. 

Entire beds, perhaps five by ten feet, of Verbenas, planted 12 inches 
apart each way, will prove very efi'ective. 

Grow a fine lot of young Drummondii Phlox plants, a white variety, 
and after filling a bed with them placed eight inches apart, plant bulbs of 
the pink variety America Gladiolus between the plants. 

Into your bed of Pansies transplant a few of the dainty blue BrowaUia 
demissa; this will cast a very light and airy eff'ect over the whole bed. 

On some narrow strip, where there is little room, try Godetia Bosa- 
mond with its satiny pink flowers by itself. You will be rewarded by a 
very pretty display. 

A huge bed of Nicotiana sylvestris, the ornamental Tobacco, near a 
porch where you can get the great fragrance in the evening, is very satis- 
factory. The Nicotiana self sows and it will be necessary to keep these in 
check. 

In a hot, sunbeaten, dry place, sow the Portulaca or Sunplant. The 
metaUic seeds self sow and the plant will come up year after year. This is 
the old-fashioned "Seven Sisters" plant which some persons fancy bears 
seven colored blooms on one plant. 

In some pots, to be placed on posts or on a wall, plant a few of the 
trailing Lobelias (Lobeha eriuus) or a few Nasturtiums. 

In a corner where you want something out of the ordinary, plant a 
few seeds of the Giant Spider plant (Cleome). The flowers are rosy crim- 
son, and possess long filaments and pistils followed by long, slender seed 
pods. They are strong, attractive, but a trifle weedy. 

Edge a bed of Cannas or other tall plants with Fountain Grass (Penni- 
setum). 

To combine with bouquets, grow a little clump of Cloud Grass (Agros- 
tis nebulosa). 

For the Sweet Pea bouquets do not neglect planting some Baby's 
Breath (Gypsophila elegans). This will look weU grown in a bed with an- 
nual Larkspurs or with Stocks. Baby's Breath must be planted several 
times during the season if a continuous supply is needed. 

Some persons admire smaU hedges of Summer Cypress, or Kochia, 
but this plant turns a very bad bluish-crimson color in Autumn — a color 
which harmonizes with nothing. 

When the season does not prove too moist, or when planted upon 
sandy soils, the dwarf or cupid Sweet Peas are excellent. They bear rather 
long stems and very good flowers. 

No annual flower blooms for so long a time as the Petunia. If the 
colors can be selected before setting the plants into the bed, the results will 



94 



GARDEN GUIDE 



be better. It will be unnecessary to combine them with anything else, as 
they are all-sufficient, and are as useful for beds two feet square as for huge 
borders a hundred feet long and four w ide. 

Where a dainty blue edging plant is wanted, use Swan River Daisy, 
(Brachycome) , placing the plants about six inches apart. 

If you must neglect your garden, but want a good show of color, try 
huge beds of Zinnias or Marigolds. 

If you wonder what to use for edging any bed, decide to use Sweet 
Alyssum ; it is a most adaptable border plant. When it appears to be nearly 
through blooming, cut it back and it will start up again. 

Everlasting Flowers 

It is always interesting to grow a few everlasting or **straw" 
flow ers. If they are picked in their proper stages, the leaves removed 
and the blooms himg upside down to dry, they w ill present a pretty 
appearance all Winter. The principal annual specimens are: 

Helichrysum bracteatum (Straw Flower). One of the largest everlasting 
flowers. There are many shades of yeUow and red. They grow two 
to three feet tall and need to be planted one foot apart if they are to 
develop properly. They should be picked before they are fully open. 

IIelipterum roseum. Bears dainty white and rosy pink flowers. They 
should be cut when quite in bud; they open a little after being picked, 
otherwise the centers are visible and being brown give a shabby 
appearance to the otherwise attractive flower. It is pretty for the 
border, aside from its being good for the Winter bouquet. 

IIelipterum Manglesii (Rhodanthe) (Swan River Everlasting). The 
flowers are pink and white; the stems are very graceful. 

IIelipterum Humboldtianum. Bears a yellow flower, smaller than 
others but numerous. 

GoMPHRENA globosa (Globc Amaranth). The straw-like heads resemble 
Clover. The two colors are a crimson and a rather muddy white. 

Xeranthemum annuum (Everlasting or ImmorteUe). Bears rose, purple, 
and white flowers. As a garden subject they retain their bloom from 
early Summer till frost 

Catananche c^rulea. Blue and yellow varieties are available. Some- 
what resembles Bachelor's Buttons. 

Useful for Cut Flowers 

Many of the annuals are useful for cutting because they have long 
stems, good keeping qualities or excellent colors. They commend 
themselves admirably for arrangements in the low bowls w^hich are 
beginning to be used and are of such great value for a proper loose 
display of flowers. 

Acroclinium (See Helipterum roseum in list of Everlasting Flowers). 
African Daisy (See Arctotis). 

ANTiRRmNUM (Snapdragon). This is gaining greatly in its deserved 

popularity. Almost aU the colors are good. 
Amethyst (See Browallia). 

Annual Larkspur appears in superb pink, blues, lavenders and has dainty 
foliage and good keeping qualities. 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 



95 



Arctotis grandis (African Daisy). This is a very handsome Daisy-Uke 
annual, the flowers of which are a bluish white, the under surface being 
rather bluish gray. The buds open nicely after the flowers are cut. 

'Baby's Breath (See Gypsophila). 

xBachelor's Button (See Centaurea). 

Blanket Flower (See Gaillardia). 

^Browallia demissa (Amethyst). A very graceful little blue or white 

annual which is prettily used in bouquets. 
Butterfly Flower (See Schizanthus). 




(Delphinium) 



Calendula officinalis (Pot Marigold). Bear strong, golden orange and 
lemon colored flowers. They will bloom for a long season if the seed 
pods are kept off. 

Candytuft. The varieties are pure white as well as lavender and 

V crimson. They are very useful for all sorts of cut flower purposes. 

Centaurea cyanea (Bachelor's Button). Furnishes some of finest blues. 
Is an excellent keeper when cut. 

ISentaurea imperialis and Americana (Sweet Sultan). Dainty rose, 
light lavender and white thistle-like flowers; long stems; excellent for 
vases and baskets. G. maritima is often called Dusty Miller. 



96 



GARDEN GUIDE 



China Aster. This is perhaps the very best annual for cutting. 

Coreopsis xmcxoRiA, Drummondii (Coreopsis, or CalUopsis). Appears 
in excellent golden and maroon color combinations. The stems are 
long and wiry. 

Corn, Variegated (See Zea, under '*Fohage Annuals"). 

Cosmos. One of best tall annuals, and one of the latest to bloom, is Cos- 
mos. Procure the earliest varieties for Northern planting. 

Dusty Miller. Unexcelled for gray effects. 

Euphorbia (See Poinsettia, under "Lesser Known Annuals"). 

Everlasting (AppHed to HeUchrysum, Helipterum, Xeranthemum and 
some others) . 

FoRGET-iME-NOT. This dainty blue flower has a greater hold upon our 
sentimental admiration than almost any flower except the Rose. 

Fountain Grass (Pennisetum). Dainty, hairy spikes. 

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower). Resplendent in shades of orange and 
scaclet. 

Globe Amaranth (See Gomphrena, under "Everlasting Flowers"). 
GoDETiA. Excellent satiny petals and some very good colors appear. 
Gypsophila (Baby's Breath). Unexcelled for bouquets. The fine, misty, 

white flowers lend to any decoration a grace which cannot be dupHcated 

by any other annual. 
Immortelle (See Xeranthemum, under "Everlasting Flowers"). 
LovE-iN-A-MisT (See Nigella). 

Love-Lies-Bleeding (See Amaranthus, under "Foliage Annuals"). 
Lupines. Free flowering. There are excellent pink, blue and light yellow 
varieties. 

Marigold, African. This flower is rather coarse, but always thrifty. 
Marigold, Pot. (See Calendula). 

Mignonette is indispensable because of its supreme fragrance. The less 

beautiful kinds are apt to be the most fragrant. 
Nasturtium. For brilliancy of color, prolificacy of bloom and novelty of 

form, few flowers can rival the Nasturtium. 
Nigella damascena (Love-in-a-Mist). Excellent fine foHage and pretty 

blue flowers. 

Pansy. It must be borne in mind that the Pansy only grows during the 
cool, early days of Spring or FaD. It must be planted accordingly, 
best when sown in August. 

Papaver Rh^.as (Shirley Poppies). With their silky petalage and good 
• colors, these make good cut flowers if picked when in bud. 

Phlox DRumiONDii (Phlox, Drummond's). The real, briUiant, clear colors 
of this annual Phlox are admirable for small vases. 

Poppies, Shirley (See Papaver Rheeas). 

Rhodanthe (See Helipterum Manglesii, under "Everlasting Flowers"). 

Ribbon Grass (See Phalaris, under "Foliage Annuals"). 

ScABiosA (Scabious). Excellent long stems — good colors lend themselves 

to pretty vase decorations. 
Scabious (See Scabiosa). 

ScHizANTHUS (Butterfly Flower). One of the fairy-looking flowers. Give 

a little shade in the garden. 
Senegio Cineraria, var. candidissimus, also generally known as Dusty 

MiUer. 

Snapdragon (See Antirrhinum). 



ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS 



97 



Squirrel's Tail Grass (See Hordeum, under Foliage Annuals*'). 
Summer Cypress (See Kochia, under '* Foliage Annuals"). 
Straw Flower (See Helichrysum, under "Everlasting Flowers"). 
Sweet Peas. An ideal annual; see Contents for special article. 
Sweet Sultan (See Centaurea imperialis). 

Tar weed (See Madia elegans, under "Lesser Known Annuals"). 
Wishbone Flower (See Torenia, under "Lesser Known Annuals"). 
Youth and Old Age (See Zinnia). 

Zinnia (Youth and Old Age). A universally admired flower because of its 
rich appearance and ease of culture. 

Lesser Known Annuals 

For those who have tried the commonest annuals, a few others of 
interest should be mentioned. Each year the catalogues list a new 
introduction from other countries or a unique series of hybrids. These 
novelties are sometimes excellent, but being expensive and of doubtful 
value for the changed climates and soils, they should be bought only 
as experiments and not planted directly into beds in which a good 
show must be depended upon. 

The plants in the following list are not especially new, but are 
rarely seen in our gardens, although they have a value. 
Alonsoa acutifolia. Attractive coral colored flower; compact plants. 
Anghusa capensis (Cape Alkanet). Very pretty, minute blue flowers, 

but tend to go to seed rapidly. 
Argemone grandiflora (Mexican Prickly Poppy). Foliage spiny; 

flowers yellow. 
Cacalia coccinea (See Emilia)'. 

Cerinthe retort a. a unique annual bearing spotted leaves and yellow 

tubular inverted flowers, tipped with purple. 
DiASCiA Barbers. Bears a rose or orange colored spurred flower. 
Emilia flammea (Cacalia coccinea) (Tassel Flower). An intense scarlet. 

Should be planted at least four inches apart. Self sows. 
Erysimum Perofskianum. One of deepest orange colored annuals. 

Earliest culture. 

Cilia capitata. The light drab flowers are borne in miniature heads. 
Layia elegans. Pretty dwarf yeUow annuals, with flowers about an 
inch in diameter. 

Madia|elegans (Tarweed). Very distinct yeUow flowers and glandular 

heavily scented foliage. 
^ Mentzelia Lindleyi (Bartonia aurea). Yellow flowers. Ptant where 

they are to grow. Fragrant in evening. 
Nemophila insignis. ExceUent pure deep blue. * 
Phacelia campanularia. Bears blue flowers resembling the Canterbury 

Bells. 

PoiNSETTiA heterophylla, or Painted Leaf. Leaves are dark green, 
except the upper, which are bright red at the base. 

Salvia farinacea. Very pretty foliage and almost white flowers. 

Sanvitalia procumbens. a dwarf, compact annual, useful for edging; 
very prolific of blooms. 

ToRENiA Fournieri (Wishbonc Flower). A very pretty blue or white, 
yellow spotted flower. 



98 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Annuals for 

Ageratum 
Annual Phlox 
Calif oRNL\ Poppy 
Baby's Breath 
Calliopsis (Dwarf) 
Candytuft. 
Dwarf Marigold 

(Tagetes signata 

primula) 



Edging Beds of Other Plants 

Dwarf Snapdragon Petunia 
French Marigold 
Lobelia (Lobelia eri- 
nus) 

Madagascar Peri- 
winkle (Vinca ro- 
sea) 

Nasturtium Tom 
Thumb 



Portulaca 
San viT ALIA 
Scarlet Flax 
Swan River Daisy 
Sweet Alyssum 
Verbena 



Foliage Annuals 



RiciNus communis (Castor Oil Bean). One of the tallest, most rampant 
growing annuals. 

Senecio cinerarioides and Centaurea gymnocarpa (Dusty Miller). 

Unexcelled for gray effects. 
PENmsETUM (Fountain Grass). Dainty and graceful hairy spikes. 
A^L^RANTHUS CAUDATUS (Love-Lics -Bleeding) . Foliage deep maroon often. 
Mexican Horned Poppy. The deep green leaves are veined with white. 
Phalaris arundinacea, var. picta (Ribbon Grass). A very useful grass 

for bouquets as well as landscape effect. 
Hordeum jubatum (Squirrel's Tail Grass). Spike resembles a squirrel's 

tail. Adds a very graceful touch to the border or bouquet. 
KocHiA tricophylla (Summer C^^press). Makes a formal cypress-like 

plant. In Autumn turns a bluish crimson, at which time it seems a 

poor color. 

Zea Mays japonica (Variegated Corn). Useful for bouquets of Gladioli 
or Red Hot Pokers. 

* Biennials 

This is a class of 
plants which 
lives but two 
years. The seed 
can be sown in 
the Summer or 
early Autumn 
one year; the 
young plants 
form a rosette of 
leaves but do not 
bloom until the 
following year, 
after which they 

Hedge of Ipomoeas, or Mornitjg Glories. Sow out of usually die. One 
doors at the end of May 01 OUT COmmoa- 




ANNUALS AND BIENNEALS 



99 



est garden plants is a biennial, namely, Foxglove. Many other 
plants are best treated as biennials, as, for example, some Campanulas, 
Hollyhocks, Anchusa and Sweet William, all of which dechne after 
two years. There are few plants to rival the Foxglove; it possesses 
such excellent foliage that nothing need ever be planted at its base; 
besides, the stately spires of inverted glove fmgers are most attractive. 

Biennials are best protected for the Winter by pulling the leaves 
together and packing straw between them, in which case they seem 
to stand the cold nicely. If poorly protected the center of the plant 
decays* leaving it hollow; the stems then dp not become strong enough 
to bear the truss of bloom; at the same time the excellent foliage is 
entirely gone. This is too often the case with the beautiful Canter- 
bury Bells (Campanula Medium), which should not be too thickly 
covered but properly handled. 



Always consult Index to Contents. 
Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this 
book that will escape your attention 
if you do not use the Index freely. 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
chapter we recommend 

THE BOOK OF ANNUALS, by Henry H. .Saylor. Fifty of the most 
dependable annual flowering plants are shown in full-page photographic 
reproductions, opposite each of which is given a page of descriptive text that 
tells just what the gardener wants to know about that plant — how high it grows, 
the color of its flowers, when to plant seed, and so on. Price, $1.30 postpaid. 
Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide. 



!00 



GARDEN GUIDE 



GERMINATION TABLE OF FLOWER SEEDS f 

* Represents an Indefinite Number of Days. 



Days 

Abutilon 20 

Acroclinium 15 

African Golden Daisy. 15 

Agapanthus 20 

Agathaea coelestis .... 20 

Ageratum 5 

Alyssum 5 

Ampelopsis 15 

Anchusa 20 

Anemone, St. Brigid. . 15 

Antirrhinum 20 

Aquilegia 15 

Arctotis grandis 20 

Asparagus 30 

Asters 8 

Asters, Perennial 15 

Baby's Breath 20 

Ball of Fire 15 

Bachelor's Button. ... *5 

Balloon Vine 25 

Balsams 10 

Begonias 15 

Bellis perennis 5 

Boston Ivy 15 

Blanket Flower 20 

Blue-eyed Daisy 20 

Blue Day Flower 20 

Blue Salvia *15 

Brachycome 8 

Brazilian Morning 

Glory 8 

Browallia 20 

Brugmansia arborea. . 15 
Bush Eschscholtzia. . . 8 

Butterfly Pea 15 

Cactus 30 

Calendula 10 

California Poppy 8 

Campanula 8 

Canary-bird Flower. . . * 

Candytuft 5 

Cannas *15 

Canterbury Bells *15 

Cardinal Climber 5 

Carnations 8 

Carnations, Perennial. 8 

Castor Beans 15 

Celosia 20 

Centaurea *5 

Centrosema 15 

Chinese Bellflower.. . . 20 
Christmas Orchid 

Flower 20 

Chrysanthemums..... 5 

Cigar Plant *8 

Cineraria 5 

Clematis, Tuberous.. .*30 

Cleome pungens 20 

Cobsa scandens 15 



Days 

Cockscomb 20 

Coix lachryma * 

Coleus. 20 

Columbine 15 

Commelina' 10 

Coreopsis 20 

Cornflower Aster * 

Cosmos 5 

Crimson Flax 8 

Cuphea *8 

Cyclamen 25 

Cyperus alternifolius. . 25 

Cypress Vine 5 

Dahlias 5 

Daisies 20 

Daturas 15 

Delphinium , 15 

Dianthus ^5 

Digitalis 20 

Dimorphotheca 15 

Dolichos 15 

Dusty Miller *5 

Echinocystis *30 

English Double Daisy. 5 

Eschscholtzia 5 

Euphorbia.,. 20 

Evening Primrose. ... 5 
Everlasting Flowers. . * 

Feverfew 20 

Fire-Cracker Plant ... *8 
Fire-on-the-Mountain. 20 

Forget-Me-Not 15 

Four O'clock 5 

Foxglove 20 

Fuchsia *30 

Gaillardia. 20 

Geraniums 20 

Gloxinia 15 

Godetia 15 

Gourds 15 

Grass Seed * 

Gypsophila 20 

Heiianthus 15 

Helichrysum 5 

Heliotrope 15 

Heuchera sanguinea . . 20 

Hibiscus *15 

Hollyhocks 5 

Hop, Japanese 15 

Horn of Plenty 15 

Humble Plant 8 

Hunnemannia 8 

Hyacinth Bean, Jap- 
anese 15 

Ice Plant *5 

Impatiens Sultani. ... 15 

IpomcEas 5 

Iris *50 



Days 

Ivies * 

Jack-and-the- 

Beanstalk 15 

Japanese Bean 15 

Japanese Hop 15 

Japan Iris *50 

Jerusalem Cherry *20 

Job's Tears * 

Kenil worth Ivy 5 

Kochia scoparia 15 

Kudzu Vine 15 

Lantana 15 

Larkspur 15 

Lathyrus 25 

Lavender. 20 

Lemon Verbena 8 

Linaria. 5 

Linum 8 

Lobelias 8 

Love-in-a-Mist 8 

Lychnis 20 

Mallow Marvels *15 

Marigold 5 

Marvel of Peru 5 

Maurandya *25 

Mexican Fire Plant.. . 20 
Mesembryanthemum . *5 

Mignonette 5 

Mimosa 8 

Mimulus. 8 

Mina lobata 5 

Mirabilis 5 

Monkey Flower 20 

Moon vines 20 

Morning Glory 5 

Mountain Honey- 
suckle 20 

Mourning Bride 20 

Musk Plant 20 

Nasturtium, Dwarf 

Tall 8 

Nicotiana 20 

Nigella 8 

(Enothera 5 

Ornamental Grasses. . * 

Ostrich-Plume 20 

Oxalis 20 ' 

Palm 15 

Painted Tongue 5 

Pansies 8 

Passion Flower 50 

Peas, Sweet 15 

Pelargoniums 20 

Pentstemon 20 

Perennial Peas 25 

Petunias 20 

Pheasant-Eye Pink. . . 5 



(tFrom he Catalogue of Conard & Jones) 



GERMINATION TABLE 



10 i 



Days 

Phlox 20 

Pinks 5 

Platycodon ^30 

Poppies 20 

Portulaca 20 

Primroses *15 

Primulas *15 

Pueraria Thun- 

bergiana 15 

Ragged Robin 20 

Ricinus 15 

Rose * 

Rose, Moss 20 

Salpiglossis 5 

Salvia *15 

Scabiosa 20 

Scarlet Runner 8 



Days 

Scarlet Sage *15 

Schizanthus 20 

Seeds for Vases and 

Baskets * 

Sensitive Plant 20 

Shasta Daisy 20 

Smilax 15 

Snapdragon 20 

Solanum *20 

Spider Plant 20 

Stocks 5 

Stokesia * 

Straw Flower 5 

Summer Bush Cypress 15 

SiTnflower 15 

Sun Plant 20 

Swan River Daisy. ... 8 



Days 

Sweet Peas 15 

Sweet Sultan *.j 

Sweet William 10 

Ten- Weeks Stocks 

Umbrella Plant 

Verbena 8 

Vinca * 

Violas * 

Violets * 

Wallflower 5 

Water- Lilies * 

Wedding Bells 15 

Wild Cucumber Vine. *30 
Youth and Old Age... 5 
Yucca * 

Zinnias « . 5 




An early Summer scene 



102 



GARDEN GUIDE 




most pleasing combination of garden favorites 



CHAPTER Vni 



Some Garden Favorites and How 
to Grow Them 

Asters — Cannas — Campanulas — Coleus — Columbines — Dahlias 
Chrysanthemums and Daisies — Delphiniums — Foxglove — 
Geraniums — Gladioli — Hibiscus — Irises — Lathyrus — Lilies 
— Marigold — Pansies — Peonies — Petunias — Phlox — Pinks 
—Poppy- -Salvia — Snapdragons — Sweet Peas — Sweet William — 
Tritomas — Tuberous Begonias — Zinnias 

THE ASTERS 

ASTERS as they are recognized today are what have resulted from 
. the development and improvement of the China Aster. The 
real Asters are small, Daisy-like flowers, resembling the single- 
flowered China Aster and known in England as Michaelmas Daisies. 

There are all sorts of types 
of China Asters, all of which 
have been improved from one 
single-flowered sort. They are 
annuals, easy of culture, and 
with their profusion of bloom 
and color make a brilliant gar- 
den display, particularly in the 
Autumn. The best types to 
grow are the Branching, with 
long, strong stems; the Crego, 
HohenzoUern, and Comet, all 
of which are flat-flowered; the 
King, which has long needle- 
like petals, and the ball-like 
sorts, as Victorias, Trufl'aut, 
and Peony-flowered Perfection. 
There are early, medium and 
late kinds. The later flowering 
sorts are most successful with^ 
the home gardener. 

The seeds of the earlier va- 
rieties may be started in the 
hotbed or window in March. 
For late Summer and Autumn 

103 




China *'Comet Asters 
To be had in all sorts of types and a 
multiplicity of colors 



104 



GARDEN GUIDE 



flowers sowings may be made in the open ground in April or May. 
Vigorous growth is encouraged by two transplantings. WTien the 
seedlings are large enough to handle transfer to flats or beds. Trans- 
plant again when the plants are three or four inches high, setting 
them where they are to bloom, twelve to fifteen inches apart; the 
branching sorts need more room to develop. Do not let the plants 
get a check in any way due to want of water, or cramping of root 
system. A rich, well prepared soil suits them best. Wood ashes or 
slaked lime incorporated with the soil will do much to prevent root 
and stem diseases to which Asters are liable. 

THE CANNAS 

These handsome subjects mark a wonderful development by the 
plant breeder. At first the Cannas were only prized as fohage plants; 
the petals were narrow and the flower was very unattractive. Now 
we have an excellent series of wonderful Cannas with superbly colored 
gigantic flowers, all of which are of easy culture and great value for 
the garden, where they are planted in formal beds or mixed in the 
perennial border. 

Starting Cannas 

In March the roots, 
which have been stored 
during the Winter, are best 
cut up so that there are 
one to three buds or eyes 
on each piece. They can 
then be planted in boxes 
of sand or sandy soil and 
placed in a light window. 
If the season is late and 
the plants get rather large, 
they should be placed in 
pots; those four inches 
high are generally large 
enough. 

Cannas are tender and 
should not be planted in 
the open ground before all 
danger of frost is past. 

There is no advantage in _ ^ i, 

. , « ^ , Cannas are easy to grow and wen repay the 

plantmg too early, tor they slight labor required 

do not make good growth till the ground becomes thoroughly warm. 




CANNAS 



105 



Preparing Canna Bed 

Spread a wheelbarrow load of well-rotted manure over each square 
yard of soil and dig deeply: the soil should be loosened to a depth of 
fifteen to eighteen inches. The deeper the digging the better will the 
bed absorb water. Large-leaved plants always require lots of water. 
Careful attention must be given to the question of the planting of va- 
rieties of harmonious colors as well as of the proper heights. We give 
herewith a list of select varieties: 

Eureka, white, ft. high. Sensation, pink, 3 ft.; City of Port- 
land, pink, ft. King Humbert, red, 4)^ to 5 ft.; Meteor, red, 
5 ft.; Firebird, red, 4 ft.; Fiery Cross, red, 4 ft. Favorite, yellow and 
variegated, 43^ ft.; Panama, yellow and variegated, 3 ft.; San Diego, 
yellow and variegated, 4 ft. 

A supplementary Ust of equally fine varieties contains the follow- 
ing: Wyoming, reddish bronze leaves and ochre colored flowers; tall 
and good; Richard Wallace, soft creamy prinu-ose trusses and green 
foliage; effective and desirable: compact habit; Venus, deep pink 
flowers, dark green foliage, sturdy grower: Souv. de Anthony Crozy, 
brilliant scarlet and gold, flowers large, a free bloomer and dwarf; 
J. D. Eisele, rich orange scarlet, 5 ft., one of the very best. Rosea 
Gigantea, has immense flowers of a deep old rose color; one of the 
finest and most beautiful; Mrs. Alfred Conard, salmon pink, large 
and fine; Feurnur, intense orange, 5 ft., a good Canna; Gustav Gump- 




Even as a foliage plant, without flowers, the Canna is beautiful 



106 



GARDEN GUIDE 



per, the best golden yellow. Others of prime excellence comprise 
Florence Vaughan, tall growing, flowers rich yellow and scarlet. 
Mme. Crozy, dwarf brilliant scarlet with gold center; Prof. Myers, 
dark foliage, crimson flowers; Gladiator, resembles Florence Vaughan, 
or vice-versa, but not so tall and has more red splashes on the yellow; 
Wm. Saunders, reddish foliage and scarlet trusses; Queen Charlotte, 
matures early, flowers crimson with yellow edge; Jean Fiscot, one of 
the dwarfest, flowers crimson; Reubens, medium grower, dark foliage 
and crimson flowers. 

For the sake of its handsome shining green foliage, and its general 
statehness, Canna gigantea is recommended. It is very handsome 
next to the walls of one's house. 

Cannas usually spread a little and, as they are large growing, 
should be planted at least eighteen inches apart. The Orchid-flowering 
varieties require from twenty to twenty-two inches between the plants. 
In planting firm the roots well and cover with four to five inches of soil. 

Cannas from Seed 

Because of the extreme hardness of the shells, Canna seeds should 
be soaked for a few days before planting. The seeds are also frequently 
nicked with a file or sharp knife. Sow half an inch deep in a sandy 
loam in a box or pot and place in a hotbed or some other warm location. 
When large enough to handle pot off singly and keep under glass until 
the open beds are ready to receive them. 

Digging and Storing. When the tops are killed by the frost 
the roots can be dug in the morning, and if the day is sunny they can 
be left to dry. They must be stored where they can be kept warm, 
for if they are cold and damp they decay. They may either be buried 
in sand or soil, although sand is preferable. If a greenhouse is available 
the roots may be stored under the benches. It is really unnecessary to 
wait until the tops die down, for the beds may be wanted to plant 
with bulbs, in which case let the Cannas grow as long as possible and 
then dig them. 

THE CAMPANULAS • Bellflowers 

The Bellflowers have ever been popular; the form of the bell 
appeals to everybody. All round the world these Campanulas have 
been christened with names which show the admiration of the folks 
for them. 

The number of species under cultivation is great. None is more 
popular than the huge Canterbury Bells (C. Medium) and form known 



CAMPANULAS 



107 



as Cup and Saucer (C. M. caly- 
canthema) from its having saucers 
beneath the flaring chaHces. Bear- 
ing smaller flowers and less cup-like 
is the graceful Peach-leaved Cam- 
panula (C. persicifolia), nanied 
from its narrow leaves. There is 
also the stately Chimney Cam- 
panula (C. pyramidalis'i the tall- 
est growing sort. 

Two smaller-growing but 
very ornamental sorts must be 
mentioned, namely, ^ the Car- 
pathian Harebell (C. carpathica) 
and the Rocky Mountain Hare- 
bell (C. rotundifolia). 

Canterbury Bells are bienni- 
als, i. e., they are sown one year 
^ and bloom and die the next. Sow 
seed in the Spring and transplant . 
in late Fall, putting the seedlings 
where they are to remain perma- 
nently, or in cold frames until time 
for planting out. Protect during the Canterbury Beiis 

Winter with leaves or stable litter, but avoid covering the tops or crowns. 

COLEUS 

For grouping on lawns, ribboning and carpet bedding the Coleus 
is one of the most useful and attractive of ornamental plants. It is a 
tender perennial, grows from a foot to two feet high, and the colors 
and variegations of its foliage are rich and beautiful. Using shallow 
pots or pans, sow the seed in March or April in good, mellow soil, cover- 
ing lightly with earth ; maintain an even temperature and do not allow 
the soil to become dry. When the weather is settled and warm, trans- 
fer the seedlings to the open ground, preferably in a sheltered situation. 
Under favorable conditions, they will attain perfection the first season. 

As a border for beds of flowering plants, Coleus stands without a 
rival, and, by judicious pinching out of the tips of the shoots, the 
plants can be maintained at any desired height, to conform to the 
size of the other plants in the bed, and still retain their beautiful 
color effects. The Coleus always does best when planted out in the 
full sunlight, yet, at the same time, it is a plant that can be recom- 
mended for partially shaded situations as well 




108 



GARDEN GUIDE 



THE COLUMBINE • Aquilegia 



Columbines are so frail, 
yet so strong; the forms are 
so nmnerous and the flowers 
so varied in color, that they 
are deserving of a prominent 
place in every garden. 

Seed sown one year 
blooms the next. The crowns 
gradually increase in size 
size until huge clumps are 
formed. Sow th seed in a 
prepared bed or in the cold- 
frame in early Summer and 
wait until the next year for 
results. 

Some of the most charm- 
ing forms to grow are the 
Rocky Mountain Columbine 
hybrids (Aquilegia caerulea), 
deep blues and pinks, long 
spurred; A. chrysantha hybrids 
superb clear lemon yellow long 
spurred sorts; A. canadensis, 
the yellow and red wild Colum- 
bine of the East; and A. vul- 
garis, a short-spurred form. 




The Columbine 
Seed sown one year blooms the 
next 



THE DAHLIA 

There is little question why the Dahlia has gained in popularity. 
The newer varieties win our admiration as soon as we see them. Should 
.you insist that the Dahlia is very formal and stiff we should answer 
that the ones to which you refer are perhaps stiff because they were 
carefully bred for regularity and symmetry, and you would look upon 
them as triumphs of the breeder's art if you knew that the modern 
varieties have been evolved from several wild Mexican species. Near 
Mexico City, at an altitude of one thousand to two thousand feet 
above that of the city, we find the wild forms on the sides of the deep 
ravines in partial shade. It is hot in the daytime, but really gets cold 



DAHLIAS 



at night. How nicely this explains why our varieties bloom best in 
the cooler days of Autumn. 

It was at the end of the eighteenth centur^y before the Dahlia 
reached Europe and soon after three varieties were known. Soon 
doubles were produced. The flat ones were first very popular; then 
the ball-shaped blossoms of the show type were greatly in evidence. 
Between 1830 and 1860 the interest in DahHas became intense, and 
great premiums were paid for good varieties. Then in 1870 fol- 
lowed varieties which were flat- 
ter, less formal and delicately 
colored. In 1872 a new species, 
Dahha Jaurezii, was intro- 
duced. This is the progenitor of 
the Cactus Dahhas, a type uni- 
versally admired at present be- 
cause of its graceful form and 
delicate coloring. The Cactus 
types are combined with the 
singles to produce the Peony- 
flowered forms from which, 
have been ehminated the weak 
stems, resulting in an exalted 
form, and well-shaped blooms 
of matchless colors borne upon 
wonderfully strong plants. The 
large-flowered singles are hav- 
ing a great wave of popularity 
now, for they are often beauti- 
fuUy colored. In 1899 there 
was a pretty type produced in 
France in which there is a row 
of smaller and much more slen- 
der petals, of a difl*erent color, 
surrounding the central disk of 
an otherwise single flower. This 
type has been termed the Col- 
larette Dahha. 




Duplex Form of Dahlia 
The Dahlia is essentially the poor man's 
flower and most nobly does it respond, in 
its innumerable types, to its really trivial 
needs 



Cultivation 

The Dahlia is typically Fall blooming and succeeds in any location 
where kilhng frosts do not come too e'arly. If the plants are not serious- 
ly checked in their growth by frosts, they will usually bloom very nicely 



no 



GARDEN GUIDE 



in most parts of New York State, New England and the Central 
West. The soils best adapted to Dahlias are those which are somewhat 
sandy, but they will grow on heavy clay. The regions which are in- 
fluenced more or less by the ocean, that is, where cool nights are preva- 
lent, are perhaps the most noted for Dahha growing, especially Long 
Island, New Jersey, -Rhode Island, Maryland and Massachusetts in 
the East, and without a doubt the best Dahhas we have ever seen were 
in British Columbia, Northern California, Washington and Oregon. 
Heavy soils may be lightened by coal ashes, sand, and coarse manure. 
Sandy and lighter soils will benefit by manure or clay to make them 
more moisture-retaining. Nitrogenous fertilizers are rarely applied, 
because they cause too great vegetative growth and a retarding of the 
flowering period. 




Hedge of Dahlias sorrounding a typical home in Victoria, B. C. 



Starting the Tubers 

The tubers should be started about April 1st in a warm, light room, 
merely placing them in a shallow box of sand or light soil. When the 
young shoots begin to show, they should be so cut that one or two eyes 
are allowed to remain on each piece; the eyes start from the collar 
(see Contents Plant Propagation.) ^ 

Time and Distance of Planting 

They may be planted late in April or May, according to the season. 
It is better to set them out late than too early. As the Dahlia makes 
a large plant it should be given plenty of room; even four feet by four 



DAHLIAS 



111 



feet is not too much if the variety is a large one. Planted much closer 
the plants are difficult to tend. The tubers should be placed about 
four inches deep, planting them flat or in such a position that the • 
growing point is faced up toward the surface of the soil. Firm the roots 
well. 

Supporting 

The average root will make several shoots. Allow them to grow 
. until they make the first set of leaves; by that time the strongest can 
be selected and the others cut away below the surface of the soil. 
Sometimes two shoots may be ajlowed to grow, but never more; as a 
rule one shoot is sufficient. Tie the shoot to a stake when about a foot 
high And do not neglect tying as the plant develops, for this is very 
important. To cause the plants to branch at any certain height, the 
tip is pinched out; this causes lateral shoots to start. 

For Attaining Large Flowers 

If the soil is carefully and diligently cultivated there will be little 
need for watering, which is detrimental unless consistently practiced. 
Thorough watering should be given each time and at regular intervals; 
otherwise plants will be checked and flowers will sufi'er. 

In order that each individual flower may be as large as possible, 
especially in the case of the show and fancy types, which produce a 
great many flowers of medium size, it is best to disbud the main 
branches leaving only the terminal bud. It is often best to allow only 
six or eight branches. The singles, collarettes and pompons are rarely 
pruned or disbudded, the idea being to get plants with as many flowers 
as possible. The cactus varieties are apt to have their weak neck 
habit intensified by excessive pruning and disbudding, so that they 
should be cautiously disbudded, removing only part of the buds. 

Flowers are best cut in the morning or evening and any foliage 
not wanted should be removed. The stems should then be placed in 
water up to the base of the flowers and removed to a cool place. Hard- 
stemmed varieties are best placed in hot water and allowed to remain 
until the water cools, when they should be removed to fresh cold 
water. Under no circumstances attempt to ship for exhibition with- 
out the pre-cooling. 

Storage 

When the Autumn killing frosts arrive, perhaps in mid-October, 
and the foliage is killed, take up the plants at once and allow them to 



GARDEN GUIDE 



dry a little in the sun. Gut off the stems so that a stub of three inches 
is left. Then place them in a cellar where temperature will surely re- 
main above freezing, about forty to forty-five degrees F. They may 
best be placed with the stems down on shelves and covered with soil 
or sand. When storing large tubers it may not be necessary to cover 
them; merely place them in a heap on shelf or floor, keeping the stems 
to outside. Do not let them get dried out; if they shrivel, sprinkle a 
little water over them. If kept too moist they will soon mildew. 

The Raising of Dahlias from Seed 

This is fascinating work, particularly the single forms. Of these, 
if the seed is sown in a frame or greenhouse in March, the plants will 
come into bloom in July ; they will also flower if the seed is sown where 
it is to remain, the same as most of the annuals. The seed of the double 
DahUas should be sown in February or March, and the plants grown on 
the same as if from cuttings. With good care they will come into 
flower early in September, when the pleasure commences. The cer- 
tainty of getting something good and the possibihty of getting a flower 
worthy a name, possibly better than any of the existing forms or va- 
rieties, makes this branch of floriculture of extreme interest. 

The young seedlings should be set close together, not more than 
two feet apart; when they come into flower weed out such as are not 
desirable to keep. Another reason for close planting is that except 
for the single varieties, the plants do not attain in their first season as 
large growth as if from tubers. 

.Chrysanthemums and Daisies 

The word Chrysanthemum has been derived from the Greek 
chrysoSy gold, and anthemoriy flower. 

It is very interesting to see just how many plants are really 
Chrysanthemums. The wild Ox-Eye Daisy, the Shasta Daisy, the 
Pyrethrum (from which insect powder is made), the Feverfew of our 
grandmother's garden, the Marguerite, or Paris Daisy of the florist, 
as well as the monster decorative blooms of the expert culturist in- 
doors, are all Chrysanthemums. 

Some of the Chrysanthemums, or 'Mums, as the gardener affec- 
tionately calls them, are annuals. In the case of most of the annual 
species the blooms resemble huge Daisies. They are white or some 
shade of yellow, and often, as in the case of Chrysanthemum carina- 
tum, they have a maroon or red ring of color at the center. The an- 
nual types can be sown in April, in the open ground, where they 
should be thinned to eight inches, or, if large plants are wanted, pinch 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND DAISIES 



113 



them back when several leaves tall, and place twelve inches apart. 
A rich, sandy loam suits them best and they surely love the sun. 

They bloom profusely throughout the Summer and early Fall. 
The species known as Golden Feather (Chry santhemum praealtum var. 
aureum) should be sown indoors in March and though really a perennial, 
it is treated as a annual. 
It is used as a yellow- 
leaved border plant. 

An excellent charac- 
teristic of some perennial 
Chrysanthemums is that 
they reproduce themselves 
so nicely by the produc- 
tion of suckers or under- 
ground stems. One of the 
species which multiphes 
itself in this manner is 
the Feverfew (Chrysan- 
themum Parthenium) . 
It is a very old plant, 
but it certainly bears an 
interesting little tufted 
white and yellow flower 
in clusters which, com- 
ing in June, is well worthy 
of a place in the garden. 
It self-sows its seed, but 
rarely becomes a nui- 
sance. 

Two white Daisy-like species are well worth cultivating. The 
first is the Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum), a gigantic 
white field Daisy of very vigorous growth and producing flowers 
from June throughout the Summer They have very good keeping 
qualities and are effective in the border or as a cut flower. Another 
species, a shrubby Daisy (Chrysanthemum nipponicum), blooms in 
the Fall and produces its flowers on the stems from the old shoots of 
the previous year. 

The class known as the Hardy Chrysanthemums and which 
resemble the indoor varieties, are of two types, the button-like varieties 
or pompons, and the Aster- like or large-flowering varieties. Most of 
the varieties are hardy if protected in the Winter by dry leaves. They 
enjoy constant cultivation and a rich soil which has been deeply pre- 




A Cluster of Hardy Chrysanthemums 
Propagated by cuttings or by division of the 
root, and^also of great interest to grow from 
seed 



114 



OARDEN GUIDE 



pared. They are best planted in the Spring and advice is frequently 
given that all old plants should be divided up and reset each year, 
for they exhaust the soil. Good seed is now available of this type 
and they may be grown successfully by this method. 

As soon as the plants have grown four inches tall, especially if 
few plants are available, and a good display is wished, they should be 
pinched. This will cauge them to branch freely, each shoot bearing 
a number of buds. From the very start in growth the plants must be 
staked. The greatest fault with this group is that they all fall down 
near blooming time, and the whole beauty of the plant is destroyed 
unless carefully staked. The shoots can easily be tied to stakes if the 
if the stakes are once in place. If the very largest flowers rather 
than the greatest quantity of bloom are wanted, feed with liquid 
manure when buds begin to show, and remove many of the smaller 
buds on each stem. Chrysanthemum blooms'will be much better if a 
covering is placed oyer them during the cold Fall rains or on the 
nights of frosts. 

THE DELPHINIUMS • Larkspurs 

The charming and immensely popular Delphinium, which is better 
known, perhaps, by its common name, Larkspur, is well adapted for 
beds and borders. There are both perennial and annual sorts. For 
variety and beauty of blossoms, few other plants can equal the peren- 
nial Delphiniums, especially the improved English or hybrid kinds. 
Growing to a height of from three to six feet, they bear on their erect 
stems long, graceful spikes of magnificent flowers, ranging in color 
from pure white through all shades of blue, while the clean, curiously 
cut foliage shows ofl" to advantage. If the stems are cut off close to 
the ground when the flowers begin to wither, second and third crops 
will follow and the season of blooming is thus prolonged until late Fall. 

Delphiniums are easily cultivated. They succeed best in deeply 
dug, loamy soil, enriched with fine manure, but any well-fertilized soil 
will give good results Seed sown in the hotbed or indoors in February 
will produce plants which should begin to bloom in the garden about 
the middle of June. When seed is sown in the open ground flowers 
may not come until the second season. As soon as the weather is 
favorable for transplanting, set the young plants from two to two and 
one-half feet apart in the bed. Apply a little bonemeal to the soil 
around the plants during the Summer, and in very dry weather give 
them a copious supply of water. Dusting the crowns with coal ashes 
before Winter sets in will protect them from insects. Among the 



DELPHINIUMS^ 



116 



good varieties are: Belladonna, turquoise blue; Chinense, gentian 
blue; Formosum, deep blue with white center; Moerheimi, pure white. 
There are many others with larger flowers. 

The annual Larkspurs bear spikes of handsome flowers and their 
fine Colors are strikingly effective in the bed or shrubbery border. 
They grow two to three feet high and in a sunny situation bloom all 
Summer. Seed should be sown in the open ground in April. 



THE GERANIUMS 

An ideal plant for pots and bedding, the Geranium has always 
been a great favorite in both house and garden, and well deserves its 
commanding place among the most attractive and satisfactory of 
old-fashioned flowers. In every section of the country it is popular 
as a bedding plant and its magnificent trusses of single, semi-double or 
double flowers, surmounting a wealth of bright green, healthy foliage, 
furnish a decorative feature which never fails to gain the highest 
admiration. It is of vigorous habit and a profuse and continuous 
bloomer, the colors comprising a great number of shades and 
combinations, with pure white, 
rose, salmon pink, scarlet and 
crimson predominating For 
many years the Geranium has 
periodically gained acquisi- 
tions of wonderful novelties 
from both European and Amer- 
ican introducers, with the re- 
sult that today it carries a 
longer list of varieties than 
most other plants in cultiva- 
tion. Amoijg the interesting 
and beautiful types are the 
Cactus-flowering, the Ivy- 
leaved, the scented-leaved and 
those bearing variegated fo- 
liage. 

Geraniums may be propa- 
gated by sowing seeds in a hot- 
bed, but for ordmary garden 
purposes the method of raising 

plants from cuttings is gener- The Geranium well deserves its command- 
n , rr^i 1 ... ing place among the most satisfactory of 

ally preferred. The best time old-fashioned flowers 




116 



GARDEN GUIDE 



to take cuttings is when the plants have ceased flowering and they may 
be successfully struck in a propagating house or a frame, using pure 
loam mixed with sand and hghtly pressed into small pots well drained 
with potsherds. Side shoots which have not flowered, cut close to the 
stem, are considered the best cuttings. They should not be placed in 
the pots before the wound has dried up. When the pots are filled give 
them a gentle watering and keep them in a temperature of fifty to fifty- 
fiv© degrees. Nipping off the top buds will induce symmetrical and 
bushy growth. Another way to increase by cuttings is to place the cut- 
tings in shallow pans and then give them the usual treatment. In the 
garden bed the soil should be thoroughly pulverized at the time of dig- 
ging and mixed with well-rotted manure. Transplanting may be done 
as soon as the weather has become warm and settled. Estabhshed 
plants cut down in the Fall are transferred to pots and held during the 
Winter in a temperature of about forty-five degrees. 

Among the best varieties are S. A. Nutt, scarlet; Beaute Poitevine, 
orange rose; Mrs. Lawrence, salmon pink; Mme. JauHn, peach pink; 
Mrs. E. G. Hill, orange and white; La Favorite, dbl. white; Alphonse 
Ricard, orange scarlet; Jean Oberle, soft flesh color with pink center; 
Mme. Buchner, snow, white; and Dina Scalarandis, blush. 

THE FOXGLOVE • Digitalis 

For garden and shrubbery borders the dignified and stately Fox- 
glove has always been a great favorite. It is also extensively planted 
for naturalizing along the edges of woods and in other suitable places, 
where it self-seeds and flourishes. Rising to a height of three to five 
feet*from masses of broad, dark green foliage, the robust stalks pro- 
duce long spikes of beautiful tubular flowers, which give a highly 
ornamental effect to any garden. The colors are bright and varied, 
most of the strains being prettily spotted or blotched. Some of the 
newer introductions rival Gloxinias in shadings and markings. 

The Foxglove, which is a biennial, does well in any good garden 
soil, and prefers shady situations. Sow the seed outdoors in Spring 
and transplant the seedlings where they are to remain permanently 
or into a coldframe; where they make extra strong plants for a second 
transfer. They will produce their flowers the next season. 

THE GLADIOLUS 

Here we have a regal flower stately enough for the finest mansion, 
as well as a democratic flower charming for the cottage window and home 
garden. Each year finds new uses for the Gladiolus, which now holds 
first place among the Sunmier blooming bulbs. First, because of the 



GLADIOLUS * 117 

great range of color; secondly, because of wonderful keeping qualities, 
each spike keeping over a week; thirdly, because of its easy culti- 
vation, primarily the same as that for Potatoes; and, fourthly, by the 
proper choice of established varieties they can be commended because 
of their cheapness. This flower is extensively utilized for all kinds 
of decorative work. Large vases or baskets of the stately flower spikes 
fill a place quite distinct from any other 
flower. As a garden subject the Gladi- 
olus is unexceUed for furnishing a long 
season of bloom, extending from mid- 
July until frost, either in a bed, in 
which case the plants should be very 
close, or in clumps in the herbaceous 
border. 

The best soil for the Gladiolus is a 
medium loam. It appreciates good fer- 
tility, but seems sensitive to any manure 
in contact with the bulbs. Manure is 
good if applies in the Autumn previous 
to planting. The best fertihzer for 
general use is one that would be caUed 
a Potato fertilizer, rich in potash and 
phosphoric acid, both chemicals being 
useful in the proper formation of good 
bulbs. Bonemeal is also extensively 
used. Liquid manure, when the buds 
are forming, seems beneficial. 

Gladioli are not hardy, except 
some varieties of Lemoinei, and even There should be given space in 
these require- protection in New York ^^e^-y ^^'""^^'ciadroH ^""^'^^^ 
State. Planting should be deferred 

until all danger of frost is past. A well-planned succession in planting 
is advisable. The depth to plant is determined by the character of 
the soil. In the lightest soil seven or eight inches is not too deep, 
but in a heavy clay four or five inches would be a sufiicient depth. 
There are two reasons why the bulbs should be planted as deep as 
the character of the soil will permit: First, the Gladiolus is moisture- 
loving, and in deep planting its roots are in the cooler moist soil; 
secondly, the soil acts as a support, no other support for the stems being 
necessary ordinarily. Commercially, the bulbs, or as they are more 
properly called, the corms, are usually planted in rows^ often two 
rows, about six inches apart, in the furrow. 




118 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Upon the approach of frost the corms are dug, but the stems are 
not removed. They are then stored in an airy placed to dry thoroughly. 
After several weeks the last year's exhausted corms and the old stems 
may be removed and the stock cleaned. The best storage temperature 
is from 40 to 45 deg., and in a rather dry atmosphere. If the corms 
become heated they start prematurely ; if too humid they rot or start 
into growth. A shallow tray three or four inches deep insures the 
corms against heating. 

Propagation 

(1) By seeds. By this method new varieties are obtained, but the 
standard varieties, being hybrids, do not come true when started from 
seed. (2) By cormels, or "spawn" (the small, hard-shelled little cormels 
borne upon the old ones) . These, if planted (preferably in a 3-in. flat) 
during the Spring following the season in which they were produced, 
will bloom one or two years later, or usually one year sooner than from 
seed. (3) By the annual renewal of corms of which there are from one 
to six, produced above the old corm each year. 

THE HIBISCUS • Marshmallow 

Blooming in August and September, the Hibiscus is one of the 
hardiest of garden perennials and as it attains almost the dimensions 

of a shrub it is especially 
effective when planted 
along the shrubbery bor- 
ders. The plants are very 
vigorous, with ample fo- 
liage, and produce im- 
mense single flowers, rang- 
ing in colors from pure 
white with deep pink eye 
to bright crimson. They 
are easily raised from 
seed and are rapid grow- 
ers and free bloomers. 

THE IRIS 

Gould the real beauty 

of the coloring of the Iris 

be expressed in words, 

such a description would 

be a masterpiece. The 

word "Iris" has come from 
Vear after year the^U^sesglveprodigalretum. ^j^^ ^.^^^^ ^^^j^^ 




IRISES 



119 



It is the colors of the rainbow we deal with in growing Iris. When 
the form of the Iris bloom is considered we realize that it 
is most dainty and elegant and 



We shall mention only the beard, 
forms of easiest growth. They 

will be sufficient until one realizes the true range of excellence which is 
found in the roll of its one hundred and forty species; then you will 
grow Cahfornian Iris from seed, you will erect frames especially for the 
proper drying of your Oncocyclus Iris aitd no amount of labor will be too 
much if the new variety can only be made to bloom for you. That is 
for the future. 

To appreciate the Iris one should have a little idea of what its parts 
are. The flower consists normally of three petals which stand upright, 
and three which droop more or less; these are well named, respectively, 
the standards and the falls. Inside of the standards are noticed three 
petal-like parts; these are actually lobes of the pistil, the female parts of 
the flower; it is a most peculiar formation, especially when we know 
that the little fringed pocket at the apex of each is really the stigma or 
part which receives the pollen. The two-forked tip of the pistil is called 
the crest. Just beneath the pistil is a stamen, the male part of the 
flower. If we look at a German Iris we will find a very heavy beard on 
the base of the fall, while the Japanese and Siberian Irises do not have 
this tuft of hairs. In some Irises the standards are very small, often 
smaller than the crests of the pistil. Many times the standards, 
though large, do* not stand upright at all 



surpassed by few other flowers. 
The fragrance of many varie- 
ties is so dainty that it vies 
with that of any Rose. The 
adaptability to varying con- 
ditions, such as excessive mois- 
ture, continued drought, ex- 
tended freezing and almost 
perfect baking, is remarkable. 
The rapid reproduction of 
most varieties is an important 
point in its favor. Because of 
all of these favorable attributes 
we commend the various forms 
of this incomparable flower. 




GARDEN GUIDE 



There is a notion that Irises are all water loving; this is not true. 
Two Irises only can be planted in the water; these are the common Blue 
Flag (Iris versicolor), our Uttle wild Iris, and the yellow European 
Iris (Iris pseudacorus) . These two Irises may well be used in water 
gardens, but they will succeed perfectly in ordinary garden soil. The 
wild Iris is hardly as beautiful as some of the others that might be 
grown, but the yellow European Iris has luxuriant foliage and large, 
clear yellow flowers, and deserves wider popularity. 




The wonderful Japanese Iris (I. laevigata, or I. Kaempferi), colonized. 
While enjoying a moist, open situation this Iris does well in a variety 

of soils and positions 



The Japanese Iris (I. Kaempferi) and the Siberian Iris (I. sibirica) 
thrive very nicely at the edges of pools; they will not grow with their 
crowns submerged, however. The flower of the Japanese Iris differs 
from the others in being flat, the standards not being upright. There 
are several forms of the flower; some have six petals and others, because 
the standards are much abbreviated, are called three-petaled Iris, 
The flowers are very large. They enjoy good fertility and a constant 
stirring of the soil, which should never bake over the roots. The 



IRISES 



m 



Japanese Iris likes to be flooded when in bloom, but at no other time. 
They bloom later than the other sorts and varieties can be selected 
which bloom from mid- June till nearly the erfd of July. 

The Siberian Iris, with its blue or white flowers and grass-like 
foliage, is indeed a beautiful garden subject. The spikes are also 
efl'ective in vase arrangements. The white variety. Snow Queen, with 
its golden blotch on the falls, is excellent, as are also the intense blue 
orien talis varieties. Neither the Japanese nor the Siberian Iris is 
insistent upon being planted in moist soil. 

Under * 'Bulbs" we have given a discussion of the Spanish and 
English Irises. 




Iris border backed with shrubs in a semi-wild garden 



Perhaps no group is so easily grown, requiring as little care as 
does the German Iris group. They are very hardy and stand all 
sorts of adverse conditions, growing in the parched soil under the 
eaves of houses, thriving where children tramp the soil to the hardness 
of a cement pavement, blooming under trees choked by grass, and 
stiU give flowers as pretty as an orchid. They should always be 
planted quite on the surface of the soil, not deeply, and are best placed 
in bold groups. So rapid is the multiplication that if a fine variety costs 
a dollar it usually produces so rapidly that the same plant will give 



m 



GARDEN GUIDE 



five or ten dollars worth of stock for another year. The dwarf varie- 
ties of German Iris are known as Pumila Hybrids. When the tall 
varieties were crossed with the dwarf varieties an intermediate group 
resulted, known as Intermediate or Interregna varieties. The blooms 
are large and most exquisite in color. The range of colors in German 
Iris is extraordinary, varying from pure white to deepest yellow, purple 
and violet and including delicate lavender, blue and even approaching 
pink. The Pumila varieties are the earliest to bloom in this group, 
usually in early May. They are followed by the Intermediate, then 
last, the tall, a few of which open in late May or early June. 

It is interesting to know that Iris florentina, the old-fashioned 
sweet, early-blooming, pale lavender-white species, is the orris-root 
of commerce and believed to be the original of the Fleur-de-lis, or 
French national floral emblem. The belles of ancient Greece grew 
it both for flowers and root, and the growing of this root is a leading 
industry of northern Italy. The rhizomes are dug in the Summer 
and peeled to remove the outer bark. The separate joints are laid 
aside to dry until the end of two years, when they will have acquired 
a delicate fragrance of Violets. The root pieces, which have a white 
appearance, are brought to the market by perfumers who powder them 
for dentifrices or sachet powders, or when distilled with water form the 
oil of orris, the basis of many perfumes. 

Almost all Irises like sun. . The best fertilizers for them are wood- 
. ashes and bonemeal. The German Iris likes Ume; the Japanese Iris 
is thought not to like a calcium soil. JNIost Irises are sensitive to 
active manure. After the first year there will be little need for pro- 
tecting any but the weakest plants. 

They are best transplanted after blooming, when the leaves 
have matured; this will be in August or September, not much later, 
for roots should become established before freezing. The Spring is 
considered a poor time to move them. WTien Iris clumps begin to 
choke themselves out by covering the ground so that young shoots 
have difficulty in establishing roots, they should be broken up and 
setjn another place. Due to the prolificacy of German Iris this will 
be necessary every third year. 

LATHYRUS • Everlasting Pea 

The Lathyrus latifolius, or Everlasting Pea, is a native of England, 
where it is extremely popular. Considering its great value as a decora- 
tive climber, it is not as extensively cultivated in this country as it 
should be. To all who love a floAver garden it can be recommended as 
a most desirable plant. It is very hardy, thrives in common garden 
soil, and the vigorous, leafy vines, which attain a height of six to 
eight feet, rapidly cover the trellis, wall or stump against which they 



LATHYRUS - 123 



may be growing. Beginning early in the season, the plants bloom 
all Summer. The flowers, resembling Sweet Peas, are freely produced 
in clusters, the colors including white, bright pink, rose and crimson; 
they are very showy and fine for cutting. 

Roots can be bought from the nurseryman in March or early in 
April, to be planted immediately. A deep, cool soil, that is, one that 
does not dry out readily in Summer nor get fiery hot, is best adapted. 
A moderately sheltered or slightly shaded place is recommended. 
Given a deep, fertile, moist, but not water-logged soil, these Ever- 
lasting Peas will flourish year in and year out. A mulching with barn- 
yard manure is good in Summer or applications of weak liquid 
manure. Two that deserve special attention are the Pearl, white ; and 
rotundifolius, with carmine flowers. 

THE LILIES 

Everyone who has a pretty garden, some time, sooner or later, 
takes up the growing of Lilies. They are the charm of the border 
wherever they are planted. Success with Lilies is not diflicult if one 
confines himself to a few sorts which he can grow. Lilies are of such 
diverse requirements that 
it is only by careful prep- 
aration of soils and in- 
dividual study of their 
needs that all kinds can be 
grown successfully in any 
one location. The Tiger 
Lily seems to grow as 
easily as most weeds and 
is not even choked by 
them. Other Lilies prefer 
good soil, usually light and 
enriched heavily with peat 
and leaf mold. Manure 
should not be used except 
as a mulch. In planting 
Lilies, then, it seems best 
to either add the needed 
sand, peat and leaf mold, 
or to actually remove the 
native soil to a depth of 
two and a half feet. A 
good thick layer of leaves 
or leafmoldis always bene- , LiHum auratum 

^ . , „x. . II One of the largest and handsomest of all the 

iicial as a Wmter mulch LiUes 




m GARDEN GUIDE 

unless there is a growing ground cover. In Spring the young shoots are 
frequently injured by late frosts and it is well to use a few evergreen 
boughs for protection. For the landscape they are easily combined 
with shrubbery or the herbaceous border, where they are perfectly at 
home. The wild yellow or Canada, the Turk's Cap and the yellow 
speciosum or Henryi succeed admirably in beds of Rhododendrons; 
especially when the Rhododendrons do not crowd them too much. 
The Gold-banded Lily should be planted among shrubs so that the 
roots are continually shaded, and where a fair degree of moisture is 
maintained. The Coral and the Thunbergian Lily are excellent planted 
among ferns, which furnish an excellent landscape effect besides. The 
Madonna grows nicely by itself and is most useful for clumps under 
pergolas or as an edging for walks. 

The following are species which should succeed with a little care 
in many gardens: 

Canada Lily. (See LUium canadense.) 
GoLD-BANDED LiLY. (See Lihuiii auratum.) 
Handsome Lily. (See LiHum speciosum.) 

LiLiuM auratum (Gold-banded Lily). White, spotted brownish red and 
with a yellow band on each petal; three to twenty-five flowers on each 
stalk; flowers often a foot across; July to August; four to eight feet. 
One of the largest, but it is very capricious and may last only a year or 
two. Does well in Rhododendron beds, but it must not be crowded. 
* Plant six to ten inches deep. Mulch with very well decayed manure. 
Likes the sandier or the more peaty soils. 

LiLiuM canadense (Canada Lily, or Wild Yellow). Light orange, spotted 
brown; flowers drooping; July; three feet; very hardy. Prefers moist 
soil. Will thrive under garden conditions. Plant three inches deep. 

LiLiuM candidum (Madonna Lily). White, yellow anthefs; June- July; 
four feet; hardy. Thrives well in ordinary gardens. Dislikes being 
moved. Transplant in August. Leaf growth takes place in Septem- 
ber. Excellent garden subject. Superb combined with Delphinium 
or Aconitum. Plant four inches deep. 

LiLiuM chalcedonicum (Scarlet Martagon Lily). Bright red; small; 
July; three feet. One of the best small-flowered Lilies. Does not 
flower well first season after being transplanted. Do not transplant 
later than October. Ordinary garden loam, good drainage. Plant 
four inches deep. 

LiLiuM elegans (Thunbergian Lily). Red and orange; erect; May to 
July; only a foot or two tall. Likes full sunshine, and plant as deep 
as six to. eight inches. Thrives in garden soil but prefers peat, light 
loam and leaf mold. Closely resembles L. davuricum and L. croceum, 
but the latter is taller. 

LiLiuM Henryi (Yellow Speciosum, or Henry's Lily). Deep salmon 
orange; August to September; six to twelve feet; very vigorous; ex- 
cellent for border; very hardy. Give lots of water at blooming time. 
Any good soil. Plant six to eight inches deep. 



LILIES 



125 



LiLiuM PHiLADELPHicuM (Wood Lily, OF Wild Red Lily). Scarlet, yellow 

center, dotted maroon; erect flowers; July to August; eighteen inches; 

very hardy; sun or shade; good loam. Best specimens found in wild; 

often hard to cultivate. Plant three inches deep. 
LiLiuM REGALE (myriophyllum) (Regal Lily). White, slightly suflFused 

pink, and canary yellow at center; fragrant; hardy and vigorous. 

Thrives in any peaty soil when it becomes accHmated. 
LiLiuM sPECiosuM (Handsomc Lily). Pink, white, red varieties, spotted 

crimson ; petals very reflexe^i ; rubrum is most common variety ; August ; 

two to three feet. Does well in either sun or shade. Likes a sandy 

loam best, deep and rich. Succeeds admirably when planted among 

other perennials which shade the soil. 
LiLiuM suPERBUM (Turk's Cap). Orange, flushed scarlet, spotted brown; 

ten to thirty flowers on a stem; July to August; six to eight feet; hardy. 

Good for border if soil is rather rich and moist. Excellent among low, 

shrubby growth. Plant four inches deep. 
LiLiuM TENUiFOLiuM (Goral Lily). Deep scarlet; strong, recurved; six to 

ten flowers on stem; leaves fine; June to July; one and one-half feet. 

Treat as a garden subject. Give partial shade. It is short-lived and 

soon decHnes after its best production of bloom. Grows readily from 

seed. Plant three inches deep. 
LiLiuM TRiGiNUM (Tiger Lily). Orange red, spotted purple; large; petals 

reflexed; July to August; six feet; very hardy. Thrives in any soil; 

prefers sandy or peaty loam. Plant five to six inches deep. Stake 

or plant against wall to protect against winds. 
Madonna Lily. (See Lilium candidum.) 
Regal Lily. (See Lilium regale.) 

Scarlet Martagon Lily. (See Lilium chalcedonicum.) 
Thunbergian Lily. (See Lilium elegans.) 
Tiger Lily. (See Lilium trgrinum.) 
Turk's Cap. (See Lilium superbum.) 
Wood Lily. (See Lilium philadelphicum.) 
Yellow Spegiosum. (See Lilium Henryi.) 

THE marigold 

There is somethiDg captivating even about the name Marigold, 
and all the plants bear yellow or golden flowers. Most of us, after aU, 
love the gold. 

They can be had in heights from cushion-like dwarf (Tagetes 
pumila) of the French type, and the coarser, taller Scotch Marigold or 
Pot Marigold, to the three and one-half foot of the robust African ones. 
Like the Zinnias, they bloom profusely and for many weeks. They 
all love a sunny position and do reasonably well in light soil, albeit, a 
fairly fertile one. Seed can be sown in May where the plants are to 
grow, or seedlings may be raised in hot frames in boxes to be trans- 
planted at the latter end of April. 

THE pansy 

Favorites with all, Pansies are rarely omitted from the flower gar- 
den, be it large or small. Everybody loves the Pansy. The reason is 



126 



GARDEN GUIDE 



that the rich, velvety substance and brilliant colors of the flowers make 
it so radiantly beautiful and attractive. Nothing is more effective in 
Spring and Summer than a design or bed composed of a good selection 
of Pansies in full bloom; the dainty flowers also make charming table 
decorations. Hybridization and scientific culture have produced many 
wonderful strains, as shown in the lists annually presented to the public 
by the various seed firms. For instance, we now have the Giant Trim- 
ardeau Pansies, the Ruffled Pansies, the Mottled Pansies, the Rutterfly 
Pansies and a hundred and one other sorts, all bearing flowers of a more 
or less gorgeous character. 




Pansies are rarely omitted from a flower garden, be it large or small 



Pansy seedlings may be propagated in Spring for Summer bloom- 
ing, or in the Autumn for early Spring use. Select beds sheltered 
from cutting winds, with the soil rich, cool and moist, but well drained. 
For outdoor bedding in the early Spring sow the seed in August in drills, 
covering one-sixteenth to one-eighth inch deep. When the seedhngs are 
large enough to handle, thin out or transplant to stand eight or nine 
inches apart. Cultivate and keep the ground free from weeds, and ap- 
ply water freely in dry weather. Protect the young, plants during the 
Winter with straw or other light litter; they are sometimes carried over 
in coldframes. In extremely hot weather temporary shade should be 
provided, as the rays of the midday sun tend to injure the colors of the 
blooms. 



PETUNIAS 



127 



THE PETUNIA 



This most pleasing 
annual may be fittingly 
described as every- 
body's flower. It suc- 
ceeds everywhere, even 
under unfavorable con- 
ditions, and no garden, 
however small, is com- 
plete without it. Given 
a sunny location, it can 
always be depended 
upon to furnish blooms 
in abundance from 
early Summer until late 
Autumn. It grows 
twelve to eighteen 
inches in height, pro- 
duces single or double 
flowers of many ex- 
quisite shades and col- 
orings, and makes a 
grand show in beds, 
borders, window boxes 
or vases. In recent 
years new and beau- 
ful strains have been 
added to the Petunia 

list, the blossoms being of exceptionaUy large size and in many cases 
finely ruffled or fringed. Seed is best started in March or AprU in a 
hotbed or in a box placed in a sunny window of the house. Set out 
the young plants, when ready, one foot apart each way. The weaker 
seedhngs should not be thrown out, as they often bear the finest 
double flowers. In sheltered positions the Petunia will sometimes seed 
itself and come up the following season. 




Single Petunias 
Petunias succeed everywhere, even under unfavor- 
able conditions, and no garden is complete with- 
out them 



THE PEONY 

Like many other plants intensely interesting because of their 
charming blooms, the Peony first came to the attention of the world 
as a medicinal plant. It was named after Paeon, a mythological doc- 
tor, for the roots of the species officinalis have been used in the making 
of a broth. 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Peonies are easy to grow; 
they are permanent and when 
once estabUshed are impatient 
of being moved. They are per- 
fectly hardy wherever Apples 
can be grown and can easily be 
protected in the colder regions. 
They bear large and showy 
flowers, of a great range of col- 
ors; some are dehcately 
scented. The plants are so free 
from insects that they prove 
themselves to be ideal for cut 
blooms or landscape flowers. 

There are a nmnber of in- 
teresting species of the Peony. 
The most seen is the Chinese 
Peony (Pseonia albiflora). This 
is the standard Peony of which 
we have so many matchless va- 
rieties. The plant of the nar- 
row-leaved or Fennel-leaved 
Mons. Jules Elie Peony (P. tenuifoUa) is very 

Be sure to include this one in your beautiful, but the blooms last 

coUection ^ short time. It blooms in 

May, the pretty scarlet flowers nestling among the dainty dissected 
foHage. At about the same season the shrubby or hardy tree Peonies 
(P. Moutan) open their enormous glossy single or double flowers. 
The shrubby Peony grows very slowly. It should be planted where it 
is sheltered from the wind. Closely following in season are the Euro- 
pean Peonies (P. officinahs). These are the old-fashioned crimson Pine ys 
of the garden; they produce very satiny-petaled blooms, which possess 
a not unpleasant soapy odor. 

The last groups to bloom are the albiflora varieties. These often 
begin to bloom in New York State for Memorial Day. For a suc- 
cession of varieties to bloom, the Rev. C. S. Harrison, who might be 
called the Chaplain of American Gardeners, recommends the varieties 
P. umbellata rosea, I'Esperance, Edulis Superba, Monsieur Dupont, 
Richardson's Rubra Superba, Henry Woodward, Richardson's Grandi- 
flora. Mr. Harrison, speaking further of prologing the blooming of 
the Peony, says: "There is also a system by which the blooming of a 
single variety can be prolonged. Take a row, say of Festiva maxima; 




PEONIES 



129 



wait until the ground 
has frozen sohd; leave 
the end of the row 
uncovered. Then, 
farther on, put on 
mulching and in- 
crease the depth un- 
til, at the other end, 
it is a foot to eighteen 
inches deep; leave 
this on. The cover- 
ing keeps the frost in; 
then the plant .will 
take some time to 
push up through the 
mulching. You can apply this system to the later varieties and so 
lengthen the flowering season considerably." 

A w^ord may be necessary to explain the method of doubling in the 
Peony. The normal or single flower is composed of petals (we shall 
call all the petals, guard petals in this case) ; stamens, or the male part 
of the flower (these are yellow at the tip and bear pollen) ; and the pistil, 
each section of which we call a carpel (this is often red and bears the 
seed). In doubling, the stamens become wider and wider until they 
resemble the petals; then we call them petaloids. In the same way the 
seed-bearing power is lost by the female parts, changing to resemble 
petals at the center of the flower. 

The following are the types recognized by the American Peony 
Society: 

^ 1. Single. There are a few broad petals, the center being filled with 
stamens. 

2. Anemone-flowered. The stamens are a trifle widened, closely 
resembles the Japanese. 

3. Japanese. In this type doubling has just begun; the filaments 
of the stamens have widened; the anthers are also much developed. 
The guard petals, the petals at the base of the flower, are the same as 
in the single varieties. 

4. Bomb. The petaloids, or the transformed stamens, have be- 
come still wider and thickly set; the petals approach the guards in 
form, but are still distinguishable from each other. 

5. Semi-double. Several rows of large petals and some with 
petaloids in all stages of transformation. A loose bloom. 

6. Crown. When the carpels, the parts of the pistil, transform 
into petals they may form a diff*erent center from the guard petals 




Peonies are glorious in a massed bed, equaUy striking 
when brought into the home, with their long stems 
and massive flowers 



130 GARDEN GUIDE 

and petaloids, giving the appearance of a small Rose in the center 
of the flower. 

7. Semi rose, 

8. Rose, A fully double form. The stamens and carpels are 
both transformed. It is really a developed Bomb, for in this case 
the petaloids are merely wider and indistinguishable from the guard 
petals. 

The following is a list of best varieties for home grounds: . 

Festiva maxima. White, center carmine; Marie Lemoine. A very late sulphur 

medium early. white. 

CouRONNE d'Or. a late-blooming, semi- Modeste Guerin. Bright rose pink; mid- 
double white. season. 

Monsieur Jules Elie. An early silvery Mme. Ducel. Silvery pink, flushed 

pink. salmon; vigorous dwarf; midseason. 

Grandiflora. Late, bright flesh pink. Mme. Verneville. Rosy white, with sul- 

DucHESSE DE Nemours. Deep pink, early; phur white guard petals. 

a fine double. Baroness Schroder. Flesh changing to 

Epulis superba. An early dark pink. white; vigorous; excellent. 

Felix Crousse. Midseason; a brilliant Livingstone. Fine late flower of silvery 

red. pink. 

Jeanne d'Arc. Large, soft pink; mid- Monsieur Dupont. Ivory white with 

season. lively carmine border on central petals. 

Avalanche. Milk white, with creamy La Tulipe. Semi-double; almost white; 

center. mid-season. 

Eugene Verdier. Salmon pink, chang- Delachie. Dark red; semi-double; raid- 
ing to clear pink. season. 

Planting and Cultivation 

The soil should preferably be heavy rather than light; a clay loam 
is excellent if it can be worked deeply. The Peony is a gross feeder and 
enjoys a good mulch of well rotted manure in the Winter. The time 
for planting is August or September, right after the plant has com- 
pleted its growth. If transferred in the Spring many of the feeding 
roots will be torn from the plants. The roots of the Peony are thick, 
almost no fibrous roots being formed; instead very fine, delicate 
feeding roots start from the main roots. • 

The plants should be planted at least three feet apart and the 
crowns should be buried three inches below the surface, and if planted 
too deeply, the plants will not flower freely. If they are planted 
too shallow the Winter frosts will heave them from the soil. The 
stalks should be cut off a few inches above the soil just before Winter. 
A Winter mulch of from four to six inches of well decayed manure will 
also prevent heaving and Winter inj ury . When the plants have finished 
blooming, the cultivation must not be neglected since they must make 
a good growth and mature their fohage, else the crop of bloom for the 
next year will suffer. Every five years the Peony should be divided 
and replanted, unless the plants stand far enough apart to allow root 
development. It takes two or three years for a commercial three- to 
five-eyed root to throw characteristic blooms. 



PEONIES 



131 



Preserving the Blooms 

Preserve the blooms after bringing into the house by stabbing or 
slitting the stems below the water line. 

Disbudding 

The albiflora varieties produce many buds in a cluster; if the best 
size blooms are preferred, all but the main or crown bud should be re- 




Types of Peonie s 

S. — Single, showing (g), guard petals; (s), stamens; (c), carpels or 

lobes of pistil. 
J. — .Japanese type; stamens wider than in Single. 

B. — Bomb type. The stamens become narrow petals, called peta- 

loids. 

SD. — Semi-double. Many petaloids are quite wide and are mixed 

among the stamens 

C. — Grown. The stamens are wider and petal-like. The carpels, 

which before have remained unchanged, are now petal-like. 
R. — Rose. In ^his type there is an entire transformation of that 

bloom. 



moved while they are yet small. Some weaker growing varieties are es- 
pecially benefited by this practice. Single varieties are not disbudded. 

Staking 

Certain very floriferous varieties will need some sort of support. 
One of the best and most permanent methods is to build a rack of wood 
over the Peony border and train the young shoots inside of this rack. 
For individual plants there is no better way than to use a barrel hoop 
supported on three uprights 



132 



GARDEN GUIDE 




Rack for supporting Peonies. Also used as a Tomato support 



Diseases 

There are several diseases which attack the leaves, buds and stems. 

They are easily kept in check by spraying with Bordeaux mixture 

when the plants first start into growth in the Spring. Besides this, the 

diseased parts and all stems should be burned each Fall, for only by 

careful sanitation can the trouble be lessened 
« 

PHLOX 

There are Phlox- 
es and Phloxes, 
dwarf sorts, and tall 
sorts, perennial 
kinds and annual 
kinds, huge flower- 
ing species and dain- 
tv, miniature-flow- 
^red species. They 
are all beautiful. 

The Perennial 
Phloxes or Hardy 
Phloxes, with their 
huge heads of gor- 

Phloxes give a mass of color and a fragrance welcome geOUS bloom, are the 
in every garden moSt COmmonly 

grown and give a mass of color and fragrance welcome in every garden. 
They are of easy culture and should be divided every three years. The 
superior named varieties should be grown. 




PHLOX 



133 



The following varieties are highly recommended by G. L. Thayer, 
special Phlox investigator at Cornell University: 



Asia. Light mallow purple, with small eye 

of amaranth purple. 
B. CoMTE. Vivid aster purple, with small 

eye of a darker shade. 
Baron von Dedem. Near begonia rose. 

with small eye of near rhodamine purple- 
Bridesmaid. White with large eye of. 

rhodamine purple. 
EcLAiREUR. Near aster purple, halo of 

light mallow purple and small eye of 

aster purple. 
Elizabeth Campbell. Begonia rose, shad- 
ing lighter toward center with small eye 

of rhodamine purple. 
F. G. VON Lassburg. White. 



Frau Bosch Bader. White, with small 
eye of near rhodamine purple. 

Hermine. White (10-12 inches). 

Inspector Elpel. Thulite pink, with 
small eye near rhodamine purple. 

Jeanne^ d'Arc. White (Late). 

Le Mahdi. Pansy violet, with small eye 
of violet purple. 

Miss Lingard. White with faint mark- 
ings at center of mallow pink. 

Miss Cook. White, with aster purple eye. 

Mme. Paul Dutrie. White, lightly suf- 
fused with deep rose pink, with small 
eye of rhodamine purple. 

Modesty. Light mallow purple, with 
rhodamine purple eye. 



The annual Phlox, Phlox Drummondii, are more dwarf and are 
found in more excellent colors than even the perennial sorts. Best 
success is attained by sowing the seeds indoors and giving them a 
little start before putting them in the open border. There is a group 
with fringed petals which are known as Star Phlox, or Quedlinburg 
Phlox; they are novel but less attractive than the type sorts. 

For the rockery and front of the borders of perennials a number of 
species is very useful. Of primary consideration is the Moss Pink 
(P. subulata) and its varieties. This species forms huge mats of color 
in the Springtime; pink, lavender, bluish and white sorts are obtain- 
able. Phlox divaricata is the wild Sweet William of our woods. It is 
most attractive, especially the varieties derived from the form Laphami. 

THE PINK • Dianthus 

The hardy Pinks rank with the time-honored gems of the old- 
fashioned garden. Splendidly adapted for beds and borders, they de- 
serve a place in every garden, not only on account of their great beauty 
and free-blooming qualities, but also for theii: usefulness as cut flowers. 
Throughout the Summer months they yield a profusion of single and 
double blooms which for brilliancy and variety of contrasting tints are 
unsurpassed; many of them are delightfully fragrant. They grow 
about a foot high, and there is nothing that shows to better advantage 
in bouquets or in house decorations. The varieties classed as annuals 
include the well-known China Pink (D. chinensis), the Japan Pink 
(D. Heddewigii), and the Diadem Pink (D. diadematus); while among 
the hardy perennial sorts the old-time popular Garden Pink (D. plu- 



134 



GARDEN GUIDE 



marius) still stands out as 
one of the handsomest, 
and an excellent subject 
for massing in the bed and 
ornamenting the border. 

There is now a strain 
of perpetual blooming 
hardy Pinks. Inquiry 
should be made for these 
from the first-class nur- 
series. The best annual 
varieties with double flow- 
ers furnish a blaze of 
color throughout the Sum- 
mer. They love sunshine. 

Pinks are propagated 
and cultivated in light soil 
enriched with well-de- 
cayed stable manure. Seed 
may be sown under glass 
in early Spring, or directly 
in the garden as soon as 
Hardy Pinks the frost has gone. Select 

splendidly adapted for bed and borders SUnny situation 

THE POPPY • Papaver 

The Poppy should be given a place in every garden, it is so graceful 
and delicate and beautiful. The Shirley Poppy is rightly considered 
the finest of the annuals. There is nothing more fairy-like than a bed 
of these grand single Poppies, with their long, slender stems surmounted 
by silken blooms of the most charming tints. As cut flowers in the house 
they are most attractive and will last for several days if gathered before 
expanding. There are many more splendid strains of annual Poppies, 
notably the double Peony-flowered, the fringed varieties and the dainty 
yellow-petaled California. 

The hardy perennial Oriental Poppy, with its gorgeous dark scarlet 
flowers, blotched black at the base of each petal, makes a highly pleasing 
show about the beginning of June. The stately Iceland Poppy (P. 
nudicaule), also a hardy perennial, with light green, fern-like foliage, 
bears a wealth of brilliant flowers on slim stems. These Poppies will 
bloom the first year from seeds. 

Seeds of annuals should be sown early in the Spring, scattered not 
too thickly and covered with a light sprinkling of soil. Thin out to 
five or six inches apart. They do not bear transplanting. When sown 




POPPIES 



135 



in the Spring Oriental Poppy plants die down in July and August, 
bul reappear in the Fall, when they should be removed to their per- 
manent quarters. 

SALVIA 

A favorite annual for bed or border is the Flowering Sage (Salvia), 
which is remarkable for its sturdy, bushy growth and freedom of bloom 
and keeps the garden bright with color from July until smitten by frost. 
The best of the Scarlet Sages are S. splendens and Bonfire. Seeds may 
be started in flats or hotbeds and the seedlings transplanted when the 
weather becomes warm and settled. 

SNAPDRAGONS • Antirrhinum 

It IS very interesting to grow amusing looking flowers; the Snap- 
dragon is such, for each flower is a lion's head; on,e must merely press 
the sides of the head and the mouth opens. Snapdragons are available 
in such a variety of excellent colors — yellow, ornage, red, pink, deep 
maroon, lavender and white — that they are adaptable for all situations 
in the garden. There are both tails and dwarfs; the medium height 
varieties are best. 

Snapdragons are of easy culture. The seed is best sown indoors 
in March or April and the seedlings transplanted. When about 
three inches tall the top should be pinched out; this causes the plant 
to branch. Subsequent pinching will also be of value. If the Snap- 
dragon plant seems to get rather sprawUng upon the soil give it a 
stake, slender and inconspicuous. Cut the spikes freely, it will en- 
courage others to grow. 

The plants may be troubled with aphis; if so, spray with nicotine. 
See chapter on Insect Pests for formula. 

SWEET PEAS 

The poet has a jingle upon Peas. He says: 

'* Peas along the border, Peas upon the lawn, 

Peas against an eastern wall to welcome in the dawn. 
Peas among the Roses, Peas behind the Pinks; 
Peas to catch the western glow when evening sunlight sinks. 
Peas upheld with Chestnut, Peas held up with Ash; 
Peas asprawl on Hazel spray, Peas on Larchen brash. 
Peas on stiff, unyielding wire. Peas tied up with string; 
Peas upon the trellis work where Rambler Roses swing. 
Oh I merry, merry, merry, are the gay Sweet Peas; 
Plant them when and how you will, it's certain they will pi 



It would appear from the foregoing that the answer to the question 
of where to plant Sweet Peas is * 'Everywhere," but the fact remains 
that Sweet Peas to give a measure of pleasure require much care. They 
should be planted on a well drained soil only, or one in which the 
excessive rains of Spring will not cause water to stand around the 
roots and start mildew. They endure little shade, for the plants 



136 



GARDEN GUIDES 



should make a sturdy growth. 
In the shade the growth is weak 
and spindly and but few flowers 
are produced. 

Place Peas, then, in the 
open, giving them all available 
hght and air, although a Uttle 
shade from midday suns of June 
and July is, of course, beneficial. 
Hot weather causes short stems 
on Peas and the best hay and 
grain weather ends them. 

Preparation of the Soil 

This is an important point. 
Peas like the cool soil and 
attempt to strike down 
deeply. Dig a trench two or 
three feet deep, break up and 
turn over the subsoil. Do not 
use if for top soil if it is poor. 
Put in a liberal amount of stable 
manm^e and work in a heavy 
dressing of bonemeal. This prep- 
aration should be made in the 

The Sweet Pea— perhaps the most dainty Fall and the bed left all Winter. 

of all flowering annuals ^^^len working over in the Spring , 

give a good, Uberal coating of well decayed manure or some fertilizer. If 
the soil is deficient in lime, dust the surface with fresh lime in Fall or 
Winter, using it as soon as slaked. As early as the ground can be pre- 
pared in the Spring, dig a trench or furrow five to six inches deep 
and six inches wide. Sow the seed on the bottom and cover with two 
inches of soil. As the vines grow up fill in the soil until level with the 
garden surface. Sweet Pea speciaHsts advise using a hberal quantity 
of seed, enough to make sure of securing a good stand, and when well 
started, thin the plants out to two to five inches apart. 
Sweet Peas are often sown in double rows five inches apart in the 
trench, with trellis or other support placed between. 

Sowing Seeds in Pots 
In order to gain a month in season Sweet Peas may be sown in 
three-inch pots in February and placed in a coldframe. But they are 
generally sown a month • before wanted for outdoor planting and a 
smaller pot is used. Four seeds are sown in each pot. The frame should 




SWEET PEAS 



137 




Roses on arches and Sweet Peas on trellises between. On either side 
are Rose beds in the lawn. Iris beds in the foreground 



ISS 



GARDEN GUIDE 



be thoroughly cleaned and dusted with soot or lime. They can stand 
quite a lot of cold, but do not have them wet at the same time. Trans- 
plant outdoors when possible; this is usually about mid- April. Nor- 
mally, the seed should be sown in open ground as early as March. 
As soon as the soil is warm enough the seeds will germinate. 

Fall Sowing 

For the Autumn sowing of Sweet Peas a piece of soil should be 
selected which will warm quickly in the Spring. Spade it up to good 
depth, two to three feet, but use no manure. Make a trench two inches 
deep and sow the seed thickly and cover with loose soil. When the 
seedUngs have germinated and freezing weather has begun, cover with 
four inches of coarse litter or straw, which must be removed in the early 
Spring after heavy frosts are past. The seed should be sown so that 
the shoots are just at surface of the soil when Winter sets in; therefore, 
sow in late October or early in Nevember, according to latitude. 

Summer Treatment 

Give frequent cultivation and when the plants are nicely budded 
work bonemeal into the soil along the rows. If conditions are very hot 
and dry give the plants frequent syringings, which will keep down 
the red spider, and will not allow aphis a chance to multiply. 

Staking 

Perhaps no method is so successful as the use of brush. Stretch- 
ing string from pole to pole is an easy way. Such cord can be easily 
removed when the Peas are through blooming. Coarse poultry yard 
netting is rather useful for supporting the vines, but has two objections: 
it must be cleaned each year, and it is thought to become heated a 
Uttle too much, causing the Sweet Pea vines to dry prematurely. 

Gathering the Flowers 

The flowers should be kept closely picked during the blossoming 
season, as the vines cease to bloom when the seed pods are allowed to set. 

SWEET WILLIAM 

Old-time gardens always provided a place of honor for the well- 
known Sweet Wilham (Dianthus barbatus), and among flower-lovers of 
the present day they are also held in high esteem. They are easily 
grown in any good soil and their trusses of bloom of bright and varied 
colors produce a beautiful efi'ect. The Sweet Wilham is classed as a 
perennial, but better results are obtained when it is treated as a bien- 
nial. It flowers the second year from seed. 

TRITOMA 

Among hardy perennial plants the Tritoma, with Red-hot Poker, 
Flame Flower and Torch Lily, as common names, occupies a prominent 



TRITOMA 



139 




place in th^ Autumn garden, where it is exceedingly effective grown 
in single clumps or mingled with 
shrubbery. It throws up spikes, 
two to four feet long, each bearing 
a compact cluster of dazzling 
scarlet or orange-red flowers, which 
present a most unique and pic- 
turesque appearance. The plants 
are very sturdy and remain in 
bloom after most other flowers 
have faded away. Raised from 
seed sown early in heat they may 
be expected to bloom the first 
year, but if immediate results are 
desired the purchase of strong 
roots is recommended. The variety 
Pfitzeri is especially good. Pro- 
tection in Winter is essential for 
the roots in all Northern gardens. 

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 

J 1 1 J The Tritoma 

Gigantic and clear colored it throws up spikes 2 to 4 ft. long of 

flowers of wondrous freshness and dazzling scarlet or orange red 

beauty, are the proper words to describe the Tuberous Regonia. 

Tubers may be purchased in March and are best potted in a 
mixture of sand, loam, and leaf mold. Plants can also be purchased 
from the florist. Planting in the open ground should be deferred until 
all danger of frost is past. They like the shade; the north side of the 
house is, therefore, ideal. They must have a loose, highly enriched 
situation, otherwise they will not be at their best. Planted among 
Rhododendrons in the leaf mold they succeed admirably. Take up the 
tubers in the Autumn and store through the Winter in sand or a sandy soil. 

ZINNIA 

Familiarly known as Youth and Old Age, the Zinnia stands in the 
front rank of garden favorites. It is, in fact, an indispensable annual, 
and never fails to give satisfactory results. Plants are readily raised 
from seed sown in the open ground early in Spring and make a luxuri- 
ant growth in beds and borders, attaining a height of two to three feet 
and blooming abundantly and continuously the entire season. The 
perfectly-shaped double flowers, many of them of immense size, embrace 
a wide range of beautiful colors. Those who have never tried the 
newer orange and scarlet varieties do not know what acquisitions 
they have missed, 



CHAPTER IX 

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants 

Notice that the Federal Horticultural Board at Washington has prohibited 
the importation of all bulbs except these six: Lily, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, 
Hyacinth, Tulip and Crocus. Lovers of bulbs should stock up at once as 
even these six may be prohibited before long. 

Preparation of Beds — Time of Planting^Planting — Naturalizing 
— Culture During the Season— Mulching After Planting — 
Descriptive List of Bulbs with Cultural Notes 

BULBS are not, as usually thought of, seeds or roots, but nearly 
mature plants already grown when we buy them; many of them 
even have stored in them the food for the leaves, flowers and roots. 
All we need to do is to place them under some favorable conditions for 
growth; then they send out their roots 
and by merely absorbing water produce 
their blooms. They are useful for the 
woods, the lawn, the border, the water 
garden, the rockery and the window in 
Winter; in fact, they have a most un- 
usual range of adaptability. 

Many readers will never try a single 
new bulb nor even read about any 
plant which is strange to them. They 
will never try an attractive clump of 
Eranthis hyemalis, the Winter Aconite, 
that very bright, cheery yellow flower of 
February or March; nor would they 
know of the striped Scilla, the Pusch- 
kinia libanotica, a dainty blue and 
white flower, which is of value but little 
known. Our suggestion is to try a few 
of the bulbs in the list that closes this 
chapter. They have been chosen be- 
cause they are really good. 

Preparation of Beds for Bulbs 

Nearly all bulbs succeed especially 
well on the sandier loams, but will 
even grow on nearly pure sand or heavy clay. The heavy clay soils 
are easily loosened by the addition of sand or coal ashes. Manure if 
used at all must be so thoroughly incorporated with the soil that it is 




Narcissus Glory of Leiden 

This is but one of scores of 
wonderful varieties 



14£ 



GARDEN GUIDE 



impossible for any of it to be in contact with the roots or bulbs, both 
of which appear to be very sensitive to manure. Bonemeal, spread 
over the soil at planting, is excellent. Leaf mold is ideal for mixing with 
the soil if it is obtainable. 

Time of Planting 

Some bulbs do not stand the cold ; they are planted in Spring and 
must be dug before Winter each year. Examples of such bulbs are: 
Gladiolus, Summer Hyacinth (Galtonia candicans), Montbretia, 
Tigridia, Tuberose, Zephyranthes, tuberous Begonia, Canna, Dahlia. 
Most other bulbs should^ be planted in the Autumn. It is best to plant 



I ill. 



2 in. 




This diagram shows approximately how deep and how far apart to plant the 
different kinds of hardy bulbs in light soil. In heavy soil plant an inch to an 
inch and a half nearer the surface 



them as soon as they can be obtained from the dealer. If they remain 
out of the soil too long much of the nourishment is evaporated. Es- 
pecially susceptible to deterioration due to deferred planting are 
Crocus, Lilies, Snowdrops and Fritillaria. This will bring the greater 
share of bulb planting in October. 

Planting Bulbs 

The rule for depth of planting is that they should be planted twice 
their diameter deep in the soil. This does not always apply, for it is 
usually better to get them a little deeper. The useful chart given on 
this page shows the depth to plant. It is advisable in planting choice 
sorts to set them on a layer of one or two inches of sando This will 
insure good drainage and keep bulbs from decaying. 



BULBOUS PLANTS 



143 



Naturalizing Bulbs 

For parks, groves, meadows and wild outlying grounds beyond 
the closely clipped lawn, a very pleasing style of naturalizing bulbous 
plants is coming much in vogue. Such bulbs should be used as can be 
planted in quantity, twenty-five to a hundred or more of a kind in a 
patch, and only sorts should be used as are hardy and will flower and 
thrive and increase with neglect; fortunately, in bulbous plants there 
are many that succeed even better in such rough places than in the 
prim garden; among them we will mention hardy Anemones, Crocus, 
Chionodoxas, Camassias, Convallarias, Daffodils, Dicentras, Ery- 
throniums, Funkias, Liliums, Narcissi, Scillas, Snowdrops, Trilhimis, 
and some of the late-flowering TuUps. The bulbs may be dibbled in 
when the ground is moist and soft during the Fall rains, but is is better 
to cut and turn back the sod here and there, place the bulbs under and 
press the sod back again. 

Culture During the Season 

When the bulbs are in bud a little liquid manure is very beneficial, 
resulting in a larger sized bloom. After blooming, the leaves must 
mature if the bulbs are to be depended upon for bloom another year. 
If it is absolutely necessary to remove the tops before they are brown 
the bulbs should be dug and heeled in or replanted in an out-of-the- 
way spot. They can remain here till the Fall planting time. 

Mulching After Planting 

When cold weather has set in and there is a crust frozen over the 
bed, a mulch of leaves, straw or like material should be used to the 
depth of three or four inches. It serves to protect from the destructive 
alternate freezing and thawing. (See Chapter XXI for discussion of 
Winter Protection.) 

Gamassia esculenta (Indian Quamash). This is a very dainty blue- 
flowering bulb, perfectly hardy. It blooms in the latter part of 
Spring and makes a good border subject. Plant the bulbs about three 
inches deep where they may have abundant moisture. 

GmoNODOXA (Glory of the Snow). Species: Lucilise, light blue, white 
center; sardensis, dark blue. The Ghionodoxas are very closely 
aQied to the Scillas and might easily be confused with them. They 
are early flowering, March or April, and are very efi'ective when planted 
in huge clumps in the border. They may be planted quite deeply — 
four to five inches is not too deep. Replant every third year, else 
they run out. 

Grogus. Species: vernus and susianus. The Grocus is as universally 
admired as any bulbous plant because it can be planted in great pro- 
fusion without much expense. The varieties are so bright and cheer- 
ful that they are exceUent planted either in lawns, in the herbaceous 
border or under trees. Especially attractive are bold clumps of one 
variety near evergreens. Grocuses must be planted in an open place 



144 



GARDEN GUIDE 



where they can get the sun in order to have them flower. New bulbs 
are produced above the old ones each year and the plant becomes 
higher and higher in the soil; they should thus be transplanted every 
third year. Good varieties are: King of Whites, white; Sir Walter 
Scott, white, reticulated, lavender; Albion, purple; Cloth of Gold, yellow. 
Crown Imperial. (See Fritillaria imperialism) 

Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite). This yields very cheerful yellow, 
star-shaped flowers and is very hardy, liking best to be planted in 
partial shade. It blooms as soon as the frost is out of the ground, 
whether it is February or April. Plant the small bulbs in clumps. 

Eremurus (The King's Spear). Species: robustus and himalaicus. This 
is a very stately subject for the garden. The spikes are frequently six 




Even the small backyard gardens can have a delightful display of choice 
Tulips, Narcissi and other bulbs. Just buy them and plant them 



to eight feet tall and are covered with white, pink or yellowish flowers, 
which continue to open for nearly a month. For some reason they 
are difficult to grow. Certain of the plants rapidly multiply and 
bloom, while others die out entirely. The bulbs should be planted 
rather shaUow, in a fairly rich but very weU drained soil. These 
plants are native to desert spots of Western and Central Asia. The 
matter of Winter protection is important, for the plants should be 
covered with leaves during the Winter and left till quite late, other- 
wise the young shoots will often be injured. The roots are quite fleshy 
and spread out in several directions; they should be planted as soon 
as received in November. 
Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial). The Crown Imperial, which 
was such a familiar feature of the gardens of our grandfathers' time, 
has been very much neglected of late. It is so stately that this is 
extremely strange. In the Spring, when the bulbs start into growth, 



BULBOUS PLANT 



145 



the stem elongates very rapidly until finally it is surmounted by a 
crown of flowing bells and a tuft of leaves. They are very interesting 
as seen in the distance, but even more so when examined carefully 
close at hand. The bulb seems very susceptible to any sort of injury 
and should not be kept out of the soil for any length of time. They 
should be planted about four or five inches deep and on their sides, be- 
cause they often decay easily. The bulbs should be set on several inches 
of sand. They enjoy a rather rich soil and when once established grow 
very easily. If the flower stem is a trifle weak give a little staking of some 
sort. Single and double, orange, scarlet and yeUow varieties can be had. 

Crown Imperials are often called Skunk Lilies. The reason is 
easily guessed but the fact is hardly objectionable, if one does not 
get too close to the plants. 

Qalanthus (Snowdrop). Species: nivalis and Elwesii. Not that the 
Snowdrop is really pretty, but because it is the first flower of Spring 
to bloom, we admire the little white inverted beUs as they peep through 
the snow. We plant it usually in huge clumps, for the individual 
flowers or plants are too tiny for a show. The clumps increase 
rapidly. Plant in diff'erent exposures for succession of bloom. 

Galtonia candicans (Summer Hyacinth) . Here is a bold, stately, bulbous 
plant which is very admirably used in the back line of a border. The 
tall spikes of inverted white beUs give a very pleasing efi'ect, and seem 
to contrast most exquisitely with many of the medium taU growing 
perennials, such as Monarda and Coreopsis, or with annuals such as 
Bachelor's Buttons and Snapdragons. The bulbs are not strictly hardy 
and must be dug each Autunm and planted the following Spring. 
Placing the bulbs about five inches deep serves to give the tall stems 
the proper support. It is frequently noted that the bulbs are not sure 
blooming, year after year. After blooming one year they frequently 
rest a year before blooming again. It is perhaps advisable to buy a 
new stock each year. 

Glory of the Snow. (See Chionodoxa.) 

Grape Hyacinth. (See Muscari.) 

Hyacinthus orientalis (Hyacinth). For garden culture many persons 
feel that the Hyacinth is a trifle stiff and formal, but there is a group 
known as miniatures, which are useful. They are cheaper and graded 
from the larger size bulbs. The spikes of the miniatures are graceful 
and produce a very pretty, loosely arranged spike of bloom. They are 
adapted to informal planting in the border and are useful for cutting. 
The larger varieties are known as Dutch Hyacinths and are adapted 
for more regular and formal planting. The Hyacinth appreciates a 
lighter soil than most bulbs, and it is advised to set the bulbs on a thin 
layer of sand. They, of all the bulbs, need protection in Winter. 

Indian Quamash. (See Camassia esculenta.) 

Iris xiphioides and xiphium (English and Spanish Iris). Unlike the 
German and Siberian, this class of Iris is bulbous. The bulbs are 
cheap, and yet so few of this class of Iris are planted that we wish to 
commend this excellent group. Plant them in good, friable, weU 
drained soil the latter part of September. They wiU bloom the next 
Spring in May. The Spanish Iris wiU start into growth immediately 
upon being planted. The English wiU wait till Spring before sprouting. 
The two sorts are easily distinguished. The English have wider petals 



146 



GARDEN GUIDE 



and are found in shades of blue and white 
only ; the Spanish are often yellow as well as 
blue, white, and other shades, and have 
comparatively narrow petals; they also 
bloom two weeks earlier. They are quite 
susceptible to a certain disease and to lessen 
its damage it is advised to take up the bulbs 
soon after their leaves have died down to 
the ground; they could then be planted 
again in September. 

Lilies. (See Contents.) 

MuscARi (Grape Hyacinth). Species: botry- 
oides and plumosus var. monstrosum. Here 
is a Httle gem for the garden. The blue and 
white miniature bells, when seen in mass, 
are most attractive either in the border or 
when naturalized in grass or woodland. 
There are several other forms which are in- 
tensely interesting, especially the plumed or 
feathery Grape Hyacinth (Muscari plumosum 
var. monstrosum). In this the flgral parts 



Narcissus poeticus, naturalized . / ^ 
Does not this lovely scene stir you to emulation? 




This represents a typical 
flower of a single Daffodil 
often, but wrongly, called 
Jonquil. The Jonquil 
much more resembles the 
Paperwhite, except that 
it is yellow. Daffodils are 
a large study in themselves 

are much elongat- 
ed and appear very 
feathery. It grows 
only six or eight 
inches tall and 
needs to be plant- 
ed in front of bor- 
der or in rockery. 

Narcissus. There are 
a great many 
types and species 
of Narcissus. So 
great is the differ- 
ence of opinion 
concerning them, 
even by botanists, 
that we will not 
try to present any 
complete outline 
of them, except to 
say that the fol- 
lowing may help 
to classify the va- 
rious types: 
Long Trumpet. To 
this class belong 
all varieties with 
distinct tubular 
centers which are 
as long as the 
outer parts of the 
flower. There are 



BULBOUS PLANTS 



147 



two groups of the long trumpet Narcissus; the self colors and the 
bicolors; besides these there are singles and doubles. The doubles 
are termed Daffodils. 
Doubles — Von Sion, properly called Telamonius plenus; very showy; an 
old variety; the flower usually referred to when the Daffodil is men- 
tioned. 

Pure White — Albicans odorata; perhaps the commonest white; the flowers 

are nodding. Madame de Graaff", largest; late. 
Pure Yellow — Ard Righ; early. Golden Spur; also early and is a sure 
bloomer. Emperor; excellent flower; good keeping qualities. Glory 
of Leiden; late; very fine; large. 
Bicolors — Empress; large, fine, rich yellow trumpet; companion in season 
to Emperor. Victoria; the earliest good, lasting one. Horsfieldi; 
good appearance in garden. 
Medium Trumpet. To this class belong all varieties with distinct tubular 
centers, which are about half as long as the outer parts of the flower. 
When the flower doubles the tubular centers are really present but are 
much divided. Some of the principal of the incomparabilis and Leedsii 
varieties are: Barrii conspicuous, light yellow bloom, the crown being 
edged orange red; Sir Watkin, large, bold, free flowering, most effective 
' for garden; Autocrat, very pretilly shaped canary yellow bloom which 
succeeds nicely. Mrs. Langtry, pale creamy yellow, good for cutting. 
Duchess of Westminster, a yellow and white flower, large and beautiful. 
Short Trumpet, To this class belong all varieties in which the tubular 
center is a mere cup or even a ruffle. The flowers of some of the varie- 
ties belonging to this group are borne in bunches of from three to ten 
blooms. They are called Tazetta or Polyanthus varieties. They are 
not hardy and should not be planted out of doors. Varieties representa- 
tive of this group are: the Chinese Sacred Lily, the Paperwhite Narcis- 
sus (which is so easily grown in pots)^ and the yeUow Soleil d'Or. Va- 
rieties which merely have a frill at the center are Poet's Narcissus. 
They are very adaptable to garden culture and often spread very 
rapidly. The catalogues term them poeticus varieties. They should 
not be confused with the Poetaz varieties, which are hybrids between 
poeticus and Tazetta; these are not very hardy. A third class are the 
Jonquils. Jonquils have very slender leaves; the flowers are either 
single or double, yellow and very fragrant; two to six flowers are borne 
on each stem; the trumpet is a little longer than the Tazetta varieties. 
The chief variety of Jonquilla is rugulosus. Jonquils are smaU and 
not hardy unless protected; they are worthy of pot culture. 

Cultivation. — Narcissus is one of the most persistent bulbous 
plants when once established. It, therefore, lends itself admirably to 
be planted by the thousands in grass for a naturalistic effect. Its 
natural method of rapidly dividing year after year insures its spreading 
widely. They also do weU in beds and borders. 

SciLLAS, or Squills. Species: sibirica (Siberian Squfll), campanulata 
(Wood Hyacinth), and bifolia. The Siberian Squill bears an intensely 
blue flower which is unexcelled for the planting of entire beds. The 
bulbs are extremely hardy, the beds needing almost no care. The Wood 
Hyacinths are white, Hght pink or blue, and are very showy used as 
clumps in borders or woodland. They much resemble the Hyacinth, 
except that the blooms are much more sparsely arranged. 

Snowdrop, (See Galanthus.) 



148 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Summer Hyacinth. (See Galtonia candicans.) 

Tulips. The finest garden subject among the Dutch bulbs is, in the 
opinion of many, the TuUp. It is so hardy, the colors are both dainty 
and vivid, the form is exquisite, and the ease of success commends it 
to every garden. The name has been derived from the Persian iolihan, 
or turban, which the flower resembles. There are a number of forms of 
Tulips, all of which are interesting. The earliest Tulips are of the 
Due Van Thol group {Tulipa suaveolens). The stems are rather short 
and they would not be commended for garden culture except for the 
fact that they are very early. They are usually characterized by 

rather pointed or 
laterally rolled 
petals. The mid- 
season Tulips oc- 
cupy most of the 
garden interest. 
Hundreds of va- 
rieties are pic- 
tured and des- 
cribed in the 
catalogues. This 
main group is of- 
ten termed the 
Gesneriana Tu- 
hps. It includes 
the peculiar fring- 
ed petaled group, 
known as the Par- 
rot or Dragon, to- 
gether with the 
Darwins with 
their subtle colors 
and long stems, as 
well as the May- 
flowering or Cot- 
tage varieties, 
which possess the 
long stems of the 
Darwins, but the 
blooms, instead of 
being globular, 
are more or less 
bell-shaped, the 
tips of the petals 
Tulips— Bouton d'Or being reflexed. 

The most handsome of the long-stemmed yellow Tulips With excellent ef- 
fect we have seen 

the exquisite scarlet Pride of Haarlem, a Darwin variety, growing in a 
bed of blue German Iris {pallida dalmaiica). When the Tulips have 
finished flowering the Iris begins and the color scheme is entirely 
changed in a few week's time. 

Water Lilies. {See Contents.) 

Winter Aconite. (See Eranthis hyemalis.) 




CHAPTER X 

Hardy Garden Ferns and Water Plants 

Fern Culture — Spores — ^List of Ffems — Waterside Plants — 

Water Lilies 

NORTHERN exposures and moist places always suggest Ferns. 
They are ustially somewhat fragile and must be protected 
from high winds. They need an abundance of water, but 
prefer good drainage. Furthermore, they should be planted where 
water will not continually drip upon them. Under trees they are 
especially successful where they take care of themselves nicely. They 
should be transplanted in early Spring or Fall — those in exposed places 
better in Spring. They may be planted in clumps of all of one species 
or they may be mixed. Among rocks, on a slope, is a very good place 
for them. They vary in height from four inches to four feet. Ferns 
possess creeping underground stems; some are deep, others are merely 
surface creeping; a few have thick, upright stems, which are hard to 
pull up. 

The soil that Ferns will like varies greatly. The best method of 
knowing what soil they need is to note where they grow naturally. 
In general, most ferns like a deep, rich, not too heavy soil — better 
with little peat in it. In their native habitat they have few or no 
enemies, but in the garden they are attacked often by wood lice, 
slugs, snails, caterpillars and the grub of the daddy longlegs. 

The Fern spores are very peculiar for they are produced in httle 
sling shots which are so small as to appear like brown spots on the 
lower sides of the leaves. Some persons have thought their Ferns 
unhealthy when they have seen these brown areas, but this is not the 
case, for it is the normal procedure to produce spores. When these 
sling shots ripen they burst open and scatter their contents. These 
spores, shed from the ripe sporangia, are thinly sprinkled on the surface 
of soil contained in well-drained pots, which are covered with glass and 
placed in saucers filled with water. The spores, instead of growing into 
a Fern that we would recognize, produce little green plants like a heart- 
shaped leaf, usually the diameter of a lead pencil. These green plants 
produce spores and it is from them that the characteristic Fern grows. 
The young plants should be pricked out into .pans and when large 
enough transplanted to three-inch pots. The roots in time fill these 
pots and the plants are then ready for removal to more permanent 

149 



150 



GARDEN GUIDE 




S. — Unripe spore case of a fern (greatly magnified) 
Sp. — The spore case burst and throwing its spores 
r*. — The green growth that comes from a spore and which give rise to the little fern 

plant (f) 




1. — Fern plant bearing a frond. Each division of the frond is called a pinnule (plural, 
pinnae) (P.) This frond is covered with dot-like masses which are the spore cases (Sp.) 
At the base of the plant is a young frond (c) growing from the root stock (R) 
2. — Pinnule of Dryopteris. 3. — Pinnae of Adiantum 
4. — In certain ferns the leaflets or pinnae that bear spore cases are much changed, as for 
example in Osmunda regalis, the Koyal Ferq 



HARDY FERNS AND WATER PLANTS 151 



quarters in larger pots. The best time for repotting Ferns is j ust before 
growth starts in Spring. If the crowns are numerous they can be 
divided. Care must be taken that the pots are well drained by means 
of broken crocks. There are many kinds of Ferns. We name the 
following: 

Adiantum pedatum (Maidenhair). Prefers a well-drained, light soil* 

It is of a poor color when grown in the sun. 
AsPiDiUM. ^(See Dryopteris). 

AsPLENiuM ACROSTiCHOiDES. Moisture loving; some shade. Endures 
sunlight if cool. 

ANGUSTiFOLiuM. Avoid the removal of old fronds. New crop springs 
t%) and weakens the plant. 
AsPLENiuM FiLix-FCEMiNA (Lady Fern). Good, rich loam, moist. Ex- 
cellent, well formed fronds, which are very variable. 

piNNATiFiDUM. A small evergreen fern found in depth of glens. Useful 
for planting between stones. 

PLATYNEURON (Ebouy 

Spleen wort). 
Trichomanes. a rock 
garden plant. 
Gamptosorus rhizoh- 
PYLLUS (Walking 
Fern). Prefers dry 
ledges. 

Cheilanthes lanosa. 

Prefers deep shade. 
TOMENTOSA. Prefers 

less shade; more 

moisture. 

Fendleri. 
Gystopteris bulbifera. 

Plant in shade upon 

a moist bank. 
FRAGiLis. Fronds die 

early in August. 
Dennst^dtia {Dick- 

SOnid) PUNCTILOBULA 

' (Hay-scented Fern). 
Heavy growth. Grow 
for cutting for Sum- 
mer. 

Dryopteris (Aspidium) 
BooTTii. Does not 
need Winter shade. 
CRIST AT A, var. Glin- 
TONiANUM. Swampy 
ground. 
FiLix-MAS (Male Fern). 

Rich soil; deep shade. Moisture loving plants bordering the water 




152 



GARDEN GUIDE 




Flagstone path through bog-garden and semi-wild 
garden. Good use can be made of Gunneras, Spiraeas, 
Japanese Irises, Knot-grass, Giant Reed and similar 
plants 



G OLDIE AN A. Cool, rich 
soil. Good in acid 
soil or leaf mold. 
Large, heavy 
growth. 
MARGINALS. When 
transplanted in 
fuU leaf the 
plants rarely sur- 
vive. Like a rich, 
moist soil and 
deep shade. 

NOVE BORACENSIS. 

Not good for cut- 
ting. Easily 
transplanted. 
SPiNULosA, var. in- 
termedia (Spin- 
ulose Shield Fern) 
Good in wet, and 
under trees as 
well. 

Thelypteris. Par- 
tial shade in 
marshes. 
Lygodil^m palmatum 
(The Chmbing 
Fern; Hartford 
Fern) . This fern 
is difficult to es- 
tablish. It is 
moisture loving. 

On OGLE A SENSIBILIS 

(Sensitive Fern). 
AVet ditches £ind 
rich, moist soil; 
* partial shade. 



SxRurmoPTERis (Ostrich Fern). Burns in full sunshine. 
OsMUNDA ciNTS^AMOtEA (Cinnamon Fern). Moist, rich. 
Clayton'la.na (Interrupted Fern). Move while dormant. 
REGALis. Peaty; branching; edges of brooks. 

PoLiTODiuM YULGARE {CommoTi pofypody). Can be planted up the 
ledges of gorges. 



WATERSIDE PLANTS 

The selection of plants suitable for the water and waterside 
is a large one, chief among the first named being, of course, the 
true Water Lilies or Nymphxas, while the Rice Plant, or Zizania, 
the Flowering Rush, or Butomus, also various of the Reed Maces or 
Typhas can be used with success, 



HARDY FERNS AND WATER PLANTS 153 



Among the waterside plants (frequently spoken of as bog plants) 
are the Globe flowers (Trollius), the stately scarlet Lobelia in several 
varieties, a selection of Loosestrifes, particularly the one called Ly- 
simachia clethroides, and the gay Monkey -flowers (Mimulus), in- 
cluding cardinalis and Lewisi. The beautiful Moccasin Flower, called 
Cypripedium spectabile and other hardy orchids are suitable for the 
drier parts of the ground. The list, however, could be greatly enlarged. 

Water Lilies 

A Lily pond or tank, its surface covered with the charming flowers 
of its aquatic plants, is regarded as an indispensable acquisition in any 
well arranged garden, for it furnishes a decorative efi'ect as unique as 
it is handsome. The culture of new kinds of Water Lilies has made 
great progress in recent years and there are now to be had a large num- 
ber of varieties which produce flowers of unusual beauty, ranging in 
color from pure white to red, rose, pink, crimson and blue. 

William Tricker, of Arlington, N. J., who specializes in Water 
Lilies, says: * 'These are universally grown, at least where horticulture 
is one of the fine arts. They are indigenous to all parts of the world, 
but in no part can all species and varieties be grown to equal such as is 
possible in our own clime. Here, in a well appointed garden, or in our 
public parks and gardens, can be seen our own native species, the 
European and the many hybrids, the Japan and Egyptian Lotus, the 
Mexican species, the African, Zanzibar and Australian species and 
hybrids which are various shades of blue, also specimens from tropical 
India, where the flowers open at night shielded from the burning rays 
of the sun and, last but not least, the giant Victorias from South Amer- 
ica, V. regia from the region of the Amazon and V. Trickeri from 
Argentina, the tributaries of the Parana river. 

"Water Lilies are as indispensable as hardy perennial and other 
decorative plants. Associated with ornamental sub-tropical plants 
they lend a most pleasing and charming effect to the landscape. They 
are also valuable as cut flowers, especially the tender varieties, both 
day and night bloomers. The day bloomers furnish superb flowers 
on long stems in red, white and blue colors. The night blooming va- 
rieties possess a charm distinct from all others, the colors varying from 
pure white to pink with shades of red, carmine and crimson, which are 
very brilliant under artificial light. They are of simple culture, requir- 
ing a moderately rich soil, water and sunshine. The hardy varieties 
should be planted in May in this latitude, and on until the middle of 



154 



GARDEN GUIDE 



August. The tender Water Lilies should be planted about the first of 
June, when warm, settled weather is assured. Keep the pond filled 
with water to supply loss by evaporation, but springs and running 
streams must be avoided as they lower the temperature of the water 
to a dangerous degree." 

Most seed houses will supply plants and complete cultm-al direc- 
tions on application. 



For a complete ivork on the subject of this chapter, 
we recommend 

THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING, by Peter Bisset. Contains all 
the practical information necessary to the selection, grouping and successful 
cultivation of aquatic and other plants required in the making of a water 
garden and its surroundings. Illustrated. 200 pages. 7MxlO i?i. Price, 

$2.65, postpaid. 

Secure this book where you boujht your Garden Guide. 




Pond with Water Lilies 

There are many places that could be converted into pools for Water Lilies, 
even in small gardens. The pools or ponds should be 2 ft. to 2}^ ft. deep. The 
plants can be placed in boxes or hampers of a size 2x2x1 ft., or a system of 
half-barrels or hogsheads can be arranged in a chain, with water running between 
each. Sometimes a number of barrels are arranged together, either sunk 
in the soil or grass, or arranged a little above, suflBlciently close to have soil 
filled between them, and Papyrus, Reeds, and other plants planted therein 



CHAPTER XI 



The Rock Garden 

Region adapted for Rockeries — Japanese Gardens — Construction 
of Rock Gardens — Material for Rock Gardens 

THOSE persons who like imported products of every kind will 
prefer to call these Alpine Gardens. There are so many parts 
of the United States where rocks abound that it is very peculiar 
that more really good rock gardens are not to be seen. 

We do not wish to advocate the estabhshment of a garden of 
this sort where the rocks must be moved a great distance. We feel 
that such a feature as this in the prairie region is rather incongruous'; 
besides, the cost is prohibitive. There are, however, certain regions 
which are well adapted for informal rockeries. Central Park, at the 
center of New York City, has wonderful outcrops of granite, in which 
are all sorts of crevices and holes for plants. Rochester, N. Y., has 
an abundance of peculiarly weathered limestone formations which 
are very useful. Each vicinity has a different sort of native rock 
formation, so that the type of planting will greatly differ. Rocks 
should hardly be placed for a definite display of themselves, for they 
should be the background. 

We have only to visit Japan or read of her gardens; they are rock 
gardens; they are really rock landscapes. In them we find that rocks 
are as important as plants. We discover their arrangement studied. 
We hear that imperial edicts have been sent out from time to time 
prohibiting the price which may be paid for rock. It seems that 
during one of the dynasties the interest in foreign rocks was so great 
that such an edict was necessary. If we should remark to the Japan- 
ese gardener that a collection of rocks such as he has in his landscape 
is mere geology, he would ask us what difference it made so long as 
the whole was beautiful and meant something. He would continue 
to say that our own American gardens do not have any real significance. 
Few of the Japanese gardens in America have the real essential features. 
The American wants to use the Japanese material, but not understand- 
ing the Oriental arrangement he prefers an arrangement which he has 
imagined is the real way the Japanese gardens look. For one who 
cannot read Japanese, two pages of a Japanese book look enough 
alike to be equally well covered with interesting characters. So with 
a garden; one which is American using Japanese plants and receptacles 
looks superficially like the real Japanese arrangement. 

155 



THE ROCK GARDEN 



157 



We have digressed, but we must return to our own country where 
the conditions are really quite beneficial for rock features. An ideal 
situation is one where the plants are protected with snow during the 
Winter and not subjected to extremely hot conditions in Summer. 
The moist, cool rock crevices lend themselves most admirably to this 
treatment. 

Construction 

The amount of construction necessary will vary according to what 
is at hand to begin with. Let us suppose that we have a rocky bank 
which may even be a sort of supporting wall; perhaps we have a small 
brook whose sides we would like to plant, or we may have to construct 
the garden from the start. 

The first case, that of a rocky bank or wall, is the simplest to 
manage. It may be necessary to use a wedge to open up some of the 
cracks so that they become larger; these should be filled with a rather 
rich, not too light, soil consisting of good loam and one-fourth manure. 
It is advisable to have all the crevices open into areas of soil. This 
we cannot do upon natural rock banks. With these natural rock 
gardens we must take a chance as to the depth of the crack and soil. . 

In planting a brookside, boulders and rocks will be available 
usually. The problem here is to build up the rocks informally and 
with soil between them. Many an innocent Summer brook is a bad 
marauder in the Spring. Confine your efforts to the areas above the 
flood and perhaps sow a few annuals near the water. Do not spend 
too much energy arranging the rocks nicely in the basin of the brook. 
The water will no doubt destroy all your efforts. 

When we must construct an entirely new rockery the problem is 
. greater. It should run nearly north and south; this will provide 
various exposures for different plants. Above all things, avoid any 
cut stone, brick or anything artificial. Statuary is never at home in 
a rock garden. If the gard*en must be made from flat land the best 
thing to do is to dig out a little valley, running it very irregularly. 
The soil removed can be used to build up on the sides, so that the 
little vale appears deeper than it is. Shrubs can be planted about 
the mound on the outside. It must be added that there is danger in 
having a wet hole instead of a beautiful rock garden if the created 
valley has poor drainage. This building up of the soil must be done 
in a very irregular way and care should be taken that the top soil is 
saved from the land which will be covered, for it will again be needed 
to cover the subsoil laid bare. 

When the soil has been removed the rocks can be placed. They 
should never be arranged in correct tiers, nor should the direction of 



I 

158 



GARDEN GUIDE 



the strata in the rock be seriously changed. The sketch shows the 
strata of the rocks naturally arranged and provided with a dip which 
will catch the moisture. Leave plenty of soil space between the 
rocks and plan little pockets to catch the water. Provide drainage 
by the use of a quantity of ashes or fine gravel in the center of the 
mound. The rocks get very hot and some plants may dry readily. 
If a little water can be provided it should be conducted to the top 
and allowed to seep down through the crevices. In Winter a protec- 
tion of straw and decayed manure over the plants will be beneficial 
It is best not to remove this protection too early. Neglect it a bit. 
Evergreen branches are excellent for those covering plants which do 
not die down each year. 

Material for Rock Garden 

The rock garden is essentially a wild feature and a 
great deal of native material should be used. No varie- 
gated or freak horticultural varieties should be 
introduced. Even fancy and well bred varie- 
ties are better when absent. We refer to 
dressy varieties as the Mme. Chereau German 
Iris or^ in fact, anything 
of this sort. It is well to 
grow in the rockery the 
interesting little plants 
which need special at- 
tention to be seen prop- 
erly. 

Bulbs are excellent. 
Snowdrops, Narcissus, 
Scillas, Fritillarias, and 
Crocuses are all quite 
necessary. 

Large trees should 
be avoided and some 
trees especially ; for example, Hawthorns and Elms require much water 
and should never be planted. The smaller evergreens, Junipers, Arbor 
Vitaes, broad-leaved evergreens, Yucca and Cacti are excellent. 

If the rock area is extensive and a very quick result is wished, the 
use of annuals is excellent. Dr. Southwick has used annuals most 
effectively in his **Garden of the Heart" in Central Park, N. Y. The 
otherwise objectionable colors of Petunia are there very cheery. 
Lobelia erinus is indispensable. California Poppies, either the golden, 
the crimson or the white ones, are very pretty. Baby's Breath (Gyp- 




Diagram to show, in a general way, the placing 
of the boulders or large stones in the making of 
rock garden. A shelving arrangement is adopted, 
leaving spaces, called pockets, between the stones. 
These should be arranged so as to catch the rain. 
At the same time the water must pass readily away 
through drainage channels 



THE ROCK GARDEN 



159 



sophila muralis, the pink, or elegans, the white) adds a graceful touch. 
The ornamental grasses look well combined in various places with the 
various blooming perennials. The annual Larkspurs and Lupines 
are both good blue subjects. Portulacas, Sanvitalias, Bouncing Bet 
(Saponaria ocymoides) and Nemophila are of just the proper habit 




This picture shows a closer, more intimate view of a rock garden. In this instance 
it is employed most fittingly as an ornamental feature between the inner flower 
garden and the outer semi-wild parts 



for the rockery. Speaking of rock gardens in California, even as far 
south as Los Angeles, a writer in a paper there says: * 'These rock 
gardens are positively alluring, for if one but follows a bank having 
a turn in direction of but a quarter circle he may find at one end the 
Edelweiss of the European Alps, and at the other, through gradual tran- 
sitional plant zones, cacti from the desert sands. Next to the alpines 
is often brought in fern dells with trickling streams and waterfalls." 

(For Perennials useful for Rockery, see Contents.) 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention if 
you do not use the Index freely. 



CHAPTER XII 



Garden Furniture 

Benches — Rustic Chairs, Seats, Screens, Trellises, Pergolas, 
etc. — The Garden House — Fountains — Bird Baths 

A GARDEN of any size should not be without a garden seat, a 
bird bath and similar adjuncts. Convenient seats and appro- 
priate garden accessories should be a great joy. Inappropriate 
and mean-nothing garden features should always be avoided. Pergolas 
which lead nowhere nor do not hold up vines are out of place. Garden 
fences which are too fantastic are Uke the too frequent highly ornate 
vases used in our homes for the simplest flowers. Furthermore, the 
style of the house and the manner of planting will largely determine 
the propriety of every garden seat, bird house or fence. 

• 

Garden Benches 

An excellent, substantial garden bench may be constructed quite 
cheaply. A working drawing for such a bench is shown. It is made 
entirely of three-inch stuff, and can be either longer or shorter than six 
feet. It has been thought best to place the legs one foot from each end 
of the bench, unless the bench is shorter, when it will be better to have 
them six inches from the end. Four designs are here found for the ends. 
They are merely suggestive; others may be used just as well, but they 
should be simple and in every case should be wide at top and bottom. 
Small brackets are placed under the top on each side of the legs. They 
are made of two- or three-inch material, being three inches on a side. 
If one prefers, three long screws may be placed through the top of the 
bench into the standards. In order to give the legs a good standard, 
they are faced on all sides at the base with a strip of two by two and 
one-half-inch stuff. The bench may be painted white, light gray or 
green. 

Rustic Woodwork 

For this work there are a number of good sorts of wood. Some 
are used with the bark and other wood is peeled before using. Hickory, 
red Cedar, Cherry, Blackthorn, Birch, Larch and Fir are used with 
the bark. Such wood should be used only when dry and is best cut in 
the Winter, when little sap is flowing. It is stored to dry and season. 

To make the chair (on p. 163), select two back poles which have 
nearly the same curve, then the front posts which are nearly straight. 
There are two ways the parts may be joined, the first way being to bore 
holes in both of the uprights and crosspieces and fit pegs or dowels of 

160 . 



162 



GARDEN GUIDE 



ash or elm into them. The other method is to make a tenon at the 
end of the one piece and a hole to receive it in the other. This latter 
method is not as strong and is usually harder to make. In both cases 
the parts should fit very tightly. When putting together finally, 
coat all joints with white lead thinned with boiled linseed oil. It is 
best to put a nail or screw in all important joints and wipe off the 
surface white lead which may remain. The 
seat is made of split wood beveled at ends 
to fit on the main stays. If the seat does 
not seem perfectly solid, a brace or two can 
be fitted in from below and the seat nailed 
to it. Many ingenious garden benches, 
screens, trellises and pergolas may be made 
in this way. Care must be taken that all 
such furniture or bridges are perfectly strong. 
Our recollection of rustic things is that they 
are frequently out of repair. All sharp twig 
stubs must be removed and care should be 
exercised to keep all nails from sight or from 
doing injury. 

Garden House 

The garden house offers possibilities for 
the enjoyment of the mistress of the house as 
well as furnishing an ideal playhouse for the 
children. Every child likes a playhouse. He 
thinks it is his own house. It is well to place 
the garden house in the shade of a large tree 
where it will be cool afternoons. It should be 
built so that it can receive air from all sides. 

For the man who is handy with tools there is ample scope through 
the Fall and Winter for the exercise of his talent in the fabrication of 
all manner of garden furniture. If one possesses a comfortable cellar, 
that will be found a good workroom in the short days, the material 
having been accumulated prior to Winter weather. 

Sun-Dial 

An interesting object among the furnishings of a formal garden is 
a sim-dial mounted on a decorative pedestal. This is an instrument 
that measures time by means of the shadow of a gnomon or style 
thrown on a metal dial plate upon which the hour lines are traced. 
Writing of the sun-dial, Charles Lamb remarks: *Tt was the primitive 
clock — the horologe of the first world — and stood as the garden god 
of Christian gardens." 




A "step-ladder" column 
supporting a dove cote 
and bearing a climbing 
plant 



GARDEN FURNITURE 



163 





Making a Rustic Chair 

A, side; b, back; c, front; d, seat; 
e, method of holding chair together 
by use of pegs, filled into holes 
bored into corresponding parts; f, 
method of making tenons without 
boring holes for insertion of pegs 



164 



GARDEN GUIDE 




Design for a Rustic Bridge 




A Rustic Arch 




A dainty Trellis, which can be made in wrouglkt iron or wood 

This design we reproduce from the country estate catalogue of the London firm of 
Wood & Son. The hurdles are 6 ft. long, with a stay to each, bolted with nuts, and 
are painted any color. The height is 5 ft. from the ground. 



GARDEN FURNITURE 



165 




Trellised Arches 

Another of Wood & Son's designs. These can be made in wood 
or v/rought iron. The arches are 9 ft. high, composed of ornamental 
standards, the width of the arches being 6 ft. 



Fountains 

The fountain need not be the possession of the large estate owner 
alone, for it may merely be an inch pipe conducted underground 
to a convenient spot where a pool can easily be constructed of concrete. 

In many places the pool 
should not be the con- 
ventional circular pool, 
but the border should 
be irregular and covered 
with a naturalistic plant- 
ing. Fountains may be 
of the gurgly, squirty or 
spray sort; all are pretty. 
To some the squirty 
sort have an air of im- 
patience or nervousness 
which makes them only 
useful at some distance 
from the garden seat. 
On the other hand, cer- 
tain fountains give a 
restful, cool aspect to 
the garden, which is 
greatly enjoyed. There 




An airy, rustic pavilion 



166 



GARDEN GUIDE 




A Bird Bath 

in the garden in the form of 
a basin set upon a stone 
pedestal or column. Some 
dwarf, neat growing water 
plants may be kept in the 
basin, such as Umbrella Plant 
and Parrot's Feather. A 
stone in the bowl affords a 
plaoe for the birds to stand. 



seems a universal enjoyment of water. 
Here the birds come, here plants may be 
growTi, and here goldfish may be kept, 
and being fed at a certain time each day 
will become tame enough to take the food 
from the hand. 

By one or all of these various ad- 
juncts, appurtenances, garden ornaments, 
garden furniture, the beauty and comfort 
of the place can be considerably enhanced. 
The making of many of these things will, 
like the garden work itself, furnish agree- 
able recreation for many a hoHday, Satur- 
day afternoon or other period of one's 
leisure. 




Rustic Seat 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention 
if you do not use the Index freely. 



CHAPTER XIII 



Window Boxes and Porch Plants 



Self -Watering Boxes — Porch Boxes — Hanging Baskets — Concrete 
Boxes — Wicker Window Boxes — Plants for Window Boxes 

THERE are many enthusiastic gardeners for whom the force of 
circumstances rules that the window or porch garden is their 
only form of flower growing possibility. To others the porch 
decoration has much to do with the whole appearance of the house. 
One word before we mention the kinds of plants and boxes to use. 
Many persons of exceptionally good taste in their home and garden 
seem to think that a discarded water tank ^ for a receptacle, and a 



A gay scene at Portland, Oregon. The boxes are filled chiefly with Petunias 

straggly display of hideous colors are the requirements for a porch 
garden such as we are to consider. This is not true. The container 
for the flowers should be of the same color as the house, or else of a 
harmonious shade. The plants should be thickly set in the box and, 
contrary to the most common usage, the colors should be an excellent 
"contrast or a perfect harmony. 

The porch box should rarely be deeper than nine inches, from 
nine to twelve inches wide, and of any length. It will be much easier 
to handle a box not longer than three feet. It is suggested, therefore, 




167 



168 



GARDEN GUIDE 



that a number of boxes be used if the area to be decorated is longer. 
The boxes should always be made rather solidly. Often they can be 
bracketed to the porch; when this is not possible some simple standard 
can be devised. If legs are placed on the box they should be a trifle 
wider apart at the floor. Round urns or hanging baskets are prefer- 
able to most boxes which must stand on the porch. 

Self- Watering Boxes 

Self-watering boxes made of iron are on the market. There is a 
small reservoir for water at the base; sponges communicate the water 
to the soil. The boxes need watering only every week or ten days. 
They cost from $1.50 to $4, according to their size and amount of 
ornament. Care must be taken that drainage is good and the reservoirs 
are not filled too full of water. 

Porch Boxes or 
Hanging Baskets 

Porch boxes or 
hanging baskets are 
easily made. White 
pine, red cedar or 
cypress are the best 
woods. They are less 
injured by the con- 
tinual moisture re- 
(luired in a box of this 
sort. When finished 
they may simply be 
painted to match the 
house or they may be 
covered with cedar or 
other bark. They 
may be shghtly 
decorated by using 
crosspieces of fine 
twigs. 

Excellent hanging 
baskets are made 
from heavy ox muz- 
zles. Rend the muz- 
zle so that it is flat- 
ter and more basket- 
shaped, attach three 




WINDOW BOXES AND PORCH PLANTS 169 



wires or chains, and 
the hanging basket 
is ready for use after 
Hning with pieces of 
moss to that soil may 
be retained. The 
same type of wire 
basket may also be 
purchased. Special 
hangers may be 
bought which can be 
attached to the or- 
dinary flower pot, 
converting it into a 
•hanging basket. They 
are useful for speci- 
men Ferns or trailing 
plants. 

Concrete Boxes 

Concrete boxes or 
urns are very heavy 
but are good, the 
main difficulty being 
that very simple de- 
signs 'are essential, 
otherwise the boxes 




Concrete window box as an integral part of the 
building ; in this case a garage 



appear very clumsy. If very fine sand is used in their manufacture, 
or when given a fine finish, they are very attractive. 

Wicker Window Boxes 

For either indoors or outside, the wicker window boxes present a 
good appearance. They are excellent filled with Boston Ferns and 
cost from $3 to $15, according to height and length. Excellent long 
plant baskets 'are now offered for sale by all florists which are very 
handy to place upon the window sill. For the indoor window garden 
receptacles made of plaster of Paris^ are rather pretty, but are very 
easily chipped and broken and are not to be advised. 

ExceUent boxes are made up entirely of Geraniums, the tall va- 
rieties for the background and a row of the Ivy Geraniums for the 
front. Nothing is more effective than a box composed of pink and 
white Geraniums, never pink and red. Fuchsias can be used hkewise 
in combinations of several varieties. 



170 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Plants for Window Boxes 



For Shady Situations 
Tuberous Begonias 
Begonia semperflorens 
Fuchsias 
Cobaea scandens 
Vinca 

Foliage Geraniums 
Crotons 

Funkia variegata 
Ferns 
Palms 
English Ivy- 
Trailing Euonymus 
Wandering Jew 



For Winter Effect 
Box (Buxus) 
Dwarf Thuya 
Dwarf Retinispora 
Irish Juniper 
Hemlock, small plants 
White Pine, small plants 
English Ivy- 
Trailing Euonymus 

For Sunny Situations 
Geraniums, tall 
Ivy Geranium 
Petunia 

Ageratum Houstonianum 



For Sunny Situations 
Cobaea scandens 
Phlox Drummondii 
Nasturtiums 
Verbena 
Lobelia erinus 
Coleus 
Lantana 

Cigar Plants (Cuphea) 
German Ivy, or Wandering 

Jew 
Portulaca 

Mesembryanthemum 
Sweet Alyssum 




Entrance porch and window box. Ampelopsis Veitchii is well and freely used 



Dracaena indivisa is always useful in the porch bc5X. When its 
usefulness in the box is over it may be potted and kept all Winter. 

The excellent clear colors of Verbenas are always admirable when 
used alone or in combination. They flower profusely and continue 
fresh in appearance. 

The Nasturtium is incomparable for filling urns or for porch 
decoration. For a northern exposure the tuberous Begonia is excellent. 
The colors of the single as well as the double varieties are very effec- 
tive. They should always have the best soil available. 



WINDOW BOXES AND PORCH PLANTS 



171 



The best vine for trailing over the edge and extending downward 
for five or six feet is the German Ivy. If this has grown into quite a 
jungle when procured from the florist, cut it back and let it start out 
gracefully. Yinca, or Periwinkle, a variegated green and white vine 
of exceeding long growth, is everybody's favorite. It stands adverse 
conditions. Cobaea scandens will trail down or chmb up. Creeping 
Jenny (Lysimachia Nummularia) succeeds admirably in shade and, 




Nothing better bespeaks home joys, grace and comforts than a well-filled 

window box 



furthermore, in some sections of the country it can be gathered from 
the wild. Kenilworth Ivy (Linaria Cymbalaria), a neat, nearly hardy, 
lavender-flowered trailer, can be tried, also Asparagus Sprengeri, a 
plant popular with the florist and very useful in the window box. 

Trailing plants of less rampant growth include: Lobelia erinus 
(not the compacta variety) ; the flowering habit is unexcelled. Another 
blue is the Ageratum, which, like Lobelia, is always in bloom, and 
it is fragrant. The trailing varieties of Coleus have a good habit, 
but the colors are much mixed. Verbenas and Petunias are useful 
by themselves as well as the front margin of the box. 



172 GARDEN GUIDE 

A little plant useful for the more personal porch boxes is the 
Forget-me-not. It is not very permanent but will bloom when many 
of the other plants have only started growth. When it finishes bloom- 
ing It may be dug up. The remaining plants will, no doubt, keep up 
the foliage and flower effect. 




Paneled window box showing bracket sup- 
ports, also side brackets above, for plants 



For the green and more formal window box, plants of Aucubas 
can be procured from the florist. In Wmter the plants are useful on 
enclosed porches. 




Self-watering window box 

This shows body of box, false bottom. (B) Above water chamber or reservoir. (W) 
and two sponges (S) by which the water passes up to the soil. The water supply 
'IS replenished through a tube in the right-hand back corner (T) 

All boxes should be raised a little above the base or siU on which 
they rest, otherwise both box and sill quickly rot. The self-watering 
type prevents dripping, but even they require attention on hot days, 
especially when in sunny positions. 



CHAPTER XIV 

The Vegetable Garden 

Growing Plants for Setting Out — Digging and Preparing the Soil 
— Sowing and Transplanting — Watering — General Principles, of 
Cultivation — Harvesting and Storing — Companion Crops — Suc- 
cession Crops — Cultivation of the Chief Vegetables — Useful 
Pointers for the Vegetable Grower — Labeling Plants 

[It will be noted that we have not mentioned varieties throughout this 
chapter. These are' chosen from the catalogs of your favorite seedsmen to 
suit soil, location and individual preferences.] 

WHEN the Spring comes everybody thinks, or ought to think, 
about gardens. Professor L. H. Bailey says: "The nature- 
desire may be perpetual and constant, but the garden-desire 
returns with every new Springtime." The possibilities of the garden 
are very great, and the home or kitchen garden has become a national 
and economic necessity as an adjunct to every home with a plot of 
round, no matter how small. A bountiful provision of clean, newly 
gathered produce, secured within a few yards of the kitchen door, 
tends to diminish burdensome grocery and meat bills ; and as they are 
not subject to deterioration in transportation and by exposure on the 
markets, home-grown vegetables are always crisp and tender and 
retain their characteristic flavor. 



An Amateur's Vegetable Garden 
All the space utilized and everything growing luxuriantly 



174 



GARDEN GUIDE 



While the home gardener should never be satisfied with anything 
but abundant crops of the best quality, let him also bear in mind that 
the garden should be an expression of orderly arrangement. No gar- 
den can do its best without intelhgent care. A well thought out scheme 
must be followed if complete success is to be achieved. Have the plot 
properly laid out before beginning its development. Mark on the 
plan the location and quantity of each vegetable to be grown and the 
dates for sowing and setting. Companion and succession crops should 
be indicated. With the ground thus planned for utility, the crops 
may be so arranged that there will be a continuous supply of fresh 
and superior vegetables for the family table. 

In some instances, a vegetable garden is objected to on the ground 
that it interferes with the beauty of the surrounding effects. But 
the latter can be made to fit in with the general scheme. A well- 
planned and neatly-kept vegetable garden need never detract from 
the general appearance of the place; usually it is a decidedly attractive 
feature; it lends an air of simplicity and ''hominess" which flowers 
alone cannot furnish. On a "dollars and cents" basis alone, the vege- 
table garden is, or can almost always be made, a paying factor. Even 
where that side of the matter is to be disputed there is no question 
that to get the very best quality of vegetables you must grow your own. 

The commercial grower must be guided in his choice of varieties 
by the market demands, and by the factor of big yields, even though 
the varieties which meet these requirements may not be those of the 
best table quahty. The home gardener, on the other hand, may select 
varieties which satisfy his own personal taste. Furthermore, there are 
many vegetables which, to be had at their very best, must be gathered 
only a few hours before they are used. As an old saying has it: "The 
pot should be boiling before you pick your Corn." 

As a healthful recreation, nothing surpasses the cultivation of 
culinary vegetables. It never gets monotonous, for the work changes 
from day to day, and every day brings its own problems. The work in- 
volved may be made as mild or as strenuous as is desired. If one fears 
that not enough exercise i^o be had with a hoe, a few hours' "trench- 
ing" with a spade will give him as big an appetite for his dinner as 
anything he can fmd to do. 

It is not necessary to hesitate about having a vegetable garden 
because such a location as you may have available is not naturally the 
most ideal for the purpose. The plot of ground which cannot, with in- 
telhgent preparation, be made to grow successfully practically every 
one of the garden vegetables, is by all means the exception and not the 
general rule. At the same tune it pays well to take advantage of any 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



175 



favorable natural conditions that may be at hand. The best soil is 
what is termed a * 'sandy loam," that is, a good clay soil in which there 
is enough material of a sand-Hke character to keep it friable and w ork- 
able at all times of the year, while moisture is retained by it for a long 
time. If you have only a heavy clay soil, it can be improved by adding 
sand, wood ashes, sifted coal ashes, lime and humus. If the soil is light 
and sandy, heavy loam or muck added to it will improve it, and humus 
will also be very beneficial. 




Small vegetable garden on suburban lot, with neat wire fence on left 

and wooden pathway 



Drainage is one of the most important factors. If your garden 
spot is low and wet, by all means put in a drain tile at the first oppor- 
tunity. Deep spading, and in extreme cases, loosening up the subsoil 
with agricultural blasting powder, will tend to overcome this difficulty. 

If the garden can be located in a spot where it is protected from 
prevailing Winter and Spring winds the earliness of the crops will be 
advanced very noticeably. A good, thick hedge of Hemlock, Spruce, 
or Privet to the north and west of the garden, if it is not naturally 
sheltered, may be made to serve the double purpose of providing a 
wind shield, and of screening it from other parts of the place. 



176 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Growing Plants for Setting Out 

Hotbeds and coldframes are really miniature gardens under 
glass and are highly esteemed by the progressive gardener. The hot- 
bed is artificially heated from beneath, usually by a deep layer of 
clean stable manure, while in the coldframe the only heat is that 
suppKed by the sun's rays. Frames and hotbeds are fully discussed 
in Chapter XXV. 




If you utiKze your frames to advantage, your first plantings of 
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Beets, Onions, Tomatoes, Peppers, 
Egg Plants, Lima Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Melons and Squash will 
be well started by the time it is warm enough to plant them out of 
doors. 

If you have only coldframes, a few plants may be started in the 
house in a warm, sunny window to be put into the frames when they 
are large enough to transplant. A supply of suitable soil should be 
brought indoors in the Fall and held for this purpose. Take a box 
18 in. by 24 in. and 4 in. deep and bore a few holes in the bottom for 
drainage. Mix the soil with well-rotted manure and sand and fill the 
box to within one-half inch of the top. Sow the seed thinly in shallow 
rows and firm the smface. 

In making a hotbed begin a week or ten days before you expect to 
make your fu"st sowing of seed. Procure horse manure that has not yet 
fermented, allowing one-sixth of a cord to each sash to be heated. 
Unless the manure has some considerable straw or bedding mixed in 
with it, it will be better to add one-fourth of leaves to the manure when 
it is piled up. Build it up in a square heap, tramping it down solidly as 
it is built. After three or four days, fork it over smd restack, putting 
what was the outside of the heap in the center. Sprinkle with water 
any parts of it that may seem dry. Fork the heap over again within 
three or four days. In this way the whole mass may be made to fer- 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



177 



ment evenly, and wil) be in just the right shape to put into the frames 
for your hotbeds. Fork out the old soil to a depth of from four to six 
inches; put in the manure, tramping it down firmly to a depth of 
eighteen inches or so. The amount of manure required will depend 
upon the climate and upon how early in the Spring the bed is made. 

If soil that is not frozen is available, it will be well to put an inch 
or so of fresh soil on top of the old in which to sow the seeds. Any soil 
which has been removed should be put back on top of the manure and 
thoroughly fined and raked level. Then put on the sashes and let 
the frames stand- until a thermometer hung inside recedes to a tem- 
perature of 70 deg. to 80 deg., when it will be ready for the first sowing 
of seed. 

Digging, Manuring and Preparing the Soil 

With the soil adequately enriched and thoroughly prepared, 
success is half won before you begin. Insufficient preparation, no mat- 
ter how good your seeds may be, will remain a drag and a handicap 
throughout the entire season. The soil is the sole source of nourish- 
ment for the tremendous development plants will have to make through 
the comparatively few weeks of the growing season. All their food 
is absorbed in the form of a weak solution. We have already spoken of 
the necessity for thorough drainage. The soil must also be well pul- 
verized. It pays, therefore, to take time to prepare, just as thoroughly 
as you possibly can, your garden soil, no matter how impatient you 
may be to get at the more interesting tasks of seed sowing and planting. 

If your garden plot is sufficiently large for a horse or team to 
turn in plowing will be much cheaper and on the whole much more 
satisfactory. Unless your soil is very light and sandy, it will pay to 
plow as deeply as possible without digging up the subsoil. If pos- 
sible, plow or spade up in late Fall, leaving the soil in ridges, 
harrowing in Spring. If not able to do this, then plow early in the 
Spring. If the garden has to be dug by spade, you will have to 
watch carefully to see that the job is done thoroughly. It is hard, 
slow work and nothing is to be gained by trying to skimp it. The 
garden that is dug shallow, left lumpy or merely fine on the surface, 
cannot give good results. Dig at least ten to twelve inches deep. 
Manure, should be spread evenly over the ground before spading. It 
is usually best to throw the first row or furrow of soil out entirely, 
and then put the manure from the next strip on the bottom of the 
fiirrow dug out, proceeding in this manner across the piece. 

When planting or sowing is to be done the whole plot should be 
raked over. It may be that only a small part of it will be wanted for 



178 



GARDEN GUIDE 



immediate use for the hardiest seeds or plants, but if it is all given the 
same treatment the moisture will be conserved. It pays to take a 
good deal of care and lime to get all trash and stones raked up and re- 
moved before you think of getting the surface ready for planting. 

For practical results the enriching of your garden can be accom- 
plished in no better way than by the application of all the manure you 
can conveniently get. It should be well rotted and not green and 
lumpy. Horse and cattle manure mixed that has been kept under 
cover and has thoroughly fermented but not *Tire-fanged" or burned 
out, is the best. If you can get enough of this to spread it three or four 
inches deep all over your garden, you will have the foundation for big 
crops. 

Chicken manure is particularly powerful, but should have been 
kept so that it is line and dry; and not stuck together in a pasty mass. 
If you have only a small quantity, it is wise to keep it just for use in 
hills and for transplanting rather than to spread it over the whole gar- 
den. Sheep manure, like chicken manure, is very high in nitrogen, ^ 
and should be used in the same way. Within recent years it has been 
possible to purchase cattle, horse and sheep manure in standardized, 
prepared forms which are dry and convenient to handle. Where yard 
manure cannot be conveniently obtained, these can be used. 

Because it has been increasingly difficult to get manures in suffi- 
cient quantities, commercial fertilizers have come more into use. As 
it is more convenient, the small gardener usually buys his fertilizer in 
the form of a completely mixed preparation. See Fertilizer chapter. 

It will be well to have on hand, however, a small quantity each of 
fine ground bone, guano or dried blood. These are all quick acting 
fertihzers which can be used in hills or drills. You can also use all 
the wood ashes you can get. Dustings of lime are also helpful. Com- 
mercial * 'humus" or prepared decayed vegetable matter is inexpensive 
and will prove very beneficial. It is often advertised. 

Sowing and Transplanting 

The operations of planting and transplanting are two at which the 
gardener must become expert as soon as possible. The fu'st step is 
to have a thoroughly prepared seed bed or planting surface. Have 
the soil thoroughly pulverized. It may then be left until ready for 
use. Just before you sow or plant, the surface should again be gone 
over with an iron rake. Make it as smooth and fine as you possibly 
can. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



179 



Directions for Sowing 

It is best to- buy seed from a good, reliable seed house rather than 
to depend upon what you may find at the local hardware or grocery 
store. Small seeds such as Lettuce, Radish and Onions may be merely 
raked into the surface; medium size seeds, such as Beets, Spinach 
and Parsnips, from one-quarter to one-half inch and the comparatively 
large seeds, such as Cabbage, Carrots and Pumpkins, about one-half 
inch deep. In showery weather the seeds should be covered more 




Lettuce, Beets, Onions, Carrots, Peas and wire netting support for Peas. This 
garden is a model of good keeping 



lightly than in normal conditions, in a very light soil, or in hot, dry 
weather, cover more deeply. In extra early sowings of Peas, put the 
seeds in a little deeper but not much. 

As a general guide, sow Onions, (also plant Onion sets) smooth 
Peas, early Beets, Radishes, Spinach, Turnips and Cabbage just as 
soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring. When Peach and 
Pear trees are in bloom, the medium hardy seeds, including Beets, 
Carrots, Kohl-Rabi, Lettuce, wrinkled Peas, Parsnips, Salsify, To- 
matoes, Swiss Chard may be sown and also Lettuce, Cauliflowers, Beets« 
and Onion plants from the coldframes may be set out. 



180 



GARDEN GUIDE 



When the apple trees are in blossom, sow the tenderest seeds — 
Beans, Sweet Corn, Cucumbers, Okra, Melons, Pumpkins and Squash. 

After all danger from late frost is past, set out growing plants of 
Tomatoes, Peppers, Egg Plants, Pole Beans, Melons, Cucumbers, 
Sweet Corn and Okra. 

Poor germination results are often due to the fact that seeds are 
loosely covered in the soil. They should be well firmed and covered. 
Firming can generally be done well enough with the back of the hoe or 
rake. 

For neatness make every row straight, using your garden line and 
reel frequently. Tag every row as soon as it is sown or planted, mark- 
ing on the date as well as the name of the variety. You will thus be 
able to keep track of the time required for the different varieties to 
mature, which will be of great value to you in succeeding years. 

Transplanting 

Transplanting should be done preferably during showery weather, 
or in the late afternoon, and the plants will take hold more quickly. If 
they are shaded in some w ay for a few days, especially if the weather 
is windy and sunny, all the better. An irrigation system is of the 
greatest benefit, in transplanting or planting, as the work can be done 
at any time with an almost positive certainty of success. In all trans- 
planting the soil ought to be pressed firmly. 

Seeds may be sown directly in the soil, but usually it is better to 
sow in "flats" or seed pans, which can be moved about from ane sash 
to another and handled more conveniently in transplanting. Smali 
seeds should be barely covered from sight, while larger ones should be 
covered to the depth mentioned a few paragraphs back. It is important 
to press the seed firmly into the soil when sowing. Label each variety 
carefully and water with a fine spray so as not to wash out the seeds. 

As soon as the Uttle seedhngs are up it will be necessary to give 
some fresh air every day or two to keep them healthy and vigorous, 
the temperature being kept at from 60 to 75 deg. according to the 
things being grown. As soon as the first two or three true leaves ap- 
pear, the seedlings should be transplanted, either into other "flats" or 
into the frames, setting them from two to three inches apart each way 
so they will have plenty of room. 

During this season watering should be done only on bright morn- 
ings so that the soil wiU have a chance to dry off before night, as this 
will lessen the danger of "damping off." Avoid over-watering, as the 
soil dries out very slowly w^hen the sashes have to be kept on most of 
the time. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



181 



Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg Plants should be transplanted a 
second time, preferably to pots, before being set out of doors. If they 
have been given plenty of room at the first shift in the frames or flats, 
they can be put into three and a half- or four-inch pots, and be in 
bud and blossom when set into the garden. 

It is very important that all plants, whether hardy or tender, 
should be "hardened off" carefully before being moved from the 
frames to the open garden. To do this, leave them uncovered all the 
time for several days and nights before you set them out, putting on 
the sashes only if frost threatens. Should plants inadvertently get 
touched by frost, watering them with ice-cold water in the morning 
and keeping them shaded from the sun will often enable them to re- 
cover when they might otherwise be lost. 

Watering — Irrigating 

Within the last few years there have been developed several 
systems for applying water artificially. Any gardener who has a water 
supply with thirty pounds pressure available can get his own rain 
whenever he wants it by installing an irrigation system, at a very 
slight cost. 

The type that has been most widely used consists of horizontal 
piping supported a few feet above the surface of the garden a^d per- 
forated at regular intervals. These pipes can be turned by a handle 
and a valve turns the water on or off as needed. A single line of pipe 
will water a strip of ground twenty-five feet wide on both sides, or a 
total of fifty feet. 

Another system which is slightly more expensive and appfies the 
water more rapidly, has adjustable circular sprays placed every twenty- 
five or thirty feet along the line of pipe. It also does excellent work. 

Watering with a hose by hand is not to be compared with water 
applied by a modern irrigating system. The soil can be soaked evenly 
and to as great a depth as desired, the water being put on whenever 
and wherever wanted by simply turning a valve and occasionally 
turning the pipe. For very small gardens a portable system of both 
types can be had. 

General Principles of Cultivation 

Late afternoon or evening is the best time for watering vegetables. 
If a hand hose is used, wet the ground thoroughly by letting the spray 
rise in the air and fall in a fine shower. To produce a similar result 
hold the sprinkling can as high as possible. 

What is '^cultivation Why do we do it and what does it accom- 
plish ? We cultivate to keep down weeds that might rob the growing 



182 



GARDEN GUIDE 



crop of sunlight, air and nourishment; to conserve the moisture in the 
soil; to keep the soil open and aerated, and to pulverize the soil or 
break up its particles and thus assist the chemical and bacteriological 
changes in the soil. Cultivation brings these results. It also creates 
what is called **a soil mulch," i. e., a layer of dry soil on the surface 
which checks the loss of moisture from the lower layers to the surface 
where it evaporates rapidly. 

The cultivation work required on any crop will depend largely on 
whether or not you get the first hoeing and weeding done just as soon 
as it is possible to do it, or let it go for a few days or a week later. 




A vegetable garden for supplying a large household. Here, as in the smaller gardens 
depicted on other pages, cleanliness and careful cultivation are jfre-eminent. Ob- 
serve the handsome pergola around the exterior 



Within a week or ten days the soil between the rows will have begun to 
form a crust again, and new crop of weed seedlings may have sprouted. 
This means another hoeing promptly. We do not think that it is any 
exaggeration to say that eighty per cent, of the work in taking care of 
gardens is due to the fact that these hoeings and hand weedings are 
allowed to go for several days after they should have been attended to. 
The tedious task of hand weeding may be lessened considerably by 
using one of the small hand weeders. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



183 



Cultivation should be kept up frequently enough to maintain a 
dust mulch at all times. Cultivation with a wheel hoe should be kept 
up as long as it is possible to get between the rows. Then you should 
substitute for it a double or shde hoe. The types with runners or wheel 
to guide the blade and hold it even, do much better and easier work. 
By all means, provide yourself with one. 

ELOtation of Crops 

Garden rotation — that is, changing the location of vegetable 
plantings each season — is of much importance and should be carried 
out as far as possible. An excellent plan to follow is to raise surface 
crops one year on a plot where root crops were grown the year before. 

Insects and Diseases 

There are a number of insects which are almost certain to put in 
appearance every season. One important thing in combating insects 
and diseases is to be prepared to ward off attack. In cases where pre- 
ventive measures are not possible, be prepared to act immediately if 
trouble appears. Owing to the large number of remedies, cures and 
poisons which the gardener sees advertised or hears about, he is likely 
to get the idea that the question of plant pests is such a complicated 
one that no simple and systematic measures are possible. As a matter 
of fact, warfare with plant troubles, while it is always serious enough, 
is by no means as complicated as at first appears. The first step to take 
and the most important thing to know is what kind of enemy you are 
fighting in any particular case. While their number is legion, they can 
be classified into three or four groups (as spoken of in a chapter on 
Insect Pests and Fungous Diseases, which see), against each of which 
the same weapons are efPective. 

Harvestiug and Storing 

There are thousands of amateur gardeners who leave enough fruit 
and vegetables on or in the ground at the end of the season to make all 
the difference between profit and loss on their season's operations. 
Learn to utiHze everything you grow. Every head of Cabbage that 
splits, every ear of Corn, or handful of Beans that gets too old to use, 
every root that is left to freeze in the ground, is just so much waste. 
While many things can be successfully stored through the Winter, or a 
large part of it, others must be canned. The usual mistake is to try to do 
all the canning in a rush at the end of the season. The prejudice against 
canned things is largely due to the fact that they are not canned until 
they are already old and tough. See Chapter on Fruits and Vegetables 
for Winter. 



184 



GARDEN GUIDE 



In storing vegetables, a few things need an exceptionally dry and 
warm place, such as a corner of the attic near the chimney. The stor- 
age room must be perfectly clean. Get it ready early. Some folks lik 
to provide containers to hold the different fruits or vegetables and so 
make them easy to handle. Some vegetables demand a free circulation 
of air about them, while others must be kept barely moist by som 
packing material. Ordinary cracker boxes and slatted vegetable or 
Onion crates, each of which holds about a bushel, level full, ar 
cheap, clean and convenient, and can be obtained at any grocery store. 
The boxes are also excellent for keeping Apples and other fruit, and fo~ 
packing root crops such as Parsnips, Salsify, Turnips, Beets, Carrots 
and Winter Radishes in sand or sphagnum moss, and also for packing 
Celery for Winter. Slatted crates are good for Onions, Squash, Cab- 
bage, and for handhng Tomatoes, Melons, Egg Plant and so forth, 
which can be kept for some weeks in a cool place. Directions for storing 
and harvesting the individual crops are given in paragraphs that 
follow, but the fuller general information is given in this paragraph 
on storage. See also Storage Cellar Diagram and accompanying notes. 

Fertilizers for Fruits and Vegetables 
This subject is fully discussed in a separate chapter, which see 

Gardening Tools 

One of the first requirements of the gardener is an assortment of 
tools with which to till the ground. If the garden is very small, what 
the catalogues list as a "ladies' set," which comprises a hoe, a rake and 
a fork of good quality, will be found convenient and satisfactory. 
Garden tools are dealt with in a later chapter. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING, by F. L. Watts, 
This complete, concise and authentic book covers every phase of vegetable 
gardening and is especially well organized as a textbook and equally valuable 
as a handbook for practical growers. It treats fully the guestions regarding 
soils fertilizers, manures, irrigation, insect enemies, and fungous diseases, 
construction of hothouses, coldframes, seed growing, vegetables under glass, 
marketing, etc., etc. Illustrated. 53^ x 8 in. 525 yages. Cloth. Price, 

$2.15, postpaid 
Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide 



Sowing and Planting Table for Vegetables 



Asparagus, Seeds. 
Asparagus, Roots. 

Beans, Bush* 

Beans, Pole 

Beans, Lima* 

Beets*. : 

Broccoli* 

Brussels Sprouts*. 
Cabbage, Early* . 
Cabbage, Late — 

Cardoon . 

Carrots 

Cauliflower* . , 

Celeriac 

Celery 

Chard, Swiss 

Chicory, Witloof . 
Chinese Cabbage. 

Collards 

Corn 

Corn Salad 

Cress 

Cucumbers* 

Egg-plant* 

Endive. 

Horse Radish . 

Kale (Borecole) . . , 

Kohl Rabi* 

Leek 

Lettuce* 

Melons, Musk* . . . 
Melons, Water. . . . 

Mustard 

Okra 

Onions 

Parsley* 

Parsnip 

Peas, Dwarf 

Peas, Tall 

Peppers*.., 



Potatoes 

Pumpkins 

Radish 

Rhubarb, Seed 

Rhubarb, Roots. . . 

Rutabaga 

Salsify 

Sea Kale, Seed. . . . 
Sea Kale, Roots. . . 

Spinach 

Squash, Bush . 

Squash, Running. . 

Tomato* 

Turnip •. . . 

Vegetable Marrow. 
Watercress 



Seeds of" 
Plants 
50-ft. Row 



H-1 oz. 
40-50 rts. 
1 pt. 

Mpt. 

Mpt. 

1 oz. 
25 pits. 
25 pits. 
35 pits. 
25 pits. 

M oz. 

^2 oz. 
20-25 pits. 

H oz. 

M oz. 

M oz. 

H oz. 

H oz. 
25-35 pits. 

3^pt. 

1 oz 

H OZ' 

M oz. 
25 pits. 
H oz. 
40-50 rts. 
M oz. 
H oz. 
3^ oz. 
M oz. 

1 

1 oz. 
3^ oz. 
M oz. 
M oz. 

1 pt. 
1 pt. 

25 pits. 

pk. 

yi oz. 

^ oz. 
M oz. 



oz. 

^2 OZ. 

\i oz. 



oz. 
4 oz. 

}4. oz. 



y^. oz. 

M oz. 
M oz. 

25 pits 
M oz. 
M oz. 
M oz. 



Apart 
in Rows 



3-5 in. 

1ft. 
3-4 in. 

3- 4 ft. 

4- 5 ft. 
4-in. 

18-24 in. 
18-24 in. 
16-18 in. 
18-24 in. 
12-18 in. 

3- 4 in. 
24-30 in. 

6-8 in. 
6 in. 
6-8 in. 

6 in. 
18-20 in. 
18-24 in. 
12 in. 

3 in. 
Br'dcast 

4 ft. 
24 in. 
12 in. 

12-15 in. 
18-24 in. 

6-8 in. 
4 in.- 

6-8 in. 

4- 5 ft. 

6- 8 ft. 
8-12 in. 
18 in. 

2- 3 in. 

3- 6 in. 
3-4 in. 

2 in. 
2 in. 

2 ft. 

12-15 in. 
8 ft. 

1- 2 in. 
10-12 in. 

3 ft. 
6 in. 

3- 4 in. 
6 in. 

3 ft. 

4 in. 

4- 5 ft. 

7- 8 ft. 
18-24 in. 

4- 6 in. 

5- 8 ft. 

2- 3 in. 



Distance! 
Between Depth of 
Rows Planting 



1- 2 ft. 

3 ft. 
2-23^ ft, 

3- 4 ft. 

4- 5 ft. 
12-15 in 
30-36 in 
30-36 in 
30-36 in 
30-36 in 

24 in. 
12-15 in 
30-36 in 

18 in. 

3- 4 ft. 
15-18 in, 

18 in. 
24-30 in 
24-30 in, 

36 in. 
12-15 in, 

12 in. 

4 ft. 
2^-3 ft, 
12-18 in, 
24-30 in, 

24 in. 
18-24 in. 

18 in. 
12-15 in. 

4- 5 ft. 

6- 8 ft. 
15-18 in. 

2- 3 ft. 
12 in. 

12 -18 in. 
18 in. 

3 ft. 

4 ft. 
23^-3 ft. 

23^-3 ft. 
8 ft. 
8-12 in. 
12 in. 

3- 5 ft. 
18-24 in. 
12-18 in. 

15 in. 
3 ft. 
12-18 in. 

4- 5 ft. 

7- 8 ft. 
3 ft. 

15-18 in. 

5- 8 ft. 
6-in. 



M-1 in. 

13^-2 in 
13^-2 in, 
lM-2 in 
lin. 

M-3^ in, 
M-3^ in, 
in, 

M-3^ in, 

lin. 

M in. 
M-3^ in. 

Min. 

3^ in. 

lin. 

3^ in. 

y^-y2 in, 

^in. 
13^-2 in, 
y. in. 
3^ in. 
3^ in. 
3^ in. 
in. 

y in. 

3^ in. 

3^ in. 
3^-M in. 

^in. 

Min. 

Min. 
lin. 

3^ in. 
M-3^ in. 

3^ in. 

1-2 in. 

2 in. 

3^ in. 

3 4-in. 
lin. 
3^ in. 
^-1 in. 

K-iin. 
y-in. 
y-l in. 

y in. 
y-l in. 
y-l in. 
3^ in. 
3^-1 in. 
lin. 
in 



Time of 
Planting 



Spring 
Spring 
May to Aug. 
May-June 
May-June 
Apr.-Aug. 
Mar.-June 
May-June 
Mar.-Apr. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-June 
May-June 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
May-June 
July- Aug. 

May 
May-July 
Mar.-Aug. 
Mar. -Sept. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
April 
Spring 
Mar.-Apr. 
Mar.-May 
Mar.-May 
Mar.-Sept. 
Apr.-June 
May-June 
Mar.-Sept. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-May 
Mar.-July 
Mar.-July 
May (Mar. in 
hotbed) 
Mar.-May 
May-July 
Mar.-Sept. 
Mar.-Apr. 
Mar.-Apr. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
May-June 

Mar.-Apr. 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-June 
Mar.-May 
Apr.-July 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-SeDt. 



Ready for 
Use after 
Planting 



3-4 years 

2- 3 years 
45-75 days 
50-80 days 
70-100 days 
60- 70 days 

100-130 days 
90-120 days 
90-130 days 
90-130 days 

150-170 days 
60- 85 days 

100-140 days 

100-150 days 

125-150 days 
60- 80 days 
5-6 months 
60- 90 days 

100-120 days 
60-100 days 
60- 70 days 
30- 40 days 
60- 80 days 

100-140 days 
75-100 days 

130-150 days 
70-100 days 
60- 80 days 

120-150 days 
60-100 days 
90-120 days 

100-125 days 
60- 90 days 
80-120 days 

120-175 days 
90-120 days 

100-150 days 
50- 80 days 
50- 80 days 

100-140 days 

70-120 days 
100-130 days 
25-50 days 

3- 4 years 
2-3 years 

80-100 days 
120-170 days 
3d year 
2-3 years 
60- 80 days 
50- 60 days 
70-100 days 
100-140 days 
60- 80 days 
100-140 days 
60- 80 days 



*For early crops start in hotbeds or coldframes February, March or April, according 
to location and season. Bean seeds should not be planted before April. 

NOTE. — Planting dates are given for the latitude of New York. Farther South the 
sowings should be made earlier in the year, and farther North correspondingly later as soil 
becomes warm and weather settled. Over a great area of the United States owing to weather 
conditions, sowings that were made one year on April 1 it might not be possible to make until 
May 1 the next year in the same section, owing to backward season, or again the reverse may 
take place. The lesson is obvious: the gardener must stand ready to plant his seed or set out 
his young plants the moment the opportunity offers. 

185 



a86 GARDEN GUIDE 

CULTIVATION OF THE CHIEF VEGETABLES 

The principles of fertility and culture, which have been covered in 
the previous chapters, apply alike to all vegetables. 

ASPARAGUS 

This excellent vegetable may be grown from seed, but as it does not 
come into full bearing until the third or fourth year from sowing it is more 
satisfactory to purchase two-year-old roots. A hundred or two Asparagus 
plants, well cared for, will supply the home table. Select well drained 
soil in which to plant this crop, preferably one a little sandy. Dig out 
=^=s~ trenches about eighteen inches deep 




and three feet apart. Tread into 
these six inches or so of manure, and 
cover this with good soil to within 
six inches of the surface. On this 
prepared bed, during the late 
Autumn or early Spring, set the 
roots a foot apart, spreading them 
out evenly. Fill the trench only 
two-thirds or so at first, and work 
the rest of the soil in until it is 
level as the plants develop. Beans, 
Beets, Carrots, Lettuce, can be 
grown between the rows of Aspara- 
gus during the first part of the 
season. As the shoots or growths 
develop in the Spring, a few of the 
largest may be cut, but only for a 
few weeks the first year. Cultivate 
thoroughly, however, to get as 
vigorous a growth of plants as 
possible. Cease cutting when the 
shoots become tough or stringy 
(about June 24 in the latitude of 
New York) and allow the tops to 
grow, removing and burning them 
in the late Fall. Then cultivate 
the soil and apply manure or 



Refugee Wax Beans fertilizer. This is to throw strength 

into the crown for the early Spring 
growth, as the succulent roots act as storehouses of plant food. 

BEANS 

Always select a warm and fertile soil if available. Avoid nitrogenous 
manures or fertilizers near the seeds. As Beans will not withstand cold 
weather, it is quite useless to plant before the ground is reasonably warm. 
Bush Beans are planted in rows 24 to 30 in. apart, 1 3^ to 2 in. deep; thin 
out to 3 or 4 in. between each bean. Good results are obtained by planting 
in double rows 5 to 6 in. apart. As the plants develop hill them slightly. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



187 



Cultivate the soil frequently, but never while the foliage is wet, as hoeing 
when the vines are moist spreads disease and often results in a failure of 
the crop. Pick the pods before they attain full size; they are then tender 
and almost stringless. For a continuous supply make successive sowings 
every ten days or two weeks. 



3 



3 



— I' 



' [lettuce. P/IDA^A/£S FOiLO^EDffy CELEPV 



OA//ONS EOLLo^Eoay CElEPy- 



'\p^POTS FOLLOkVED By- K/:}LE 



d££TS FOLLOWED 3y /f^LE • 



IPE^S - y l/'/f/?/£T/£-S EOLLOtvSD SyF/7lL C/f3B/fG£ 



3£/^NS FOlLOyVED 3>-£/fU POWTOES- 



C/7BB/76E FOLLOfV£^3y/='/7ll POT/7TOES 



'C/^UUFLOiVER.^OHL-P^B/ FOuo^£P Brr/7LL POT/^ITOES 



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'CUCOMBE/tS FOLLoyva; 3r TUPN/PS 



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S^y/EETCOPAf EOLLO/VEO syFPU PE/7S' 



so 



I 

I 



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^5! 



Plan for the cropping of a Southern garden 50ft. by 75ft. From U. S. 
Farmers' Bulletin 647 



188 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The Dwarf Limas are only partly dwarf, and should be given more 
space than the Green and Wax Beans. Put the seed in edgewise with the 
eye down, and if possible, avoid planting within two or three days of rain. 

Pole or running Beans are usually planted in specially prepared hills 
3 to 4 ft. apart, and supported on rough poles or stakes with cross pieces. 
A better way is to grow them in rows, and support them on a continuous 
trellis. For a long bearing season keep all pods picked off as fast as they 
are large enough. Many varieties, however, are good as shell Beans after 
they mature. 

Pole Limas should not be planted until the groiind is thoroughly 
warm. Set the seed, eye downward, in hills 4 to 5 ft. apart. In each hill 

place 8 to 10 beans, 13^ to 2 in. deep, 
and when the plants are established 
thin to 4 or 5. Many gardeners now 
use the Bush Lima instead of the 
Pole; they are just as satisfactory 
and require no support. 

BEETS 

Beets thrive in well enriched, 
moist soil. Sow the seed 1 in. deep 
in drills 12 to 15 in. apart, and thin 
out early to 4 in. The thinnings from 
the crop make excellent greens. As 
with all the root crops, especially 
when planted early in the season, 
growth will be greatly stimulated by 
a slight application of nitrate of soda. 
Make two or three sowings between 
April and the latter part of June 
when the crop for Fall use and Winter 
storage is put in. 



BROCCOLI— BRUSSELS SPROUTS 

Broccoli is a crop similar to Cauliflower, but much hardier. Give 
same culture as Cauliflower and grow for Fall and Winter use, as it does 
not thrive in the hot season. 

Brussels Sprouts, an extremely delicious vegetable, is grown in much 
the same way as CauHflower or Cabbage. The "buttons" or small heads 
which form along the stalk may be grown to a larger size by pinching out 
the crown of the plant after the "buttons" have formed. These plants are 
extremely hardy and the "buttons," which are improved by frost, may be 
left on the stalk and gathered when wanted until Midwinter. 




Egyptian Beets 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



189 



CABBAGE 

Use deep and very rich soil 
which is not lacking in lime, 
and in addition to this, put 
manure or fertilizer in the hills 
or rows. Cover the seed to 
3^ in. deep. The early varie- 
ties may be set as close as 16 
in. or 18 in., the rows being 30 
to 36 in. apart. For late varie- 
ties leave 18 to 24 in. between 
plants. Plants started under 
glass are set out early in April, 
and seeds planted at the same 
time will give plants for a suc- 
cession crop. Plants for the late 
crop are started in the latter 
part of May or early during 
the first half of June. As a rule, 
the earher the better. One Cabbage— Fresh and tempting 

of the most important points in 

growing strong plants for transplanting is to thin them out to 
several inches apart as soon as they are well started; also keep them thor- 
oughly cultivated at aU stages of growth . A sUght hilling up as they develop 
is desirable. Two or three light applications of nitrate of soda given a 
week or so after transplanting, and again in from ten to fourteen days, 
will help wonderfully in giving the crop a strong start. Very palatable 
"greens" can be obtained by leaving the stalks of early cabbage in the 
ground to produce "sucker growths." Keep a sharp lookout for insect 
pests. Dm-ing the growing season the plants may be troubled by a 
destructive green worm, which can be controlled by a weak spray of arsenate 
of lead early in their growth, but just before the heads begin to form it is 
safer to use a non-poisonous remedy; Slug Shot is very effectual as a 
destroyer of these troublesome pests; apply it when the plants are moist 
from dew. 

CARROTS 

The general cultural requirements are similar to those recommended 
for Beets, witE the exception that the ground can hardly be made too rich 
for the latter, while Carrots will often do excellently on ground which is 
not of so good tilth. For instance, if part of your garden is new ground, 
Carrots will be all right there, while Beets would do better on the old soil 
in the highest state of cultivation. Cover seed J/^ in. deep. For the 
earliest crop sow a variety recommended for forcing in the hotbed or cold- 
frame in rows 12 in. apart, setting Radishes between. The Radishes will 
be out of the way in time for the Carrots to develop. Where space is 
limited, a late planting of Onions for Winter use may be put in between the 




Garden Plan for a City or Suburban Plot 

20 ft. wide by 25 ft. long 

HORTH 



SPRING SPIITACH foll>by BUSH UMk BEANS 



EARLY BEETS followed by BUSH BEANS 



LATE CAPJIOTS and SWISS CHARD 



EARLY CARROTS followed by LATE LETTUCE 



ONION SETS followed by BUSH BEMS 
BUSH BEANS followed by LATE BEETS 



EARLY DWARF PEAS followed by CELERY 
EARLY RADISH and EARLY TURNIPS 



EARLY DWARF PEAS followed_by^ CELERY 



y.CrCr PLANTS 



EARLY LETTU m PLANT5^ 



TOMATO PLANT S ^. 



EARLY CAULIFLGWm VUmS 



TOMATO , PLANTS 



EARLY • CABBAGE PLANTS 



•TQUA TO X PL AI f T S . 



PATH 



Glass 
Covered 

COLD 
FRAME 

3x6f t . 



Glass 
Covered 

HOT 
BED 

3x6f t , 



PATH 



GATE 



iJATE 



Mint 

and 
PARSLE-J 

bed 



Bed 



STRAW- 
BERRY 



TLOWER 
Bed 



o 



h 

(0 

< 



SOUTH — B.0 FT^ W/DHc 

Further details of Garden Plan above: 
If there are no fence divisions a low wire netting will keep our dogs and cats from the 

garden. Seed is to be planted excepting where "plants" are mentioned. All rows are 

18 in. apart. The path is 2 ft. wide. Beds to the right are 3 ft. wide. 

After Spring plants are out of the frames, two hills of Cucumbers may be planted m 

the hotbed, and two hills of Bush Squash in the coldframe. t. ^ i. 

The Lettuce, Cauliflower, and Cabbage Plants will mature before the Tomatoes 

overshade them. 

X — Indicates a Tomato plant, three plants to a row. . u 

= (Double parallel lines)— Indicate that the seed of Beets, Carrots, Onions. Radishes, 
and Turnips, may^be planted in_double rows about 3 in. apart. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



191 



rows in late June, 
omitting every sec- 
ond or third row, 
giving room to dry 
and harvest the 
Onions. It will 
prove successful 
only if the ground 
is free from weeds, 
and soil moisture 
from irrigation or 
otherwise is to be 
relied upon. Give 
careful attention to 
the thinning of the 
young plants, leav- 




Early Scarlet Horn Carrots 



ing sufficient room between each for the carrots to attain their full size. Look 
out for the striped carrot worms. The most effective and easiest way of 
dealing with them is to pick them off the tops and destroy them. 



CARDOON 

Used principally as a Winter vegetable. Sow in May in drills 2 ft. 
apart and 1 in. deep; thin to 12 to 18 in. The soil should be rich, with 
plenty of moisture. In the Autumn the fleshy leaves are blanched by being 
drawn together. 



CAULIFLOWER 



.This crop is handled in much the same way as Cabbage, with the fol- 
lowing additional cultural requirements. The plants are more tender and 

should not be set out until a week or 
so after the first planting of Cabbage- 
Cauhflower is a very gross feeder 
and even larger quantities of manure 
and fertihzer can be apphed with 
advantage. An abundance of water is 
also of the greatest importance. To 
be kept white and tender the "heads" 
or curds must be protected from the 
suri soon after they begin to form by 
tying the leaves together over them. 
The "heads" remain in the best of 
condition for only a few days and should 
be examined frequently when about 
ready to prevent "going by." 




Crippled. 



>.uxu riant. 



Cauliflower— Proving that shallow 
cultivation cripples all plants. Deep 
cultivation is essential to healthy, 
luxuriant growth 



192 



GARDEN GUIDE 



CELERIAC— CELERY 



Celeriac is a turnip-rooted form of Celery used for cooking. Its 
cultivation is similar to that for Celery, but it does not need banking 
or blanching. Sow about }4 in. deep in drills 18 in. apart and thin out 
to 6 to 8 in. 

The first requirement in growing good Celery is a good supply of water. 
The soil can hardly be made too rich. Early Cabbage and early Beets, 
Peas, Lettuce, etc. , are usually out of the way in time to put in the Celery, 
so that the same ground cph be used, but an additional dressing of fertiUzer 

should be given. For early use set 
out strong plants in April or May, 
putting the rows 3 to 4 ft. apart, and 
the plants 6 in. in the row. Where 
irrigation is available the plants are 
sometimes grown in beds, being placed 
8 to 10 in. apart each way; many 
more sorts may be grown in the same 
area but they never are as heavy as 
those grown in rows. The early crop 
is blanched where it grows, either by 
backing up with soil which is drawn 
in carefully about the stalks to hold 
them in an upright position as they 
develop, or through a more conven- 
ient means; that is. Celery blanchers 
of various types which are now obtain 
able. For late Fall and Winter use 
the seed is sown one-eighth of an inch 
deep in April and the plants set out 
Golden Celer ~ June or July. Stronger plants can 

en e ery obtained by trauisplanting from 

the seed-bed to give the plants several inches apart each way. This makes 
them stocky and develops a fibrous root system which wiU give quicker 
and better results than if they are set out in the garden. When raised 
in a frame sow your seed in a shaded position. In transplanting water 
thoroughly and shade from the midday sun for a few days. Be careful 
not to get any soil over the hearts of the plants. Give clean culture and 
one or two top dressings of nitrate of soda as the plants develop, and throw 
enough soil up to them to hold the stalks upright. The celery crop should 
never be worked or handled while the foliage is wet as this will tend to 
augment any disease there may be. Blanching is accomplished by taking 
up the plants with such soil as adheres to the roots, and packing them close 
together and upright in a trench 12 to 15 in. wide, and deep enough so that 
the tops of the leaves come about on the level of the soil. As cold, freezing 
weather approaches, the trench is covered with a mulch or with boards; 
a portion of the crop left for Winter use may be transferred to boxes and 
stored in the cellar. See Winter care of Celery. 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



193 



CHICORY— CHINESE CABBAGE— COLLARDS 

Sown in Spring one-half inch deep in rows 18 in. apart and thinned to 
6 in. apart, the Chicory (or Witloof) plant yields long, Parsnip-like roots 
by Fall, when they are dug and shorn of leaves to within IJ^ in. of the 
neck. The roots are then replanted 13^ to 2 in. apart in trenches and cov- 
ered with 8 in. of fine soil. Here they produce an abundance of blanched 
leaves which make .a splendid Winter salad; they can also be cooked as 
greens. 




Handy device for marking off rows in the vegetable garden 

Chinese, or Celery Cabbage (Pe-Tsai) is a very desirable vegetable, a 
native of China, is easily and rapidly grown in good garden soil. It requires 
about the same treatment as Cabbage, but as it has a tendency to run to 
seed in the hot Summer months, sowing should be deferred until July or 
early August . Cover seed 3^ to 3^ in . in rows 24 to 30 in . apart , and thin the 
young plants to 18 to 20 in . The heads , which are easily blanched , resemble 
weU-grown Cos Lettuce. They make a very palatable dish when cooked 
like Spinach or Cabbage, or they can be used raw as a salad. 

Collards are of tall growth and produce a loose cluster of leaves. The 
variety known as Georgia, which endures extreme heat, is largely grown 
in the Southern States and used as a substitute for Cabbage, the leaves 
being tender and of fine flavor. Sow seed in rows 24 to 30 in. apart and 
cover to depth of 3^ in., allowing the plants to stand 18 to 24 in. apart in 
the row. 

CORN 

To get an extra early crop, a hundred or so plants may readily be started 
in small paper pots in a coldframe, not to be planted until a week or two be- 
fore it would be safe to plant outdoors. For this purpose, Golden Bantam, 
which is extra hardy and also dwarf in growth, is particularly good. As 
Corn remains at its best but a few days, succession should be provided for, 

(Continued on page 196) 



194 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Plan of a Practical Vegetable Garden 
36 ft. by 48 ft. 

A garden plan must of necessity be arbitrary as to area. It is 
easily made adaptable to any given piece of ground, through a little 
mental effort. Either enlarge or reduce to fit the case, but do not fail 
to follow the details of locating the various rows; correct position of 
one row of plants in relation to its neighbor row, is an essential fea- 
ture in the vegetable garden; this for air, sunshine and succession 
crops. 

The Asparagus bed is 6 by 14 ft.; the Strawberry bed 6 by 19 ft., 
with a 3-ft. path between. The distance between each row is given 
in inches. The sections devoted to Hybrid Tea and Tea Roses and to 
Annual and Perennial Herbaceous Flowering Plants are each 4 by 19 
ft., while the Hotbed and Coldframe section is 12 ft. by 6 ft., with 3 ft. 
path below, all other paths being 2 ft. wide. 

This garden is intended to be shut in by a wire-netting fence, 
not less than 4 ft. high. The ground for the "following" or "succes- 
sion" crops must be dug as deeply, and be as well pulverized and as 
freely fertilized as for the first crops, not merely raked over. 

The planting of certain seeds in the various rows has been care- 
fully thought out so as to obtain necessary light and space and with a 
view to the "succession" crops, for no garden can be considered a 
successful garden which does not give at least two crops in a season 
over the greater part of its area. Thus, the early Cabbage, Cauli- 
flower and Lettuce plants will have matured before the Tomatoes 
overgrow them. The early Sweet Corn should be pulled out as the 
ears are gathered to let in the light on the Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts. 
Cucumbers in Summer can be grown in coldframes and hotbed. 

As regards Tomatoes, early Lettuce, Cabbage, Egg .Plants, 
Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, and Peppers, the seeds of these 
should not be sown directly in the garden rows, but plants raised 
from seeds sown in hotbeds or frame, should be transplanted into 
these rows. 

This is one of the most practical garden layouts ever prepared for 
the amateur and we trust the amateur will appreciate it. It was 
planned by Joseph H. Sperry, a veteran gardener. 



Plan of a Practical Vegetable Garden 

This Garden is 36 ft. wide by 48 ft. long 



i''' Tall Peas followed by Celery 



lU' Tall Peas followed by Celery 



it" Early Dwarf Peas followed by Celery 



(J'E^rly Dwarf Peas followed by Late Ca'bbage 



'»'Early Cabbage Plants Set Out Very Early 



" Early Cabbage Plants Set Out Very Early 



It' Elarly Cauliflower Set Out Very Early 



Late Sweet Corn 



Late Sweet Corn 



Brussels Sprouts 



Early Sweet Corn 



Late Cabbage 



Early Sweet Corn 



Tomato Plants 



Tomato Plants 



Tomato Plants 



Tohnato Plants 



li Early Cauliflower Set Out Very Early 



if 



Tomato Plants 



" Early Lettuce Plants Set Out Very Early 



Summer Bush Squash 



z»"Spinach followed by Bush Lima Beans 



Spinach 



'* Spinach followed by Bush Lima Beans 



Radish 



1^ Radish followed by Bush Lima Beans 



l-' Early Turnip followed by Bush Lima Beans 



PATH 



Asparagus Bed 



Entrance 
Gate 



PATH 






PATH 


11 
\ 






>* 

Exit 




Strawberry Bed 

t X /? ^. 


Gate 




SOUTH 



For description of this Gardeii see page 194 



196 



GARDEN GUIDE 



{Continued /ram page 193) 

either by making a small planting every week or ten days, or planting an 
early, a medium and a late variety at the same time, early in May, early 
in Jime, and early in July. In the open ground plant 5 or 6 seeds 13^^ to 2 
in. deep in hills 3 ft. apart each way. A mistake that is sometimes made is 
to leave too many stalks in a hill. Thin out to three or four for best results. 
Give good clean culture with a slight hiUing up when the plants are 12 or 
18 in. high; this is about all the plants require. It is often more convenient 
to plant and cultivate, and just as good results can be obtained by sowing 
in continuous rows or driUs 3 ft. apart instead of in hills, the plants being 
left to stand about a foot apart. Remove all suckers which develop from 
the base of the main stalk. A disease known as smut, which appears in 
a sooty mass on Corn, is very destructive. Remove and burn the affected 
parts as soon as discovered. 



CORN SALAD— CRESS 

Com Salad, or Fetticus, is grown as a substitute for Lettuce during 
the late Fall months as it does not thrive during warm weather. Sow thinly 
in late August or early September, in drills 12 to 15 in. apart and about ^ 
in. deep. Thin the seedhngs to 3 in. It is very hardy, and with a light 
mulching of hay, may be had after other salad plants are gone. 

Cress, the refreshing, pungent little salad or garnishing plant, some- 
times caUed Pepper Grass, may be easily grown throughout the season. 
Successive sowings should be made, as it quickly runs to seed. For a contin- 
uous supply, make small plantings every two weeks in rows 12 in. apart, 
covering the seeds 3^ in. deep. 

CUCUMBERS 

For Cucumbers a light, warm soil is preferable, but they will succeed 
in almost any garden soil, provided there is good drainage. When all 
danger of frost is past sow the seed about 3^ in. deep in hills 4 ft. apart 
each way. Much earlier crops and better results may be had, by starting 
the plants in paper pots in coldframes as recommended for Sweet Com. 
It is well, however, to use larger pots — say, 4 in. square. Fill each about 
half full with a compost of hght soil and old, thoroughly rotted manure. 
Thin out to three or four plants, and after they have been set out long 

enough to become 
established, thin to 
two plants to a 
hill. Keep 'the soil 
between the plants 
well cultivated 
until the vines cover 
it. In setting out 
started plants the 
hills or rows should 
be enriched with 

Emerald Cucumber well rotted manure 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



197 



or guano or blood and bone, the same as 
when planting seeds. A method of insuring 
a good standing from seed is to soak half 
of the seed you have to plant over night 
in warm water, dry it off in fine dust or 
land plaster, and mix with the rest, plant 
ing two together, covering some prefer- 
ably a little deeper than others. The ad- 
vantage of this is that whatever the con- 
ditions that follow planting may be, 
enough of the seeds to make a good stand 
are pretty certain to come through. If the 
vines are wanted to continue bearing for a 
long time, pick off fruits as they mature, 
whether they are needed or not. For late 
use and for pickling, a second planting 
may be made the latter part of June. 

The greatest difficulty in succeed- 
ing with Cucumbers and other curcubits 
or vine crops, is to protect them from the Egg Plant 

striped yellow beetle, the Melon louse and 

the black wilt. In order to make sure of a crop give a general 
purpose spraying every ten days or two weeks, using a soapy-nicotine 
spray. As it is essential to cover the under side of the leaves as well as the 
surface, an angle nozzle should be used and a sprayer sufficiently strong to 
produce a good mist spray. Where such a sprayer is not available, dry 
spraying or dusting may be substituted, keeping the plants well covered 
from early growth. 

EGG PLANT 

The Egg Plant is another vegetable which revels in the richest soil 
and an abundance of moisture. General culture is the same as that 
recommended for Tomatoes, except that the plants do not have to be staked 
up or pruned. The plants should be grown in pots and for best results 
repotted once or twice so that they are in three and a half or fours when set 
outdoors, which should not be until after Tomatoes are planted. If the 
hotbed or coldframe is used for propagation, sow the seed one-half inch 
deep and transplant once or twice before transferring the plants to their 
permanent place in the garden. Set the plants 2 ft. apart in rows 23^ to 
3 ft. apart. The most dangerous enemy to be encountered in growing 
Egg Plants is the striped Potato bug. Arsenate of lead paste may jbe used, 
but if a few plants are grown, hand picking (knocking the beetles off with a 
small stick or paddle into a pan half full of kerosene and water) will prove 
effective and will give little trouble, as the beetles are killed before they eat. 



ENDIVE— HORSE RADISH 

Endive is another salad grown mostly for Fall use. Sow the same as 
Lettuce in June or July, and thin to about 12 in. It requires blanching 
to be ready for use. The individual heads may be tied up loosely with 




198 



GARDEN GUIDE 



raffia, or two 6- or 8-m. boards 
temporarily nailed together in an 
inverted V shape may be placed 
over the row, blanching a section 
at a time. Do not work crop when 
the leaves are wet. 

While only a small quantity of 
Horse Radish may be needed for 
home use, a few plants may be 
grown as easily as not. Instead of 
seeds, sets or small pieces of roots 
are planted. They are perfectly 
hardy, and can be taken up in 
Fall or early Spring, just as 
wanted. Two dozen roots will 
give an ample supply for a small 
family. Its chief cultural require- 
ments are plenty of moisture and 
a deep, rich soil. Set plants 12 
to 15 in. apart in rows 24 to 30 
Kohl-Rabi, White Vienna in. apart. 

KALE— KOHLRABI— LEEKS 

Kale or Borecole is a vegetable which may be described as a loose-leaf 
Cabbage. It is cooked as greens. It is improved by frost and it is so hardy 
it may be had from outdoors in the garden when all other greens have long 
since perished. It is given about the same treatment as late Cabbage. 
Sow seed 3^ in. deep in rows 2 ft. apart and thin to 18 to 24 in. apart in 
the row. Only extra hardy varieties may be sown in September and win- 
tered over, like Winter Spinach. 

Kohl-Rabi, a comparatively little used vegetable, is very easily grown, 
and if cooked before the roots or bulbs get too large, is very good. Sow in 
drills 18 to 24 in. apart. Cover the seed Yi in. deep and thin the young 
plants to 6 to 8 in. For an extra early crop it may easily be started under 
glass and transplanted. To have it for use throughout the season, sow 
succession crops, as for Turnips. Kohl-Rabi flourishes best in the Spring, 
early Summer and Fall. 

The Leek, to obtain full development, requires a long season of growth. 
Sow in drills 18 in. apart, covering the seed Yi in. deep. Thin the plants to 
stand 4 in. apart. Leeks transplant readily, and seedlings started in the 
hotbed or coldframe in April or early May may be transplanted in June, 
preferably to drills which have been enriched with old manure or the start- 
ing mixture. The lower portion of the stem should be blanched for use 
like Celery. This may be done by keeping the earth drawn up to it, or the 
plants may be taken up and stored in a trench like late Celery. They are 
very hardy and the flavor is greatly improved by freezing. 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



199 



LETTUCE 

While Lettuce can be grown from early Spring until late in the season 
(and with the use of frames the year around) , success with it will depend 
very largely upon using the right type for the particular season or condi- 
tions under which each successive crop is to be grown. The number of 
varieties in general culture is so great that it is rather confusing, but if 
the gardener gets the several distinct types fixed in his mind, he can make 
his selection intelligently. All varieties can be classed in general in two 
groups: the loose-leaf and the headed. The former are the easier to grow, 
but as a general rule, the latter are considered of better quality, although 
that is mostly a matter of taste. The loose-leaf type is suitable for growing 
under glass, being for this purpose much less subject to the dreaded rot, 
which quickly destroys head lettuce under glass, and also for growing out- 
doors in Spring, early Summer and Fall. With irrigation it can be grown 
easily throughout the Summer months, but in dry weather runs quickly to 
seed. The head types of Lettuce may be considered in three sections: 
the butter head, the cabbage head and the tub. Of these, the loose-leaf 
is suitable for Spring and Fall use. The hard or crisp heading sorts take 
longer to mature but form heads which resist the heat and are slower to 
run to seed, and are good for mid-Summer growth; they are not suitable for 
forcing. The Cos type, most varieties of which have to be tied up to blanch 
thoroughly, is quite distinct in appearance and flavor from the other types, 
but is easily grown and should be given a place in most gardens, even in 
small gardens, for variety. It is suitable for use during mid-Summer and 
early Fall. To be of the best quality Lettuce must be quickly grown. It 
requires an abundance of moisture and a high percentage of available 
nitrogen in the fertilizer or manure. Well-rotted horse manure is particu- 
larly adapted to the growing of this crop. The best method of growing 
Lettuce in the garden for ordinary family use is to sow the seed thinly 
3^ to 34 in. deep in rows 12 to 15 in. apart. A mistake often made ih sowing 
the seed in drills in the 
open is to let the plants 
stand too thickly. Thin them 
out as soon as they are well 
started to 6 or 8 in. in the 
row, or even more in rich soil 
under irrigation. To have a 
succession of crops around the 
year start plants in January 
or February for setting out 
into the frames, and make 
a small sowing every two 
weeks or so thereafter, chang- 
ing the type you use accord- 
ing to the changing seasons. 
Partial shading during 
the hot Summer months 
will help to improve the 

quality of the Lettuce. Tender Lettuce 




200 




GARDEN GUIDE 

MELONS 



1 



Muskmelon 



Melons are delicious in the hot Sum- 
mer days, and quite easy to grow. Make 
a little mound about 2 ft. in diameter, 
slightly above the surrounding ground 
and, in its center, plant four or five seeds, 
about 6 in. apart and 2 in. deep. Two 
seeds may be put in each hole, but finally 
thin out to four plants on each hill. When 
these have made growth, about 2 ft. long, 
pinch out the top. This will accelerate 
lateral growth, and on these you will soon 
see the young female or fruit blossoms, 
which develop with amazing rapidity. 
A piece of glass, slate or shingle 
put under each fruit wiD keep them 
off the ground and assist in hastening the matm'ity of fine, well- 
netted specimens. When the fruit will leave the vine without being forced, 
it is ripe and ready for the table. In northern locations where the seasons 
are short, it is always a good plan to start at least part of the crop early in 
paper pots or in frames. Heavy soil should be avoided, if possible. If it 
must be used, add plenty of sand and leaf mold to the soil in the hill when 
preparing it, and raise the hill shghtly; keep it flat but bring it a couple 
of inches above the ground level. Should any fungous diseases develop a 
spraying with arsenate of lead will usually be effective. Among good 
varieties are Honey Dew, Rocky Ford, Emerald Gem, Hackensack; but 
there are many others. Sometimes a local variety is the very best to plant; 
watch your neighbors and adopt any variety which shows improvement, 
or some special worthy feature. Never plant Melons near Cucumbers, 
Gourds or Squash, as they cross-fertilize and become worthless. 

MUSHROOMS 

This crop is of such a character that unless one has patience and a 
good deal of time and attention to bestow upon it, its cultivation had better 
not be attempted. A hberal quantity of stable manure is necessary. This 
has to be coUected, the long strawy material removed, the heap fermented, 
and then the whole trodden firmly into a box, case, frame or bed in a dark, 
moist cellar, or under the benches of a greenhouse. Dryness is deadly. 
The bed must be kept moist and warm, and the air of the place where the 
beds are should be moist; at any rate hot dry. The temperature should be 
55 deg. to 60 deg. or 70 deg. in warm weather. 

Spawn, in the form of dry cakes a foot or so square, can be got from 
the seedsman. He can also explain the general methods of cultivation or 
one of a number of excellent books or Experiment Station pubhcations can 
be consulted. The cake is broken into pieces an inch square and these are 
buried in the hotbed, which should be 12 in. to 18 in. deep. The heat in 
the bed should have receded to 80 deg. Then place a layer of 4 in. of soil 
over the bed and beat this level. Whenever it gets dry, or before it gets 
dry, water with tepid water. In five to ten weeks the mushrooms should 
appear. Sometimes the surface of the bed is covered with straw. Beds 
can be made out of doors early in April, 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



201 



MUSTARD— OKR A 

The leaves of the newer, larger growing varieties of Mustard can be 
used either as a salad or as greens, some of which attain a foot or more in 
height. Three or four crops may be sown during the season to supply a 
succession. Those, plan ted in Summer or early Fall will usually give the 
best results. Sow thinly in drills 15 or 18 in. apart, and cover the seed 34 
in. deep. Thin out and cultivate as you would Lettuce. 

Okra may be grown easily if a rich soil and a sunny position are pro- 
vided. It is very tender and should not be planted until the ground is 
thoroughly warm. The rows should be from 2 to 3 ft. apart. Sow the seed 
one inch deep and thin the plants to 18 in. or more, to give room for ample 
development. The pods should be used while they are still young and 
tender. # 



ONIONS 



Onions are used in all stages of development, from seedlings as big as 
a pencil, eaten raw, to the mature, dried bulb. They may be grown from 
seed, from prickers (seedlings started under glass and set out later in the 
garden), sets (which are very small bulbs of standard varieties, grown 
small especially for this purpose), or from the perennial multiplier, the 
Potato or Egyptian Onion. The last three propagate themselves by multi- 
plying, either at the roots or at the top of the seed stalks, the cluster of 
bidblets being divided up and set out for the following crop. They may be 
planted either in early Spring or in late Fall. 

Onions from seed yield very heavily in rich soil, but the preparation 
of the seed-bed must be of the best as the seed is fine. Sow 3^ in. deep in 
drills 1 ft. apart and cover firmly; eight to 
twelve seeds are drilled in to the inch of row. 
Thin to 2 or 3 in. The young onions thus 
pulled out are most appetizing eaten raw 
with a dip of salt. In addition to rich and 
very thoroughly prepared soil, the most 
important thing in growing Onion seed is 
to keep ahead of the weeds. The plants 
when they first come up are very small, not 
much bigger than blades of grass, and the 
whole crop may very easily be lost through 
neglect in this regard. Go through it with 
the wheel hoe and also by hand wit hin a 
week or ten days after they break ground. 
Continued clean culture and occa- 
sional light appUcations of nitrate of soda 
will keep the crop developing vigorously 
till mid-Summer. Lime in the soil and . ^. 

soot sprinkled along the rows will tend to ^'^'^'^^ ^'"^ indispensable 
mitigate the damage done by the Onion ;^owrmat"l^^an*d%^fk! 
maggot. Ine most certam remedy for the fast relish 




202 



GARDEN GUIDE 



maggot, however, is a poison spray or bait for the flies, which can be applied 
only with a strong pressure sprayer. When the plants get too large to go 
through them with the wheel hoe, the shde or scuffle hoe should be used, 
the kind with guides or runners in front of the blades, which hold it at an 
even depth, making the work easier and lessening the danger of injury to 
the bulbs. As soon as the tops die down the bulbs should be pulled and 
laid in windrows, and raked over every day or two imtil thoroughly dried; 
then they may be taken and the tops cut off, and spread out on a floor, or in 
an open shed, or packed in slatted Onion crates, which hold about a bushel 
apiece, to dry off thoroughly before being packed away for the Winter. 

For transplanting, to get large bulbs, the seeds should be started under 
glass in February or early March, and transplanted in April or early May, 
setting the plants about 3 in. apart. Seed should be sown very thinly in 
flats, with rows 3 or 4 in. apart. Keep them as near the glass as possible, 
and transfer them to the coldframes as soon as it is safe, so as to get 
tardy, stocky plants. In transplanting the roots are trimmed back to 
within three-quarters of an inch or so, and half of the tops removed, when 
they can be handled readily, and practically none will drop out if the work 
is properly done. Sets planted early in the Spring by pushing the bulbs 
down into ground until they are slightly covered wiU make a quick growth 
and give Onions ready for use before those from "prickers" or seed sown in 
the open. Rich soil and two or three hoeings is aU that wiU be required. 



PARSLEY— PARSNIPS 

For Summer use sow Parsley seed 3^ to 3^ in. deep in rows 12 to 18 in. 
apart early in Spring, first soaking it thoroughly a day or two, for it is very 
slow to germinate. Thin the plants to 3 to 6 in. apart when they are well 
started. Give plenty of water to keep the growth succulent and tender. 
For Winter use sow a packet of seed in late July or August, and when the 
Httle plants have become well established, transplant to pots or a small 
box, or to a coldframe. A flat of Parsley in a sunny kitchen window wiU 
furnish garnishing throughout the Winter . Fresh sowings of Parsley should 
be made each Spring, as it runs to seed the second year. 

Parsnips are easily grown, but to produce long, smooth roots requires 
deep, rich soil. Another essential is to get them spwn very early in the 

Spring, as the 
longer the season 
the better the 
crop resulting, as 
a rule. Sow the 
seed in drflls 18 
in . apart , covering 
Yi in. Thinning 
to 3 to 4 in. apart 
in the row should 
be done ear/y , 
as the long roots 

Hollow Crown Parsnips and side branches 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



203 




Note nine (9) Peas in pod . It does 
not pay to grow inferior sorts 



get tangled together, and those that are 
left are apt to be seriously injured by the 
process of thinning if it is not promptly 
attended to. "Hiey will be ready for use 
in the Fall and can be used from the 
ground until freezing weather, when 
enough to last through the Winter should 
be stored, the remainder being left in the 
ground for Spring. 

PEAS 

Peas from any one planting will re- 
main in the best -of condition for use 
only for a comparatively short time. To 
have a constant supply throughout the 
season, a succession of plantings should 
be made. Under irrigation they can be 
had from early June until frost, other- 
wise dry' weather is pretty sure to cause 
a failure of the crop during late July and 
August, so that it does not pay to plant 
after late May until the latter part 
of July. 

The dwarf varieties do not bear as heavily nor for as long a period as 
the climbing sorts, but for small gardens they have the advantage that they 
are economical in space and do not require support and consequently are 
grown exclusively by many home gardeners. One or two good dwarf sorts 
sown every ten days or two weeks will maintain a supply. If the tall 
varieties are used, each planting will bear for two to three weeks, so that 
fewer plantings are required to maintain the succession. 

The smooth, extra hardy varieties may be planted as early in the Spring 
as the ground may be worked. The others, however, should not be put in 
until a week or two later. If the soil is wet and somewhat heavy, make 
early plantings near the surface. If well dried out, they may be planted at 
the bottom of a trench 4 or 5 in. deep, and covered only 1 to 2 in. deep at 
first, being filled in as the plants grow. Get the roots well below the surface 
so that they do not feel so quickly the effects of dry weather. The rows for 
dwarf Peas should be 3 ft. apart and for the tall sorts 4 ft. In small gardens 
Peas are often grown in double rows with a 6-in. space between. Do not 
allow Pea vines to lie on the ground . Tall varieties can be effectively staked 
up by brush or poultry netting, while the dwarf-growing sorts give better 
results when provided with low brush to cHmb upon. A good, clean culture 
and protection with kerosene emylsion or nicotine spray (if the Pea louse 
puts in an appearance) and getting the brush or trellis in as soon as the 
plants break ground (in the case of the tall or climbing varieties) are the 
main points in achieving success with this crop. 



PEPPERS 

The instructions given for Egg Plants apply also to Peppers. Be sure, 
however, to choose a variety or type suitable and adapted to your condi- 
tions and purposes. In the Northern States, it is well to stick to the earlier 



204 



GARDEN GUIDE 



sorts, unless you grow your own plants and can have extra large ones ready 
for setting out. The small, pungent varieties are grown for pickling and 
flavoring, and the large, mild ones for stuffed Peppers and other table dishes. 

POTATOES 

Of all field and garden products the Potato is the most valuable. On 
the menu of at least one meal every day in the year the humble Spud appears 
as the leading vegetable. 

In preparing seed Potatoes 
for planting, much attention 
should be paid to the eyes or 
buds, these being the vegetative 
parts of the tulDer. They are 
clustered mainly at the flower or 
seed end. The other end, called 
the stem end, usually has only 
one or two eyes. A test of the 
producing capacity of the eyes, 
carried out by the Monmouth 
County (N. J.) Farm Demon- 
stration Office, showed that, cal- 
culated on the acre basis, the 
flower or seed ends had an ad- 
vantage in yield of eighty per 
cent, over the stem ends, and 
twenty per cent, over the middle 
eyes, while the latter produced 
fifty per cent, more than the 
stem ends. It is advisable then, 
for the home garden, to reject 
the stem ends unless you have 
ample room. In case they are 
used, a good eye from the 
middle of the tuber should be 
included in the piece to be 
planted. Too many eyes make 
for foHage, but not for Potatoes. 

The Potato should be cut so that two strong eyes are left on each 
piece. Penetrate as deeply into the tuber as possible, as the plant in its 
early stages of development depends largely upon the mother Potato for 
its sustenance. Some gardeners favor the use of small whole Potatoes for 
seeds, but those of medium size, cut to two good eyes, are generaUy pre- 
ferred. The blossom ends are the first to start growth and yield the earliest 
crop. 

To get extra early results select clean, medium sized Potatoes of an 
early variety , and cut in quarters or halves, pushing the pieces down into 
a flat of sand till they are nearly covered and as close together as they 
wiU go. If these are kept in a sunny place, protected from frost and 
watered, the roots will make a vigorous growth, while the tops will remain 
very short and stocky, so they wiU be only 2 to 4 in. in length when they 




Making provision for Winter 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



205 



are ready to set out. An astonishing growth will result during the first two 
or three weeks. 

A well-enriched sandy loam is best suited to the raising of Potatoes, 
though they may be successfully grown in any good, well-drained garden 
soil. Prepare the ground ih the same way as for general crops. Planting 
should begin as* early in the Spring as the ground can be worked. Late 
or main crop Potatoes are planted in May or early June. The row or trench 
method is decidedly the best and most economical for the ordinary home 
garden. Dig a trench 5 to 7 in. deep. Apply a good dressing of well-rotted 
stable manure or fertilizer. Cover with two inches of soil, upon which set 
the seed Potatoes 12 to 15 in. apart. Then finally cover with soil to a depth 
of 3 to 4 in. The distance between the rows should be 2 to 3 ft. Work up 
the soil about the plants when they have made a good growth. To keep the 
ground clear of weeds and at the same time conserve the moisture, cultiva- 
tion should be maintained throughout the growing season. The hand hoe 
is the most convenient tool to use in this operation. 

When the vines die off the Potatoes are ready for harvesting, which 
should be done in fine, dry weather, and completed before the advent of 
frost or very cold weather. Cold rains cause Potatoes to become sodden and 
of inferior quality. Potatoes soon become green and unsuitable for table 
use if they are allowed to lie exposed to the sun after digging. Store 
them in a darkened, dry, well-ventilated, frost-proof cellar that has a 
relatively low and even temperature. 

To make sure of success it will be necessary to protect the Potato plants 
from early and late bhght and the Colorado beetle, known as the Potato 
bug. Saving the vines 
means saving the Pota- 
toes. Every ten days 
or two weeks after the 
foliage has well devel- 
oped, spray with Paris 
Green or Bordeaux mix- 
ture, to which arsenate 
of lead has been added; 
this combination spray, 
while combating insect 
pests, is effective as 
a preventive of disease. 
Careful watch must be 
kept for all insect troub- 
les, and particularly 
for the aphis, which, un- 
checked, will ruin a crop 
in less than a week. 
Use a nicotine solution 
for aphis. Consult also 
Insect Chapter. 




Potato tuber, considerably reduced 

S, stem end, or end to which it was attached to the 
parent plant the previous season. F, the so-called 
flowering or growing end ; here there are usually too 
many buds or eyes — several of these had better be 
scooped out before planting. The lines show how this 
particular tuber may be cut up for planting, but the 
eyes vary in each ^and every tuber 



206 



GARDEN GUIDE 



PUMPKINS 

A few hills of sugar Pumpkins, planted in the Sweet Corn, among pole 
Beans or along the edge of the garden, where they can run over the grass 
or trained over bush, etc. , will give plenty of material for a number of pies. 
The culture is the same as that recommended for Winter Squashes, running 
varieties, except that they mature more quickly, and can, therefore, be 
planted later. Avoid planting Pumpkins near Melons, Squashes and 
Cucumbers, as they are liable to cross-fertilize and produce inferior fruit. 

RADISHES 

These are easily grown in almost any soil, but for the best quality 
the soil should be rather sandy, and a good coating of land plaster or gypsum 
incorporated with it before seed is sown. Avoid manures and fertilizers 
rich in nitrogen, as these are apt to cause misshapen roots and too great 
leaf growth in proportion. Sow broadcast or in drills 8 to 12 inches apart 
and cover 3^ in. deep; thin to 1 to 2 in. Two mistakes most often made in 
growing Radishes are to sow too many at a time and not to thin them 
enough or early enough to have them sufficiently far apart in the row. 
Give each plant room to develop. Radishes are easily raised under glass, 
requiring only 40 to 45 degrees temperature. The quick mati^ing kinds 
may be sown between rows of Carrots, Lettuce or Beets and gathered before 
the latter need all the room. A succession of roots in the best of condition, 
under glass or outside, may be had by sowing every ten days or two weeks. 

RHUBARB 

One of the most valuable of our 
garden products, requires a minimum of 
care for a maximum of yield. 

Six to a dozen plants will supply 
a medium sized family. The soil 
should be made very rich and dug 
as deep as possible. Crowns taken from 
old estabUshed clumps are usually used 
for planting. Put them 3 to 4 ft. apart 
each way. The crowns themselves should 
be planted quite shallow, being covered 
with about 4 in. of soil. Plants set out 
in the Spring will bear quite abundantly 
the following season; or young plants 
sown from seed in the Spring, and trans- 
planted in June to temporary rows in 
the garden, may be set out the foUow- 
Scarlet Globe Radish ing Spring in their permanent place. 




THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



which should be, if possible, a sheltered spot, where they will not interfere 
with the cultivation of other things. In the seed bed the rows should be 
one foot apart and the seed sown to 1 in. deep, the seedHngs being 
thinned out to 10 to 12 in. Rhubarb, like Asparagus, stores much of its 
early Spring plant food in the thick root stalks over Winter. Therefore, 
manuring or fertihzing in the Fall will help the following crop. Dressings 
of nitrate of soda in Spring also produce splendid results, but be careful to 
keep it off the leaves. To bring one or two stools into early bearing, cover 
at opening of Spring with 4 or 5 in. manure. Set anything around the 
plants which will keep the heat in; a melon frame is ideal. Do not neglect to 
remove all seed-bearing stalks as quickly as they form. 

RUTA BAGA— SALSIFY— SEA KALE 

Rutabaga, the Swedish or Russian Turnips, differ from the ordinary 
kind in that they grow much larger and have a longer season in which to 
mature properly. They should be sown early in July, in drills 18 to 24 in. 
apart with a covering of 3^ to 1 in. As the ground is frequently dry at this 
time, firm the seed well in, pressing the soil over the row with the back of a 
hoe or with the sole of the foot. Thin out to 6 in. or more apart, according 
to size of the variety grown and the richness of the soil. 

Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster, has a very decided flavor from which it 
gets its common name. Unless you have used it and know you like it, 
plant only a small quantity. Its culture is easy as it is free from injury by 
either insects or disease. The only trouble in growing it is that it tends to 
become undesirably forked. If possible, plant only on soil manured the 
previous season, and avoid fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen. It requires 
about the same season of growth and about the same general culture as 
Parsnips, but the rows may be put nearer together as the fohage is not so 
large. 

Sea Kale, which shares with Rhubarb and Asparagus the great advan- 
tage of being a perennial plant, yielding year after year, may be grown easily 
from seed or from sets — pieces of the roots such as are used in planting 
Horse Radish. To grow from seed sow in April to 1 in. deep in drills 
15 in. apart; thin out to 6 in. Plant early the following season as you would 
Rhubarb, except that 3 ft. will be far enough apart between the plants. 
The Spring growth must be blanched for use. This is accomphshed by 
shovehng around the crown of each plant in the Fall a peck or so of clean 
sand, and then throwing up over this, soil from between the rows. This 
banking up is left in place until after the Spring growth has started; then 
the soil is hoed or shoveled away, the ground enriched with bone and ma- 
nure, and cultivated occasionally during the rest of the season, or the plants 
when grown may betaken up and forced in frames, hotbeds, or the green- 
house. In this case they are handled in much the same way as Witloof 
Chicory. 

SPINACH— SQUASH 

As with Lettuce and some other crops, success with Spinach depends 
largely on choosing a variety suitable for the season for which it is wanted. 
For Spring use Winter Spinach is sown the previous Fall and carried over 
with a mulching of hay, straw or dried litter. Iil^pring two or three suc- 

{Continued on page 210) 



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^10 



GARDEN GUIDE 



cession plantings can be made to maintain the supply until Summer. Sow 
about 3^ in. deep in rows 12 to 18 in. apart, and thin to 4 in. 

New Zealand Spinach is a distinct type, its greatest charm being the 
fact that it resists heat and grows luxuriantly during hot weather. It is of 
branching habit, spreading 3 or 4 ft., and thrives in any good garden soil. 
The seed is very hard and should be soaked in tepid water for several hours 
to aid germination. When the ground has become warm in May, sow in 
rows about 3 ft. apart, covering the seed one inch and thinning to 12 to 18 
in. in the row. Another method — and a good one — is to sow in hills 2 ft. 
apart, leaving 2 or 3 plants in each hill. Pick off the thick, succulent leaves 
and tender shoots, preserving the main stems; the plants will immediately 
start out into new growth, yielding delicious greens until frost. 

Squash should be planted or started in frames, as recommeAded for 
the Cucumbers and Melons already discussed. For earliest use, plant a 




Crookneck Squash / 



few hills of Scalloped or Crookneck type of Summer variety. These may 
be had in the bush form, thus taking up comparatively little space. There 
are a few varieties, such as Fordhook and Delicata, which will serve for 
both Summer and Winter use. Bush varieties may be planted in hills 
4 or 5 ft. apart each way, while for running sorts the hills should be 7 to 8 
ft. apart to allow for proper development. Cover the seed to 1 in. deep. 
Put 8 or 10 seeds in each hill and thin to 2 or 3 of the strongest plants. 
If the plants are kept well dusted with tobacco or wood ashes during the 
early stages of growth, it will help to discourage the appearance of the 
insects likely to attack them. Success of the late or Winter varieties may 
be made much more certain by starting them in paper pots in frames and 
setting out. The first sign of the deadly Squash borer is Hkely to be a 
slight wilting of the leaves on a hot , bright day . Make a thorough examina- 
tion at once at the base of the stem, and if you find a small hole from which 
a gummy, yellowish matter has exuded, slit the thin cavity lengthwise until 
you find the intruder. Then cover the joints of the stem with a little 
soil; new roots will form and the plant will go on growing. • 

SWISS CHARD, 

Swiss Chard, or Spinach Beet, is now used by many gardeners in pref- 
erence to Spinach. One great advantage is that from a single planting in 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



211 



the Spring greens are available in 
abmidance until hard freezing 
weather. If the outside leaves 
only are taken in gathering a 
picking may be made every few 
days, or the large, mid-ribs may 
be stewed or creamed like Celery. 
Give the same culture as you give 
Beets, and thin the plants out to 
6 or 8 in. in the row. 

TOMATOES 

As soon as danger from late 
frost is over, set out the strongest, 
stockiest plants you can find, 
even if you have to pay several 
cents more apiece for them. A 
half handful or so of bone or 
guano in each hill will produce a 
strong start. However, a little 
chicken manure, or a well rotted 
. compost may be used for this 
purpose. Set the plants deep, even 
if you cover several inches of stem , 
as new roots will be formed all Swiss Chard 

the way up, and you will be 

better prepared, therefore, for dry weatner. For garden culture the 
plants should be supported by 4 to 5 ft. stakes, a trellis, or the specially 
prepared circular Tomato supports now available. Set them from 18 in. 
to 2 ft. apart in rows 3 to 4 ft. apart. As soon as the plants reach the 
tops of the stakes, nip off the terminal buds. This strengthens the vine 
and gives more nourishment to the fruit. Two dozen pjants or so, if they 
are well cared for, will provide an abundance of fruit for the average family. 
If you intend to can for Winter supply, fifty plants is none too many for a 
family of five or six persons. To get the earliest and the smoothest fruits, 
keep the vines tied up to stakes or trellis with raffia, strips of cloth, or soft 
twine, as they grow. Train each plant to not more than 3 or 4 stems by 
pinching off the side shoots which appear in the axils of the leaves. Avoid 
injuring the flowering or fruit buds. An intensive method of culture is to 
set plants 16 in. apart in a double row 18 in. apart, leaving a space of 3 ft. 
between the rows. The plants are pruned to single stems and trained to 
stakes 4 to 5 ft. long. By this method the fruits which do set will have more 
nourishment and more sunshine than if the vines are allowed to grow bushy 
and sprawl on the ground. Remove all suckers from the base of the plant. 
The newly set plants must be protected from cutworms with paper collars 
or poison baits, but strong, pot-grown plants are likely to defy them, as 
they are too large and tough to be eaten through readily. By the proper 
choice of early and late varieties a succession of good Tomatoes may be 
had. Just before danger of frost pick all the mature fruits and pack them 
in straw in a coldframe to rioen ud. In this way they may be had for 




212 



GARDEN GUIDE 



several weeks after frost. A green Tomato is excellent for pickles and 
preserves or it can be ripened in the cellar. It is highly advantageous to 
start Tomatoes from seed in a coldframe or in a box placed in the sunny 
window of the house. A small packet of seed will yield all the plants you 
require for transplanting, and there will be some left to fill up gaps. Sow 
in March, broadcast or in drills 5 in. apart, covering 3^ in. deep. In order 
to secure strong, vigorous plants transplant once or twice before planting 
in the open ground. If Potato bugs appear on the Tomato plants pick 




Tomatoes trained to a fence 



them off by hand. Light sprayings of Bordeaux mixture should prevent 
leaf-blight ajid leaf-curl. Fruits showing signs of rot on the blossom end 
mu3t be removed as soon as discovered. 



TURNIPS— VEGETABLE MARROW 

Seed for the first crop of Turnips may be put in as soon as the ground 
can be made ready in the Spring. Sow the seed 3^ in. to 1 in. deep in drills 
15 to 18 in. apart and thin out the plants to 4 to 6 in. As they are at their 
best for table use only for a short time, it is a good plan to plant an early 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



213 



and a medium or late 
variety about the 
first of each month 
through the season; 
in July a larger 
planting can be made 
for Winter use. While 
the tender seedlings 
are very small when 
they first come up, 
they grow very rap- 
idly, and unless thin- 
ning out is done at 
once, it is likely to White Milan Turnips 

give the crop a severe 

setback when it is attended to. Freshly manured soil should be 
avoided, and if there is a spot in the garden which is light and sandy, it is 
apt to produce roots of a milder flavor than heavy soil. 

Vegetable Marrow is another member of the curcubit family, very 
similar in habit of growth to the Summer Squashes, there being also bush, 
dwarf and running varieties. It is planted and grown in the same way. 
The fruits should be used while comparatively young. 



WATERCRESS 

There may be opportunities for the cultivation of fresh young plants 
of this delightful, pungent, and health giving salad. It delights in a slow- 
running brook, but may be also cultivated in beds where there is a very 
slight flow of water. It is easily raised from seeds, but more generally 
perhaps from cuttings. A good method of propagation is to sow the seed 
broadcast in a box or pan of very moist soil, covering about 34 in. When 
the seedlings are well started they can be transplanted near to the edges of 
a running stream or in the brook or pond . A bunch of the stems one buys 
from a greengrocer , stuck in the wet soil , will root readily , and the young 
tender sprouts from these will furnish the supply throughout the Summer. 



WATERMELONS 

The requirements of Watermelons are in general the same as those 
of the other curcubits already mentioned, except that much more space 
is demanded by them. The hills are put 6 to 8 ft. apart each way. In a 
small garden space can sometimes be saved by putting Watermelons (the 
same idea applies to Winter Squash and Sugar Pumpkins) near the edge 
of the garden where the vines can be allowed to run out over the grass, or 
supported on old Pea Brush or something similar along a fence, thus saving 
space. Plant only a variety adapted to your locality. In the Northern 
States the season is not long enough for any but the early varieties to 
mature, while this advantage can be overcome to a great extent by starting 
the plants in paper pots in frames two weeks or so earlier than the seeds 
could be planted outside. 




214 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Useful Pointers for the Vegetable Grower 



Don't be discouraged by failures. Keep 
at it and you'll win out. 

Poor germination is often due to the 
fact that the seeds are loosely covered in 
the soil. See that the earth about the 
seeds is well firmed or packed. This pre- 
vents air-spaces and the seed is brought in 
close contact with the soil. 

If transplanted during cloudy or showery 
weather , or in the early evening , plants will 
take hold more quickly. 

Tomatoes, Celery, Egg Plants and 
Peppers become more stocky and vigorous 
by being transplanted a second time, 
preferably to pots, before being set out 
in the open ground. 

Precautions to keep vegetable plants 
healthy and robust, especially by frequent 
cultivation, weeding and watering, will 
repay both time and expense. 

Where artificial watering is necessary, 
a good rule is to "water much and seldom 
— never little and often." Light watering 
in hot weather results in a baked surface. 

Always aim to procure seeds of the 
best quality. Poor seeds are expensive. 
The very best culture cannot make up 
for inferior seeds. 

Green Peas and Sweet Corn, freshly 
picked and eaten, yield all their delicacy 
of flavor and sweetness. These two, alone, 
will well repay for all your work on the 
vegetable garden. 

Aphids usually congregate on the under 
sides of the leaves. Direct your spray 
accordingly . 

Vegetables should be gathered before 
they become too ripe. This will ensure 
better quality and prolong the yielding 
period of the plants. 

Rutabagas, or "Swedes," have a richer 
flesh than ordinary Turnips and are better 
Winter keepers. 

Such vegetables as Tomatoes, Beans, 
Peppers and Egg Plants are heat lovers 
and grow much faster in the warmth and 
moisture of June than if an attempt is 
made to start them in the open ground a 
mpnth or so earlier. 

All vegetables respond readily to good 
treatment. The more quickly they are 
grown the more tender, crisp and nutri- 
tious they are. 

Don't transfer young plants to the open 
ground until soil and weather conditions 
are favorable for them to start and to 
keep on growing. 

It pays to raise and eat Beans. They 
contain more food elements than most other 
crops. Fine canned, too. 

Plant food in the forrn of liquid manure 
accomplishes wonders in a gar4en during 
mid-Summer. 

When Onion tops begin to fall it is a sign 
that they are ripe for gathering. The bulbs 



should be pulled, laid in windrows until 
thoroughly dried and then packed away 
for the Winter. 

To promote the success of garden crops, 
the soil must be finely prepared and the 
operation of seeding carefully and properly 
done. Select seeds that are of high vitality 
and facilitate germination and growth by 
providing continuous moisture, keeping the 
surface of the soil from baking or crusting. 
Practice early and persistent cultivation. 

Parsnips may remain in the ground all 
Winter without injury. 

On hillsides, be the slope ever so slight, 
plant rows across the hill, not up and down. 
They will thus escape washouts by heavy 
rains. 

Commence cultivating as soon as the 
plants appear above the ground. Give 
close attention to thinning and pack the 
soil around the roots of the plants to 
remain in the row. 

Potatoes may be dug any time after the 
vines are dead. Do not allow them to lie 
exposed to the sun. 

When ants appear in the garden you can 
get rid of the nuisance by smothering 
them in the nest. Pour into it a little car- 
bon bisulphide, cover with damp cloths, 
and the fumes will do the rest. 

Swdss Chard and New Zealand Spinach 
are among the most profitable vegetables 
of the home garden. They furnish delicious 
greens and from early Summer till frost are 
i mating the gardener to "cut and come 
again." Excellent canned. 

Crops should be rotated annually. By 
following one crop with another of an 
entirely different nature the soil is benefited 
and plants are not so liable to suffer from 
disease and injury by insects. 

Potato crop cultivation should cease 
when the vines are in flower. The small 
Potatoes are then developing and tne culti- 
vating tool might damage them. 

If possible, arrange the rows in the gar- 
den so that they run from north to south. 
Each row \vill in this way get its share of 
sunlight. 

It is impossible for plants to grow to per- 
fection unless they are properly thinned 
or transplanted. Thinning should be done 
when the seedlings are very small, but if 
wanted for transplanting they may be left 
until large enough to handle. 

Kohl-Rabi is at its best for family use 
when young and before the skin of the 
bulb toughens. It is then tender and of 
fine flavor. 

Plant everything in rows. This is better 
than sowing seeds broadcast . The weeding 
and cultivation will be much more easily 
and effectively done. 



THjg VEGETABLE GARDEN 



215 



Because of their great value as destroyers 
of numerous garden pests, you should not 
interfere with the activities of such visitors 
as frogs and toads, ground and lady bug 
beetles, bees, tree crickets, dragon flies, 
wasps, hornets, lizards, lace- wing flies, 
garden spiders, etc. 

Poultry and sheep manures are much 
more powerful than horse or cow manure 
in their action. They should be used cau- 
tiously, for it is possible to get the appli- 
cation so strong that the vegetables will 
be burned rather than improved. 

The use of slaked lime will be found 
highly beneficial. It seems to loosen the 
heavier soils; it affects the sandier soils and 
makea them more moisture-holding it 
sweetens the sour soils, and by its chemical 
influence with certain of the substances in 
the soil it renders available a liberal share 
of the earth's storehouse of food. It should 
be applied very early in Spring or in the 
Fall. A 50-lb. sack to a plot 30 ft. by 40 
ft. will be sufficient. 

When plants are first transplanted during 
hot weather they should be protected from 
the sun's rays for a few days, otherwise 
they are liable to wilt and die off. Use 
cheese-cloth, shaded sash or boards for 
shading. 

On no account allow your soil to bake . A 
rain shower or watering during extremely 
hot weather will often produce a hard crust 
over the soil. This is detrimental to plant 
growth and should be broken up without 
delay. 

When battling to suppress weeds, the 
gardner will find that early morning cultiva- 
tion will aid him materially. Exposure to 
the drying influence of the sun will wither 
most weeds before they have an opportunity 
to revive in the moist atmosphere of the 
evening. , . , . 

For essential hand tools in the garden, 
see Contents. 

Planting for succession: for instance, 
to have one crop of green Peas follow 
another by planting a first row say, April 
15 and another April 25, is all too often, 
much of a fallacy, yet all good gardeners 
strive for that result. The fault lie%with 
our variable climate . 

In making up formulas for the small 
garden, bear in mind that eight teaspoonfuls 
make one fluid ounce, sixteen ounces make a 
pint and there are eight pints in a gallon. 

THE VALUE OF DRAINAGE 

There are few places where some amount 
of drainage is not necessary. It may be 
merely the drainage around greenhouses to 
keep them dry and prevent rot, or it may 
be the improvement in land, or proper 
drainage of benches. All land that holds 
water for a day or so after heavy rain 
requires drainage. The benefits derivable 
are the sweetening of the soil, making it 
accessible to roots to a much greater depth, 



freeing it of stagnant water, and ^allowing 
healthy action to take place. Cylindrical 
tiles of 23^2 in. diameter, set from 23^ ft. 
to 3j[^ ft. deep, according to the stiffness or 
sogginess of the soil, are recommended; 
these to be 30 ft. apart. 



METHODS OF TESTING SOILS 
FOR ACIDITY 

Probably the simplest test for ascertain- 
ing whether a soil is acid, that is, lacking in 
calcium carbonate, is by the use of litmus 
paper which can be obtained at any drug- 
store. Buy a few slips of the blue kind and 
be careful to keep it in a tightly corked 
glass vial and not to handle with the 
fingers which themselves may contain 
sufficient acid to turn it pink. A reliable 
way to make the test is to place one or two 
small pieces of the blue paper in the bottom 
of a glass tumbler. Upon these lay a piece 
of blotting paper cut to exactly the size of 
the glass and on this place an inch or two of 
the soil to be tested. Moisten this soil 
thoroughly with rain or distilled water until 
it is wet enough to saturate the blotting 
paper, then cover the tumbler and leave it 
for from half an hour to an hour. At the 
end of this time turn it upside down and 
notice the condition of the paper. If it 
has turned from blue to pink the soil is 
acid. If it has remained blue, the soil is 
either neutral or more probably alkaline. 

The only disadvantage of this test is that 
it gives no idea as to the degree of acidity. 
For that matter it may not always be 
accurate, in that careless handling or other 
local conditions may cause the paper to 
turn pink even though there is no apprecia- 
ble amount of acid in the soil. For these 
reasons, persons who have occasion to 
test soils for acidity would do well to 
familiarize themselves with a more recently 
evolved meihod and one which is only 
slightly more complicated than the litmus 
paper test. 

This test was designed by Prof. E. Truog, 
of the University of Michigan, and not only 
detects positively the presence of acid in 
the soil, but also indicates the degree of 
that acid and, consequently, the amount 
of lime required to neutralize it. It is 
based upon the chemical principle that 
when zinc sulfid comes in contact with any 
form of soil acid, hydrogen sulfid gas is 
formed; and when this gas comes in contact 
with lead acetate, lead sulfid, a black 
chemical is formed. 

In making the test, one simply places a 
small, measured quantity of the soil in a 
glass flask and adds to it a solution com- 
posed of 20 per cent calcium chloride and 
2 per cent zinc sulfid. The mixture is 
heated to the boiling point over an alcohol 
lamp and the boiling allowed to continue 
for a few minutes to drive off any carbonic 



216 



GARDEN GUIDE 



acid gaa which may be liberated. The 
boiling is then continued but the mouth of 
the flask is covered with a piece of paper 
which has previously been soaked in a 
solution of lead acetate, then dried and 
again moistened with clear water just be- 
fore being used in the test. If the soil is 
acid, the chemical reaction between the 
fumes and the paper, described above, 
turns the paper from white to light brown 
or black, depending upon the amount of 
acid in the soil. By comparing the color 
of the paper at the end of a definite number 



of moments with a color scale or chart 
which has been prepared by the inventor of 
the test and which can be obtained from 
the University of Wisconsin at Madison, 
any observer can quickly determine the 
approximate degree of acidity in the soil 
and thereby the approximate need of lime 
exhibited by it. This test has been de- 
scribed in detail in a bulletin issued by the 
Experiment Station of the Wisconsin 
University, from which copies can be 
obtained free as long as they are available. 



Wintering CeL 

Celery properly stored in an outdoor 
trench will keep in better condition and 
longer than in any other place. The trench 
should be made in a well drained spot, 
preferably across the higher part of a 
sloping field. A regular spade should be 
used in making the trench, which should 
be a spade wide, and have vertical sides, 
and as deep as the celery is tall, when 
measured after it is dug, from top of leaves 
in their usual positions to the bottom of 
root clump. Place the plants, beginning 
at one end oi the trench (and working back- 
ward) one by one in an upright position, 
crowding both root clumps and stalks 
tightly together. This close packing is 
important, since Celery will not keep well 
when loosely packed. 

When the trench is filled it should be 
covered with boards each 12 in. to 14 in. 
wide and 3 ft. to 5 ft. long, laid on length- 
wise of the trench. Thin boards should be 
laid across the cracks where the ends of the 



y in a Trench 

boards meet. At first only two to three 
inches of soil should be placed on top of the 
boards, but when freezing weather is at 
hand, a foot or more of soil in all should be 
heaped above the boards, and for a foot 
beyond each side of these and, when the 
ground begins to freeze, above the soil 
should be heaped straw or hay or coarse 
strawy manure, or leaves, to the depth of 
about a foot; the thickness of soil and straw 
covering depending upon the latitude. The 
Celery can quite easily be trken out any 
pleasant day in Winter by opening one 
end of the trench. The short lengths 
of boards make it necessary to uncover 
only a small part of the trench at one 
time; in fact, one can reach under the end 
of the board, and take out Celery for part 
of its length the first time and, on the 
second visit, remove the board entirely and 
take out the rest of the plants under that 
board. Always recover closely the portion 
of the ditch next to the remaining plants. 



Labeling Plants — Memorandum Book 



There are two main reasons why labels 
are useful in the garden. First, it is well 
to know just what has been planted in each 
row of the vegetable garden, and when it 
was planted. The date of planting is 
always useful. 

The second Reason for labeling plants is 
one of great interest in the garden. It 
enables you to give choice plants extra 
attention . 

There is little fun in gardening without 
labels when one has a lot of strange plants 
in the yard. Find out their names, get 
acquainted and label them before you 
forget the name. 

Labels. An 18 in. wooden label is 
strongly recommended for use", it will last 
longer because it is stronger, cannot be 
lost because it is of fair size and can be 
used year in and year out. Write names on 



them, using a heavy blue pencil. Affix 
day of month, month and year. This will 
be foi^d of value for reference all through 
the season. In the following year partially 
efface with the edge of a sharp knife the 
blue pencil marks, and your label is ready 
for use all over again. Such labels should 
last 10 to 15 years, and as they stand well 
above the ground, they are most service- 
able. Zinc labels upon which the name is 
written with indelible ink are useful. 

Garden Memorandum Book . A small not« 
book in which can be recorded the name 
of plant, the date sown or planted, and the 
first and last pickings, will form in interest- 
ing record of the vegetable garden. The 
notebook is useful too, year after year, in 
comparing the qualities of certain varities 
of flowering plants. Let this book be the 
repository of garden receipts and sugges- 
tions from friends. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



217 



The Vegetable Garden in Winter 

As the harvesting season draws to a close and the inactive period 
of Winter approaches, some very important things can be done in 
the garden to insure maximum results the next year. The best possible 
program at this time is as follovrs: 1 . Harvest everything that can be 
used either fresh, pickled or preserved. This includes green Tomatoes, 
immature Squash, small, late-sown Carrots and Beets, etc. 2. Pull 
up, rake together and remove all dead vines, haulms, stubble, etc. 
All that is free from disease and not too woody should go on the com- 
post pile or first into the chicken yard or pig-pen if there is one. Any- 
thing that may be infested with disease spores or insect eggs should be 
burnt at once. 3. Spade up, plow, or even simply harrow or cultivate 
the whole garden, turning under any manure that you may hav» 
available. 4. Sow on the rough surface a cover crop and rake well to 
cover the seed. Such a mixture as Rye and Vetch, that will live over 
Winter and make added growth until plowed under in the Spring, is 
best. Red or Alsike Clover is good, and where there is time for con- 
siderable Fall growth Field Peas and Oats, or either one alone, is satis- 
factory. 

Whatever you use, the aim is to get the ground covered with a 
crop that will (a) keep the soil from washing during the Winter; (b) 
add humus and plant food when plowed under; and (c) smother out 
weeds or prevent them from becoming established. Consequently, if 
the above program cannot be carried out, it is better to leave most of 
the vegetable stubble or even a crop of weeds standing than to clear 
away every ^'^estige of plant life and leave the soil bare and empty over 
Winter. 

Every bxt of leaf, stem and root tissue turned under to rot, adds 
not only the plant food it took from the soil, but also a good deal that 
it secured from the air; in short it is real "green manure.'' Again, the 
extra stirring that it gets when a Winter cover crop is sown benefits 
the soil, and if some commercial fertilizer, a dressing of lime or wood 
ashes, or an application of manure can be worked in at the same time, 
so much the better. The manure can, however, be applied at your 
leisure during the Winter to be plowed under with the cover crop; and 
an especially good time to lime the soil is just after such a plowing and 
before the ground is harrowed or raked. 



^18 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The Home Food Winter Storage Cellar 

See diagram on opposite page 

Our diagram of a Winter food storage cellar shows ~a corner in 
the cellar, which should preferably be a northwest corner. The 
partitions shown must be finished off so that no heat can penetrate 
the storage cellar from the furnace; to that end, a brick partition 
is undoubtedly the best, but if this cannot be had, the next best would 
be a double partition of seven-eighth inch boards, with building paper 
and an air space between, and with a door built in the same way, 
having a bevelled edge. If strict economy rules at least use a single 
thickness of boards, as shown in plan, with heavy building paper on 
one side. This paper should be well held in position by means of large- 
headed tacks, liberally used. 

• Cellar walls of brick, stone or cement, protected on the out- 
side by a coat of tar or other material to make it impervious to damp- 
ness, are perfectly all right for Winter storage, but if your wall is of 
hollow tile, dampness will certainly have to be guarded against, 
especially during the untoward warm days which come to us in Winter. 

According to the compass exposure of this storage cellar (window 
facing south, for instance) it will be advisable to reverse the arrange- 
ment shown in diagram. 

Fashion your bins to suit your requirements. They are of best 
advantage for preserving vegetables when made of slats so as to allow 
for circulation of air. It would then be better to use many more slat 
shelves for Apples and Potatoes than are indicated on plan. 

Whitewash your entire cellar once a year. 

A window in this Winter storage cellar is not a vital necessity. 
If there is a window it should be heavily curtained, if facing the south 
or west. 

Pumpkins and Squash should be laid on boards if the cellar does 
not have a cement floor. Squash, however, can stand fifty degrees. 

Potatoes — If these show signs of rotting in the bin, through 
dampness, sprinkle with slaked lime. 

The ideal temperature for such a cellar would be from 35 to 40 
degrees; understood, of course, a freezing temperature would be 
fatal to some of your stored supplies. 

In such a repository can also be placed away for Winter, all 
your bulbs and tuberous-rooted stock, such as Gladioli, Dahhas and 
Cannas; the two last mentioned should be slightly covered with a 
layer of sand. 



The Home Food Winter Storage Cellar 



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219 



220 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Herbs 

From time immemorial herbs have been used for medicinal 
and flavoring purposes, some being grown for their seed, some for 
foliage, others for flowers and roots. It is always a genuine pleasure 
to be able to supply your own wants, pure and unadulterated. The 
varieties hsted herewith, the uses of which are fully explained, will 
enable a selection to be made of the most desirable kinds essential for 
home use. 

The culture of herbs requires no particular skill; they all Hke a 
fairly rich soil, and may be grown from seeds or purchased as plants 
or dormant roots. A bed 20 x 4 ft. should accommodate all the species 
required for the average household, but more room may be given, if 
desired, and beds 3 x 2 ft. devoted to each separate kind. 

The annual varieties should be grown by themselves. The peren- 
nial varieties should be planted in permanent beds, as they come up 
each year after being cut down in the Fall. 

All herbs grown for their foliage should be cut when the growth 
is mature, or when the flowers show, tied in small bundles, and hung 
in a dry place. When thoroughly dry, they can be put in paper bags, 
and hung in the attic until required for use. Those grown for seed 
should be allowed to blossom and produce seed which, when ripe, 
should be carefully gathered and dried before storing away. Those 
whose roots are to be used, should be dug in the Fall and thoroughly 
washed and dried. 

Each variety should be carefully labeled to aid identification. 

Winter Protection. — Herbs require some protection during 
Northern Winters and should be covered with straw, leaves, or manure. 
The perennial varieties are to be cut down within a few inches of the 
ground, except Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme, Sage and Wormwood. 
These should be left about six inches above ground. Lavender and 
Rosemary being shrubs, require particular protection, until the wood 
becomes hard, say until their second or third year. 

Herbs from Seed. — All the appended list are easily raised from 
seed, except Tarragon, which does not seed and consequently roots 
must be planted. Sow your seed in a small prepared bed, then plant 
the seedlings into permanent quarters as tliey become large enough 
to handle. If planted on a dull day and watered, success will be 
assured, or the seed may be sown where it is to remain, and gener- 
ously thinned out to allow room for development. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 2^il 



List of Herbs 

(A indicates Annuals. P indicates Perennials) 

Angelica {Angelica Archangelica) . A. Leaves and stalks are some- 
times eaten raw, or boiled with meat and fish. The seeds are used 
for flavoring wines and cakes. 

Anise (Pimpinella Anisum), A. For garnishing and flavoring; also in 
making cordials. 

Balm (Melissa officinalis). A. For making Balm tea for fevers, also 
Balm wine. 

Basil, Sweet {Ocimiim minimum). A. Largely employed by French 
cooks for flavoring purposes. 

BoNESET (Eupatorium perfoliaium) . P. Popular remedy for fever and 
ague. 

Burnet (Sanguisorha canadensis), P. Leaves used in salads and soups. 
Caraway (Carum Carui), A. Grown for its seeds, which are used for 

bread, pastry and flavoring. 
Catnip ( Nepeia Caiaria). P. For medicinal purposes. Much relished by 

cats who will roll in it with great delight. 
Chamomile {Matricaria Chamomilla). P. Used as a blood medicine. 
Chives {Allium Schoenoprasum) . A. Used for flavoring sausages and 

salads. 

Coriander {Coriandrum sativum). A. Seed used for flavoring. 

Dill {Anethum graveolens). A. Seeds with aromatic odor and hot 

pungent taste. Used for flavoring vinegar when making dill pickles. 
Fennel {Fceniculum officinale). P. Seeds aromatic for flavoring. Boiled 

leaves are used in sauces. 
Feverfew (Pyrethrum Parthenium). A. Used medicinally; a good 

blood tonic. 

HoREHOUND {Marruhium vulgare). P. Leaves used as remedy for colds, 
for dyspepsia, and in expelling worms. 

Hyssop {Hyssopus officinalis). P. Leaves and young shoots used as a 
pot herb; leafy tops and flower spikes used for medicinal purposes. 

Lavender {Lavandula vera). P. Leaves and flowers emit a delightful 
perfume; much used in the wardrobe to give the linen a delicate 
perfume. 

Marigold, Pot {Calendula officinalis). A. Medicinal and flavoring. 

Marjoram, Sweet {Origanum Majorana). P. A tonic and stomachic. 

Marjoram, Pot {Origanum Onites). A. One of the most useful of all the 
herbs, the leaves being employed as greens and also dried for flavoring. 

Mint, Spear {Mentha viridis). P. Used for flavoring. 

Mint, Pepper {Mentha piperita). P. Good for stomach and intestinal 
troubles; also used as a stimulant. 

Mustard, White {Sinapis alba). A. Young seedlings used as a salad. 

Parsley {Carum petroselinum) . A. Flavoring and decorations for 
salads, and fancy garnishing. 

Pennyroyal {Hedeoma pulegioides). A. Used medicinally as a stimu- 
lant and carminative. Good for keeping mosquitoes away. 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Rosemary {Rosemarinus officinalis). P. Leaves make Rosemary tea 

for relieving headache. 
Sage (Salvia officinalis). P. Leaves used for seasoning meats and 

poultry; also used as a tonic. 
Savory, Summer {Satureia hortensis). A. Leaves and flowers used for 

flavoring. 

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). P. Used in bitters, and as a remedy against 
worms. 

Tarragon (Artemisia Dracunculus). P. 'Leaves impart a delicious 

flavor to salads, soups, pickles, etc. 
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris). P. Grown in every garden for seasoning. 
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis). A. Leaves very efficacious in the cure 

of wounds. Heal-all is an old name for it. 
Wormwood (Artemisia vulgaris). P, Used medicinally as a bitters. 



Remedies and Preventives Against Mosquitoes 

There are several forms or species of mosquito; certain of them breed 
only in tree holes, others in crabholes or sea beaches, certain others breed in 
marshes, while others seem to breed only in the pools formed by melting snow. 
One of the best means of abolishing mosquitoes is to screen all likely breeding 
places, and to drain marsh ground or fill in places where water collects. Dis- 
used wells in gardens are frequent sources of a mosquito supply; fountains 
and ornamental ponds also, and here the introduction of fish is usually all 
sufficient, as these eat the eggs and larvae; even urns in cemeteries are breeding 
places for mosquitoes. As in most other things, cleanliness will be found to pay. 
Wherever there is a stagnant pool that cannot be drained or filled in, and is 
known to be a home of mosquitoes, spraying the surface with kerosene is advised. 
The heavier grades of oil will not spread readily, but will cUng together in spots, 
and the coating will be unnecessarily thick. The rapidity of spread of the 
fi]m is important. As to quantity: under still conditions an ounce of kerosene 
to 15 sq. ft. of surface water is about the right proportion, and in the absence of 
wind such a film may remain persistent for 10 days or slightly longer. The 
oil can be sprayed through an ordinary spray nozzle. Various larvicides are 
also used, especially in the South and in tropical countries. Smudges and 
fumigants are also employed to drive away mosquitoes. 

The burning of pyrethrum powder in rooms is a good practice, or dusting 
the powder into crevices frequented by the insects is performed. Sulphur, two 
pounds for each 1000 cubic feet of space is an efficient mosquito destroyer, where 
fumigation in the case of possible disease-bearing mosquitoes is desired. There 
are many remedies for mosquito bites, one of the most satisfactory being moist 
soap gently rubbed over the puncture. Others recommended are household 
ammonia, alcohol or glycerine. 

For protection on the piazza at night hum Chinese punk 



For a complete work on the subject of Herbs 
we would recommend 

CULINARY HERBS, by M. G. Kains. The only book devoted to the 
flavoring plants of home and business gardens. Besides the comprehensive 
general discussions of cultivation, harvesting, curing and uses, the author 
devotes special attention to each of the thirty-five species popular in Europe 
and America. Price, $1.10 Postpaid. Secure your copy where you bought 
your Garden Guide. 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention if 
you do not use the Index freely 



CHAPTER XV 

Fruit for the Small Garden 

Apples — Apricots — Cherries — Grapes — Pears — Plums — Peaches 
Quinces — Strawberries — Currants — Gooseberries — Raspberries 
Blackberries — Dewberries — Loganberries — Cordon and Espalier 
Training Systems — Ideal Fruit Garden 

SPREAD the truth far and wide, the country over, by every means 
available. Sufficient emphasis can never be laid on the health- 
giving advantages to be derived from the free use of fresh fruit. 
It is beneficial to the adult, but doubly so for the children. It is an 
insurance against disease. Nothing will assist the processes of nature 
in such a rational and effective way as the habitual use of fruit. "An 
Apple a day keeps the doctor away," is an old saying but, nevertheless, 
a most true one, as many have proved to their own satisfaction, and 
when one can practice the habit from one's own garden, the pleasure 
is more than doubled. 

Fruit gathered fresh from the plants is quite a different article 
to that which has been picked and packed, traveled and finally exposed 
to the dust and atmosphere of a public market or store. Then, too, 
another phase of the satisfaction of growing fruit for your own use 
and to give to your friends is in the pleasure derived from watching 
its development from the bursting buds on through the period of 
flowering to the ripe, luscious, perfect fruit. 

It is surprising how much more fruit can be eaten in the garden 
*'out of hand," than when served in the home, and this without the 
shghtest injurious effects. It is the unripe and stale fruit which should 
be avoided; if you care for your fruit garden it will reward you with 
fresh, ripe fruit in abundance. 

In considering a collection of fruit trees for a suburban garden, 
particular attention will be given those varieties which produce a 
maximum amount of fruit, in a minimum of space and which are 
designed to supply the family with fruit for the table and culinary 
purposes the greater part of the year. Available space must, of course, 
be considered in planting a fruit garden, and location must determine 
to a large degree the manner of planting and arrangement of the 
different fruits so as to allow each kind the greatest amount of light 
and air possible. Apples and Pears, Peaches, Plums and Cherries, 
therefore, should be planted to avoid casting too great a shade on 
the smaller fruits such as Strawberries and Currants. Raspberries, 
Blackberries and Grapes should be confined to trellises and not allowed 
to extend beyond certain hmits, but to accomplish this, regular atten- 

223 



224 



GARDEN GUIDE 



tion to pruning and thinning is absolutely necessary. A small fruit 
garden judiciously planned and planted will be a source of pleasure 
and profit, and well repay all the attention that can be bestowed 
upon it. 

Depths for Planting 

A good rule to follow in planting a fruit tree is to set it deep 
enough so that it will stand up firmly without artificial support. In 
sandy soil deeper planting may safely be practiced, while on heavy 
or wet soils shallow planting is recommended. As a general rule six 
inches is quite deep enough for all small fruits, and eight inches for 
Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach and Cherry trees. 

Dwarf trees can safely be planted to the depth they have been 
previously grown in the nursery, but not deep enough to afford any 
possibility of the scion or graft taking root in the soil, otherwise your 
dwarf tree will cease to be such, as the rooting scion will cause a very 
strong growth. Undue vigor in fruit trees should be checked by root 
pruning. 

Having chosen a location, proceed at once thoroughly to cultivate 
the ground, using a subsoil plough, or digging as deeply as possible; 
then cover the whole with a liberal dressing of well rotted farmyard 
manure, and a Uberal sprinkhng of bonemeal, and dig over again. 
In this plant your fruit trees. Should your soil be a rich loam it will 
be well adapted for the small fruits as well as Cherries and Apples, 
but heavy or clayey soils will produce fine Pears, while sandy soil 
will grow luscious Peaches. A careful study of conditions previous 
to planting will save a large amount of inconvenience, labor, expense 
and regret later on. Apple and Pear trees take about six years to 
come into bearing, but after that the crop increases annually. Prun- 
ing will accelerate fruit production to a large extent and providing a 
good selection of varieties has been made, it is possible to have Apples 
nearly every month in the year, the proper faciUties being available 
for Winter storage. Good cultivation is beneficial to the growth of 
fruit in general and Hberal treatment will increase results. 

Following is a table showing how many trees or plants may be 
planted on an acre at various distances apart; 



Feet 


Number of 


Feet 


Number of 


Feet 


Number of 


apart 


trees 


apart 


trees 


apart 


trees 


40 


26 


16 


170 


6 


1,210 


35 


34 


15 


194 


5 . 


1,744 


30 


49 


14 


224 


4 


2,722 


25 


70 


12 


304 


3 


4,840 


20 


109 


10 


435 


2 


10,890 


18 


.135 


8 


680 


1 


43,560 



APPLES 



225 



It has been thought unnecessary to include, in a book of this 
nature, a large number of varieties, but rather to give the names of 
kinds that have been proved of real merit, and while those mentioned 
are not all of the good ones, they have been selected for their superiority 
in vigor and production. 

APPLES 

These do best in a rich, loamy, well drained soil, in a position 
preferably facing the east or southeast. This situation protects the 
trees from north and west winds and retards blooming in Spring, 
thereby often preventing the destruction of the blossom by late Spring 
frosts, and the consequent failure of the crop. In planting, select a 
three-year-old tree, which can be procured at any reliable nursery, and 
insist on this being true to name, because a mistake at this point means 
years of disappointment. Do not make the common mistake of plant- 
ing your tree in a small hole, or planting too deeply, but be liberal in all 
your treatment and your tree will respond accordingly. Prune all 
broken and damaged roots, and after spreading the remaining roots 
evenly in the hole, cover with fine earth and give the tree a slight shake. 
Allow the earth to sift down among the fine roots, then put on more 
soil and tread in firmly, finish filling the hole, and put on a generous 
mulching to keep the soil about the tree moist, for upon this mulching 
often depends the life of the tree. After the tree is firmly planted, 
prune in the head to five or six branches and reduce these to half 
their original length. Attach a label to the tree and it is ready to 
take a permanent place in the garden. 

During its first season of growth all superfluous shoots should 
be cut out, keeping in mind the future form of the mature tree. The 
second season the previous year's growth should be cut back about 
half, and after this the tree will usually need only thinning out the 
center and such shoots as cross each other, to secure abundance of 
light and sunshine. The shoots which come out of the stem should 
be rubbed off as they appear. This treatment applies to standards, 
which should be planted at least twenty-five feet apart, but in a small 
garden trees known as pyramids, cordons, and espaliers may be grown 
with success. These can be purchased in that forrti, and are used for 
covering arches or for growing against buildings, walls or fences. 
They have the advantage of producing fruit quicker than standards 
and in taking less space in which to grow, a consideration where room 
is limited. Pyramids could be planted in a row ten feet apart, cordons 
three feet apart against a wall or to form an arch over a walk, and 



226 



GARDEN GUIDE 



espaliers along each side of a walk or against a wall or building, thus 
making the most of restricted space. Their pruning is more severe 
and may be done in July and in Spring, the production of fruit bear- 
ing spurs being the end in view. 




Typical half standard Apple tree suitable for the amateur's 
< garden 



The prevention of San Jose scale is necessary to success, and a 
spraying with any good insecticide sold for that purpose must be 
given while the trees are dormant in Spring; lime and sulphur mix- 
ture treatment is very good. Then the famihar codling moth has to 
be dealt with. Arsenate of lead, three pounds to fifty gallons of 



APPLES 



water, sprayed through A fine nozzle, has proved the very best treat- 
ment for this pest, but many egg clusters can be gathered from the 
trees if carefully scrutinized while pruning. The trees should be 
sprayed as soon as possible after the blossoms fall, the object being to 
get some of the insecticide into the calyx before it closes up tight, or 
the fruit turns downward. Avoid spraying the poison on the fruit. 

Another spraying is necessary for fungous growth on the fruit. 
This should be done with arsenate of lead as soon as possible after the 
woolly down begins to come off the young fruit. No particular time 
can be stated, as in different localities the season varies, but by taking 
notice of the condition of the fruit, no mistake can be made. If green 
or black aphis appear on the growth of the young trees, spraying with 
what is known as "Black Leaf 40" is the best remedy. It is a prepara- 
tion of nicotine in a concentrated form, and should be used according 
to directions supplied with each can. 

Apples are seldom propagated except in nurseries, where large 
quantities are raised from seed and the many varieties in demand 
are then grafted on these seedlings while they are quite small. Graft- 
ing is sometimes practised in gardens for introducing a new variety 
on an old or objectionable kind. 

In giving a list of varieties, due attention has been paid to sorts 
designed to keep the family supplied for a greater part of the year. 
In almost every locality, there are varieties which do particularly well, 
and which are general favorites; because of this fact, it is always 
well before planting, to inquire from some of the older settlers, whom 
you know raise good fruit, what special variety succeeds best with 
them. The following list, however, covers a wide range, and the va- 
rieties named are adaptable for general planting. Make a selection for 
early, medium and late. 

Early Harvest. Fruit pale yellow, tender and good. Bears early. Late 
July and August. 

Red Astrachan. Fruit largely covered with light and dark red. A 
good early, and bears young. August and September. 

Sweet Bough. Fruit greenish yellow. The best early culinary variety. 
August and September. 

Yellow Transparent. Fruit clear yellow; tender, juicy, with a pleasant 
flavor. July and August. 

Duchess of Oldenburgh. Fruit red striped, crisp, tender, juicy, aro- 
matic. A good culinary variety. Late August and September. 

Graven STEIN. Fruit yellow striped, good size, attractive appearance, 
excellent quality. September to November. 

ToLMAN Sweet. Fruit pale yellow, decidedly sweet. A good dessert 
Apple. November to January. 

{Continued on page 230) 



Growing and Training Cordon and Espalier 

Fruit Trees 

[Growing fruit trees in these shapes is an endless source of delight to the 
gardener and we recommend giving the art a trial if only commenced with 
a few trees, their first cost being but a trifle and the reward great.) 

Cordons and Espaliers are not difficult to train and, by following 
the diagrams shown on opposite page, nicely grown specimens can 
soon be obtained. Sometimes a young tree can be bent down to form 
a single cordon, thereby saving a season's growth, but a double cordon 
would have to be formed the first year as shown in the diagram. 

A single galvanized wire, anchored firmly at each end, and drawn 
tight, standing one foot above the ground, is necessary to support 
the cordon, the height being a matter of choice, as the tree can be 
started at any height desired. Should the young tree make very 
strong growths these should be shortened back in Spring and care- 
fully watched and tied to ensure a straight branch when new growth 
conmiences. 

All side growth should be pinched back in June or July, leaving 
three or four leaves; these will form the fruiting spurs later. The 
spurs should not be allowed to crowd or weak growth will result. 
The trees can be allowed to reach each other and are easily kept within 
a restricted space. They come into bearing early and produce fine fruit. 

An espalier is an amplified cordon, the treatment being identical 
in the first stage. Branches at equal distances up the stem look 
best, and three good growths must be encouraged at the first pruning", 
two for lateral branches, and one for a continuation of the main stem; 
these should be tied and kept straight, as the future appearance of 
the tree depends upon it. 

The third year spurs will begin to form on the lowest branches, 
these should be treated the same as those on the cordons. Fine fruit 
will reward the labor bestowed upon them. 

Upright or oblique cordons consist of a single stem, allowed to 
grow slowly by cutting back a portion of the matured growth each 
year in order to encourage the formation of fruiting spurs at close 
intervals all up the stem. The side shoots should be treated same 
as for single or double horizontal cordons, but a straight leading shoot 
must always be assured for the continual development of the tree. 

These may be planted two feet apart, against a fence, building, 
or wall, or to cover an arch in the fruit garden. 

Espaliers may be trained on ordinary garden stakes, 4 to 5 ft. high, 
placed one foot apart; or, iron rods may be used, or an ordinary piece 
of wire fence, in fact any material that will keep the young growths in 
the proper position during training. 

229 



* ,230 



GARDEN GUIDE 



{Continued from page 227) 

Maiden's Blush. Fruit lemon yellow .with crimson cheek; very attrac- 
tive. September to November. 

Sutton Beauty. Fruit attractive, red, fine grained, crisp. A good 
dessert Apple. November to March. 

Rhode Island Greening. Fruit green. The very best culinary Apple. 
October to March. 

Baldwin. Fruit red. The well-known Winter Apple. October to May. 

Northern Spy. Fruit splashed with red; very crisp; of fine flavor. De- 
cember to June. 

Wagener. Fruit red, large, subacid. An Apple of superior excellence. 
October to March. 

Siberian Grab. The Grab Apple furnishes a most delightful jelly; none 
better. It is also ornamental and might be planted where non-fruit- 
ing trees are planted now. Other Grab Apples are Golden Beauty, 
Hyslop, Martha and Transcendent. September and October. 

Jonathan. Fruit brilliant red: very highly flavored, juicy, fine grained. 
October to March. 

McIntosh. Fruit bright deep red; flesh white; juicy, with slight acid 
flavor. September to January. 

Stark. Fruit large, round, greenish yellow, with red stripes; flesh yeUow, 
mildly acid. November to January. 

Williams. Fruit rich dark red; large, with tender crisp white flesh. 
July to August. 

APRICOTS 

The delicious Apricot should be grown in every garden. Bush 
plants are preferable, as being a very slow growing tree, it requires little 
pruning, except for the purpose of keeping it in shape. Flowering 
early it is subject to injury by late frosts, but the fruit sets much better 
in a cool temperature. 

Culture and treatment the same as the Peach. The varieties are 
few, but the very best are: 

Moore Park Rich orange color, the best, ripening in August. 
Harris. Deep golden yellow. July. 

BLACKBERRIES 

The culture of Blackberries is similar to the directions given for 
Raspberries. They grow stronger, however, and require more room, 
and owing to their sharp thorns they are not so desirable in the small 
garden. Some object to the many seeds they contain, particularly 
if grown on poor soil, but a few varieties are almost seedless: 
Taylor. Without core and one of the best. 
Erie. Of very good quality. 
Iceberg. Produces white berries of good flavor. 



CHERRIES 



281 



CHERRIES 



Cherries are enjoyed by all; even the birds love them, but as they 
grow in such abundance there are usually enough for all. Early 
Cherries are a great temptation to birds, and a shght protection with 
mosquito netting may be a necessity. The sour Cherries come later 
and need no protection. Cherries are not particular as to soil; they do 
well in a good sandy loam. 

Black aphis always attack Cherry trees and the ends of the new 
growths are frequently covered with them, but a good hard spraying 
with Black Leaf 40 will usually clean them off. This should be ap- 
plied as soon as possible after the fruit is set, when the young growth 
commences. Cherries mature quickly and their season is short. 

This list of varieties include the favorites: 
Governor Wood. Light yellow and red. June. 

Black Tartarian. 
Large purple. June. 
May Duke. Large 
red, juicy. Early 
June. 

BiGARREAu. One 
of the best. July. 

CURRANTS 

Currants are 
used * principally 
for culinary pur- 
poses, and unless 
wanted for pre- 
serves, a few 
plants will gener- 
ally be sufficient 
for ordinary use. 
The red and white 
varieties are the 
ones usually 
grown, but some 
like the black, and 
a few of these 
should be includ- 
ed. The reds are 

Standard (or tree) Red Currant j^h^ moSt popular. 

This form of bush has special merits, being ornamental as i . +V.^,r oil tyiqIt/i 
well as utilitarian ^^^^ nidKC 




23£ 



GARDEN GUIDE 



delicious jelly; the black particularly so. Served on the table freshly 
picked, the white and red, mixed, make an appetizing dessert. 

Any soil of a medium rich nature will grow good Currants and 
they are not particular as to situtation. They prefer a light, open 
space preferably to one that is shaded by trees. They may be planted 
in Spring or Fall, and must be attended to in the matter of pruning to 
insure a good crop of fruit annually. All young shoots should be 
pruned back about half, and only a few left to form the bush, care being 
taken annually to remove all young growth which springs from the 
base of the bushes, otherwise they will get too thick and small fruit 
will result. Standards are in every way preferable as they can be more 
easily pruned and the fruit is kept up out of the dirt, a great advantage 
on sandy soils. 

If planted four feet apart they will soon 
grow up and fill the space between each 
plant. As Currants admit of hard pruning, 
they may be used for bordering garden walks, 
or planted against fences to utilize space, 
where this is a consideration. 

The Currant worm is one of the worst 
pests we have to deal with. Powdered 
hellebore dusted on the plants is a good 
remedy, but they should be watched for 
carefully as soon as the fohage appears, and 
kept destroyed until the foliage becomes hard. 
Ordinary road dust, air slaked Ume, or any 
fine dust, has been used successfully in 

destroying the Currant worm, but it should be applied quite early 
in the morning, or late in the evening when the foliage is damp with 
dew; it is then very evenly distributed and most effective. There is 
some danger in using a liquid insecticide because the fruit is small and 
it is almost impossible to wash off all traces of poison. 

Currants are usually propagated from cuttings made of the 
ripened shoots, and root quite freely if put in during the Fall. The best 
varieties are: 

Red, — Fay's Prolific, sweet, large and very productive. Cherry, large 
and very prolific. Pomona, a new variety; keeps long after getting 
ripe. 

Black. — Champion. Berries large, of good quality Boskoop Grant. 
White. — Bar-le-duc, White Grape. 




Pruning Currant shoots 

1. Twig should be cut 
back to bud as shown in 
Fig. 3. No. 2 shows torn 
snag 



DEWBERRY 



933 



DEWBERRY 

These follow Strawberries in ripening and are a welcome addi- 
tion to the hst of early fruit; dehcious, and superior to Blackberries. 
The vines should be tied to a wire for support and to faciUtate gather- 
ing the fruit. The young growths spread on the ground and, after 
fruiting, the old canes should be cut out and the young growths tied 
in their place and thinned to prevent overcrowding. The same treat- 
ment required as for Raspberries. 

LucRETiA. The best variety; fruit large and handsome. ^ 

GOOSEBERRIES 

This luscious fruit is not much grown, but serves a purpose as a 
culinary fruit. It makes a good subject for planting between plots, as 
a fence, or along walks, as it can be pruned hard and kept within 
limits, trained on a wire fence for support. Planting may be done in 
the Fall and a crop of fruit can be had the first year. Very httle prun- 
ing is required, as the plants usually grow short jointed wood, and 
keeping the plants thinned out so that the fruit may have exposure to 
the sun and air is all the pruning necessary. Like Currants, the Goose- 
berry is subject to the attack of worms (caterpillars), which soon 
denude the plants of fohage and make then unsightly, as well as pre- 
venting the proper maturity of the fruit. Dusting with powdered helle- 
bore is one of the best remedies and should be applied as a preventive 
as soon as the foliage expands. Mildew often attacks the Gooseberry 
and causes trouble, but spraying with a solution of sulphuric acid, one 
part to one thousand parts of water, will control this disease. It may 
be borne in mind that eight teaspoonfuls make one fluid ounce, 16 ozs. 
make a pint, and there are eight pints in a gallon. A teaspoonful of 
sulphuric acid to a gallon of water is therefore a safe amount. 

Propagation of the Gooseberry is done by cuttings of the ripened 
shoots. The following varieties are each good: 
Downing. Large, pale green, soft and juicy; quite prolific. 
Industry. Large, dark red; good cropper. 
Red Jacket. Large, red, good flavor. 
White Lion. One of the finest. 

GRAPES 

Grapevines may be trained on arbors, pergolas, fences, buildings 
or trees, but to secure the most and the best fruit trellises are desirable. 



234 GARDEN GUIDE 

The simplest trellis is the Munson or canopy. Erect it as follows: 

Set end posts, preferably of locust or red cedar, five inches in diame- 
ter at their bases so as to be below the "frost line." Place others, three 
or four inches in diameter, 24 to 30 ft. apart in the rows. Saw the 
tops off square at 4 to 5 ft. above ground. Bore a small hole 6 or 8 in. 
below the top of each post for the lowest wire (size No. 11) to pass 
through. Spike or wire on^crosspieces of 2 by 4 scantling 24 in. long 
on top of the posts. An inch from their outer ends saw a slot half an 
inch deep for the other two wires to rest in. Fasten the ends of the 
wires firmly to one end post but l©osely to the other so they may be 
loosened in Winter and tightened in Summer. The trellis will not be 
needed until the vines are a year or two old. 

When the vine is planted cut off all side shoots and reduce the 
main cane to two or three joints, each with a plump bud. When young 

shoots develop tie 
them to stakes 5 or 6 
ft. tall. Tie again 
during Summer when 
necessary to keep the 
vines off the ground. 
In mid-Winter cut off 
all side shoots. If the 
main cane is weak cut 
it back to 15 to 20 in. 
and manage as the 
first season. If it is 
sturdy, tie to the 

Munson System of Grape Training. lowest wire of the 

Vine Unpruned. Courtesy Kentucky Exp. Station trellis and CUt ofT all 

above this wire. To 

steady the cane, coil a stout cord around it two or three times in a 
spiral and fasten to the base of the vine and to the wire. When growth 
starts in Spring, destroy all shoots except those from the uppermost 
two buds. Train these in opposite directions along the lowest wire. 
Better not allow any fruit to develop this year so the two **arms'* 
will become very strong. Allow no shoots to develop below these arms 
on the main trunk. 

In the second mid-Winter cut off all side shoots and shorten the 
arms or main canes to 4 to 8 joints — few for weak canes, more for 
strong ones. Each bud will produce a shoot and each shoot should bear 
one to five clusters of grapes. As the shoots grow, raise their ends 
and let them hang over the upper wires. They do not need to be tied. 




GRAPES 



235 




Munson System of Grape Ttaining. 
Vine Pruned, Courtesy Kentucky Exp. Station 



Before the blossoms open decide upon two sturdy shoots to form next 
year's arms. They should start near the trunk. Pinch off all clusters 
of fruit on them to make them strong. At the same time shorten 
each of the other shoots to two or three joints beyond the outermost 
clusters. In a couple of we eks g o over the vines again and cut back 
to one or two joints those 
shoots missed the first 
time, also growths that 
have started in the mean- 
time. 

In the third mid- 
Winter cut each of the 
main arms an inch or so 
above th^ tw o sturdy new 
arms developed previous 
Summer and remove them 
and all their shoots from the trelhs. Take care not to injure the two 
new arms in doing this work. Shorten these arms to four to eight or 
ten joints. Gently braid each with the lowest wire to right and left, 
respectively, and tie firmly in two or three places to the wire. During 
the growing season proceed as in the previous Summer, except that 
from the third year forward you may allow three or four arms to de- 
velop instead of two on strong vines. 

Grapes delight in a well drained rich soil. Old bones are excellent 
to place beneath the vines before planted. Clean cultivation is de- 
sirable. Set strong growing Northern varieties 10 ft. apart, small ones 
6 or 8. Southern kinds often need 20 ft. 

Good Northern black varieties are: Eumelan, Worden, Barry, 
Wilder, Moore's Early and Concord. Red ones: Agawam, Brighton, 
Brilliant, Delaware, Jefferson, Salem, Vergennes and Catawba. White: 
Dutchess, Empire, Goethe, Winchell (or Green Mountain)*and Prentiss. 
Popular Southern varieties are Scuppernong, James and Herbemont. 



PEACHES 

To those in the warmer parts of the country where the Winters 
are not too severe, a few Peach trees will add much to the revenue of 
the garden, and who does not hke Peaches ? They can be served in so 
many appetizing ways. The Peach is not a long-Uved tree, and will 
not produce profitably for more than five or six years. After the fruit 
begins to get small, new trees had much better be planted. 



236 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Peaches thrive in a hght, well drained soil and preference should 
be given to a northern aspect, as this tends to retard the date of flow- 
ering and prevent a total loss of the crop which would result if sub- 
jected to a* freezing temperature while the trees are in bloom. At best 
Peaches are a precarious crop unless well protected from cutting winds. 
During Winter, if the temperature falls to ten degrees below zero, the 
blossom buds will generally be killed although In a dormant state, and 
no fruit can be expected under such conditions. Peach trees come into 
bearing early, and for this reason young plants should be selected for 
planting and careful attention given to pruning to get the tree into 
shape. 

Early Fall is the best time to plant, as the trees have a chance 
to get rooted a little before the ground becomes severely frozen. The 
roots being very fine, the trees should be planted as near the surface 
as consistent with firm and secure planting, and a stake put at each 
tree, if necessary, to prevent its moving. Peaches hke the ground 
around them cultivated, and much better fruit will result. 

They require little pruning except to cut back strong growths, and 
to thin out if the branches become too crowded. Dwarf standards 
are preferable, but in small gardens trees can be trained against a 
building or on a fence. Under this method of culture they produce 
fme fruit, and ripening is assured in unfavorable seasons. 

A spraying with arsenate of lead will check any tendency of 
fungous growth if done while the leaves are quite small; if done after 
the fruit gains size the woolly down which covers it holds the spraying 
solution and may cause some disfigurement. Aphids usually attack 
the young leaves and if planted against a wall frequent severe syring- 
ing with force enough to dislodge the insects will keep them in check. 
A solution of nicotine may be used effectively against this black aphis, 
but is almost sure to leave a stain on the fruit and should not be 
applied in any case after the fruit is half grown. 

Early varieties are the best to plant as the season is none too 
long for the maturing of the fruit. 

New varieties are raised from seed and their perpetuation is 
secured by budding. This is done when the stock is quite small and 
usually close down to the ground. 

The best kinds are those which are known to do well in partic- 
ular locaHties, but those named are known to be generally good, 
and can be safely reconimended, and are all freestone varieties: 
Alexander. Medium size, white flesh, rich flavor. July. 
Belle of Georgia. Large, showy, red cheek; flesh white, firm and 

sweet. August. 

Early Crawford. Large, yellow, of good quality. Early September. 



PEACHES 



Hale's Early. Melting and rich flavor. August. 

Elberta. Large, yellow with red cheek; of fine quality. September. 

Champion. Very large, white flesh; very productive. August. 

pears 

Successful Pear culture is only practicable where the condition 
of the soil permits a tree growth of wood. The trees may be planted 
closer together than in the case of Apples, because the tendency of 
the Pear tree is to grow tall rather than to spread out. Where an 
Apple orchard is planted. Pear trees may be planted between the rows 
until the Apple trees require the room, when they should be cut out 
rather than encroach upon the room allowed for the Apple trees. 
Pears come into bearing much quicker than Apples, and the trees never 
assume large proportions. It is well to bear this in mind when plant- 
ing, but a small Pear tree will produce liberally, and a careful selection 
of varieties will give a long season of fruit. Pears delight in a heavy 
soil, and as they bloom early in the season a sheltered position should 
be selected where some protection may be had from a windbreak of 
tall evergreens or group of buildings, or from the natural formation 
of the place chosen, such as the shelter afforded by a hill. The tree 
should be planted on the eastern slope when many are to be grown, but 
in the small garden pyramids or espaliers should be used. These give 
the best results, yielding a large amount of fruit in a restricted space. 
Pears respond to good cultivation and will stand closer pruning than 
Apples. The tall growing varieties should have the heads cut hard to 
prevent the trees reaching too great a height, which makes the gather- 
ing of the fruit difficult. It is good policy, therefore, to keep the trees 
low and bushy. Pears make spurs freely, and in pruning, this fact 
should be held in mind. Encourage a free, open, branching habit, 
and prune to clothe the branches with fruit-bearing spurs, cutting out 
all superfluous growth at the Spring pruning. 

Probably the worst enemy of the Pear is rust and fungus, an 
attack of which causes the fruit to grow deformed and unsightly. A 
frequent spraying with arsenate of lead, three pounds to fifty gallons 
of water, will keep the foliage and fruit in good condition. This 
should be applied immediately after the blossoms fall, and again about 
three weeks later, and should any sign of fungous growth appear later, 
another spraying should be given to insure good looking fruit and a 
clean, healthy growth to the trees. 

Pears are usually grafted, and trees can be purchased much more 
cheaply than they can be grown to a fruiting age. 



S38 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The following tried and popular varieties will prove a valuable 
addition to the garden: 

Clapp's Favorite. Large, pale yellow; flesh fine, juicy and buttery. 
August. 

Bartlett. a very popular variety; large, shapely, melting; luscious 

flavor. September. 
Seckel. Fruit small but very sweet and melting. One of the best. 

KiEFFER. Large; golden yellow when ripe; juicy, with Quince flavor. 
October and November. 

Sheldon. Large, russet and red; aromatic flavor; rich and delicious. 
October and November. 

Beurre d'ANJOU. Large and handsome; flesh melting, extra fine. No- 
vember. 

Pears should be gathered as soon as the seeds are black, and 
stored in a dry, airy room until fit for use. 

PLUMS 

No garden is complete without a few Plums, so useful for table 
and culinary purposes. The Japanese Plums are wonderful bearers, and 
produce annually large quantities of fruit. Their abundance makes 
it necessary to thin out the fruit to prevent rotting in clusters on the 
branches. Plums are not particular as to soil, as their roots spread so 
much nearer the surface than Apples or Pears, and any fairly good 
loamy soil that is well drained will produce fine fruit, but cultivating 
around tne trees is very beneficial. Plant early in the Fall; be liberal 
with the spade, make large holes, spread the roots out evenly, and 
plant firmly. 

Plums should not be pruned except for conserving the shape of 
the trees, particularly the Japanese varieties, which usually grow 
very strong the first season, and pruning back is a temptation, but if 
pruned they only produce another strong growth. If left alone 
they will form fruit buds all along these strong growths and so check 
excessive vigor. Plums are the earliest fruits to flower, and a shel- 
tered position should be given them, or plant them on a northern 
exposure where the buds will be retarded until danger of freezing is 
past. Spraying to be eff*ective, should be done very early, and again 
as soon as the blossoms fall, because the fruit is eaten without removing 
the skin. Plums intended for the table should be allowed to ripen 
fully on the tree, but for preserving and culinary purposes they may 
be gathered earlier. Should Plums insist on making a strong, rank 
growth, the best remedy is root pruning. Lift the trees in the Fall 
and shorten back all strong roots, keeping the roots exposed as 
short a time as is possible to complete the work. 



PLUMS 



239 



Some Plums can be raised successfully from seed, the Greengage 
being one of these ; but they are usually budded or grafted on the wild 
Plum stock. 

The curculio is the worst pest we have to deal with, and the only 
way to fight this insect is to gather up all the fruit which falls pre- 
maturely and burn it, as in these fallen fruit the larvae remain until 
full grown, when they eat their way out and enter the ground, where 
they change into the pupa state. The full grown beetle emerges in 
about four weeks and hides under the bark of the tree or some other pro- 
tection until Spring business opens up. 

Another insect which sometimes causes trouble is aphis. Spraying 
with a nicotine solution will destroy this pest, or the tops of the young 
infested growths can be cut off. 

Some of the very choicest Plums for eating are: 
Oullin's Golden Gage. Large, delicious flavor. August. 
Tr.\nsparent Gage. Very large, round, juicy and rich. July. 
Greengage. Medium size, round, green, rich. August. 
Goe's Golden Drop. Very large, golden yellow, rich flavor. September. 
Victoria. Large, oval, red. Useful for every purpose. August. 
Magnum Bonum. Large red. Good culinary variety. September. 

For culinary purposes: Abundance, Burbank, Red June, Sat- 
suMA and Wicks on. 

loganberry 

A few plants of the Loganberry may be grown as a useful novelty. 
The fruit has a very flat taste, but looks very pretty as a dessert, on the 
table. There should be no reason why this easil y cultivated fruit, which 
was raised by a Judge Logan in California, should not be tried in many 
gardens. In England it has become a general favorite. Its treatment in 
all respects is similar to that of the Raspberry. 

MELONS • See Vegetables, Chapter XV 
QUINCE 

A few Quinces are desirable in the small garden, and a tree or two 
will usually produce sufiicient fruit for the average family. Not being 
an edible fruit, it is used only for canning purposes, and makes the 
most delicious jelly, with a flavor all its own. 

In variety there is not much choice, but that known as Apple or 
Orange produces large, roundish fruit, of a bright golden color, and is 
very productive, even when quite small. 

They are best grown in bush form. 



ft 



240 



GARDEN GUIDE 



RASPBERRIES 

The popular Raspberry is always welcome in the home, and only 
when freshly gathered has it that lovely flavor peculiar to this 
fruit and which makes it so desirable in the home garden. Raspberries 
must be handled with the greatest care or the fruit will become bruised 
and soon ferment. Small baskets should be used when picking, to pre- 
vent excessive weight, which invariably crushes the tender berries, and 
they soon become unfit for use. 

The plants are not particular about the kind of soil they grow in, 
nor the location. They grow best in a good, rich, well drained, loamy, 
cultivated garden soil, and should be planted in rows two feet apart 
and four feet between the rows. They are best tied to a wire trellis 
for support and to facilitate ease in gathering the fruit. 

The young growths which spring from the base of the plants, 
should be thinned out to four or five, and after the season's fruit is 
over, the old fruited wood should be cut out close to the ground, and 
the young shoots given every chance to ripen before Winter sets in, 
when they may be tied together in bunches of five or six canes and left 
in this way until Spring, when they must be tied to the wires and 
trimmed evenly along the top to make them look neat. 

Raspberries are not subject to much trouble from insects or 
diseases! 

They are propagated by division of the roots or from cuttings, 
which should be taken from the ripened shoots and inserted in the 
ground in September, and will conmience to grow the following Spring. 

There are red, yellow and black Raspberries, but the red varieties 
are the most popular. A few well tried varieties follow: 

GuTHBERT. Red, large and sweet; the most popular of all Raspberries. 
Brand YwiNE. A large, bright red berry; a good cropper. 
Golden Queen. Large, amber color; fine quality. 
Cumberland. Very large, black, glossy berries, juicy and sweet. 

STRAWBERRIES 

No garden is complete without Strawberries, and as they are so 
easily grown, no garden should be without them. What is nicer than 
a dish of Strawberries picked fresh from your own garden? Straw- 
berries like a rich soil and well repay a very liberal application of fer- 
tilizer. The best time to plant a bed is in September, when the young 
plants are just ready. Select an open piece of ground away from tall 
trees or shrubs; dig in a liberal dressing of well rotted farmyard manure. 



STRAWBERRIES 



241 



with a sprinkling of bonemeal, and in this plant your Strawberries one 
foot apart in the rows and two feet between the rows. 

After the first hard frost throw over them some light protection — 
straw, old hay or anything that will not be liable to pack down on the 
plants too tightly. The object of this covering is not to keep the 
plants from the cold, but to protect them from the sun, which causes 
more failures than the cold. This covering should be removed after 
Spring opens up, but not too early, as a little growth may have al- 
ready started, and if exposed to a late frost may cause much injury. 
The plants which will have become loose by the action of the frost, 
should be gone over and firmly pressed into place, the beds lightly 
forked to prevent the growth of weeds, and when they are in bloom, 
some straw or salt hay should be placed around and between the 
plants to prevent the soil from splashing on the ripe fruit. 

To lengthen the season of fruiting, the first blossoms may be 
picked from some of the plants, and these will fruit about three weeks 
later. Strawberries are sexual and bi-sexual, that is to say, in some 
the flowers have pol- 
len and seed organs, 
in others only one 
set of these. To in- 
sure fruiting it is 
necessary to plant 
some of each kind, 
unless the bi-sexual 
varieties alone are se- 
lected. A bed once 
planted is good for 
at least three years, 
when it should be "re- 
newed. If at all pos- 
sible start a new bed 
one year before the old 

bed is to be destroyed. Good Sized strawberries 

All runners should be cut away annually as soon as the fruiting 
season is past, unless some are wanted to make a new bed, in which 
case the strongest plants should be left until wanted and the runner 
-should be stopped at the first strong plant to accelerate rooting. 

Strawberries, fortunately, are not troubled with many insect 
pests or fungous diseases, and their propagation by runners is very 
simple, as they root freely of their own accord and can be cut off and 
planted where they are to remain. 




242 



GARDEN GUIDE 



There are many fine varieties and their selection is largely a matter 
of preference . The following are bi-sexual and are all good , tested sorts : 
Early. — Clyde, Marshall, Bederwood. 

Mid-season. — Abington, McKinley, Sharpless, Nick Ohmer. 
Late. — Commonwealth, Gandy, Brand ywine. 

Autumn or Perpetual. — ^Amerigus, Progressive. These have small 
fruit and very little of it. To give results they must have extra care. 

Plan for an Ideal Fruit Garden 

On the opposite page we show a diagram of a Fruit Garden, pre" 
pared for the readers of "Garden Guide" by Alfred J. Loveless, one o^ 
the best known and most successful garden fruit growers in the United 
States. This fruit garden has been carefully laid out so as to get the 
maximum amount of fruit from a minimum of space. 

The garden embraces an area of 50 x 100 ft. scaling. If it is not 
possible to give this much area to a distinctively fruit garden, it can be 
modified to fit requirements. The one thing essential is to study the 
plan and the descriptive matter which follows so as to arrive at the ar- 
rangement by species. The reader can then modify the plan to suit 
his own requirements. 

Of one thing you can rest assured, which is that if you follow the 
instructions given all the way through this chapter you will have a 
fruit garden second to none. 

The ten squares in the center represent areas 10 x 12 ft. each. No. 
1 is devoted to Strawberries; No. 2 to Melons; No. 3 to Dewberries; 
Nos. 4 and 9 to Raspberries; Nos. 5 and 10 to Blackberries; No. 6 to 
Loganberries; No. 7 to Gooseberries; No. 8 to Red Currants. These 
will stand variation to meet requirements. 

Key to area surrounding the center ten sections: 
11 and 33 Quince • 

12- 14-16-18 Standard Apples 
20 and 24 Grab Apple 

13- 15-17-19 Bush or Pyramid Apples 
21-22-23-34-35 Cherries 

25- 27-29-31 Standard Peaches 

26- 28-30-32 Standard Plums 

36 to 44 Bush or Pyramid Pears (9) 

45 to 49 Espalier Apples (5) 

50 to 58 Bush Peaches and Apricots (9) 

59 to 74 Cordon Apples, double or single, trained 

low on a single wire (15) 

75 to 90 Grapes (16) 

91 to 96 Standard Currants (6) 

For Fruit Troubles, see Chapters on Insect Pests and Diseases. 



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CHAPTER XVI 



Bungalow^ or Mid-Summer 
Gardening 

ON the heels of an increased interest in country life, and an in- 
creased appreciation of what it offers, there has come, during 
recent years, a noticeable increase in the custom of spending one 
or more of the Summer months in a bungalow up in the mountains or 
down near the seashore. For families that live in cities rather than 
suburbs or small towns, and that are unable to maintain real country 
homes in addition to their flats or apartments, this arrangement is a 
god-send; but too often it is accompanied by inconveniences which, 
accepted as unavoidable, are in reality, entirely unnecessary. It is 
commonly expected, for instance, that unless one's bungalow is located 
close to a friendly farmer's place, or a large central hotel or boarding 
house, there can be no hope of fresh vegetables during the vacation and 
that canned goods must be relied upon during the very months v/hen 
the permanent country dweller is revelling in fresh picked Peas, Beans, 
Lettuce, Tomatoes, etc. Then, too, the idea of a flower garden around 
a bungalow is almost unheard of, the thought being that unless the 
Summer sojourn begins in April or early May it is impossible to pre- 
pare for and plant flowers that will bloom before Labor Day sees the 
family on its homeward way. How can one arrange so that this shall 
not be the case ? 

One way is to have someone who lives nearby get the ground pre- 
pared and the seeds planted as soon as need be — say in April or early 
May — that is, providing the bungalow site is within convenient reach 
of a community where such labor can be obtained. However, unless it 
is done as a personal favor by a friend or acquaintance, it is impossible 
to guarantee that such work will be entirely satisfactory or in line with 
the wishes of the occupants of the bungalow. Another possible plan 
sometimes, is to visit the place during each of two or three week-ends 
before the vacation season opens and do all the preHminary work at 
these odd times. This involves a not too distant location, a bungalow 
that is not occupied by other persons previous to the opening of the 
Summer season, and an owner or landlord who is willing to have the 
tenant make these preparations in advance. 

The commoner and simpler course, however, is to put all the effort 
into a real Summer garden — one in which the work is not started till 

244 



BUNGALOW OR MID-SUMMER GARDENING 245 



the middle or end of June, and from which results are wanted as soon 
as possible and only until early in September. As can easily be im- 
agined, the methods needed to obtain these results are not necessarily 
such as will do the garden the most good in the long run; in other words, 
they are temporary both in effect and in future prospects. Moreover, 
since most bungalow sites are clearings in the midst of woods, or scrubby, 
rocky land, the spaces available for gardening are likely to be small, 
scattered and workable only with hand tools and not with wheel hoes 
and other labor savers. The aim, in short, should be simply to get the 
most with the least outlay for tools the smallest waste of time, etc. 

Fitting the Land * 

There being no opportunity to Fall plow or manure the soil, it is 
usually easiest to dig up the sod and remove it (after shaking it free of 
all the soil possible). It can be piled away somewhere on the chance 
that the next year's occupant of the bungalow will use the compost it 
will provide. If some well rotted manure can be obtained and dug 
in so much the better; usually, however, it is necessary to rely on com- 
mercial fertilizer. Fifty or 100 pounds of a ready mixed brand, fairly 
rich in nitrogen will be plenty for all the season's gardening. From time to 
time wood ashes from the bungalow range and fireplace can be worked 
into the soil with benefit, especially if it is of a heavy, moist nature 
tending to be sour. 

Seeds and Plants 

While some crops can be grown to maturity from seed in two or 
three months, it is much the best plan to buy plants of as many sorts 
as are available and as can be afforded. hese will include, among the 
vegetables. Cabbage, Tomatoes, Lettuce and, if the location is warm 
enough and sunny, a few Peppers and Egg Plant. Some of these crops 
would doubtless have to be left behind at the end of the season, but 
enough should be obtSiined to pay for the trouble. Of the vegetables 
that it will not pay *o plant at all, there may be mentioned Celery, 
Parsnips, Oyster Plant, Potatoes (unless a few early ones can be started 
not later than April 10), Winter Squash, Watermelons, Cauliflower, 
Leeks, Onions (from seed), Pumpkins, late Turnips and Cabbage. 

Vegetables to Grow from Seed 

Depending on weather conditions, the following may be started as 
late as June 30, while some of them, as indicated can be planted sue- 



246 



GARDEN GUIDE 



cessively. In every case when buying seed specify the earliest varieties, 
that is, the quickest maturing sorts offered. 

Beans. Bush, stringless green-pod, or snap. Can make two or even three 

plantings at intervals of a week or ten days. 
Beans. Bush, Wax or Yellow. Same as preceding. 
Beans. Bush Limas. 

Beets. Succession planting can be made up to July 10th, the final sowings 

can be harvested for greens even if the roots don't mature. 
Carrots. Can plant until about July 5th. 

Corn. Early variety planted July 1st may be ready by September 1st. 
Cucumbers. In warm spot may ripen some fruits by August 15th. 
Onions. Sets may be planted and harvested as green or bunch Onions. 
Peas. If season and location are cool, a planting of an early wrinkled 
sort may be tried. 

Radishes. If cool, the earliest sorts may be used; otherwise plant the so- 
called mid-Summer varieties only. 

Spinach. This is another crop that can be planted if the weather is cool. 
Otherwise use only the New Zealand sort which thrives in hot weather. 

Summer Squash. A hill or two may ripen some fruits before September 
if grown rapidly in a sunny place and given occasional doses of manure 
water. 

Swiss Chard. Even though the stalks may not be fully grown if planted 
as late as June 20th, this crop should give fair returns. 

In harvesting quick-season crops of this kind, pick as soon as they 
are big enough to eat. In the case of Beans, etc., this will stimulate 
continued production, and in any case it will give you products of the 
finest, tenderest quality. 

Flowers for July Planting 

If you are able to put some money into Aster, Pansy, Salvia, 
Geranium and other Summer blooming plants, you can be sure of a 
supply of blossoms. But even if you have to start seeds there are several 
sorts from which, under fairly favorable conditions you should be able 
to get good results. Of course they are all annuals. There may be 
mentioned: • 
Balsam. White, through pink to red. 
Calliopsis. Yellow. 
Candytuft. White. 

Catchfly. White, through pink to purple. 
CoBiEA. White and purple. An attr active climber. 
Cornflower. Blue. 
Gypsophila. White and rose. 
Mignonette. Yellowish or greenish white. 



BUNGALOW OR MID-SUMMER GARDENING 247 



Morning Glory. Various. A splendid climber for screening, covering 
trellises, etc. 

Nasturtium. Yellow, orange and red in various shades and combinations. 
Phlox. White, pink, red. 

Portulaca. White, through yellow and pink to purplish. Good for 
sandy soils. 

Ten Weeks Stock. White, through rose to crimson and purple. 

In June and July plantings sow seed somewhat deeper than in 
earlier planting so that the roots will be down in the cooler, moister, 
layer of soil, unless the plants can be kept watered whenever necessary. 
A little nitrate of soda dissolved in water at the rate of an ounce to a 
gallon will hasten the development of both vegetables and flowers ahke. 
To keep the plants blooming, pick the flowers as soon as they appear, 
unless, of course the planting has been made for its mass effect out- 
doors. 




The edging is Dwarf Ageratum; middle row, Mme. SaHeroi Geraniums; third 
row. Zonal Geraniums. These, with the vines and the Geraniums in tubs 
impart an air of refinement and comfort to the house fronts 



CHAPTER XVII 



Fertilizers 

Essential Elements — Sources of Supply — Animal Manures — 
Green Manures — Commercial Fertilizers — ^Bonemeal — Nitrate 
of Soda — Poultry Manure — Lime — ^Humus — ^Where and How 
to Use Fertilizers — Home Mixing of Fertilizers — Suitable 
Fertilizers for Vegetables and Fruits — ^Fertilizing Table — 
Scarcity of Stable Manure — Some Commercial Fertilizers in 

Common Use. 



IT is incumbent upon every gardener that he or she should have 
at least an elementary knowledge of fertilizers; their necessity, 
their composition and their use. Prof* Thos. H. White, in the 
chapter which follows, has given in clear, concise form, this necessary 
information and has also demonstrated the advisability of using 
certain forms of fertilizers for defined purposes. We might add that 
where well rotted stable manure is still available, it will fulfill nearly 
all garden purposes on soil that has been kept in fair cultivation. For 
limited areas we advise consultation with and direct purchase from 
your seedman. 

Essential Elements 

When considering the cultivation of plants it is highly important 
that some thought be given to fertilizers. Some soils are naturally 
fertile, others are very infertile and need judicious fertilizing. Trees 
and shrubs will grow very well on soils that are moderately fertile, 
but the soft, quick growing plants of the garden must have very fertile 
soil. This is especially true of all annual plants that are grown from 
seed. The little seedlings, with their small, tender rootlets, must be 
properly supplied with food before it is possible for them to make 
rapid growth. 

Nearly everything that is in the air or on the earth supplies some- 
thing, either directly or indirectly, to the soil as fertilizer. All organic 
substances, that is, substances which have or have had life, are of 

248 



FERTILIZERS 

0 



249 



prime importance as fertilizers. The inorganic substances, or mineral 
elements of the earth, are also important but not nearly as much so as 
the organic. The basis of all soil is mineral, and it is the decay of 
living matter upon and within it which enriches and makes it capable 
of producing good crops. 

The oldest forms of organic fertilizers were the remains of plants 
that followed each other on the earth's surface. After these came 
animal excreta. The dead bodies also of the animals themselves all 
helped to add organic matter to the ground-up rock of which the 
soil is composed. Material that is of organic origin is very beneficial 
to the life of the soil. Soil is not exactly what it appears to the eye 
to be; simply dead, inert matter. In fact, if there is any organic 
material in it, it will be found to be teeming with life, from the small 
bacterium that can only be seen under the highest powered microscope 
to the common angle worm that supplies the fisherman's bait. This 
life of the soil is all doing its part in changing the organic matter into 
such shape that the plants may use it for food. This bacterial and 
other life of the soil all require just the right amount of air, water, 
minerals and organic matter in order that they may carry on their 
important work. Some of the most important of these are the nitri- 
fying organisms. These change the decaying vegetable matter into 
such form that it can be dissolved in water and thus be taken 
up by the plants. Some of the essential elements for plant growth 
are calcium, iron, phosphorus, potash, magnesium, sulpher, silica and 
nitrogen. Most soils contain enough iron, magnesia, silica and sulphur, 
as the plants use very little of these, but nitrogen, phosphorus, potash 
and calcium have to be constantly supplied in order to replace that 
which has been taken out by the plants grown upon it. Heavy clay 
soils contain more potash than the sandy soils. 

^ Sources of Supply 

There are three main sources from which fertilizers can be 
obtained : animal manures, green manures, and commercial fertilizers. 

Animal Manures 

Animal manures of all kinds are what are called complete f^rtih- 
zers; this means that they supply all the essential elements of plant 
growth; properly saved and composted so that the strawy material 
that is used in bedding the animals is well decayed, they are as good as 
anything which can be supplied. Since the advent of automobiles, 
however, stable manure is getting scarce and difficult to obtain. 



£50 



GARDEN GUIDE 
Green -Manures 



Green manures are so named because they are plants of various 
kinds that are grown upon the soil, preferably when no other crop 
could occupy it, and are spaded or plowed under in a green condition. 

Any kind of plant will make green manure, but the preference is 
always given to those of the legume family. The blossoms of plants of 
this family are, almost all of them, pea-like in character. All of the 
Peas, Beans, and Glovers are legumes. Remarkable characteristics of 
these plants are the knots or tubercles on the roots. Bacteria live in 
these tubercles and store up in them the nitrogen existing in the form of 
gas in the air. None of the other plants but those of the legume 
family take nitrogen from the air and store it in the soil. If any 
other green plants, such as Rye, Rape, Kale or Turnips are used for 
green manure they simply return back to the soil what they have taken 
from it. Even then they are of great benefit as they help, Hke manure 
does, to bind the particles of sandy soils together and make clay soils 
friable. They also furnish organic matter which, in turn, makes humus 
that is of great value in holding the moisture in the soil. 

Commercial Fertilizers 

Conmiercial fertihzers are so called because they are bought and 
sold and gathered together from all parts of the earth. The dung of 
sea birds that had collected on some of the rocky coasts and islands of 
South America was one of the earliest forms of commercial fertilizers. 
It is called guano. Another was the bones of animals that were collected 
in the desert places of the world and brought home and ground into 
fine dust. Three of the impQrtant sources of the present day, are the 
phosphate rocks of Tennessee, Florida, and South Carolina ; the nitrate 
beds of Chili, and the potash mines of Germany. . The slaughter houses 
and the garbage collected in the large cities also add their quota to the 
commercial fertihzer groups. Other materials, such as the meal from 
Cotton seed, after the oil has been pressed out; the bones and other por- 
tions of fish after the oil has been removed ; the sulphate of ammonia 
that is a by-product in the manufacture of coke, all help to increase 
the fertilizer supply. There is also being manufactured at the present 
time calcium nitrate, which is nitrogen that is taken from the air (by 
means of electricity) and combined with lime. 

These materials are all used and are apportioned and mixed so as 
to supply varying proportions of the main food requirements of plants. 



FERTILIZERS 



^51 



Commercial fertilizers are sold under the inspection of the state chemists. 
They are sold according to the amounts of nitrogen (ammonia), phos- 
phoric acid and potash which they contain. The dealers have found that it 
pays to make up special brands for special crops containing such vary- 
' ing amounts of the three important elements as may seem to be of 
special benefit to the crop to be grown. They are, therefore, put up in 
i| bags and labeled with special reference to the crop they are suited to. 

The manuring of any crop must always be with reference to the 
fertihty of the piece of land being used. If the soil is almost devoid of 
^ organic matter nothing much but trees and shrubs will grow upon it 
I and these make but poor growth. If plenty of water can at all times 
I be supplied, commercial fertilizers will give good results where the hu- 
mus content of the soil is low , but under ordinary conditions the commer- 
cial fertilizers do best where there is an abundance of organic matter. 
It is always advisable, when possible, to use all three of the different 
kinds of fertilizers. 

The most expensive element in fertilizers is the nitrogen. For this 
reason do not buy cheap or low priced fertilizers. Crops like early 
Potatoes, Cabbage, Lettuce, Beets, Tomatoes, Sugar Corn, Spinach, 
Egg Plant, Peppers, Melons, Cucumbers and Squash should be fertil- 
ized with a fertilizer that contains at least five per cent, of nitrogen,, 
seven or eight per cent, of phosphoric acid and five or six per cent, of 
potash. For Beans ^nd root crops and all fruit trees or bushes, fertili- 
zers containing two per cent, of nitrogen, eight per cent, of phosphoric 
acid and four or five per cent, potash will be found good. 

Any of these conmiercial fertilizers can be supplied at the rate of 
two ounces to the square yard of land before planting the crop. The 
material should be well mixed in with the soil. If the land is quite 
poor, and has had no other manure, the same amount can be scattered 
over the soil around the plants when they are half grown, and hoed or 
cultivated in. 

Bonemeal 

Raw animal bonemeal is a good fertihzer. It contains both nitrogen 
and phosphoric acid and can be used at the rate of a quarter-pound to 
the square yard. This is a good fertilizer to keep on hand as it does not 
lose its value by being stored. It is quite dry and if kept in a dry 
place, it will not get into hard lumps like some of the other fertilizer 
ingredients. It is somewhat slower in its action than a fertilizer made 
up to analyze the same from acid phosphate and nitrate of soda. 



£52 GARDEN GUIDE 1 

Nitrate of Soda ^ 

Nitrate of soda is valuable to use alone, or it can be mixed with its 
equal weight of acid phosphate and used on any crops where tender- 
ness of leaf is desirable. It should be used as a top dressing at the rate 
of one ounce to the square yard in the early Spring, and again when the 
plants are half grown. 

Most of these fertihzers, either the made up brands, or the separate 
ingredients can be purchased at the seed stores in large cities and at 
general stores in the country towns. 



Poultry Manure 

Poultry manure can be used effectively in the garden. It is a com- 
plete fertilizer, but for crops like Potatoes, Turnips, Beets, Onions, and 
Beans, it is well to use some acid phosphate with it. Poultry manure 
should be kept dry so that it can be scattered over the soil at the rate 
of one pound to the square yard. Acid phosphate can be mixed with it 
at the rate of twelve pounds to the hundred of poultry manure, or ap- 
pKed directly to the soil along with the poultry manure at the rate of 
two ounces to the square yard. 



Lime • 

Calcium or lime is quite valuable in gardens where green manures 
are used considerably. It will also be of much benefit on vacant building 
lots or fields intended to be used for gardens. Lime can now be obtained 
from the same dealers as the fertilizers, either in the form of ground lime- 
stone or hydrated (slaked) lime. Both of these forms are convenient 
to apply. The hydrated lime is quicklime that has been slaked by the 
action of steam. It is quicT^ in its effect and should be used at the rate 
of half a pound to the square yard of freshly plowed or dug soil. 
The ground limestone should be used in the same way but at the rate 
of one pound to the square yard. Lime is used to '^sweeten" soil. For in- 
stance, some soils become too rich owing to over-heavy manuring. 
In such case, the manuring should stop for a season but a coating of 
lime should be given instead. This of itself, is not a fertilizer; it un- 
locks other plant food that is in the soil, making it available for the 
roots. Lime ought not to be appHed along with manure (dung), but 
be forked in early in the Spring. It has the property of making clay 
more open or friable, and conversely, of firming a sandy soil. It neu- 
tralizes the acids that are in soils. It is good for all vegetable soils. 



FERTILIZERS 



253 



Miscellaneous 

There are some other manures on the market that are handled 
more especially by seedsmen and others who supply greenhouse men. 
These are the dried cattle, hog and sheep manures that are collected in 
cattle pens and cars. They are quite valuable in promoting plant growth 
and may be used at the rate of half a pound to the square yard. The 
rates of application given here are moderate and safe. Commercial 
fertilizers should always be carefully weighed and not guessed at, not only 
for the sake of economy but for the fact that some of the highly concen- 
trated kinds may do more harm than good if applied injudiciously. 
When applying as a top dressing avoid spilling the fertilizers on the 
leaves of the plants. 

Humus as a Fertilizer 

Humus is the name given by gardeners to decomposing vegetable 
matter. In many ways it is like dung. This matter may comprise 
lawn mowings, leaves from deciduous trees, and all the odds and ends 
of vegetative growth that one cleans up or gets from the garden. Too 
often this material is bundled out of sight or pitched away as useless. 
It is a gold mine. Have a place for it and accumulate all you can. Turn 
it over once or twice to facilitate rotting. Every Spring, spread it on 
the soil and dig it in or keep it in reserve for particular purposes. If the 
humus heap has had lime applied, it will be still better. Whatever has 
not been thoroughly decomposed can be held back. Humus darkens 
soil and dark soil absorbs the warmth of the sun. Humus holds 
moisture, therefore is liked by the roots. It opens up a stiff soil and 
aerates it. Moreover it furnishes an essential medium for the bacteria 
that teem in all fertile soils and which manufacture food for the use of 
the plants. It is invaluable, and many derelict soils could be made 
to yield crops if humus and dung were applied. It is especially val- 
able on sandy soils. 

WHERE AND HOW TO USE FERTILIZERS 

The animal manures from the stable, those from the horse, cow and 
pig, can be spread on the land and plowed under for the coarser feeding 
crops, such as Cabbage, Corn, Melons, Squash, etc. Ten or twelve 
pounds to each square yard would be a fair dressing of these manures. 
Stable manure should never be put directly on land upon which Pars- 
nips, Carrots or Salsify are to be planted. It will invariably induce 



254 GARDEN GUIDE 

them to form prongy, inferior roots. These crops should go on land 
that was manured the season previously or else be fertilized with com- 
mercial fertilizer. The green manures can be sown on pieces of land 
which would otherwise lay bare in Winter. Rye is the latest crop 
of these that is worth while to plant; this can be sown after the final 
crops come off, just before freezing weather. The clovers and Vetch 
must be sown earlier. Frequently, this is done at the last cultivation 
that is given to the later Summer crops; such as Tomatoes and Sugar 
Corn. Any plants that are planted for green manures should be plowed 
or spaded into the soil early in the season while they are soft and suc- 
culent for much of the v alue of the green manures is in the decayed vege- 
table matter it supplies to the soil. The process of decay is very much 
' more rapid if the material is turned under when the plant is quite tender. 
This is especially true of Rye. If the R ye gets tall and woody it will not 
decay rapidly enough to be of any benefit to the crop following it. 

Commercial fertilizers should always be applied just a little before 
planting or shortly after the crop gets started. The elements they con- 
tain are very soluble in water and the nitrogen is quite easily leached 
out through the drainage. On account of this solubility care should 
always be observed in applying them. Only a very slight amount 
•should come in contact with the germinating seeds so it is always best 
to thoroughly mix them with the soil. The fertilizing of the garden 
with commercial fertilizers is not so complex a proposition as it often 
appears to the novice. The confusion in the matter has come about 
largely through there being such a multitude of brands with such vary- 
ing percentages of nitrogen, phoshporic acid and potash. There are 
a few essentials that must be known about commercial fertilizers; after 
these are understood the rest is easy. 

Manufacturers of fertilizers use as a basis for most of their goods 
the phosphate rock which has been dissolved by being mixed with 
sulphuric acid. To this is added tankage, nitrate of soda, muriate or 
sulphate of potash, dried garbage, or any other material that has high 
fertihzing value. It is then all ground and mixed by machinery, after 
which it'is analyzed by the chemist. 

All fertilizer manufacturers have certain brands that are put out 
for some special purpose; such as, * 'special corn grower," or * 'potato fer- 
tilizer,'' or "special truck crop grower." The name is not important 
but the percentage of nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash is very 
much so. 



FERTILIZERS 255 
HOME MIXING OF FERTILIZERS 

If it is of any advantage to mix fertilizers at home all that is 
ceded is to purchase acid phosphate, nitrate of soda and tankage 
and, when it can be obtained, muriate of potash. These can be mixed 
so as to supply any per cent, of the plant food essentials. For in- 
stance, one hundred pounds of acid phosphate contains fourteen 
pounds of phosphoric acid, fifty pounds of nitrate of soda contains 
eight pounds of nitrogen, twenty-five pounds of muriate of potash 
contains twelve pounds of potash, and twenty-five pounds of eight 
per cent, tankage contains two pounds of nitrogen. This, all mixed 
together, would make a splendid fertilizer for garden crops and would 
contain about five per cent, of nitrogen, seven per cent, of phosphoric 
acid, and six per cent, of potash. 

SCARCITY OF STABLE MANURE 

Owing to the almost universal use of automobiles and motor trucks, 
the rapidly increasing demand for farm tractors, and the consequent 
enormous decrease in the number of horses employed on farms and 
elsewhere, the supply of stable manure has diminished to such an 
extent that it is all but unobtainable for gardening, or even farming 
purposes. Well-rotted manure, so generally advocated in ''Cultural 
Directions" as a means of increasing soil productiveness, has therefore 
been largely supplanted by commercial fertilizers, upon which raisers 
of crops will, mainly, have to rely to meet their needs in the future. 
As an all-round soil-improving material stable manure is particularly 
effective, but it is now well established that land may be enriched with- 
out its use, providing the humus element in the soil is maintained and 
commercial fertilizers are carefully selected and judiciously applied. 
See "Humus as a Fertilizer," on page 253. 



MESSAGES OF FLOWERS, OR THEIR FLORAL CODE AND DIC- 
TIONARY, by George H. I'Neill. Lovers of flowers and their lore will find 
a treasure house in this interesting and comprehensive manual which gives the 
language of flowers and a variety of other information. Paper, postpaid 35c.; 
cloth, postpaid $1 .00. Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide. 



Always consult Index of Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention 
if you do not use the Index freely. 



256 



GARDEN GUIDE 



SOME COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS IN 
COMMON USE 

The appended list will serve as a helpful guide to gardeners when 
the season calls for the application of fertilizers to the soil. Directions 
are usually labeled on fertilizer packages. As a general rule the use of 
commercial fertilizers is advocated only when a plentiful supply of good 
stable manure is not available. In some cases, however, the addition 
of a commercial or chemical fertilizer will prove advantageous. 



Ashes, Hard- 
wood 



Unleached hardwood ashes contain potash and 
lime and are valuable both as a fertilizer and as a 
means of destroying some insects and controlling 
diseases. They are an excellent top dressing for 
lawns. 



Blood, Dried | Rapidly soluble, therefore quickly beneficial; valu- 

I able for all vegetable crops. Essentially a nitro- 

I genous fertilizer. 

Blood and Bone | A high-grade, well-balanced fertilizer, of consider- 

I able value for all garden purposes. 



Bonemeal 



Bone, Cracked 



Cattle Manure, 
Shredded 

Complete Fer- 
tilizers 



Decomposes rather slowly and is therefore of lasting 
benefit, A safe and effective source of potash 
and phosphoric acid. 

For Grapevines, fruit trees and shrubs of all kinds. 
Apply when planting out and mix well with the 
soil to a depth of a foot or more. 

For general fertilizing; good to mix with com- 
post. 

Various brands are procurable from most dealers. 
They combine the essential plant food elements 
in convenient form, which justifies their increased 
price over the materials if bought separately. 



Horse Manure, | A general all-round soil enricher; promotes rapid, 
Dried | steady growth. 



Humus 



Humus, rotted vegetable matter, valuable for its 
beneficial effect on the physical condition of soils, 
especially sandy ones. (See ** Humus as a Fer- 
tilizer" on another page.) Various brands are 
offered. They are handy for making rich, light 
potting soil, compost, etc. 



Land Plaster | Of value as an absorbent of liquid manures in stable; 

I also as an insecticide for Cucumber, Melon and 
I Squash pests. Has no plant food value. 



COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS 



257 



Lime I NeutraKzes the acidity of soils and increases avail- 

ability of plant food. Apply as far in advance of 
planting as possible. A few crops are injured 
by its presence. 



Nitrate of Soda 



Phosphate 



An active, quickly soluble, nitrogenous fertilizer, 
stimulating the leaf growth. Can be used alone 
as top dressing or in solution, or mixed with other 
fertilizers. Use at rate of one ounce per square 
yard; work well into soil and keep off foliage. 

Name sometimes given to any commercial fertilizer, 
but strictly some form of ground phosphatic rock; 
and phosphate is the most soluble form. Pro- 
motes seed development and fruit development. 



Potash, Muriate 
AND Sulphate 



Salt, Agricul- 
tural 



Two closely similar sources of the essential element, 
potassium, needed for the best development of 
all crops. 

Used as a top dressing for Asparagus beds in the 
Spring. Also a good weed killer. 



Sheep Manure, 



A popular natural manure, dried and pulverized 
for easy handling. Gives good results in the 
vegetable garden and as lawn dressing. Makes 
a rich liquid manure. 



Soot, Scotch 



Sulphate of 
Ammonia 



Stimulates growth, improves color of foliage and 
flowers and is an effective remedy for slugs, 
grubs and cutworms. 

A soluble, quick-acting, nitrogen carrier, not greatly 
different from nitrate of soda and used like it. 



FERTILIZING TABLE 

Dealers in cataloguing fertilizers generally advise the application 
of a given quantity per acre. As this often puzzles persons who have 
only a small garden to cultivate, the following table will prove useful : 



Quantity Equivalent 
per acre per 10 sq. ft. 

100 lbs 1/3 oz. 

200 lbs ^ oz. 

300 lbs iViooz. 

400 lbs 13^ oz. 

500 lbs 1% oz. 

600 lbs 2V5 oz. 

700 lbs oz. 



Quantity Equivalent 
per acre per 10 sq. ft. 

800 lbs 3 oz. 

900 lbs 3V3 oz. 

1,000 lbs 32/3 oz. 

1,100 lbs 4 oz. 

1,200 lbs .4% oz. 

1,300 lbs 4% oz. 

1,400 lbs 5V7 oz. 



Quantity Equivalent 
per acre per 10 sq. ft. 

1,500 lbs 51^ oz. 

1,600 lbs 5%ooz. 

1,700 lbs 6K oz. 

1,800 lbs 6% oz, 

1,900 lbs 7 oz. 

Ton 7^3 oz. 



258 



GARDEN GUIDE 



SUITABLE FERTILIZERS FOR VEGETABLES 

AND FRUITS 

The table shows some of the important vegetables and fruits arranged 
in groups with the suitable fertilizers for any vegetable in the group. Any 
one or all three of the different fertilizers can be used. If all three are used 
take one-third of each or, if two are used, one-half of each. 



Name of 
Vegetable 



Suitable 
Fertilizers 



Com 

Cabbage 

Cauliflower 

Egg Plant 

Tomato 

Lettuce 

Peas 

Squash 

Celery 

Melons 



Potatoes 
Turnips 

Radish 

Beans 

Parsnips 

Onions 

Carrots 

Salsify 

Beets 



Grapes 

Currants 

Gooseberries 

Rhubarb 

Strawberries 

Asparagus 



Stable manure 

or 

Poultry manure 

or 

Commercial fertilizer 
containing: nitrogen 
5%, phosphoric acid 
8% and potash 4% 



Stable manure. 



or 

Poultry manure, 



or 

Commercial fertiHzer, 
nitrogen 2%, phos- 
phoric acid 8%, pot- 
ash 4% 



Stable manure 

or 

Poultry manure 

or Commercial fertili- 
zer: nitrogen 4%, 
phosphoric acid 8%, 
potash 4%. 



Rate per 
Square Yard 



10 or 12 

pounds 



1 pound 



2 ounces 



10 or 12 
pounds 



1 pound 



2 ounces 



10 or 12 
pounds 



1 poimd 



2 ounces 



When 
Applied 



Before plowing 
or digging 



After plowing 



Just before 
planting 



Before plowing 
for previous 
crops 



Just befoje 
planting 



Between the 
rows in Wintei 



Just before cul- 
tivation com- 
mences in the 
Spring 



Green Manure — Last cultivation 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
chapter we would recommend 

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS, by H. J. Wheeler. A dear and 
unusually full discussion of the practical utilization of manures and feriilizers 
of all kinds, and of their relations to the plant and to the soil. Cloth, illus- 
trated. Price, $1.90 postpaid. Secure your copies where you bought your 

Garden Guide. 



CHAPTER XVIII 



Pruning 

Its Advantage— Pruning Briers and Roses for Landscape Effect — 
Climbing and Polyantha Roses — ^Hybrid Perpetuals — Hybrid 
Teas — Shrubs — Hedges — Fruit Trees — Evergreens — List of 
Subjects with Pruning Instructions 

PRUNING, when practiced properly, is an aid to trees and shrubs. 
It not only stimulates growth, but increases fruitfulness at cer- 
.tain seasons; it keeps the plant full of healthy, disease-resistant 
growth, and gives us the privilege of changing the habit. We do ad- 
mire symmetrical, dense trees, graceful shrubs or stocky hedges, all 
of which are maintained by pruning. Many times we even admire 
the picturesque results that can be obtained by making a tree grow 
out of its natural development. Pruning does stimulate growth be- 
cause it tends to send the energy to the part of the plant in which it is 
most wanted. It is well known that a pruned plant inclines to resume 
its natural habit and that there is always a tendency to grow from 
upper buds. Checking growth ususally causes an increase in flower 
production. 

What Pruning Includes 

Besides the general removal of large branches, pruning includes 
the process of pinching, or removing undeveloped eyes to check growth 
in a certain direction; trimming, shortening top and roots at trans- 
planting; topping, removing the leader or a flower stalk to retain the' 
energy in the plant rather than in making a strong leader or seeds; 
suckering, the removing of shoots at base of plant to throw the strength 
into the plant itself. This would include the cutting of shoots from 
the stock in grafted plants; disbudding, removing of small buds at 
sides of main ones to throw the food into the perfect production of 
the larger flower; ringing, the cutting out of a narrow ring of bark from 
a branch of a tree (in the case of fruit the result is the production of a 
large specimen due to the fact that the food is all kept at the place be- 
yond the ring) ; root-pruning, the cutting of roots at planting time so 
that they may be symmetrical and have clean, undecayed surfaces, but 
the top must always be shortened proportionately when this is done; 
sprouting, the cutting out of all sterile, unfruitful branches, which are 
usually 'calledVater' sprouts. 

259 



X 



260 GARDEN GUIDE 

Roses 

If we observe Rose bushes we will be able to see that they bloom 
from what were the strong shoots the previous season, and that these 
shoots become weaker when another shoot begins to grow lower down. 
There is an annual renewal of wood, therefore, and this is why 
pruning is necessary. Most Roses must be pruned severely at planting. 
Some chmbers are ruined from the start by too little pruning. In order 
to keep the bushes opened nicely, the cut must always be made to an 
outside bud. Take care not to leave stubs above a bud either; 
the tips always die back and may die back farther than preferred. 

Briers and Roses for Landscape Effect 

Those Roses wiiich are to be seen in mass and with which a pro- 
fusion of bloom is to be perf erred to a few slightly larger blooms should 
be pruned but little. The main work is to improve the shape of the bush 
and cut out the very oldest wood. Wood which has flowered year after 
year should be cut out from the base of the plant so that the younger 
shoots may be given a chance. Prune in March. 

Climbing and Polyantha 
Roses 

Little pruning is necessary in Spring 
except to cut out any branches which 
have been killed. The old wood can 
usually be gradually removed year after 
year. All new canes should be care- 
fully tied up. Prune in March. 

' Hybrid Perpetuals 

Various soils and climates cause the 
Hybrid Perpetuals to be either very tall 
bushes or^ in other locaHties only to 
attain a height of three feet. The 
varieties differ greatly in height and 
amount of pruning needed. The weak- 
est shoots should be pruned the most 
severely; in the same way' the strong- 
est varieties need the least pruning. 
Never leave a weak shoot. Care must 
be exercised that all shoots are not 




Pruning a Dwarf Rose 

The dotted lines show the grawth 
or stems that are to be rut away. 
As a rule amateur gardeners are 
too much afraid to prune hard. 
"The weaker the growth the 
harder the pruning," is a fairly 
safe rule to follow 



PRUNING 



261 



pruned to the same height. Prune early in Spring for main pruning, 
because the shoots are apt to freeze back if done in Fall or Winter, 
The canes of the strongest varieties, which may be eight or nine feet 





Pruning Shrubs 

1, An unpruned example. 2, Pruned so that all the branches are of equal length. This 
is improper but all too commonly practiced. 3, Growths thinned out and shortened. 
This is the correct method. It is the same shrub in each case 



long, should be shortened a third in Autumn to prevent the injurious 
whipping by the Autumn winds. 

Hybrid Teas 

The Hybrid Teas should hardly be pruned as severely as the 
Hybrid Perpetuals, otherwise the treatment is the same. 



GARDEN GUIDE 



The Teas 

The Teas often freeze back to the soil ; if so, remove all wood which is 
the least bit browned. Take care to prune very severely; the plants will 
appreciate it and reciprocate by producing good blooms. All shoots which 
Hve through the Winter should be shortened one third. Never make 
the mistake of thinking that there is so little bush left that it will be 
best not to prune at all. Nothing could be more faulty. Teas must 
be carefully watched for suckers from the stock, which should be re- 
moved from their point of origin. The leaflets of the grafted stock are 
often paler green and not so glossy, and have five to seven leaflets, in- 
stead of three to five, as with many varieties. Never prune before eyes 
start because some may be frozen back if done too early. 

Shrubs 

There are essentiaUy two classes of shrubs — the Spring and the 
Summer blooming ones. Those which bloom in the Spring have their 
flower buds aU formed on the bushes by the previous Autunm; they are 
usuaUy near the top of the plant. Any pruning in late Winter or early 
Spring causes a removal of these flowers. 

The most pernicious habit is the one which so many enthusiastic 
gardeners have of pruning everything in the Spring, and not only that, 
but making the graceful Barberries, Spiraeas and Mock Oranges into 
formal, stiff shapes, due entirely to cutting their bushes with shoots 
all the same length. 

Many Spiraeas and Golden Bells never bloom well, while the 
Hydrangea blooms perfectly, merely because every one prunes in the 
early Spring, which is not at all the proper time for, say Golden Bells, 
but exactly proper for Hydrangeas. Spring blooming shrubs must be 
headed in a trifle after flowering, which will cause the production of 
flowering wood for another year. 

Hedges 

A hedge, in order to give the best light conditions to the lower 
branches, should be broad at the bottom and narrower at the top. It is 
best not to be flat on top for snow quickly lodges in this sort of hedge 
and spreads it so that the true beauty is spoiled. Hedges should be 
trimmed before growth starts in the Spring and again Hghtly in late 
Summer or Fall. The young growth is best kept its proper length 



PRUNING 



263 



before it grows very long, otherwise the cut ends of the branches are 
large and over conspicuous. 

Fruit Trees 

In pruning fruit trees for home grounds there should be an effort 
to keep them always low headed and open. This means that from the 
start the branches should be encouraged to grow out from the main 
trunk. Avoid allowing the branches to start so that a crotch is formed 
and have them distributed around the tree so that when they bear fruit 
there will be a natural balance. As the years pass, less pruning is 
necessary on fruit trees, except to keep the center open so that some 
light can get in to color the fruit. Dead or crowded branches must J3e 
removed. Any appearance of disease is better cut out than any treat- 
ment that can be given it. A tree once in good bearing condition 
seldom needs extensive pruning. 




Pruning a Limb 

a, Branch cut off too long. b.^The branch (a) after several years, has died back but 
cannot heal, c, A branch cut properly, d, A branch which is cut so that a little pocket 
is left in which water can settle and cause decay, e, A wound healing properly, f, A 
I branch being strangled by a wire-tie 



^64 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Evergreens 

Evergreens need little pruning except to correct any lack of 
uniformity of growth. Many times in Pines, among the young growths 
some appear to be away ahead of others; if care is exercised they may 
be slightly pinched to check growth in that direction. Even if the 
leader of Spruces or Firs is lost, they seem capable of making a new 
one. If, however, these and other conifers whose leaders having lost 
their terminal buds fail to develop naturally, a new leader can often 
be made to replace one lost by taking a top branch, bending it to a 
vertical position and maintaining it in that position by tying it, not 
too tightly, to the stub of the old leader. In due course this branch 
will assume an upright form and fhe tie can then be cut. Much can be 
done by staking and training of evergreens, assisted by pruning. The 
latter operation may lead to gumming if done. carelessly or at an 
improper time. 

Directions for Pruners 

Below Js given a list of some seventy-five of those plants in general 
use, with directions how and when to prune. By following the direc- 
tions given the amateur gardener will be able to show good and satis- 
factory results. 



Name 



AlvEBlA - 

AmoRpha frutescens 
Apple 



Azalea Ghent and mollis 
Berberis Ttiunbergii 

vulgaris 
Blackberries 

Celastrus 
Cerasus, Ornamental 
Cercis canadensis 

JAPONICA 

Cherry, Sour 



Cherry, Sweet 



ChIONANTHUS VtRGINICA 

Clematis 

COLUTEA ARBORESCENS 

Crat/egus Oxyacantha 
Currants 



Deutzias 
Dogwood 

Dwarf Horse Chestnut 
El<<eagnus longipes 



How to Prune 



Give only a little pruning. 

Requires pruning each year. For home gar- 
den Apple tree headvS should be low so that 
the fruit may be readily picked. Keep the 
tree open in center by removing 
branches which interfere, those which cross 
or shade each other. 

Remove old wood . 

Remove only oldest shoots to retain form. 

Remove old canes after fruiting; tip back in 
Spring to C ft. or 8 ft. 



Need little pruning except to remove 
branches which are crossed or broken. 

Keep head low because they have tendenrv 
to grow tall, and also to prevent the 
damage often caused by sun and wind. 

Requires very little pruning. 

Rather vigorous pruning. 



Canes bear two or three times, cut out f-'w 
oldest canes each year, otherwise fruit be- 
comes smalK 

Unless over long do not cut back shoots. 



Needs to be looked over each year for re- 
moval of old wood and straggling branches. 



When 



July 

Jan. -Mar. 
Feb.-Mar. 



July 
July 



Julv 
July 

July 

Feb.-Mar. 
Feb.-Mar. 



July 

Tan.-Mar. 
Jan.-Mar. 
Tuly 

Feb.-Mar. . 
Late Summer 

July 
Tuly 

Jan.-Mar. 
July 



PRUNING 



265 



Name 



EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA 

(See Pearl Bush) 
Flowering Currant 

(Ribes aureum) 
Flowering Plum 
forsythias 
Fringe Tree 

(See Chionanthus) 
Golden Bell 

(See Forsythia) 
Golden Chain 

(See Laburnum) 
Gooseberries 



Grapes 



(5«e illustration Pages 



Hibiscus syriacus 

(See Rose of Sharon) 
Honeysuckles 



Hydrangea 



Hydrangea paniculata 



How to Prune 



Cut back just after flowering. 

Encourage vigorous young growth. Trim 
out older wood. 

Thin out branches and trim back others im- 
mediately after flowering. 



Remove oldest shoots annually. In July or 
Aug. cut back each a bit; it causes more 
fruit buds to form. 

Persons who have inherited tangles of Grape 
vines should exercise care in pruning the 
first year. Do not remove too much at the 
start, otherwise no Grapes will be pro- 
duced. When possible, all unmature canes 
should be pruned back to a single eye if the 
vines are very large, but two eyes may be 
left if the vines are quite small. When the 
Grapes have nicely set we seem to think 
that they are benefited by cutting off the 
tips of each bearing cane two leaves away 
from each bunch. The canes usually branch 
in this case, and they may be cut back a 
little even then. Should one acquire or 
have to buy new vines, it is well to have a 
definite simple system of training. Grapes 
at planting and the year after should have 
the vines cut back two to three eyes. Then 
head back to 20 to 24 in. long. Several sys- 
tems of training are good. 

Munson System. Will be found illustrated 
ani described in full in fruit chapter. Claim- 
ed to be the easiest for the amateur. 

Kniffin System. Good if wind is not too 
strong; simple. Single trunk is carried to 
the upper of two wires and two canes are 
taken out at an eye for each wire. Each 
year all the canes are removed except a 
shoot from each; spurs are chosen from the 
trunk. A vine may carry 40 buds usually. 
The fruit canes are produced on shoots of 
previous year's growth. 

Chautauqua System. Two short, permanent 
branches are established at the lower 
wire; two or three canes are left on each 
arm and tied up to upper wire; 
these canes are renewed each year 
from buds at their base. When arms get 
too old, new ones are easily established. 



The climbers and the bush Honeysuckles, 
except Spring flowering Standishii and fra- 
grantissima which two latter prune in July. 

Hydrangeas bloom upon wood produced the 
current season from older wood. They 
must, therefore, not be cut down wholly to 
the ground, otherwise they bloom poorly. 

These shrubs should be large because they 
are old; they should not be allowed to get 
into a monstrous size when young; their 
beauty is entirely spoiled by such treat- 
ment. If one does not admire the flower 
stalks, they are best pruned in Nov. 



When 



July 
July 



Late Summer 
Jan.-Mar 



Jan.-Mar. 
Jan.-Mar. 

Jan.-Mar. 



I 

260 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Name 



Indian Currant 
Japanese Quinces 
Kerria japonica 

KCELREUTERIA PANICULATA 

Laburnum vulgare 

LiGUSTRUMS 

Lilac 



Magnolias 

Mahonia aquifolia 
Matrimony Vine 
Mountain Laurel 

Neviusia alabamensis 

p/eonia moutan 

Pavia (See Dwarf Chestnut) 



How to Prune 



Require only that old wood shall be removed. 
Shorten any straggling shoots after flow- 
ering. 

Prune out old wood if specimen flowers are 
preferred, also prune out all the sprouts from 
the base. 

Require only that old wood shall be re- 
moved. Tar over all scars. 
Require only that old wood shall be removed. 

Requires only that old wood should be re- 
moved. 



When 

Jan.-Mar. 
July 

Jan.-Mar. 

July 

July 

Jan.-Mar. 
July. 



July. 

July. 
Jan.-Mar 



July 
July 




PRUNING RASPBERRY CANES 

Remove all the old canes in Winter as shown at A. Canes of 
black Raspberries, when growing, can be tipped to produce 
laterals as at B. These will fruit the following year. 



Peach 



Pear 

Pearl Bush 

Philadelphus 

Plum 

Privet (See Hedges) 
Prunus 

Double flowering Almond 
Dwf . dbl. flowering Almond 
P. tomentosa 

■ P. triloba 

Quinces 

Raspberries, Black 



Feb.-Mar. 



Feb.-Mar. 
July 

Jan.-Mar. 
Feb.-Mar. 



July. 



Head very low. Cut back ends of branches. Feb.-Mar. 

Fruit borne on wood of current season. i 
Bear on wood which grew previous year. i.Vfter fruiting. 



The Peach bears on shoots of previous year. 
The tree must, therefore, never be headed 
back; whole branches should be removed 
when pruning. Heading in does cause pro- 
duction of new wood but method advised 
is better. 

Low heads, keeping them open if possible. 
Keep all branches free from water sprouts. 



Moderate pruning to remove old branches 
and new ones if tree becomes overloaded. 





PRTTlVITIVrr^ 
triX U iM I iM Ur 


207 


Name 


How to Prune 


_ 

When 


■■ 

Raspberries, Red 


Remove old canes after fruiting, leavmg 


July-Mar. 




young canes. Do not head back as with 






Blackberries, or black Raspberries; suckers 






start too freely. Early Spring clip back ends 






of shoots so that ends are 30-36 in. long or do 






not prune if trained on trellis. 




Red Bud 




July 


Rhododendrons 


Remove oldest wood; remove ceed pods. 


July 


Rhodotypos kerrioides 


July 


RiBES (See Blackberries and 






Raspberries) 






Rose of Sharon 




Jan.-Mar. 


Snowball 


This is naturally a badly shaped shrub; prune 


July 


(Viburnum Opulus stenlis) 


to improve form. 




Snowberry 




Jan.-Mar 


Spiraea Van Houttei 


Remove old wood; shear off old seed cap- 


July 




sulcs. Cut away half the branches that 




have bloomed. 




_ 

SPIRiEA THUNBERGII 


In north the tips freeze; they need a little' 


July 




Spring pruning. Main pruning after flow- 






ering. 




Spir^as 


Thin them out in winter. Cut back shoots 


Jan.-Mar. 


(Summer-blooming) 


that have flowered. 


Staph ylea trifoliata 


Require only that old wood shall be removed. 


July 


Tamarix 


Prune hard back. 


Jan.-Mar. 


Varnish Tree 




(See Koelreuteria) 






Viburnum 


T 1 J TT 1_ 1 T> l_ A 10 1 11 

Includes Hoble Bush, Arrowwood, Snowball. 


July 


Weigela (diervilla) 


Cut out old wood. Remove seed vessels. 


July 


Wistaria 




July 


Witch Hazel 




July 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
chapter we recommend 

THE PRUNING MAN UAL, hyL. H.Bailey. This book, first published 
in 1 898, is now thoroughly revised and reset and appears in its eighteenth edition, 
with many new illustrations. The experiments of the last eighteen years have 
made changes in some of the conceptions of pruning, and these are incor- 
porated in the new treatment. The author remarks that pruning is much more 
than the cutting off of limbs and the shaping and training of plants. The 
practice really rests on a sound knowledge of the way in which plants grow 
and hmv they respond to treatment {and a person is not a horticulturist until 
he understands these questions and as well those of fertilizing, spraying and 
propagation. Secure this book where you bought your Garden Guide. 

Price, $2.65 postpaid. 



Always consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention it 
you do not use Index freely. 



CHAPTER XIX 



Plant Propagation 

Hardwood Cuttings — Soft-wooded Cuttings — Making Cuttings 
of Perennials — Leaf Cuttings — Root Cuttings — Division of Per- 
ennials — Seed Sowing: Perennials and Annuals — Vegetables — 
Starting Flowers Indoors — Shrub and Tree Seeds — Grafting — 

Budding — Layering 

(Readers who desire to fully inform themselves on this most fascinating of pursuits 
are advised to obtain a copv of "Commercial Plant Propagation," by Prof. A. C. Hottes. 
Obtainable where you bought your Garden Guide). 

WHY don't you propagate more of your plants and share your 
good ones with your neighbor? Nothing is more interesting 
than to get a sHp from a neighbor. Plants of this sort carry 
with them memories of your friend which add to the charm of the 
plant itself .§ By doing so you will add to the number of garden lovers. 

Hardwooded Cuttings 

People are afraid to cut up plants. They wish they had 
a whole hedge of a certain shrub instead of one plant. If that 
is true in your case, do this: In the Fall, cut up in six-inch 
lengths the good, strong, whip-Hke branches of such plants 
as Privet and Hydrangeas; tie them in bundles and either 
bury them in a sandy knoll, or place them in a box of sandy 
soil in the cellar. Absolutely cover them. Water them occa- 
sionally. By Springtime the wood will have healed over a bit 
at the base and the cuttings should 
then be placed in a well prepared 
soil so that only two buds are 
above ground. Climbing Roses, 
Grapes, Currants, Golden Bell, 
Spiraeas, Lilacs, Willows, Mock 
Orange, Dogwoods and Deutzias 
are quite easily propagated in this 
manner. Note the illustration; it 
shows how wood •should not be 
left above the top bud, and how 
the base of cuttings should be cut 
clean just below a bud*or|buds. 

AJhardwood If the leaVCS are 0n*the plant, cut a soft woodCrhrysanthemum) 
l(Currant) n «• cutting. Su( h cutting nay 

cutting tnem an OlI. be 3 in. long — the best size 

268 



If 

\ 





PLANT PRWPAGATION 



269 



Soft-wooded Cuttings 

You can easily multiply your shrubs and even Roses during the 
Summer if you will make slips, and be sure to get them short. Three 
inches is long enough. The slip should have a few leaves at top; the 
others should be removed. This type of cutting is called a soft-wooded 
cutting. Cuttings have no roots, no method of taking up food from 
the soil so that food stored in the stem and leaves which should produce 
roots is lost by evaporation if too much foliage remains on the cutting; 
if the leaves are large they are often trimmed smaller. The cuttings, 

when made, should 
be placed in a box 
of sand or directly 
in the soil if it is 
sandy. Put the cut- 
tings in rather deeply 
and firm them in very 
solidly. If there is a 
large glass jar or bell- 
glass handy, use it 
to cover those plants 
which you usually 
think are a little more 
difficult to root, such 
as Roses. But all 
cuttings, whether 




DahUa root, showing young shoots starting 
where to cut apart (c) 



and 



covered with glass 
or not should have 
a shading. A good 
place for the cuttings 
would be under the 
Grape vines where 
there is always ample 
shade. Water them 
thoroughly. Firm 
them in sand solidly, 
give them shade, and 
water carefully. Gut- 
tings of any sort 
should not be placed 
right where they are 
to grow. 




Jerusalem Artichoke tuber. Note the eyes; unlike 
those of the Dahlia they are on the tuber itself 



270 gardenLguide 

Making Cuttings of Perennials 
This sort of cutting can be made of hundreds of perennials. If 
you wish to increase your stock, merely take little slips in the Spring 
when the plants are six or seven inches tall. Be sure to leave a few 
buds below where the cutting is taken; it will not injure the plants in the 
least, but will cause them to become branchy. Choose wood that is 
a httle ripened. x 

Perennials which are readily propagated by cuttings are: 
Arabis Dahha Hollyhock Lotus 

Asclepias Eupatorium Iberis Perennial Sunflower 

Cerastium Helenium Larkspur Phlox 

Chrysanthemum Hesperis Lobelia Pink 

Clematis Heuchera Loosestrife Potentilla 

Leaf Cuttings 

^ Leaf cuttings are rarely made in the garden, but if some friend has 
given the reader^a slip of a Rex Begonia he may attempt to root it. 
Remove all but one leaf and oftentimes that leaf needs shortening. 
The leaves removed can be cut up in small pieces so that each piece 
has a portion of the heavy midrib at the base. When inserted in sand, 
several inches deep in a warm greenhouse, the base will root and a 
y6ung plant starts. 

Root Cuttings 

Root cuttings are interesting to make. Plants with rather thick 
roots can usually be propagated by this method. A box will be neces- 
sary for such propagation; it should be about three inches deep and 
nearly filled with a fight loam. The roots are cut into pieces an iuch 
and a half long, and are scattered over the surface of the soil and 
covered about one-half inch deep with fight soil. The box should then 
be placed in shade, watered and covered with a paper. In a short time 
shoots will start and the young plant can be transplanted to another 
location. The following plants can be propagated by this method: 
Polygonum, Euphorbia, Plumbago larpentae, Saponaria, CoroniUa 
varia, Achillea, Japanese Anemone. 

There are a number of perennials propagated by root cuttings 
which succeed better when the roots are planted perpendicularly with 
a fittle piece of the end protruding. They are usuaUy fleshy rooted 
sorts. Among the plants are: Itafian Borage (Anchusa), Plume 
Poppy (Bocconia cordata), Dodecatheon, Stokes' Aster (Stokesia 
cyanea). Bee Balm .(Monarda), perennial Phlox, Gaillardia, Gyp- 
sophila, Hefianthus rigidus, Thermopsis, Papaver, Statice, Bleeding 
Heart, Peony. Lfly of the Valley is increased by separating the pips 
or individual crowns. Among the vegetables, Horseradish is so 



PLANT PROPAGATION 



propagated. Scotch and Moss Roses, Galycanthus, Lilacs and Black- 
berries may all be propagated in this way. 

Division of Perennials 

Perhaps the commonest method of propagation of perennials and 
the one which is easiest, is the division of the clmnps, the main crowns 
being cut into a number of pieces. The plants should be divided very 
early in Spring before growth starts, or late in the Fall. This is the 
most used method of propagating Iris, Peonies and Phlox. German 
Iris should be so divided every three, Phlox every four, and Peonies 
every six or seven years, while Michaelmas Daisy, Achillea Ptarmica 
and millefohum roseum, Hehanthus, Cedum, some Veronicas, Ghrys- 
anthemums, (Enothera, and all perennials which sucker badly should 
be moved and divided every year. Artemisia, Boltonia, Campanula, 
Geum, Funkia, Doronicum, Armeria, Thalictrum are all propagated 
by division. 

SEED SOWING 
Perennials and Annuals from Seed 

If we possess coldframes and hotbeds we can sow many of the 
perennials in March and get them to bloom the same year. We can 
sow annuals also and have them of excellent size for setting in open 
ground. We may also sow perennials and annuals out of doors, in 
which case some will bloom the first year, but with others a longer time 
will be required. 

The following are a few of the perennials which will bloom the 
first year from seed: Gaillardia, Iceland Poppy, Chinese Larkspur 
(Delphinium chinense). Lychnis, Shasta Daisy, Platycodon.^ 

On the other hand, there are many perennials which wait a year 
before flowering, namely: Cardinal Flower, Golden Alyssum, Cam- 
panula, Aquilegia (Columbine), Foxglove, Loosestrife, Physostegia, 
Hollyhock, Sweet Rocket. 

The main advantage of growing perermials and annuals from seed 
is that it saves the cost of buying plants, which runs up pretty high 
when quantities of plants must be bought from nurseries. Many 
of the best varieties do not come true to seed, however, for seedlings 
often vary in color and habit. This is true especially of highly bred 
plants, hybrids which have resulted from the incorporation of several 
species. Peonies, Phlox, Iris and such perennials should be purchased, 
not raised from seed. 

Vegetables 

The hotbed or coldframe is more essential for the vegetable garden 
than it is for the flower, since we can get the crops so much earUer. 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Everything is so tender and as it seems out of season tastes so good that 
all the pains of regulating the hotbed are worth while. Lettuce can 
be matured in such structures and Tomatoes, Egg Plants, Beets, 
Onions, Muskmelons, and even Corn can be started. The space is 
valuable, so that careful planning is necessary to utilize every bit in the 
hotbed. (Hotbeds are discussed in a separate chapter.) Many persons 
will not have hotbeds, but will need to depend upon the windows for 
their early start. 

Starting Flowers Indoors 

There is always a danger in advising a very early st£lrt for sowing 
seeds indoors for the reason that the plants are apt to become very 
spindling owing to the diminished Ught most of us can supply plants 
in our houses. For the early Spring sowing we shall need to save the 
soil in the cellar. It should not be too rich but should be loose, made so 
by the addition of sand, coal ashes, or leaf mold. It should be in a fine 
condition. Small, shallow boxes, three inches deep, are best for seed 
sowing. The bottom should have a number of cracks and should be 
covered with some coarse drainage material, as broken crockery, sod 
or stones. The flats should be filled even full, then drills should be 
made, the depth varying according to the sort of seeds that are to be 
sown. A depth equal to twice the diameter of the seed is all that is 
necessary indoors. The reader is referred to the Garden Calendar 
(page 339) for the proper time to sow each vegetable or flower. The 
seed may be sown thinly, so that each seedling will have plenty of 
air and space. When sown, the seed should be covered and the soil 
firmed by the use of a board. After watering carefully with a fine 
spray, tl^e box should be covered with glass and a newspaper, 
and put in a suitable place for growth. Just as soon as the seeds have 
germinated the shading of paper should be removed so that the plant- 
ets may get the full light. 

Shrubs and Trees from Seed 

When the fruits of many of the trees and shrubs, as Regel's Privet, 
Hawthorns, Rhodotypos, Roses, Barberries, Boston Ivy, Euonymus, 
and Viburnums, are thoroughly ripe they should be gathered and so 
placed that the mass of berries wfll ferment a little. The pulp of the 
fruit can then be washed from the seeds. Boxes should then be pro- 
cm*ed in which a layer of sand is placed; the seeds are sown broadcast 
and covered by at least an inch of sand. The flats are watered thor- 
oughly and placed in the basement until February, when they are 
taken out of doors and aUowed to freeze. This is necessary to break 
their heavy coverings. This process is known as stratification; the 



PLANT PROPAGATION 



273 




Flower pot filled with soil 
and sand, the sand at the 
top. Soft wooded cuttings 
root most readily if placed 
around the edges of the 
pot. Seedlings trans- 
planted mav be placed 
similarly 



following shrubs should be so treated: Bar- 
berry, Sweet Shrub New Jersey Tea, Snow- 
drop Tree, Shadbush, Privet, Honeysuckle, 
Styrax, Snowberry, Indian Currant, Hawthorn 
and the Viburnums. When the ground is in 
condition for planting, sift the seeds from the 
sand and sow in rows. Planting should not be 
delayed or else the seeds will have sprouted 
and will be injured by the handHng at this 
time. They should then start rather readily. 

Tree seeds are treated the same as those of 
shrubs. Seeds which, though hard, will not 
stand freezing are often filed or nicked with 
a knife. The following tree seeds need to be 
placed in sand and frozen: Maples, Ailan- 
thus. Birch, Catalpa, Chestnut, Beech, Ash, 
Hickory, Butternut, Black Walnut, Locust, Basswood; and besides 
these are the fruit trees, namely: Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear, Plum. 
A number of tree and shrub seeds should be sown immediately 
after ripening. The principal ones are: Trees — Birch, Chest- 
nut, Elm, 
Hackberry, 
Horse-Chest- 
nut, Magno- 
lia, Maple, 
Oak, Poplar, 
Ptelia, Sweet \ 
Gum. Shrubs 
— Bayberry, 
Honeysuckle, 
Nemopan- 
thes, Rose , 
Spiraea. 

Seeds differ 
greatly in 
their germ- 
inating power. 
The White 
Oak germin- 
ates quickly, 
the Black Oak 
slowly. The 




Section of a typical Flower: p — Petal: 'The petals taken together 
are called the corolla, s — Sepal: Sepals taken togeth&r are called 
the calyx, st — Stamen: The male part of plant, fi — The filament 
or thread-like part of stamen, an — The filament or pollen producing 
part of stamen, pi — Pistil or female part of flower, sti — the stigma 
or part receiving the pollen, o — The ovary which bears the seeds, 
r — Receptacle, often helps to make up the fruit 



274 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Ash seed is rather oily and benefits by being treated to a weak 
acid bath. 

There are a number of reasons why seeds fail to germinate. They 
may have been immature when gathered. Pansy seed matures so 
that some of the seeds are ripe while others are not. Some seeds upon 
becoming too dry, are killed. Seeds have often been stored while moist 
and heating has resulted which killed the vital germ of growth; while 
still other have been injured by insects and fungi before or after ma- 
turing. 



Trees which belong to the same variety or species may be grafted. 
In other words, a Baldwin Apple may be grafted upon a Baldwin or any 
other Apple. Sometimes plants of different species but of the same 
genus may be grafted; other times this is not true. Apples may not 
usually be grafted upon Pears; yet Quinces (of the genus Cydonia) 
have Pears (Pyrus) grafted upon them to impart the dwarf habit. We 
could never expect Cherries on Pear trees, or red Raspberries on 
Grape vines, for it is only those plants which are very closely related 
that will allow grafting. 

We have seen, as in the preceding case, that Pears may be kept 
dwarf by working them upon the Quince stock. We may, likewise, 
increase the vigor of a variety by grafting it upon a stronger growing 
species. A famihar example of this is the grafting of certain Roses 





Cions for Cleft 
Grafting 



A B 
Cleft grafting 

A, The completed graft. B, Properly waxed. 
The methods of grafting are explained in 
the text on the following pages 



Grafting 



PLANT PROPAGATION 



275 



upon the Maiietli lloso. Many times plants arc grafted in order to 
render them more adaptable to adverse soils and climates. An example 
here is found in the case of Apples which are often grafted upon the 
Siberian Grab in order to render them better able to withstand intensely 
cold climates. [Sometimes'^ double grafting has to 
be practised especially with fme Pears, but that is a 
part of the subject we need not enter upon here. 

Girdled trees may be grafted with a bridge graft. 
In most cases, however, the process of grafting is used 
simply to multiply the variety. Baldwin 
Apples are wanted; they do not come 
true to seed; cuttings are slower; so 
that some form of grafting is used. 

When only a bud, instead of part of 
a shoot, is transferred, the process is 
called "budding." 

^There is a fundamental necessity in 
all grafting work: The layer just between 
the wood and bark, the line where the 
bark peels, of both stock and cion, must 
be in contact. The stock is the plant 
grafted upon; the cion (also spelled scion) 
is the shoot or graft that is inserted. 

Gleft or Gion Grafting. There are a 
number of simple sorts of cion grafting. 
The method most used upon trees in 
which the stock is over one inch in 
diameter is called cleft grafting. The 
branch of the stock which is to be 
grafted is cut off short. It is split 
through the center and the crack 
opened to receive a short cion. The 
cions are best cut during the Fall and stored through the Winter in 
moist sand, but they may be taken directly from the trees very early 
when the sap starts in the Spring but before the buds have burst. 
The best length is three buds long, the top bud being the top of the 
cion; the lower end is beveled at each side to form a perfect wedge 
as shown in the cut. This wedge must have the cut surfaces perfectly 
straight, not hollowed out, if the union is to be a good one. In inserting 
the cion two cambium rings must be together; this is the part between 
the bark and the wood. To be sure of this, slant the cion just a trifle. 
Then cover over the whole cut area with grafting wax. 




Whip or Tongue Grafting 

In grafting the stock and cion 
must be firmly bound around 
with broad raffia or other ligature. 
The above drawing is intended 
to show how to fix the graft, but 
the binding must cover the union 
thoroughly to exclude the air 



276 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Whip or tongue grafting is the next most common method. 
It is especially used upon small branches or for grafting seedlings. 
Apple sefidHngs may be nicely grafted by this method. Branches to 
be grafted must be nearly the same size. The stock should be beveled 
off with a long plane surface; the cion should be beveled the same way. 
Then each should be split so that the two tongues fit together nicely. 
Practice a bit upon some other wood and you will learn more by the 
experience than words can tell in description. As in all grafting, the 
layer between the bark and wood of each must be in contact on one 
side at least. This sort of grafting, like the former, should be done in 
Spring before growth starts. This graft may not be covered with wax, 
but merely tied fu-mly. A cord used for this 
purpose is usually No. 18 knitting cotton 
soaked in grafting wax. This is just strong 
enough to break when it should, before the 
branch is strangled. 

Budding 

The simplest method of budding is known 
as shield budding. It consists of placing a 
shield-shaped piece of bark bearing a bud, 
beneath the bark of the stock. A good, 
healthy, well budded branch is chosen; the 
buds are cut from it, holding the l)ranch 
upside down. A T-shaped cut is made in the 
stock near the base of the plant; the free 
edges are carefully peeled back and the bud 
inserted as shown in the cut. The budded 
stock is then tied with yarn or rafha so that 
the bud is held firmly; all should be covered 
except the bud. Budding may be employed 
whenever the bark peels nicely. 

Prof. U. P. Hedrick, the expert horticul- 
turist of the Geneva Experiment Station, 
gives the following dates for budding: Rose, 
July 1 to 10; Pear, July 10 to 15; Apple, 
July 15 to Aug. 1; Plum (St. JuHan stock), 
July 15 to Aug. 1; Plum (Myrobalan stock), 
Aug. 15 to Sept. 1; Cherry (Mazzard), July 
20 to Aug. 1; Cherry (Mahaleb), Aug. 20 to 
Sept. 1; Quince, July 25 to Aug. 15; Peach, 
Aug. 20 to Sept. 10. 




The budding of Roses 

1. Rose shoot showing 
where bud should be cut 

out (see dotted line.) 
2 and 3. Buds as prepared 
for insertion, No. 2 having 
ths wood removed behind 
the eye. 

4. T-shaped cut in shoot. 

5. Eye inserted in shoot 
prior to binding. 

6. Shoot when bound up. 
Raffia is used and only the 

bud is left exposed 



PLANT PROPAGATION 



277 




Mound layering of Gooseberries. 

Note that the shoots have been cut back previous 
to mounding the soil about the plants; each shoot 
is rooting nicely 



Layering 

This is the placing of 
some portion of a branch 
in contact with the 
soil so that it may root. 
It is a very convenient, 
perfectly simple and cer- 
tain, method of increas- 
ing many plants. Grape 
canes, for instance, 
are merely bent down 
and a node or two 
covered with soil. They 
root readily and the 
new plants can soon be 
separated from the old 
one. 

In another type of 
layering suited to Goose- 
berries and many ornamentals, a bush is mounded so that each shoot 
roots, making from five to twenty-five young plants instead of one. 
After they are well rooted the plant can be divided and each part will be 
a separate plant. Strawberry runners are natural 
or voluntary layers. Enough of them can be 
left to start a new bed to take the place of the 
old one. Raspberries are propagated by bend- 
ing down their tips and covering with soil. The 
tips root, and the resulting new plants may be 
transplanted. 
Tomato 
stems root 
nicely when 
they touch 
the soil, and 
Squash stems 
may be en- 
couraged to 
root at sev- 
eral places 
by covering 
their joints. 




Mel hod of layering a woody or 
a Khododendron ov a Carnation. 



half-woody plan,"as for instance, 
a, Slit or tongue^cut^ half way 



through the stem; b, Pebble to keep slit open; c, Peg for holding 
down the layer; d, A stake to keep the shoot firm 



CHAPTER XX 



Transplanting 

Basic Principles^Transplanting Seedlings — Transplanting to 
Open Ground — ^What and What Not to Transplant — Transplanting 
Shrubs and Small Trees — Frozen Ball Method of Transplanting — 
Transplanting Fruit Trees — Moving Large Trees — Operations 
Resembling Transplanting 

THE operation of transplanting is, first of all, a means of saving, 
time in gardening. Whether it is the setting out of a Tomato 
plant started indoors vreeks before seed could have been sown 
outside, or the moving of a 30-foot tree to produce an effect that would 
otherwise have^ taken as many years to*^achieve, the time element is 
the important factor.^ Of course there'^are other reasons for trans- 
planting. One may desire to rearrange his garden plan; it may be 
necessary to thin out an overcrowded stand of perennials (and inci- 
dentally secure a supply of new plants) ; the object may be to establish 
specimens raised and obtained elsewhere, as in a nursery, the open 
fields or a woodlot. Again, as in the case of Celery, evergreens and 
other materials, transplanting induces a compact, fibrous root system 
which means both thrifty plants and, in the case of nursery grown 
stock, easier and safer transplanting when sold. But in every case the 
most notable result is the saving of weeks, months, or even years that 
would have been required to produce the same effect by waiting on 
Nature or from the sowing , of seed. And oftentimes, of course, the 
latter program is impossible for the amateur or small gardener. 

Basic Principles 

There are certain basic principles common to all the different kinds 
or classes of transplanting. These may be listed as follows: 

1. Keep the roots from drying out. 

2. Injure the feeding root system as little as possible. 

3. Balance unavoidable root disturbance and reduction of the ab- 
sorb tion area by reducing the transpiring (leaf) area of the plant. 

4. Prepare the soil thoroughly; firm it securely around the newly 
set place, and do not let it dry out while the plant is getting established 
in its new location. 

These rules apply, with very slight modifications, to transplanting 

activities of all kinds. This should be kept in mind as we discuss the 

detailed methods of handling (lifferent classes of plants, even though 

each rule may not be specifically referred to in each case. On the 

278 



% 



TRANSPLANTING 



279 



other hand, if they are strictly adhered to and conscientiously followed, ' 
there is almost no limit to the extent to which successful transplanting 
can be carried. As an instance, the writer recalls the moving of some 
shrubs — Lilac, Mock Orange, Spiraea, etc., on the occasion of the pur- 
chase of a suburban property in mid-Spring, just when the plants were 
in bloom. It seemed almost ridiculous to try to transplant them, but 
the attempt was made. Moreover, as a result of wetting the ground 
thoroughly before digging the shrubs, keeping the root systems 
wrapped in wet burlap, rushing the plants to their new location by 
automobile, having the holes ready and the new soil moist, and 
keeping the earth from drying out at any time thereafter, the attempt 
was entirely successful. The plants were established with little if any 
check; indeed some of them did not show so much as a wilted blossom 
after twelve hours in their new location. Of course, success of that sort 
means lots of care and effort, but it is good to know what can be 
accomplished when the need arises and one is willing to take trouble. 

Transplanting Seedlings 

The first transplanting of vegetable or flower seedlings started in 
a pot, pan or flat is termed * 'pricking out," and should be done as soon 
as the first pair of true leaves appear. Before this the seedlings are 
likely to be too delicate to handle; if left much longer in crowded rows 
they are likely to become spindly and weak. 

Several hours before pricking out, wet the soil in the flat and that 
into which the plants are to go; they are more easily removed from 
moist soil, more of which will cling to the root hairs. Lift out small 
bunches of the seedlings with a small stick or trowel — a small, diamond- 
shaped mason's trowel is excellent — separate them gently with the 
fingers, holding them by the leaves, and reset them an inch or so apart 
each way. Make a hole for each plant with a small dibble or skewer, 
let the seedling stand about as deep as it was before, and press the soil 
well around the roots with the fingers. When all are planted, the flat 
or bed may be gently sprinkled until the soil is quite moist, and then 
slightly shaded if the sun is hot and shines full upon it. 

Whenever possible it is desirable to transplant such seedlings a 
second time before setting them out in their permanent locations. This 
shift should be done when their leaves begin to overlap and should 
leave them about four inches apart each way. In the case of Egg Plant, 
which sufl*ers if its roots are much disturbed, or any plants for which 
special care is desired, this second shift should be into small pots or old 
berry boxes. The latter and'^the various kinds of paper pots can later 
be set directly in the field or'gardeii without removing the plants which 
will soon send their roots out through the cracks or through the'paper 



280 



GARDEN GUIDE 



as it rots away. When pots are not used, this second transplanting 
usually injures the root system more or less, so it is well to pinch off 
about half the leaf surface of each seedling as it is set out. 

Whenever Cabbage, Tomato, Pepper or other plants that are 
attacked by cutworms are set outdoors, it is well to wrap a paper collar 
around the stem of each one. This should extend about an inch above 
and an inch below the surface of the ground. Another type of cutworm 
preventer is a disc of tough paper (tarred roofing paper is good) slit 
to the center and slipped around the stem of the plant close to the 
ground. An additional precaution that is especially worth while in 
the case of Lettuce, is to cover each newly set out plant with an old 
berry box or some kind of commercial plant protector or shade. This 
will tend to prevent severe wilting and a resulting check; but whatever 
is used, be sure to provide for ventilation through or under it. 

Transplanting to the Open Ground 

Whether you have raised your plants from seed or have bought 
pot grown stock from a nurseryman or plantsman, the details of setting 
out both vegetables and ornamentals are the same. In the small garden 
it is usually possible to arrange or wait for conditions that are just about 
right. A damp, cloudy day is best, especially if there is good chance 
of a rainstorm before long. Otherwise wait till the cool of the evening 
so that the plants may have the night in which to get over the shock 
of being moved — for it is a shock — and then, if the next day is clear and 
hot, shade them slightly. 

In planting Strawberries it is customary to trim the roots off 
evenly about six inches long, as well as part of the tops. This gives a 
thick, uniform bunch of fibrous roots that are easily handled and 
quickly inserted into an opening made in the soil with a thrust of spade. 
. This is good practice with any fibrous-rooted plant that stands trans- 
planting well, but there are many sorts with which the less root dis- 
turbance the better. In moving these, prepare the hole, invert the 
pot, holding the stem of the plant between the first two fingers, tap 
the rim of the pot against any hard object and place the root ball in 
the hole with the slightest possible loss of soil; then fill the hole with 
water and let it soak in before replacing the soil. The final step is to 
leave a slight depression around the plant so that surface water will run 
in toward the roots, rather than away from them as it would from a 
mounded up surface. If the soil is heavy and tends to bake, sprinkle 
a little loose, dry earth around the plant as a mulch to prevent exces- 
sive evaporation. 

In this connection a hint in regard to packing growing plants for 
shipment may not be out of place. If they are to go any distance and 



TRANSPLANTING 



^81 



be out of the soil for any considerable time, do not soak the soil or try 
to keep it wet during the trip. On the contrary, have it only normally 
moist, wrap the plants (singly or in small bunches) snugly in slightly 
Moistened newspaper, tie each package and pack all together in a 
paper or burlap lined basket . Later , when you have set them all out , and 
not till then, give the plants a good drink. *This method gives them 
much less of a shock than the commoner one of soaking them first, 
then having them often dry out in transit and suffer all the more by 
contrast. 

After setting out plants, as with all growing crops, water 
copiously when they need it and cultivate between times. Do not 
sprinkle lightly every little while, as the plants do not absorb moist- 
ure through the leaves, and a shallow wetting of the soil only at- 
tracts the roots up toward the surface where the first real drought 
often kills some of them . 

What and What Not to Transplant 

There are but few herbaceous plants that cannot be transplanted 
if taken young enough and handled with sufficient care. Galandrina 
and annual Poppies are typical exceptions. Among flowers which 
suffer if allowed to become too large before being moved are Migno- 
nette, Nasturtium, Bartonia, Candytuft, Gentaurea, Glarkia, annual 
Dianthus, California Poppy, Godetia, annual Larkspur, Lupine, Ni- 
gella, annual Rudbeckia, Viscaria and, in fact, almost all of the quick- 
growing annuals. Perennials and plants of the "bedding" sorts may be 
moved with relative ease and assurance of success. 

Practically the same -thing holds true with vegetables, but, except 
for Lettuce, there is rarely need or desire to transplant the quick- 
growing annuals. Beets, Garrots and even Radishes can be shifted 
while very small, but it rarely pays to take the trouble. All the cu- 
curbits — Melons, Squash, Cucumbers, etc., are almost sure to be 
injured by transplanting unless started in berry boxes or pieces of 
inverted sod which can be set out without disturbing the roots, and 
Corn and Peas are rarely if ever shifted except upon a very small scale. 
Tomato, all members of the Cabbage family. Celery and Peppers 
transplant readily and are generally so handled both commercially 
and in the home garden. 

Transplanting Shrubs and Small Trees 

As far as general transplanting methods are concerned, these two 
classes of plants may be considered together. As with practically all 
plants other than herbaceous, they are generally moved while 
dormant although, as noted above, success may result from Spring 



£8£ 



GARDEN GUIDE 



or Summer moving if sufficient care is given. For evergreens the former 
practice of transplanting only in August and early September is still 
recommended by some, but the dormant system especially that in- 
volving the frozen ball of roots, is quite in common use. 

The success with which shrubs are moved depends largely upon 
their root systems; nurs^y grown stock that has been transplanted 
at least once has a more bushy, compact root system than wild field 
grown specimens and is therefore more satisfactorily transplanted. 
Likewise plants with a shallow, spreading root habit are easier to 
handle than tap-rooted or fleshy-rooted sorts, such as the Walnuts, 
Hickories, Magnolias, etc. Taking first the ordinary dormant system, 
the essential steps are about as follows: 

Upon receipt of plants from the nursery leave them wrapped un- 
less a delay of several days must elapse before they are set out; in this 
case unpack and heel them in, in a somewhat shaded place where the 
roots will keep moist. 

At planting time cut off clean all injured roots and trim back any 
excessively long ones. 

Have the hole big enough to take the root system without crowd- 
ing. Straighten the roots out as naturally as possible when the plant 
is placed in the hole. 

Let the tree or shrub set about an inch deeper than it set before 
except in the case of a hedge, when the plants should be set four to 
six inches deeper in order to develop a thick, much branched base. 

Fill in first with the top soil taken from the hole; then add the bot- 
tom soil mixed with manure if possible; finish ofi" with more top soil if 
any is left. 

Firm the soil thoroughly, working it in among the small roots. 
Water the plant well before filling the hole completely. 

Cut back the top to balance the root pruning and also to shape 
the head of the shrub or tree. 

When all is finished, mulch with loose soil, coarse manure, or other 
litter. If severe drought ensues, water well every few days. 

In the case of trees taken from the semi-shade of a nursery and 
set out in early Spring, a wrapping of straw around the trunks for the 
first season may prevent destructive sunburn and bark cracking as a 
result of the intense, bright sunHght. 

When moved any time except in Winter, broad-leaved evergreens 
should have a good part of their leaves stripped off to check evapora- 
tion, and thus aid the plants in getting settled. This is not necessary 
if the plants are moved with a frozen ball of earth. 



TRANSPLANTING 



283 



Special Hints Concerning Conifers 

A successful specialist in evergreens makes the following valuable 
suggestions as to the handhng of trees of this class that have been 
dug — as is almost invariably the case — ^with a ball of earth: 

"Where the ball is natural and has not been niade artificially, 
the soil about the roots should be left undisturbed . It is not even neces- 
sary to remove the burlap. If, however, the tree has been dug with the 
roots bare and then dipped in a clay puddle and then a ball has been 
made in an artificial manner by pressing the soil into ball form and 
bending and twisting the roots, the soil must certainly be removed at 
time of planting. 

"All small and medium sized conifers we dig with a natural ball 
and these should be planted without breaking the ball. With trees 
above five or six feet, we dig around the roots and work in toward the 
trees with a spading fork. We remove the soil from the entire root 
system around the side of the ball until we have a reasonable size ball 
still remaining. The roots are all gathered up and wound around the 
ball, which is burlapped securely when the tree is ready for shipping. 
In the case of this style of treatment it is necessary to remove the burlap 
and set out the roots in their natural position." 

The Frozen Ball Method of Transplanting 

Although this method is employed in the case of large ^trees as well 
as small ones and shrubs, it is with the latter classes that the private 
garden owner has to do; when a large tree is to be moved he sends for 
the professional tree mover— if he is wise. This operation begins the 
Summer or even the year before it is desired to transplant the tree. 
At this time a trench is dug around the specimen about the width of a 
spade, deep enough to cut all the main roots, and far enough from the 
trunk to insure a good mass of earth around it. If the tree has a tap 
root this should be cut with a sharp spade or sod cutter thrust in hori- 
zontally under the root ball. 

The trench should then be filled with loose earth, manure or fitter 
of any sort. When Winter comes and the ground is frozen hard so 
that the entire root ball can be moved, the trench is again carefully 
opened up and the mass of roots and soil lifted out and taken to the new 
location which should have been prepared before the ground froze. 
The next Spring when it softens up fu:m the soil well and add enough 
to fill up the hole about level full. 

As a rule no shade or protection is called for by shrubs or small 
trees. However, evergreens are sometimes covered with damp burlap 
or heavy paper to check the evaporation that would otherwise occur 



^84 



GARDEN GUIDE 



under a strong, bright sun. In addition to the trunming given to 
balance the root injury, now is a good time to cut out any dead branches 
and clean up the shape and condition of the specimen. 

Transplanting Fruit Trees 

This operation is practically the same as that described for shrubs 
except that as fruits are rarely moved when large, the dormant, early 
Spring or late Fall method is the one most commonly used. It is at 
these times that fruit trees are shipped from the nurseries. The 
pruning of newly set fruit trees is generally more severe than that of 
shrubs or ornamentals as it is usually desirable to determine the form 
and arrangement of the head at this time. This means cutting back 
the main stem, removing all the side branches but three or four sym- 
metrically arranged around it so that they will not develop weak 
crotches, and cut these back to a length of six inches or so. Peaches, 
according to one system of training, are cut back to a single, branch- 
less stem or "whip" when planted. 

Another important point in planting fruit trees is their correct 
alignment. Of course this is more important in a large orchard than 
in the home fruit garden, but even here straight, evenly spaced rows 
make a good appearance; moreover they permit the most economical 
use of the space. The place where each tree should stand must there- 
fore be accurately located either by sighting through a transit or farm 
level, or by careful measuring, then the tree must be set right there. 
One of the best ways to assure this result is to use a planting board. 
This is a plank about five feet long and a few inches wide with three 
notches cut into it along one side — one near either end and one in the 
middle. When the spot for each tree is located and marked with a 
stake, the board is placed with the center notch against the first stake 
and two other pins are stuck in the ground where the other notches are. 
The board and the central peg are then removed and the hole dug 
without removing the two guide stakes. When it is deep enough the 
board is placed back against the two pegs, the tree placed in the hole 
and its trunk placed in the center notch just where the locating peg 
originally stood. By keeping the tree in this position until the hole is 
filled it is assured of its exact place. 

In some parts of the country transplanted fruit trees have to be 
protected against the depredations of field mice, rabbits, etc., that 
gnaw the bark off the trunks. This is best done by encircling each tree 
with a guard or protector of thin wood veneer, wire netting or stiff 
building paper, although there are various old recipes for whitewashes 
and evil-smelhng mixtures of mud, manures, carbolic acid, etc., 
designed to repel attacking rodents. 



TRANSPLANTING 



285 



Moving Large Trees 

As already suggested this is really a task for professionals who 
have the necessary trucks, tackles, and experience. It is necessary 
only to explain that unless they use the frozen bal) method, they 
usually go about the digging very gradually and systematically, be- 
ginning well away from the tree, lifting the roots carefully and picking 
out the soil from the fibrous masses. They then separate the long main 
roots, wrap each in burlap and tie them up to the trunk out of the way. 
When the tree is loose in the hole it is tipped onto and tied to a low- 
hung wagon or a drag and hauled to its new position where the roots 
are spread out as naturally as possible. 

Of course the soil must be replaced with great care; also the tree 
must be well braced and guyed until it takes hold and secures itself in 
its new berth. There is an old belief held to by many that a trans- 
planted tree will not live unless it is set in the same position with refer- 
ence to the points of the compass as it stood before. Often this can be 
provided for by noting where the moss or greenish tinge, that is usually 
present on the north side of a tree trunk, is to be found. We are not 
prepared to say whether this theory has a proved scientific basis or not. 

Fall Planting Opportunities 

Many people have a curious notion that the Spring is the only 
natural planting time. The truth is that experience has shown that 
this is one of the best seasons for the home maker to set out trees and 
shrubs. For one thing, work presses less heavily in the Autumn. 
There are fewer things to do in the flower and vegetable gardens, with 
the result that more time is left to devote to the care of the trees and 
shrubbery, without which no suburban or country home is complete. 
Then, too, the nurserymen themselves are less rushed in the Fall and 
are able to give more careful attention to the orders which they receive. 
All things considered, therefore, there is no better time to transplant 
most ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as Raspberries, Blackberries, 
Currants, and many of the fruit trees. 

There are some exceptions. Most of the trees which have stone 
fruits, such as both the edible and ornamental Peaches and Cherries, 
are better left until Spring in the colder section of the country, although 
they are planted to some extent in the Fall. There are ornamentals, 
too, with soft, fleshy roots, such as the Magnolias, which it is best not 
to plant at this season. The average nurseryman will frankly tell 
which trees are not suitable for Fall setting. 

When shrubs and trees are set out in the Fall, they make growth 
quickly in the Spring and often are much farther along at the end of 



286 



GARDEN GUIDE 



the season than when planting is left imtil the Spring months, particu- 
larly if the Spring is a late one, so that planting has to be delayed. 
One other point in favor of Fall planting might be mentioned, although 
it applies especially to perennial plants. At this time the garden 
maker has a hvely recollection of the appearance which the different 
plants have made when in bloom, and is therefore able to choose those 
which he would Hke for his own garden much more intelligently than 
he could four or five months later when his remembrance of the past 
Smnmer's experiences will have become dulled. 

Some writers have asserted that the Fall is not a good time to 
set out evergreens, but on the other hand, some of the most expert 
nurserymen and garden makers declare that the results from Fall 
setting are fully as good, if not better. In a year of heavy rainfall, the 
planting of evergreens can be done with perfect safety. In seasons of 
drought, of course, no plants can be put in with assurance unless a 
large amount of moisture is available to be applied artificially. 

One reason why so much difficulty is found in transplanting ever- 
greens of any kind from the woods or t£e fields to the garden is because 
of the damage which is unavoidably done to the root system. Plants 
growing wild make very long roots which must be broken off in getting 
them out of the ground. Nursery planted stock, on the other hand, 
is usually shifted so often that the roots are short and bunched in a 
sohd mass close to the base of the plant. This greatly facihtates trans- 
planting without giving the trees or shrubs a setback, and is the prin- 
cipal reason why nursery grown stock is preferable for transplanting to 
that which is found growing wild. 

Operations Resembling Transplanting 

Not greatly different from transplanting is the division method of 
propagation of herbaceous perennials discussed elsewhere. In this, 
the clump or crown of Iris, Rhubarb, Phlox, etc., is dug up, cut into 
several pieces with a sharp spade or knife — being sure that each piece 
carries an eye — then each piece is replanted in newly enriched and 
well-prepared soil. 

There is also "heeling in," which might be called a transplanting 
into temporary quarters when it is necessary to delay setting some 
plants for awhile. To do this dig a wide but shallow trench with one 
end gently sloping; against this lay a row of the plants. Sprinkle ' 
some soil over their roots, then lay another overlapping layer on them 
shingle fashion. Continue in this way till all have been packed in, 
compactly but^with^their roots completely covered with soil. Fruit 
trees, shrubs, berry Jbushes, etc., can be kept this way all Winter if 



TRANSPLANTING 287 



they arrive too late in the Fall to be set out; or for several weeks in the 
Spring if delivered before satisfactory conditions for planting appear. 
Of course the soil in and on top of the trench must be kept moist in 
very dry weather. 

Finally, we may consider sodding, which is practically the trans- 
planting of grass. The main object in doing this well is, of course, to 
get a strip of strong sod of uniform width and thickness. Success will 
depend largely upon having a good turf underlain with a good clean 
soil free from stone, to cut from. Strips a foot wide and any desired 
length are first cut with a grass edger or path trimmer. One man then 
cuts the strip loose by sliding a spade or regular sodding tool under it, 
while a second man rolls the strip tightly toward him. As a rule 
pieces two and a half to three feet long are most convenient to handle. 
As in all transplanting, the soil should be slightly moist for best results. 
The ground to be sodded should be carefully prepared and the soil fined 
and made perfectly smooth and slightly higher than would seem 
necessary. Next lay the strips of sod, butting them tightly together 
and adding or removing soil beneath wherever this is necessary to pro- 
duce a smooth surface. Fill any cracks or breaks with fine soil and 
when a considerable area is sodded go over it and pound it down finnly 
with the back of a flat-bladed spade. A heavy tamper may also be used 
or a lawn roller, provided the latter is not permitted to move or loosen 
the sod. WTien thoroughly firmed, water the new grass plot well, 
soak it in fact, and keep up a program of rolling, watering and cutting 
as required until it is well established. Bare spots should be treated 
to a dusting of grass seed . 

Here again we find of most importance the fundamental sugges- 
tions or precautions back of all transplanting: Disturb the roots as 
little as possible' (that is, cut the sod as deep as you can conveniently 
handle it). Do not expose the roots to the sun and drying wind a 
moment' longer than absolutely necessary. Firm the soil thoroughly 
after transplanting (in this, case by beating with a spade) . Water 
promptly'and^abundantlyVhenever'necessary, and refrain from'sprink- 
ling'in between.^" Trim back the top growth to balance the unavoidable 
injury to the feeding root system (by having the grass cut short before 
cutting the sod and keeping it trimmed after it is in place) . 



CHAPTER XXI 



Winter Protection 

Leaf Coverings — Protecting Lilies and Roses — Windbreaks for 
Trees and Shrubs — Covering Tender Plants — Facts About Frost 

THAT plants or shrubs may withstand the cold, we protect them; 
but it is mainly to shield them from the Winter sun. Some 
plants may be heaved from the soil by frosts; when thoroughly 
protected such heaving does not take place. 

Many of the perennials are benefited by a protection in Winter. 
The sort of protection perennials need is one which will shield them 
from Winter and earliest Spring suns, which start the plants into 
growth only to be frozen again when the sun has set. This alternate 
freezing and thawing is the main cause of Winter injury to shrubs as 
well as perennials. The proper protection, then, is a light layer of 
straw or manure or leaves applied after the tops have been killed by 
frost. 

Leaf Coverings 

It is usually better to wait until the ground is a little frozen before 
applying the Winter mulch. It prevents a premature start in Spring, 
due to a sHght heating caused by fermentation. Perennials which 
retain their leaves through the Winter, as well as biennials and Sweet 
William, Heuchera and many others, are best covered with straw or 
leaves, but not manure, which often disfigures the foliage due to its 
decay. An excellent method, however, is to cover the beds with 




Straw or Reed Mats 

It is a fairly easy matter tormanufacture a good.fstcut reed irat cr straw mat forfpro- 
tective purposes. A ball of stout[cord and the necessary material for thamat; a little 
dexterity in binding these into bundles ard in twislirg the cord, asl&hown in the draw- 
ing, is all^that are necessary. [These mats can be|put to a dozen good uses. Supplied 

also by the seedhouses 

288 



WINTER PROTECTION 



289 




PF Another Form of Winter Protection 

The ordinary coldframe, especially if covered with mats in hard weather, is sufficient 
shelter for all that class of plants which are spoken of as "doubtfully hardy." Parsley 
can be Wintered here; Violets can be grown and flowered in deep frames; tender Roses 
and shrubs for placing out of doors in Summer can find a place 



evergreen boughs and then' place leaves upon these, in which case the 
leaves are prevented from matting. Leaves which mat together 
badly, as Elm, Maple, and other trees which drop their foliage early, 
are not as valuable as Oak. Coverings which are too thick cause a 
premature start in Spring, resulting in crippled growth because of the 
late frosts. 

Unless the perennials are diseased the tops may remain during 
the Winter; breaking or cutting them off often exposes the growing 
points. 

Protecting Lilies and Roses 

For protecting Lilies a mound of ashes, placed over the crown, is 
frequently advised. The Tiger, the Canada, the Coral, the^Handsome, 
the Thunbergian, and the Turk's Cap can be successfully protected in 
this manner. We have had occasion before to mention the protection 
of Eremurus, which consists of usiag a deep box filled with leaves and 
left over the plants till rather late in the season, otherwise the young 
shoots will be injured in the Spring. 

Then there are the Roses. When rosarians get together they dis- 
cuss varieties for a time; then the question usually arises: "What 
do you use for protecting your RosesP" "Well," says one, "I beUeve 
that a protection for Roses should be merely a sunshade, not an 
overcoat, so I. just turn a box over the tops of the plants. They 
always Winter as well that way as any other." "They really need 
some protection from the cold," says another, "and I think the only 
way to protect Roses is to mound up all the Teas and Hybrid Teas so 
that the soil is almost a foot deep all around them." The third 
gentleman says that the protection afforded by something placed on 



290 



GARDEN GUIDE 



their stems, such as rye straw, is best, although paper is an excellent 
insulator against the cold. Climbers are well protected by laying them 
down and covering them with evergreens or wrapped in burlap. Any 
sort of frame packed with leaves is a trifle dangerous, for the leaves 
are apt to ferment and cause the young shoots to start prematurely. 
Many persons dig their Teas each Fall and store in coldframes, which 
usually keeps them perfectly but is rather troublesome. 

Windbreaks for Trees and Shrubs 

For many trees and shrubs a windbreak will be the proper sort 
of shelter from the drying .winds of Winter. Trees are apt to be 
injured in Winter by the loss of water by evaporation from the twigs; 
this cannot be supplied by the frozen roots, and the plant dies. Tem- 
porary fences may be erected of boards or Cornstalks which will 
give the required break to the full sweep of the wind. Such protection 
is placed on the south side of broad-leaved evergreens to shield them 
from the Winter sun. The branches of either deciduous or evergreen 
trees should be tied up when the trees are somewhat columnar and 
are susceptible to breaking by wind or snow. This is especially neces- 
sary with Irish Juniper. 

Tender plants and newly set trees, evergreens and others, are 
successfully protected by tying them together and covering with 
Hemlock boughs. Other trees and shrubs are covered deeply so that 
the roots do not freeze, in which case many are encouraged to grow 
under adverse conditions. 

It is the alternate freezing and thawing of the trunk and branches 
of fruit trees that causes them to crack open on the south side. Low 
heading is the only precaution. 

Facts About Frost 

The Weather Bureau recognizes three degrees of frost — lights 
when the tenderest vegetation, such as Peppers, Melons, Egg Plant, 
Beans, Hehotrope, Coleus, Nasturtium and Salvia, is injured; heavy , 
when the hardier sorts are damaged and the tender ones quite destroyed; 
and killing, when the staple crops of the region are killed. 

In the garden the first type is commonly the most disastrous 
because it comes with the least warning and occurs early in the Fall 
and late in the Spring when the gardener is off his guard. Moreover, 
the first Fall frost is usually followed by some weeks of fine, mild 
weather during which even the tender plants, if they had been pro- 
tected during the cold snap, might have continued to grow, blossom 
and ripen fruit. 



WINTER PROTECTION 



291 



Notwithstanding the claims of so-called ''weather sharks," it is 
impossible to consistently forecast local frost without systematic 
knowledge of conditions over a wide area. It is far better to rely on 
the experienced, scientifically worked out predictions of the Weather 
Bureau reinforced by a knowledge of the conditions that are favorable 
to frost occurrence. Then when frost warnings are issued one can 
judge whether or not precautions are essential in his immediate 
locality. 

Conditions That Suggest Frost 

1. Weather comes in "waves," hence an abnormally warm spell 
during the frost season is liable to be followed by a sudden drop in 
temperature. 

2. A clear sky permits increased radiation and improves the 
chances of frost. 

3. The passing of a storm is usually followed by "clearing and 
colder," which often means a frost. 

4. A still, clear air with a steadily falling temperature in the late 
afternoon is a good sign of frost. 

5. Frosts are more likely to occur in the open country and in 
small villages than in and near large cities; they occur on lowlands and 
in "pockets" and valleys sooner than on hillsides; they are less frequent 
near bodies of water than away from lakes, the ocean, etc.; northern, 
western, eastern and southern slopes are frosty in decreasing order as 
given; sandy, well drained, and dark colored soils are less liable to 
frost than heavy clays and wet, poorly tilled, Hght colored types. 

To Ward Off Frost 

Since frosts accompany dry, clear, still air and the radiation of 
heat from the ground and plants, the following methods of preventing 
them can be employed in the small garden according to the means at 
hand: (1) Heating of the air by means of smudge fires, orchard 
heaters, etc.; (2) the moistening of the air by means of sprays; (3) 
a combination of (1) and (2), such as the discharge of waste steam into 
the air; (4) ventilation, or the stirring of the atmosphere, to prevent the 
settling of layers of cold air on the plants; (5) irrigation by the furrow or 
flooding system; (0) the covering of tender plants with cloths, paper, a 
mulch, etc.; (7) the spraying of the plants themselves both to prevent 
the formation of frost and to help thaw out hardy plants that may have 
been touched overnight. 



292 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Fall Treatment of Plants with Reference to Frost 

Vegetables. — Perennials, such as Asparagus, Horse Radish, 
Jerusalem Artichoke and Strawberries are entirely hardy. It is, 
however, well to mulch them after the ground freezes, partly to prevent 
alternate thawing and freezing, which tend to heave them out of the 
ground, and partly to add plant food to be dug in in the Spring. 

Annuals may be put into four groups with relation to their 
ability to withstand frost, as follows: 

1. Entirely hardy. Those marked a may be sown or planted in 
late Fall for early Spring lise. The rest may be left in the garden to 
be harvested as needed. For convenience it is well to mulch the root 
crops to make digging easier: Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Corn Salad 
(a). Kale, Leek, Parsnips, Salsify, Witloof Chicory (a) , Spinach (may 
be handled both ways). 

2. Hardy. These will stand a light freeze but should be harvested 
before the ground freezes sohd. In the case of frosted Lettuce, thaw 
out slowly in ice water and use at once. Carrots, Lettuce, Onions, 
Peas, Rutabagas. 

3. Hairiy hardy. These will stand a Hght frost and do their best 
in cool weather: Beets, Cabbage, Cardoon, Cauliflower. Celery, Celery 
Cabbage (Pe-tsai), Kohl-Rabi, Potatoes, Radishes, Swiss Chard. 

4 . Practically all other vegetables need warm weather in which 
to make good growth, and protection from even the lightest frost. 

Flowers. Perennials are, of course, hardy as to root, even 
though their tops may be killed down. The following, however, 
continue to bloom well after the first frost: Chrysanthemum, Gail- 
lardia grandiflora, Antirrhiniun majus. Coreopsis lanceolata, Lathyrus 
latifoUus. 

Annual sorts growing from bulbs tliat are hardy and that therefore 
can be planted in the Fall for Spring blooming, include: Lilies, Crown 
Imperial, Hyacinth, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, Scilla, Tulips. 

Narcissus for best results should be dug after flowering and allowed 
to ripen before being replanted in the Fall. 

Plants with tender bulbs which should be dug after frost has 
killed or blackened the tops but before the ground freezes, include the 
following: Begonia (Tuberous), Caladium, Calla, Dahlia, Gladiolus, 
Tritoma, Tuberose. 

Of non-bulbous annuals whiih are not expected to last more 
than one season, there are some that continue to bloom even after a 
mild frost. Among these are Aster, Cosmos, Sweet Alyssum, Clarkia, 
Marigold, Pansy, Ten- Weeks Stock, etc. 



CHAPTER XXII 

Some Insect Pests of Cultivated Plants 

By W. E. Brixton 

State Entomologist, Agricultural Experiment Station, New Haven, Conn. 

The Life of an Insect — Spraying Equipment — Materials Used 
to Control Insect Pests — Fumigants — Insect Pests Arranged 
1^ by Host Plants 

^BttAHERE is scarcely a crop grown which is not attacked and injured by 
I insects. It has been estimated that at least one-tenth of all crops 
^ ^ in the United States is destroyed each year by insects. This total 
damage amounts to fully $1,000,000,000.00 annually. 

This article has been prepared so that the amateur may have a simple 
guide at hand for convenient reference. A part of the material and illus- 
trations have appeared in the Spray Calendar published by the Connecti- 
cut Agricultural Experiment Station, and are here printed, by permission, 
in somewhat different form. 

The Life of an Insect 

Insects are very abundant and occur everywhere. Though some are 
called injurious because they attack and injure or destroy plants or plant 
materials, or infest animals which man has raised for his own use, there are 
many beneficial insects: some furnish food, like the honey bee, some provide 
clothing material, like the silkworm, many are parasites upon noxious in- 
sects, and many species of bees pollinate the flowers of fruit and garden 
trees and plants, thus assuring a crop. Most insects have four distinct 
stages in their cycle of development: 

1. Egg 

2. Larva (caterpillar^ grub, maggot, etc.) 

3. Pupa (chrysalis) 

4. Adult 

In several large groups, including the grasshoppers, true bugs, aphids, 
scale insects, etc., the insects do not pass through the distinct larval and 
pupal stages but imdergo a gradual development from the time they 
hatch from the eggs until the adult stage is reached. 

Insects may be divided roughly into biting or chewing (like the Colorado 
potato beetle) and sucking (like the aphids and scale insects). Against the 
former we can use arsenical poisons, but to kiU the latter we must use con- 
tact insecticides. Both may be killed with fumigants. The two forms are 
illustrated on page 308. 

Spraying Equipment 

Every one who grows plants should be provided with some convenient 
form of pump for applying sprays and should keep in stock a few of the 
materials most often used, so as to be available at a moment's notice when 
needed. 

For the small garden, one of the most convenient pumps is the small 
compressed air outfit holding from three to four gallons. If a knapsack 
sprayer or bucket outfit be possessed, either can be made to answer the 

293 



i 



GARDEN GUIDE 



purpose. For more extensive operations a wheel outfit with tank holding 
twenty-five gallons is desirable, especially in the vegetable garden. A 
barrel pump is essential to obtain sufficient power to spray large fruit trees 
and special power outfits are now being used in large orchards, potato fields, 
and for spraying shade and woodland trees. Nearly all pump manufac- 
turers make outfits corresponding to those just mentioned. For under leaf 
spraying, a pipe, bent at a right angle, with a nozzle near the elbow, is 
essential. 

For dusting, the grower may purchase a powder gun or a shaker, ac- 
cording to the amount of work to be done. In the small garden, a shaker 
may be improvised by punching small holes in a tin can, or by shaking the 
poison through the meshes of a cheesecloth bag. 

Lead Arsenate should be kept on hand, preferably in the dry or pow- 
dered form. This may be applied either as a dust or as a spray and keeps 
in better condition than the paste, which is apt to become frozen, or lumpy 
from drying, or to corrode the container. The dry form may be kept in- 
definitely. Some standard nicotine' preparation should also be kept in 
stock for dilution, to be used against sucking insects. 

Most of the other materials herein mentioned may be procured as 
needed from the local seed or hardware store, or from druggists. In large 
operations home mixing is usually more satisfactory and economical, but 
the small grower will often prefer to buy ready prepared insecticides, and 
he should find them satisfactory if put out by reputable manufacturers, 
and if he follows directions. 

Materials Used to Control Insect Pests 

Stomach Poisons — To Kill Chewing Insects 

To be used in the proportion of 
LEAD 3 lbs. paste, or l>o lbs. dry powder lead arsenate. 

ARSENATE 50 gallons water. 

Apply as a spray. The dry powder may also be sifted upon the plants 
A vegetable powder to be sifted upon the plants or to be mixed 
HELLEBORE wdth water, 1 ounce in 2 gallons, and applied as a spray. Hellebore 

loses its value on long standing. Hence fresh stock should always 
be purchased from the wholesale druggist, and it should be kept in a tightly-stoppered 



container. 

Wheat bran 5 lbs. 

POISONED Paris green or white arsenic 4 oz. 

BRAN Lemon or orange 1 fruit 

MASH Molasses 1 pint 

Water 7 pints 



Mix bran and poison together, dry. Squeeze juice of lemon into water and then cut 
pulp and peel into fine pieces and add to water, then add molasses and stir. Add syrup to 
bran and mix thoroughly. To kill cutworms the mash should be scattered oyer the field 
just before dark, preferably a few days before the plants are set. Also effective in killing 
grasshoppers. 

Contact Insecticides — To Kill Sucking Insects 

COMMERCIAL 1 part lime-sulphur ) For dormant or Winter spray to kill San 

LIME-SULPHUR 9 parts water j Jose scale. 

K pint (40 per cent, nicotine sulphate) 
NICOTINE 50 gallons water or 1 teaspoonful in a gallon. 

SOLUTION 2 pounds common soap. 

May be added to any of the other sprays mentioned herein by 
omitting the soap. 
COMMON SOAP 1 pound common laundry soap. 
AND WATER 8 gallons water. 



INSECT PESTS 



295 



MISCIBLE OIL 

KEROSENE 
EMULSION 



2 gallons kerosene. 

3^ pound common soap. 

1 gallon water. 

Dissolve the soap in hot water, add the kerosene and churn violently 
together until a creamy mass is formed which thickens upon 
cooling. Dilute nine times before using. 



Fumigants 

Carbon Dtsulphtde (Bisulphide). This is an ill-smelling, inflam- 
mable liquid which can be purchased in pound bottles. It volatilizes readily 
at warm room temperatures, and is especially valuable for fumigating 
stored seeds which are infested by weevils or other insects. The Hquid 
should be placed in a shallow dish on top of the seeds, and the receptacle 
should be covered tighlly and allowed to remain from 24 to 36 hours; two 
fluid ounces are sufficient for the ordinary flour barrel or its equivalent. In 
fumigating rooms and buildings, about 10 pounds are required for each 
1000 cubic feet of space. 

Hydrocyanic Acfd Gas. Caution: This gas is deadly to all kinds of 
animal and human life, and should be used with great care. It may be pre- 
pared from the materials and in the proportions given below: 

Sodium cyanide 1 oz. (avoirdupois) 

Sulphuric acid (commercial) 2 oz. (fluid) 

Water 4 oz. (fluid) 

This quantity is adequate for each 100 cubic feet of space for use on 
dormant nursery stock, dry seeds, buildings, etc. 

For greenhouses, coldframes, and hotbeds containing growing plants, 
use one-half ounce of cyanide with proportionate amounts of acid and 
water for each 1000 cubic feet of space. 

The cubic contents of the space to be fumigated should first be com- 
puted carefully. The space should then be made as tight as possible, leavmg 
doors, windows, or other openings which can be rhanipulated from the out- 
side for the purpose of airing. 

Stoneware crocks or earthenware jars may be used as generators, and 
should be so placed as to give the best possible distribution of the gas. The 
proportionate quantity of acid and water should be measured for each, and 
the cyanide weighed and placed in paper or cheesecloth bags. The water 
should be placed in the jar and the acid poured in carefully with constant 
stirring. When all is ready, quickly drop each bag into its jar, retiring 
quickly, and lock the door. For greenhouses the exposure should be for 30 
minutes, preferably toward night, or when the sun does not shine and when 
the plants are dry. For dormant nursery stock, 30 minutes. Buildings, 
granaries, etc., may remain closed over night. Open two or more openings 
from the outside and wait for 30 minutes before going inside. Then quickly 
open all sources of ventilation without breathing the gas. 

General Recommendations 

Where possible, practice rotation, and do not grow the same crops on 
any piece of ground year after year. Always remove or destroy all tops, 
rubbish, etc., which may harbor insects. Give the plants clean culture 
and aUow no weeds in the garden. 

If pests appear which you cannot identify, write and send specimens 
to your State Agricultural Experiment Station for information and advice. 



4on 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Insect Pests — Arranged by Host Plants 




Canker Worms 



APPLE 

Leaf-Cruniplcr: (^ase Bearers: Bud- 
Moths: Several kinds pass the Winter as 
small caterpillars and feed upon the un- 
foldinc? leaves, occasionally doing consider- 
able damage. Spray with lead arsenate as 
soon as trees begin to look green; repeat a 
week later. 

Canker Worms: 
Small looping cater- 
pillars feed upon the 
leaves during May, 
and when disturbed 
spin down on silken 
threads. Spray fo- 
liage with lead ar- 
senate before blos- 
som buds open, and 
again soon after the 
petals fall. In un- 
sprayed orchards 
sticky bands of tree- 
tanglefoot should be 
placed around the 
trees late in October, 
and kept sticky un- 
til January ist, and 
again kept sticky from April ist to June itt. 

Tent Cater- 
pillar: Forms 
nestsat theforks 
of the branches 
during the 
month of May 
and the cater- 
pillars devour 
the leaves. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate just 
before blossoms 
open and again 
after they fall. 
Egg-masses may 
be clipped off 
and burned dur- 
ing Winter, and 
the nests may 
be removed with a cone-shaped brush. 

C o d 1 i n g 
Moth or Apple 
Worm : Larva 
burrows inside 
the fruit, par- 
ticularly around 
the core. Spray 
with lead arsen- 
ate soon after 
blossoms fall 
and repeat three 
to four weeks 
later. Both fo- 
liage and fruit 
should be kept 
well covered 
with spray 
until fruit is 
nearly grown. 






Gipsy Moth 



Codling 



Moth or Apple 
Worm 



Lesser Apple Worm: Feeds on the 
surface of fruit that is nearly mature, often 
injuring it in storage. Spray as for Codling 
Moth. 

Gipsy Moth: 

Occurs in the 
United States 
only in South- 
eastern New 
England. 
Brownish, hairy 
caterpillars de- 
foliate the trees 
in May and 
June. Spray 
foliage with lead 
arsenate, using 
5 to 10 pounds 
of the paste in 
so gallons of 
water. From 
August to May, 
seek for egg 
clusters and 
destroy them in 
situ by soaking 
with creosote. 
Band trees with 
tree tanglefoot. 
Leaf-roller: (Jreen Fruit Worms: 
Palmer Worm: Caterpillars feed upon 
leaves and partly grown fruit, often seri- 
ously injuring it. Spray with lead arsenate 
as for codling moth. 

Tussock Moths: Tufted caterpillars of 
several species feed upon the leaves the 
latter half of Summer. The white-marked 
tussock moth and the hickory tussock moth 
are usually the most abundant and there- 
fore the chief offenders. Spray with lead 
arsenate as for codling moth. 

Red-humped Caterpillar: Yellow- 
necked (Caterpillar: Feed in clusters on 
ends of branches, often stripping young trees 
in August and September. Gather by hand 
and destroy, or spray the foliage with lead 
arsenate. 

Fall Web-worm: Brown-tail Moth: 

See Pear. 

Curculios: Grubs of both Apple and 
Plum curculios infest the fruit, making it 
gnarled and ill-shaped. Spray twice after 
blossoms fall, and remove infested fruit in 
thinning. 

Apple Maggot or Railroad Worm: 

Small, legless white maggots burrow in the 
flesh of the ripening fruit of sweet and sub- 
acid varieties, especially those ripening 
early in the season. Will greatly injure 
fruit in storage unless kept at a low tempera- 
ture. Keep trees sprayed with lead arsenate 
as for codling moth. Destroy all infested 
fruit. 



INSECT PESTS 



297 




R o u n d - 

headed Borer: 
Flat-headed 
Borer: Grubs 
tunnel in the 
trunk near the 
ground. Dig 
out the borers 
wherever saw- 
dust appears. 
Apply a mixture 
of lime-sulphur 
and lead ar- 
senate to the 
trunks. 



Leaf. 
Mite 
Pear. 



blister 

See 



Round-headed Borer 



Red Spider: 
Clover Mite: 
Injure the 
leaves, especially in dry seasons, by feeding 
on the surface, causing them to turn yellow 
or rusty in color. Eggs of clover mite are 
often abundant on tree trunks through the 
Winter and are orange red in color; they 
are killed by the lime-sulphur spray in early 
Spring. For Summer treatment spray 
leaves with kerosene emulsion or nicotine 
solution. 

Apple Red- 
Bugs : Two 

species of red leaf- 
bugs suck the sap, 
causing the leaves 
to become dis- 
torted, and the 
fruit to be ir- 
regular with de- 
pressed spots 
usually most 
abundant near 
blossom end. 
Spray with nico- 
tine solution (i 
pint in 50 gallons 
water) either sep- 
arately or in com- 
bination with lead arsenate, lime-sulphur 
or Bordeaux mixture. 

Tarnished Plant Bugs: Suck the sap 
from the fruit, dimples developing from the 
punctures. Spray with nicotine solution as 
for Red Bugs. 

Leaf Hoppers: Whitish insects sucking 
sap from the under side of the leaves, caus- 
ing a whitish spotting or mottling on upper 
surface. Spray with nicotine solution as 
for Red Bugs. 

Woolly Apple Aphids: A white, woolly 
or cottony mass on bark represents a colony 
of this aphid, which sucks the sap, forming 
swellings or galls on the twigs. It clusters 
in wounds and prevents healing. It also 
forms galls on the roots, and often the 
smaller roots decay. Plant only clean or 
fumigated stock. Apply tobacco dust liber- 
ally and work into the soil around trees. 




Apple Red-Bugs 



Spray with kerosene emulsion to kill aphids 
on twigs. 

Rosy and 
Green Aphids : 

Rosy aphids 
attack the fruit 
clusters which 
fail to develop, 
and also the 
leaves, causing 
them to curl. 
The green 
aphids usually 
attack only the 
leaves of ter- 
minal shoots 
and water 
sprouts, causing 
them to curl, 
thus checking 
the growth. 
Spray with 
nicotine solu- 
tion as for Red 
Bugs. 

Oyster-shell Scale: 
Scurfy Scale: Both 
occur on the bark and are 
elongated or pear-shaped 
shells, the former about 
the same color as the 
bark; the latter, light gray 
or whitish. The insect 
under the shell sucks sap 
from the twigs. Spray 
with nicotine solution, 
soap and water, or kero- 
sene emulsion about the 
second week in June. 

San Jose Scale: See 

Peach. Illus. 




Rosy and Green A phids 




Oyster-shell 
, Scale 



ASH 

Oyster-Shell-Scale: See Apple. 

ASPARAGUS 

Asparagus 
Beetles: Both 
adults and larvae 
of the common 
asparagus beetle, 
and the twelve- 
spotted asparagus 
beetle feed upon 
the leaves, often 
injuring new plan- 
tations. Cut 
everything clean 
during the cutting 
season; later 
spray with lead 
arsenate. New 
plantations 
should be sprayed 
when the beetles 
Common Asparagus Beetle first appear. 




298 



GARDEN GUIDE 




ASTER 

B 1 i s t er 
Beetles: 

Three or 
four species 
feed upon 
the flowers, 
the black 
one being 
perhaps the 
commonest. 
There is no 
good remedy 
other than 
hand pick- 
i n g and 
covering the 




Bean Weevil 



Aster Blister Beetle 

plants with mosquito netting. 

BARLEY 
Army Worm : See Grass. 



BEAN 

Weevil : Adults lay eggs 
in the pods in the field and 
keep on breeding in . the 
dried seed, finally ruining it 
for planting or for food. 
Fumigating for 36 hours 
with carbon disulphide, 
using about two fluid ounces 
in a shallow dish on top of 
the seed in a tightly-covered 
barrel will kill the weevils 
without injuring the beana 
for food or for planting. 
Mixing the beans with an equal weight of 
air-slaked lime will prevent damage. If to 
be used for food only, the beans may be 
heated in the oven to kill weevils, but if 
the temperature approaches 150** F. the 
vitality of the seeds is endangered. 

Green Clover Worm: Occasionally 
slender, green, wriggling caterpillars riddle 
the leaves in July. Dust string beans with 
a fine powder. Beans to be shelled may be 
sprayed with lead arsenate. 

Aphids : Black aphids on leaves and new 
shoots sucking the sap. Spray with nicotine 
solution. 



BEET- 
SWISS CHARD 
Leaf- Miner : 

A small fly lays 
eggs in the leaves 
and the maggots 
tunnel or mine 
between the upper 
and lower leaf- 
surfaces. Destroy 
all infested leaves 
and practice late 
fall plowing. De- 
stroy all plants 
of the weed 
known as "lambs' 
quarters"in which 
this insect breeds. 




BIRCH 

Tussock Moths: See Apple, Hickory 
and Horse Chestnut. 

Birch Leaf Skeletonizer : Small yellow- 
ish larvae feed on both sides of the leaves in 
late Summer, often stripping the trees. 
Spray in July with lead arsenate. 

Bronze Birch Borer: The grub makes 
a spiral tunnel just under the bark of upper 
main branches, ridges showing on the out- 
side. Often kills trees. Cut and burn 
infested trees before May ist. 

BLACKBERRY 

Blackberry Sawfiy: Larvae feed upon 
leaves in June and July. Spray with lead 
arsenate about June 15th. 

Blackberry Crown Borer: Grub tun- 
nels- in larger roots and at base of stem. 
No remedy except to dig out and destroy. 

Red-necked Cane Borer: Grub tun- 
nels in stalks, forming galls or swellings 
often three inches long. Cut and burn all 
infested canes in Winter or early Spring. 

BOX 

Leaf -miner: A small two-winged fly 
lays eggs in the leaf and the larvae tunnel 
between the upper and lower surfaces. 
Destroy infested leaves. Fumigate the 
plants with hydrocyanic acid gas. 

Oyster-shell Scale: See Apple. 

CABBAGE-CAULIFLOWER 



Cabbage 
Worm: Velvety 
green worms feed 
on leaves through- 
o u t the season. 
Spray unheaded 
plants with lead 
arsenate. Use 
insect powder or 
hellebore on 
headed plants. 




Cabbage 
Looper: Smooth 
looping caterpillar 
feed with preced- 
ing in the late 
Summer and often 
tunnel into the 
cabbage head. 
vSpray as for cab- 
bage worm. 



Leaf-Miner 



Cabbage Looper 



INSECT PESTS 



299 




Cabbage Maggot 



Cabbage Mag- 
got: Tunnels in 
stem and main 
root of early set 
plants, near sur- 
face of ground, 
checking growth 
and often killing 
the plants. Place 
tarred paper discs 
around stems 
when plants are 
set. Practice crop 
rotation. 

Cabbage 
Aphis: Clustered 
underneath the 
leaves, this insect sucks the sap, often 
causing much injury. Underspray with 
nicotine or kerosene emulsion. 

CARNATION 
Aphid or Green Fly: Sucks the sap 
from stems, leaves and buds. Spray with 
nicotine solution, soap and water, or fumi- 
gate with tobacco. 

CELERY 

Celery Cater- 
pillar : Devours 
the leaves of celery, 
fennel, parsnip, par- 
sley and carrot. 
Hand picking is us- 
ually the best rem- 
edy. Parsnip and 
carrot may be 
sprayed with lead 
arsenate. 



Celery 
Caterpillar 



Cherry 

or 
rear 
Slug 




CHERRY 

Cherry or Fear Slug: Eats on upper 
surface of leaf. Spray with hellebore or 
lead arsenate. 

Canker Worms: See Apple. 

Cherry Maggots or Fruit Flies : Larvae 
of two species infest ripening fruit. Sprinkle 
foliage in early June with sweetened lead 
arsenate to kill the adults. 



Cherry Aphids: A brown aphid on 
under side of leaves, sucking sap and 
curling the leaves. Spray with nicotine 
solution, kerosene emulsion or soap and 
water. 

CHESTNUT-CHINQUAPIN 
Canker Worms: See Apple. 

Nut Weevils: 

Long-nosed snout 
beetles lay eggs in 
developing fruit 
and the grub 
infest the nuts. 
Destroy all in- 
fested nuts. Fum- 
igate nuts with 
carbon disulphide 
as for beans. 

Two - lined 
Chestnut Borer: 
Slender, flat- 
headed grubs 
tunnel under bark 
of chestnut and 
oak trees. Badly 
infested trees 
should be burned, 
or the bark re- 
mature and spread 




Weeviled Chestnut 



moved before 
to other trees. 



insects 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 
Aphis or Black Fly: Sucks the sap 
from the tender leaves and flower stems. 
Spray plants with, or dip them in, nicotine 
solution or soap and water. Fumigate with 
tobacco. A steady stream of water from 
your hose will often prove effective. 

CINERARIA 
Aphis or Green Fly: Sucks sap from 
new leaves and stems. Treat as for pre- 
ceding. 

COLUMBINE 
Columbine Leaf-miner: A two- 
winged fly lays eggs on the leaves and the 
maggots tunnel between tlie uppor and 
lower surfaces. 
Destroy the 
leaves first in- 
icsted and cul- 
tiv:ito the ground 
around the plants. 



CORN 
Cut Worms: 

See Tomato. 

Army Worm: 
See Crass. 

C o r n Ear 
\'^- <n m: Eats the 
immature kernels 
at tip of ear. Dust 
with sulphur and 
powdered lead 
arsenate, equal 
parts. 




Corn Ear Worm 



300 



GARDEN GUIDE 



CRANBERRY 

Fireworm or Black-headed Cranberry 
Worm : Small, pale green, black-headed 
caterpillars web the leaves and new shoots 
together and feed inside the nest. Spray 
with lead arsenate to kill the caterpillars. 
Flood the bog for three days to kill the pupae . 

Yellow-headed Cranberry Worm : 
Small, green, yellow-headed caterpillars 
injure plants in same manner as the pre- 
ceding. Spray with lead arsenate. Keep 
bogs flooded until about May 20. 

Cranberry Fruit-worm: Pale green 
larvae infest the berries. Flood the bog for 
about two weeks as soon as the fruit has 
been harvested. Destroy all infested ber- 
ries. 

CUCUMBER . 

Striped Cucum- 
ber Beetle : Eats the 
leaves of young 
plants. Larvae tunnel 
in main root or stem 
just under ground, 
sometimes killing the 
plant. Dust plants 
heavily with land 
plaster or dry lead 
arsenate. Cover 
plants with screens. 




Striped Cucumber 
Beetle 



Melon 

See Melon. 



Aphid: 




Currant Worm 



CURRANT 

Currant Worm : 

Eats leaves in May. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate or fresh 
hellebore. Dampen 
leaves, then sprinkle 
with air slaked lime. 

Currant Stem 
Girdler: Adults 
girdle new tips after 
laying eggs in them. 
Clip off and burn 
these tips at any 
time of the year. 

Currant Borers: Larvae of two species, 
— one a moth and the other a beetle — bur- 
row in the pith of the stems, causing the 
leaves to droop and finally killing the canes. 
Destroy infested canes in May. 

Four-lined Leaf -bug t An active bug, 
striped lengthwise with black and yellow, 
sucking sap from the terminal leaves. Spray 
with nicotine solution. 

Scurfy Scale: A light gray, pear- 
shaped scale on bark sucking the sap. 
Spray second week in June with kerosere 
emulsion or nicotine solution. 

San Jose Scale: See Peach. 

Currant Aphid: Yellowish green aphids 
sucking sap from the under side of the 
leaves causing them to curl. Underspray 
with nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion. 



CYCLAMEN 
Leaf-Mite: Transparent microscopic 
mites cause leaves to curl; plants do not 
blossom. Syringe under leaf surface 
strongly with water. Spray with, or dip 
the plants in, nicotine solution (i part to 
400). 



DAHLIA 



Tarnished Plant Bug: 

Sucks the sap from the stems 
and developing buds, causing 
them to drop off. Spray with 
nicotine solution. 



Stalk Borer: Larva bur- 
rows up and down inside the 
main stem, the upper portion 
usually wilting and dying. 
Slit the stem lengthwise with 
care and kill the borer. 



Stalk Borer 

DOGWOOD 
Sawflies: The larvae of several kinds 
feed upon the different kinds of dogwoods. 
Spray with hellebore or lead arsenate. 

EGG-PLANT 
Flea-Beetle: See Potato. 
Colorado Potato Beetle: See Potato. 
ELM 

Spiny Elm Caterpillar: Black spiny 
caterpillars in clusters strip certain branches 
of elm, willow and poplar. Remove cluster 
and destroy while caterpillars are small, or 
spray with lead arsenate. 

Elm Leaf 
Beetle: In May 
the adults eat 
holes through the 
leaves, and in 
June and July the 
grubs eat the 
green tissue from 
the under surface. 
Spray under sur- 
face of leaves with 
lead arsenate 
about June ist to 
kill the newly 
hatched grubs. 




Elm Leaf Beetle 

White-marked Tussock Moth 

Horse Chestnut. 



Canker 
Worms: See 
Apple. 

See 



INSECT PESTS 



301 



Leopard Moth: Larvae make deep tun- 
nels under the bark, often girdling the 
branches, which later break off. Small 
trees may be examined, and the borers 
killed by injecting carbon disulphide and 
closing the openings, or by inserting a wire. 

Elm Scale: Oval, brown, soft scales, 
with white marginal fringe, occur in the 
crevices of the bark of the trunk and larger 
branches. Spray with kerosene emulsion. 

White Elm Scale: A whitish pear- 
shaped scale on twigs. Spray about June 
10, with kerosene emulsion. 

Elm Woolly Aphids: Several species 
curl the leaves, or form in cottony masses on 
the bark. Spray with kerosene emulsion. 



EUONYMUS 



Euonymus 
Scale: Various 
species of Euony- 
mus are injured 
by this scale, 
which has narrow 
white shells in 
the male, and 
pear-shaped gray 
or brown shells 
in the female. Cut 
and burn the 
worst infested 
twigs. Spray in 
June with kero- 
sene emulsion to 
kill the young. 




Euonymus Scale 



FERN 

Woolly Bears: Several light brown 
hairy caterpillars devour the fronds in late 
Summer. Spray with lead arsenate. 

Hemispherical Scale: Brown, oval, 
convex scales on fronds of plants under 
glass. Apply soap and water or nicotine 
solution as a dip or spray. 



GERANIUM 
Greenhouse leaf-tyer: Small, green 
wriggling caterpillars feed upon the leaves 
of plants under glass. Spray with lead 
arsenate. 

White Fly: See Tomato. 

GOOSEBERRY 
Currant Worm : Larvae devour foliage- 
Apply hellebore or lead arsenate early in 
Mav 



Yellow Currant Fruit Fly: Small 

maggots infest the berries, which color pre- 
maturely and drop. Destroy infested fruit. 

Gooseberry Fruit Worm: Greenish 
larvae feed inside the berries. Destroy 
infested fruit. 

GRAPE 

Grape Plume Moth: Green spiny 
caterpillars web together the leaves of new 
shoots. Crush by pinching the nests. 

Grape Vine Flea Beetle: Adults and 
larvae devour the leaves. Spray with lead 
arsenate. 

Rose 
Chafer: 

Long- 
legged, 
brow n 
beetles ap- 
pear about 
the middle 
of June and 
feed upon 
the leaves, 
flowers and 
newly set 
fruit, often 
doing great 
d a m a g e . 
Spray heav- 
ily with lead 
open and, if 




Rose Chafer 



arsenate just before blossoms 
necessary, again after fruit has set. 

Grape Root Worm: Adults eat chain- 
like holes in leaves in July, and grubs eat 
roots, often causing great injury. Spray 
foliage with lead arsenate. 

Grape Berry 
Moth: Larvae 
feed inside the 
berry. Spray with 
lead arsenate after 
fruit sets, and re- 
peat twice at in- 
tervals of ten 
days. Place 
paper bags over 
the clusters soon 
after the fruit sets. 

Sphinx and 
other Caterpil- 
1 a r s: Several 
kinds of horn 
worms, as well as 
other caterpillars, 
feed on the 
leaves. Spray with lead arsenate or practice 
hand-picking. 

Grape Phylloxera: Sucks sap from 
leaves and roots, forming galls, causing 
serious injury to European varieties. Graft 
on stocks of native species. 

Grape Leaf -Hopper : Small yellow and 

red-marked leaf-hoppers sucking sap from 
under side of the leaves. Spray with nico- 
tine solution. 




Grape 
Berry 
Moth 



302 



GARDEN GUIDE 




White Grub 



GRASS 

White Grubs: These 
are the larvae of June 
beetles and when nearly 
mature and abundant in 
the soil cause much dam- 
age, especially in dry 
seasons, by eating off the 
roots of grass, corn, pota- 
toes, strawberries, etc. 
Plow in Fall to expose in- 
sects. Harrow very thor- 
oughly before planting. 



Army- worm: Occasional- 
ly, brown, striped caterpillars 
are so abundant as to strip 
the leaves and heads from 
grass and grain during July; 
they move like armies from 
one field to another, some- 
times doing great damage. 
Use poisoned bran mash. 
Plow deep furrows across the 
line of march, with steep side 
barring their progress. 
Sprinkle worms with kerosene. 
Spray strips of grass or grain 
with lead arsenate to protect 
the fields beyond. 

Fall Army-worm: 

Attacks lawns and millet in 
September, like preceding, but 
does not migrate in such large 
numbers. Same remedies 
Army Worm apply. Plow in late Fall. 

HICKORY 

Walnut Caterpillar: See Walnut. 

Fall Web-worm : See Pear. 

Hickory Borer: Larvae tunnel in solid 
wood of trunk. The burrows may be 
found by the sawdust ejected. Inject car- 
bon disulphide into the burrow and close 
the entrance. 

Hickory Tussock Moth: White and 
black hairy caterpillars feed upon the leaves 
in late Summer. Spray with lead arsenate. 

Hickory Bark Beetle: Small black 
beetles breed under the bark, and the 
galleries soon girdle the tree. T?he adults 
emerge through small round "shot-holes" 
in the bark. Beetles also feed at base of 
leaves, causing them to break off and fall in 
Midsummer- Badly infested trees should 
be removed before May, and either burned 
or else the bark removed. Spray healthy 
trees about June ist with strong lead 
arsenate with nicotine solution added. 

Nut Weevils: Larvae infest the fruit or 
nuts. See Chestnut. ^ 

Hickory Gall Aphid : Curious galls on 
the leaf stems often cause the leaves to fall 
in Midsummer. Galls contain large num- 
bers of aphids. Spray with nicotine solu- 
tion just as new growth starts in Spring. 



HOP 

Hop Aphid : Green aphids sucking sap 
from the under leaf-surface. Spray with 
kerosene emulsion. 



HORSE CHESTNUT 




White- 
marked Tussock 
Moth: Black and 
yellow.red-headed 
hairy caterpillars, 
each bearing four 
upright tufts of 
white hairs, de- 
vour the leaves. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate. 



White-marked Tussock 
Moth 

IRIS 

Iris Root Borer : A larva tunnels in the 
root stocks, injuring many plants. Destroy 
infested root stocks. Burn over Iris beds 
in Winter to destroy the eggs. 



JUNIPER 

Juniper Web- worm: Small brown 
caterpillars feed upon the leaves which 
they web together. Spray with lead 
arsenate. 

LARCH 

Larch Sawfly: Larvae defoliate trees in 
Midsummer. Spray with lead arsenate. 

Woolly Aphid : White cottony tufts on 
bark and at the leaf whorls. Spray with 
kerosene emulsion. 



LETTUCE 
Aphid or Green Fly: Sucks sap from 
the leaves. Spray with soap and water or 
fumigate beds with tobacco. 

LILAC 

Lilac Borer: A white larva tunnels in 
the twigs. Cut and burn infested twigs. 
Oyster-shell Scale : See Apple- 
San Jose Scale: See Peach. 

LILY 

Stalk Borer: See Dahlia. 

Aphid: Yellow aphids with red mark- 
ings suck the sap from under side of leaves. 
Spray with nicotine solution. 



INSECT PESTS 



303 



LINDEN 
Canker Worm : See Apple. 
VVhite-inarked Tussock Moth: See 

Apple and Horse Chestnut. 

Linden Borer: White larvae tunnel 
in wood at base of tree. Dig out borer or 
inject carbon disulphide. 



LOCUST 

Locust Borer: Larvae tunnel in solid 
wood of trunk. Inject carbon disulphide 
into, the burrows and close the entrance. 



MAPLE 

White -marked 
Tussock Moth: See 

Horse Chestnut. 




Other 
Moths: 



Tussock 

See Apple. 



' Ca nker 
See Apple. 



wor m s: 



M aple Borer 



Maple Borer : Larvae 
make spiral tunnels 
just under the bark of 
trunk or larger branch- 
es. Examine the trees 
in September; the bur- 
rows may be located by 
the sawdust thrown out. 
Inject carbon disulphide 
and close the entrance. 




Woolly Maple 
Leaf Scale: 

White cottony 
masses of wax con- 
t a i n i n g females 
and eggs occur on 
the under side of 
the leaves of sugar 
maples in Mid- 
summer; the in- 
sects suck the sap 
and cause the 
leaves to fall pre- 
maturely. Males 
and larvae are 
found in the crev- 
ices of the bark 
where the latter pass the Winter in white 
cases. Spray dormant trees with nicotine 
solution and soap. Burn infested leaves 
as they drop. 

Cottony Maple Scale: On red and 
silver maples, large, oval, brown scales 
pass the Winter on the bark of the branches 
and in Summer develop conspicuous cotton- 
like tufts of white wax nearly half an inch 
in length. Spray with miscible oils. 

Terrapin Scale: Small, reddish brown 
oval scales occur on small twigs of red and 
silver maples, sometimes killing them. 
Spray with kerosene emulsion. 



Woolly Maple Scale 



Oyster-shell Scale: See Apple. 

Maple Aphids: Green aphids are com- 
mon on under surface of leaves of Norway 
and Sycamore Maples in June. Spray with 
nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion. 

MARGUERITE 
Marguerite Fly or Leaf Miner: A 

maggot tunnels between upper and lower 
surface layers of the leaves. Spray with 
nicotine solution every ten or twelve days. 

MELON 

Striped Cucumber Beetle: See Cu- 
cumber. 

Melon Aphid: Sucks the sap from the 
under side of the leaves, curling them and 
causing much damage if abundant. Under- 
spray the leaves with nicotine^ solution. 

MILLET 
Fall Army Worm : See Grass. 



NASTURTIUM 

Brow^n aphids cluster on stems 



Spray with 



Aphid 

and leaves, sucking the sap 
nicotine solution. 

OAK 

Canker Worm : See Apple. 

Brown- tail Moth: See Pear. 

Orange Striped Oak-worm: Black 
and orange striped caterpillars feed upon 
the leaves late in the season. Spray with 
lead arsenate. 

OATS 

Army Worm: See Grass. 

ONION 

Maggot: Infests the bulb of the young 
and growing plant. Practice crop rotation. 



Thrips or 
White Blast: 

Very small insects 
feed upon the sur- 
face of the leaves, 
causing a whitish 
appearance. Burn 
all tops and re- 
fuse; burn over 
the grass land 
around the field to 
kill over-wintering 
insects. Spray 
with nicotine sol- 
ution. 




Thrips or Wliite Blast 



S04 



GARDEN GUIDE 



PiEONY 

Rose Chafer: Feeds on blossoms of 
white varieties. See Grape. 

- PALM 

Scales: Various white and brown scales 
infest the species of palms found in green- 
houses. Apply nicotine solution or soap 
and water as a spray or as a dip. 

PEA 

Pea Weevil: The adult lays eggs in 
the pods in the field, and the larvae develop 
in the dried seeds and the emerging beetles 
leave round holes. Fumigate with carbon 
disulphide or cover with air-slaked lime. 
See Bean. 

Green Pea Aphid : Sucks the sap from 
stems and leaves in June, often causing 
great injury, when abundant. Early varie- 
ties may mature a crop before being greatly 
injured. Spray with nicotine solution and 
soap. 

PEACH 

Peach Sawfiy : Larvae 
feed upon leaves in June 
and July. Spray with 
lead arsenate. 

Peach Borer: Larvae 
tunnel under bark at 
base of trunk. Dig 
them out in May and 
again in September. 
Paint trunks with lead 
arsenate and lime-sul- 
phur from just below 
the surface to a foot 
from the ground. 

Fruit Bark Beetle 
or vShot Hole Borer: 

Small black beetles tun- 
nel just under the bark, 
girdling the tree, and 
emerging through small "shot holes." 
Burn infested trees and keep others thrifty. 



Plum Curculio: 
See Plum. 

San Jose Scale : 

Small circular shells 
containing insects 
which suck the sap 
from twigs, leaves 
and fruit. On fruit 
a red spot surrounds 
each insect. Spray 
dormant trees with 
lime-sulphur. 

Black and 
Green A p h i d s : 
Suck sap from 
leaves and shoots. 
Spray with nico- 
tine solution. 




Peach Sawfly 





Brown-Tail Moth 



I San Jose Scale 



PEAR 

Pear or Cherry Slug: See Cherry. 

Brown-tail 

Motn: Occurs 
only in Eastern 
New England. 
Brown, hairy 
caterpillars hiber- 
nate in nests on 
twigs and feed on 
leaves in May and 
June. Cut and 
burn winter nests. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate as soon 
as blossoms fall, 
and again in 
August. 

C o d 1 i n g 
Moth: See 

Apple. 

Fall Web- 
worm: Brown, 
hairy cater- 
pillars feed in webs or nests at ends of 
branches the latter part of Summer, Clip 
off and burn nests when small. Spray 
with lead arsenate. 

Leaf Blister Mite: Forms galls or 
blisters on unfolding leaves, causing many 
leaves to fall in July. Blisters turn red, 
and later brown. Spray dormant trees in 
late Fall or early Spring with lime-sulphur. 

Pear Psylla: Jumping plant lice suck 
sap from leaves and shoots, causing many 
leaves to fall in July. Spray with lime- 
sulphur in Spring just before buds open. 
Spray infested trees with nicotine solution 
in July to clean up the fruit. 

San Jose Scale: See Peach. 

Pear Thrips: A very small insect that 
feeds upon the fruit buds, destroying them. 
Spray with nicotine solution just as buds 
open and again after blossoms fall. 

False Tarnished Plant Bug: Punc- 
tures the small and developing fruit, caus- 
ing it to become irregular and knotty. 
Spray with nicotine solution and soap. 



PHLOX 

Red Spider: Injures leaves, causing 
them to turn yellow. Spray with kerosene 
emulsion or with soap and nicotine solution. 

PINE 

Sawflies: The larvae of several native 
and imported species feed upon the leaves. 
Spray with lead arsenate. 

White Pine Weevil: Larvae tunnel 
under the bark of the leader, causing it to 
wilt and die in Midsummer. Ornamental 
trees may be protected by spraying leaders 
about May ist with, lead arsenate or lime- 
sulphur. Jarring the beetles into a net 
once a week during May will greatly 



INSECT PESTS 



305 




Plum curcuUo 



reduce the damage. Infested leaders 
should be cut and destroyed before the 
adults emerge. 

Pine Bark Aphid: Aphids with 
cottony wax secretion form white patches 
on bark, sucking the sap. Spray with 
kerosene emulsion. 

Pine Leaf Scale: White, pear-shaped 
shells on leaves contain insects sucking the 
sap. Occasionally kill small trees. Spray 
with nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion 
about the second week in June. 

PLUM 

Plum cur- 

culio: Grub in- 
fests the growing 
fruit, causing it 
to fall. Jar the 
trees once a week, 
for six weeks 
after trees bloom; 
catch the beetles 
on sheets and de- 
stroy them. Also 
spray during the 
same period with 
lead arsenate. 

Fruit Bark 
Beetle or Shot- 
hole Borer: See 

Peach. 

Plum aphids: Suck sap from under 
side of leaves. Spray with nicotine solu- 
tion and soap. 

San Jose Scale: See Peach. 



POPLAR 

Poplar Tent-maker: Larvae feed on 
leaves and fold them together near ends 
of branches, forming nests. Spray with 
lead arsenate. 

Spiny Elm Caterpillar: See Elm. 

Tussock Moths: See Apple, Hickory 
and Horse Chestnut. 

Poplar Borer: Larvae make large gal- 
leries in wood of trunk. Dig out or inject 
carbon disulphide into the burrow and 
close the opening. 

Poplar and Willow Curculio: Larvae 
tunnel in smaller trunk and branches. 
Destroy badly infested trees. Cut out 
borers: inject carbon disulphide. 

Oyster-shell Scale: See Apple. 
POPPY 

Aphids: Black aphids suck the sap 
from stems and leaves. Spray with nico- 
tine solution. 

POTATO 

NOTE — Potatoes require vigilant watch- 
ing. Watch your crop for three par- 
ticular enemies: The flea beetles and 
adult Colorado beetles may appear soon 



after the leaves show above ground and 
should be given attention. Larvae of the 
Colorado beetle do not appear until about 
the first of June. About July ist watch 
for aphids and spray to eradicate the in- 
cipient colonies before the aphides spread 
over the whole field. Unless promptly 
checked the aphids will ruin your entire 
crop in a few days. 

Flea Beetle: 
Small, black, 
jumping beetles 
eat holes through 
the leaves. Spray 
both upper and 
under surfaces 
heavily with lead 
arsenate. 

Colorado Po- 
tato Beetle: 

Both adult and 
larvae devour the 
leaves. Spray or 
dust with lead ar- 
senate. 



Three -Lined 
Potato Beetle: 

Larvae feed upon 
the leaves and 
carry their black 
excrement on 
their backs. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate. 




Colorado Potato Beetle 




Potato Aphid 



Potato Aphid: Green aphids appear- 
ing in large numbers suck the sap from the 
shoots and under side of the leaves, causing 
much damage. Spray with soap and 
nicotine solution. 



PRIVET 

Privet or Lilac Borer: Larvae tunnel 
in the stems. Remove and destroy in- 
fested stems. 



306 



GARDEN GUIDE 



QUINCE 

Round-headed Borer: See Apple. 

Quince Curculio: Adults feed upon, 
and the grubs feed inside, the growing 
fruit, causing it to be knotty. Jar the 
trees as for plum curculio. Spray with 
lead arsenate. 

Aphid: See Apple. 

RADISH 
Maggot: See Cabbage. 
Aphid : See Turnip. 

RASPBERRY 
Raspberry Sawfly: Larvae feed upon 
the leaves. Spray with lead arsenate or 
hellebore. 

Cane Borer: Larvae tunnel inside the 
canes. Cut and burn infested canes. 

RHODODENDRON 
Rhododendron Lace Bug: Sucks the 
sap from the under surface of the leaves, 
leaving brown spots of excrement. Spray 
with nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion. 

ROSE 

Rose Slug or Sawfly: Eats away the 
green tissues of the leaves, only the net- 
work remaining. Spray with lead arsenate , 
hellebore, or nicotine solution. 

Rose Chafer: See Grape. 

Rose Leaf -Hopper: Whitish, jumping 
and flying insects which suck the sap from 
the under side of the leaves. Spray with 
nicotine solution. 

Rose Aphid or Green Fly: Sucks the 
sap from the tender leaves and shoots. 
Dip the shoots in, or spray with nicotine 
solution. 

Rose Scale: Whitish, circular shells 
on the stems contain insects which suck 
the sap. Cut and burn the worst infested 
stems. Spray with nicotine solution. 

RYE 

Army Worm: See Grass. 
Wheat Midge: See Wheat. 

SNAPDRAGON 
Leaf -Mite: Causes leaves to curl and 
plants do not blossom. Spray with 
nicotine solution. 

SNOWBALL 
Aphids: Suck sap from the leaves, 
causing them to curl. Dip in, or spray 
with nicotine solution. 

SPIR^A 

Aphids: Suck the sap from the new 
shoots. Use nicotine solution as a spray 
or dip. 

SPRUCE 

Spruce Bud Moth: Larvae feed on 
leaves of terminal shoots of the branches, 
often causing much damage. Spray with 
lead arsenate. 



Spruce Gall Aphid: Forms galls at 
the base of the new growth on Norway 
and other spruces. Spray in late Fall or 
early Spring with nicotine solution and 
soap, or with kerosene emulsion. 



SQUASH-PUMPKIN 



Squash-vine 
Borer : Larvae tunnel 
in the stem near its 
base, causing decay. 
Cut slits lengthwise 
in the stem and kill 
the borers. Cover 
the joints of the vine 
with earth and new 
roots will be formed 
to support the plant. 
Grow a few early 
plants for traps, and 
when well infested, 
destroy them. Plant 
the main crop rather 
late. 




Squash Lady-Beetle 




Squash Bug or Stink Bu^ 



Squash Lady- 
Beetle: Adults 
and larvae feed 
upon the leaves. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate. 



Striped Cu- 
cumber Beetle: 

See Cucumber. 



Squash Bug 
or Stink Bug: 
A brown bug, 
three-fourths of 
an inch in 
length, w^hich 
sucks the sap 
from the under 
sid e of the 
leaves, causini^ 
them to wilt and 
die. Underspray 
with kerosene 
emulsion to kill 
the young. The 
old bugs and the 
egg clusters may 
be gathered by 
hand. 



INSECT PESTS 



307. 



STRAWBERRY 
Strawberry Sawfly: Larvae devour the 
leaves. Spray with lead arsenate or helle- 
bore- 
Strawberry Flea-Beetle: Eats round 
holes through the leaves. Spray with lead 
arsenate. 

Strawberry Leaf -Roller: Larvae roll 
leaf and feed inside. Spray with lead 
arsenate. In bad infestations burn over 
fields as soon as crop is harvested. 

Strawberry Weevil: The females of 
this small snout beetle cut off the blossom 
buds of staminate varieties when ovi- 
positing. Plant pistillate varieties in part. 
Spray with lead arsenate. 

Strawberry Crown Borer: Grub feeds 
in the crown of the plant. Practice crop 
rotation. Burn over infested field in Fall. 

Strawberry White-fly: Sucks sap from 
the under side of the leaves. Underspray 
with soap and nicotine solution. 

Strawberry Root Aphid: Sucks sap 
from leaves and roots, killing plants. 
Spray with nicotine solution. Set clean 
plants on land not infested. 

SWEET POTATO 

Tortoise Shell 
Beetles: Feed 
upon leaves. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate. 



TOBACCO 
Flea Beetle: 

Eats holes 
through the 
leaves. Spray 
upper and under 
leaf -surfaces 
heavily with lead 
arsenate. 

Cut Worms: 
See Tomato. 

Tobacco or 
Tomato Horn- 
Worms: Large 
green caterpillars 
with horn on the 
tail devour the 
leaves. Practice 
hand picking. 
Spray with lead 
arsenate. 



Flea Beetle: 
Stalk Borer: 



See Potato or Tobacco. 
See Dahlia. 




Horn Worm 
Affects both Tomato 
- and Tobacco 




The Cut Worm 
A general pest 



TOMATO 

Cutworms: Eat 

off the stems of the 
plants near the 
ground; certain 
species climb the 
plants and eat the 
leaves. Scatter poi- 
soned bran mash 
around the field just 
at night so that the 
^cut worms may have 
a chance to get it 
before it dries. 



Tomato or Tobacco Horn-worms: 

See Tobacco. 

Greenhouse White-Fly: Immature 
insects suck the sap from the under sides 
of the leaves. Underspray with soap and 
water. Fumigate greenhouses and frames 
with hydrocyanic acid gas. 



TULIP TREE 




Tulip Tree Scale 

Tulip Tree Scale: Large, brown, 
hemispherical scales on bark of lower 
branches, sucking the sap. Spray with 
lime-sulphur in Fall or Winter. 



TURNIP 
Cutworms: See Tomato. 

Cabbage Root Maggot: See Cabbage. 

Turnip Aphid: Green aphids on under 
side of leaves sucking the sap. Under- 
spray with soap and water or nicotine 
solution. 

VIOLET 

Violet Sawfly: Larvae devour leaves. 
Spray with lead arsenate or hellebore. 

Eel- worms: Infest the roots, forming 
galls. Plant in new soil or sterilize old soil 
by steam. Add plenty of air-slaked lime 
to the soil. 

WALNUT 
Walnut Caterpillar: Clusters of black 
caterpillars covered with whitish hairs 
strip the branches and finally the tree in 
August. Spray with lead arsenate. Clip 
off twigs when caterpillars are small, and 
kill by crushing. 

Walnut Weevil or Curculio: "Adults 
feed at base of leaf stems; larvae tunnel in 
new shoots and infest the fruit of Persian 
and Japanese Walnuts. Spray with lead- 
arsenate. 



308 



GARDEN GUIDE 



WHEAT 

Army Worm: See Grass. 

Hessian Fly: Maggots burrow in 
sheath of a leaf at base of stem, causing 
the stalks to turn yellow and die. Plant 
rather late, say about September ist. 

Wheat Midge: The fly lays eggs on 
the chaff and the maggots feed upon the 
developing kernels, so that the heads 
ripen early and produce no grain. Burn 
stubble before plowing. Plow infested 
fields deeply in the Fall. 

Green Bug or Aphid: Green aphids 



suck the sap from leaves. Destroy in early 
Fall all volunteer wheat and oats. Prac- 
tice crop rotation. 

WILLOW 

Spiny Elm Caterpillar: See Elm. 

Poplar Tent Maker: See Poplar. 

Poplar and Willow Curculio: 
Poplar. 

Oyster-shell Scale: See Apple. 

Aphids: Large reddish aphids 
gregate on twigs in fall, and suck the sap. 
Spray with kerosene emulsion or nicotine 
solution. 



See 



con- 



We wish to add just a few words in regard to the enemies treated in 
this and the preceeding chapter. The main method for controUing them is 
to prevent them by the strictest sanitation. All diseased or insect-infested 

parts must be bm-ned 
such stock must nev- 
er be planted in your 
clean garden or al- 
lowed to remain there 
if it has already 
started. Land which 
is known to be in- 
fested with various 
pests must be 
avoided. 




A sucking insect — note the 
formidable beak used to 
pierce plants and extract 
juices 



Head of biting insect — 
note jaws, large compound 
eyes, and the feelers near 
jaws and eyes 



Keep down weeds 
which harbor diseases 
and insects. A 
method which must 
not be scorned is hand picking when possible. Anything which contributes 
toward the best culture of the plant will be found a control for the enemies 
as well. If you have questions as to just how to control any of the various 
maladies, consult your seedsman, florist or nurseryman, but do notflose 
time — insects and diseases work quickly. 

The gardener should become 
familiar with the ways of the in- 
sects, for some are valuable and 
should be admired. Those who 
have read Sir John Lubbock, 
Faber or Maeterhnck realize that 
the insect world is quite as to- 
mantic as our own. 

Plants become yellow not only 
as a result of insect injury or 
disease, but also when they get 
too much water or too little or 
or when the soil is too poor or 
too rich. Be sure of the cause 
before you try to cure the 
trouble. 




The upper figure shows an ordinary brass 
garden syringe. Be sure to buy a good article 
to begin with; it pays. The lower figure shows 
a brass vaporizing sprayer. This is just what 
is needed for applying liquid insecticides and 
fungicides 



For a complete work on the subject of this Chapter we recommend 
ECONOMIC ENTOMOLOGY, by Prof. JohnB. Smith. In this book Prof. Smith, in, 
clear and simple language, has succinctly presented the underlying facts upon which the 
application of remedial or preventive measures, as regards the combating of iniurious 
insects, is based, and which can be easily understood and followed. 481 pages. Price, 
$2.65, postpaid. Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide. 



CHAPTER XXIII 



Some Common Diseases of Plants 
and Their Control 

By Edwin F. Hopkins, Associate Pathologist, Alabama Agri. Exp' 

Station, Auburn, Ala. 
and 

H. H. Whetzel, Professor of Plant Pathology, Cornell University, 

Ithaca, N. Y. 

How Diseases in Plants are Exhibited — The Cause of Disease — 
Concerning the Control of Diseases — Materials Used to Control 
Plant Diseases — The More Common Diseases of Garden Crops 

INCREASING attention is being given these days to the diseases 
of plants because of the enormous losses which they annually 
entail. Jn addition to the fact that some of these diseases take 
a certain yearly toll from our crops and thus reduce production per 
acre, there is the danger that under favorable conditions certain dis- 
eases of staple crops may become epidemic and totally wipe out a 
product, vitally necessary to our welfare. The late bUght of Potatoes 
it is said, contributed chiefly to the suffering caused by the Irish 
famine in 1845. That year, being a favorable one for the blight, the 
potato crop throughout Europe was a total failure. Taking some more 
recent, more local, figures, in New York State alone, it is conservatively 
estimated that Oat smut caused a loss of over $2,000,000 in 1915, 
while the same state that year suffered a loss of nearly 20 millions of 
dollars from the late blight of Potatoes. Wheat rust is credited with 
having caused a loss of $67,000,000; in 1898, Peach leaf curl damaged the 
1900 Peach crop in the United States to the extent of $2,335,000. 
And while figures are not available, losses from plant diseases in home 
gardens are without doubt equally appalhng in the United States. 

One could give many more figures, but these few will serve to 
illustrate the importance of understanding and controlhng plant dis- 
eases. We must realize that they are present, that they cause an 
enormous loss and that every grower and gardener must learn three 
things regarding the more common of them. These are, first, just 
how to know them; second, what causes them; and, third, the method 
of control. 

How Diseases in Plants are Exhibited ^ 

The presence of a disease is made evident by certain signs or 
symptoms shown by the diseased plant. These are injurious deviations 

309 



310 



GARDEN GUIDE 



from the normal, produced by some agent which interferes with the 
usual growth or functions of the plant. For example, a certain 
Cabbage plant wilts while another nearby does not. On pulling up 
the wilted plant we find that the roots are swollen to many times 
their normal size. The wilting and the abnormal size of the roots 
are symptoms of a disease known as clubroot. 

The following are some of the symptoms exhibited by diseased 
plants: Rot is the effect produced when a considerable portion, usually 
of a fleshy plant part, is rapidly killed. We may have soft rots, hard 
rots, dry rots and wet rots. Rots of stems are called stem rots, rots 
of roots, root rots, etc. Blight is the effect caused by a rapid kiUing 
of tissue and usually refers'to leaves and shoots. Spot is a small area 
of dead tissue. There are leaf spots, pod spots, fruit spots, etc. Wilt 
results from injury to the water conducting vessels or from some injury 
to the water absorbing organs of the root. Scab is superficial injury 
resulting in corky growth and cracking. Wart is an irregular out- 
growth from a plant organ, leaf, stem or root. Canker is a definite 
dead area in the bark usually on stems or on limbs of trees. Mildew 
is a white fungous growth upon the surface of a plant; there are powdery 
and downy mildews. Mosaic is a peculiar fight and dark green 
mottling of leaves produced in certain diseases. Knots are swellings 
produced by an overgrowth of tissue. Burn is a killing of leaves 
especially at the edges or tips. Smut is a black powdery mass, while 
a rust usually consists of reddish to brown powdery pustules. Leaf 
curl is a distortion of leaves due to the presence of a parasite. Galls 
are abnormal swelfings. Many other similar descriptive terms are 
used to designate symptoms, but the above illustrations will suffice to 
indicate what constitutes symptoms. 

The Cause of Disease 

We must distinguish between injuries caused by insects and those 
caused by diseases, although the two may have some points in com- 
mon. Diseases are usually caused by (1) parasitic slime moulds, (2) 
bacteria, or, (3) fungi, all of which are low forms of plant fife. Rut 
there are some diseases which are not due to the presence of a parasite. 
There are many lower organisms which are not harmful; in fact, many 
are beneficial; but certain ones have so modified their habits that they 
are able to live upon the higher plants and use the food prepared by the 
latter. They are then called parasites and by their manner of fiving 
they injure the plants upon which they exist and produce in them a 
diseased condition. 

Slime moulds, though very coromon, are not weU known to most 
people because of their small size. In their active life phase, they 



PLANT DISEASES 



311 



resemble closely a slime, while at another time they appear mould-like; 
hence, the name. The dreaded club root disease of Cabbage and allied 
plants, is caused by a shme mould as is also powdery scab of 
Potatoes. 

Bacteria are perhaps better known because of their connection 
with disease in man. This has been emphasized so much that there is 
a general belief that most bacteria are harmful, although actually most 
of them are beneficial. Bacteria are either rod-shaped, spherical or 
spiral like. Those which cause diseases in plants belong to the rod- 
shaped groups. At the present time, there are over 150 plant diseases 
known to be caused by bacteria, including fire bhght, one of the most 
serious diseases of Pears, Apples, and Quinces. 

Fungi make up a large group of lower plants of great diversity 
of form and life history. The well known mushrooms and puff balls 
belong to this class as well as countless microscopic forms, like rusts, 
mildews, etc.; some are parasites while many are not. Probably the 
largest number of diseases of plants is caused by fungi. 

A knowledge of the hfe history of these organisms is especially 
important if one is to devise and use methods of preventing the diseases 
which they cause. We try to determine the point in the life history 
at which the pathogene (agent that causes disease) is most vulnerable 
and strike there. 

Concerning the Control of Diseases 

All methods of controlling plant diseases are based upon one of 
four principles: exclusion, eradication, protection and immunization. 
Exclusion is a matter of preventing the introduction of disease pro- 
ducing fungi, bacteria and the like into a given country or locality. 
This is most commonly attempted by legislation, exclusion laws and 
quarantines. Eradication refers to the removal of a pathogene from 
an area when once it has gained a foothold, and involves many opera- 
tions, such as sorting out and destroying diseased seed, plants and plant 
parts, soil sterihzation, crop rotation and seed disinfection. This 
principle may be applied in the control of a large number of diseases. 
In practicing protection methods we work from the standpoint of a 
plant and place some barrier between it and the parasites which attack 
it. In the operation of spraying which is a protective measure, we 
place a layer of poison called a fungicide on the leaves of a plant and 
when the fungus comes in contact with the poison it is killed. The 
addition of certain substances to the soil to preyent organisms from 
attacking the roots of plants, as in the liming of soil to prevent club 
root of Cabbage, may be classed as a protective measure. Immuniza- 
tion involves the selection or breeding of varieties or strains which are 



312 



GARDEN GUIDE 



resistant to certain diseases. In some few instances the application 
of this principle is practical and not a few resistant varieties have been 
developed in recent years, as, for example, Cabbage immmie to yellows 
and Beans immune to anthracnose. 

Materials Used to Control Plant Diseases 

Among the fungicides used to protect plants from diseases, by 
spraying or dusting them upon the foUage or fruit, the most commonly 
employed are Bordeaux mixture, lime-sulfur solution and sulfur in a 
finely ground form. For disinfecting seeds and tubers to which the 
spores of pathogenes become attached, the materials most used are 
formaldehyde and corrosive sublimate. To kill pathogenes which have 
gained lodging within the seed, hot water at different temperatures has 
proven most effective. 

Where insects are to be controlled as well as fungi, certain insecti- 
cides are often combined with the fungicides. Lead arsenate may be 
added to Bordeaux mixture or lime-sulfur for chewing insects, and 
Black Leaf 40, a tobacco extract may be similarly used against sucking 
insects like plant hce. 

Corrosive sublimate, a white powder, may be purchased at the 
drug store. Dissolve 4 ounces in a small amount of hot water and 
add cold water. May also be obtained in the form of tablets, one of 
which dissolved in a pint of water gives the desired strength, a 1 to 
1000 solution. ' ] 

Formaldehyde in the form of a 40 per cent solution called formaliu ! 
may be purchased at the drug store and diluted to different strengths 
for different diseases. 

Lime-sulfur may conveniently be purchased as the commercial 
concentrated solution (which should test about 32 Baume) and diluted 
as indicated below for the various diseases. 

Self -boiled lime-sulfur is prepared by adding a small amount of 
water to 8 pounds of good stone lime (quick lime) in order l^o start it 
slaking. Then 8 pounds of sifted sulfur is added gradually together 
with small amounts of water to prevent burning. When the slaking 
is over, make up to 50 gallons with water. This is used chiefly on 
peaches, but is being largely replaced by sulfur dust appKed dry. 

Bordeaux mixture is made by adding a weak solution of blue 
vitriol (copper sulfate) to a weak solution of milk of lime. Five 
pounds of blue vitriol crystals are put into a burlap bag and lowered 
into 25 gallons of water just below the surface until all of tlie blue 
vitriol is dissolved. While this is dissolving 5 pounds of good stone 
lime are slaked with a small amount of water and then diluted to 25 
gallons. Good hydra ted lime may be used in place of stone lime. 



PLANT DISEASES 



313 



Equal parts of the blue vitriol solution and the dilute milk of lime are 
then mixed together. This mixture is known as 5-5-50 Bordeaux. 
Other mixtures, as the 4-4-50 and the 3-3-50, are prepared in a similar 
manner, using proportionately less copper sulfate and lime. 

Sulfur, ground fme enough to pass through a 200-mesh to the 
square inch screen, may be applied with any good dusting apparatus 
for the control of a number of diseases of plants. 



The More Common Diseases of Garden Crops 



APPLE 

Bitter rot (Glomerella cingulata) causes 
a rot of the fruit, which at first is brown in 
color ; later small pink masses appear on 
its surface. Finally the whole fruit rots and 
then shrivels into a mummy, which some- 
times clings to the tree. Cankers also form 
on the limbs. They should be removed in 
the Winter and burned. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture (4-4-50) once before buds 
open and afterwards according to the 
weather. 

Black rot or New York Apple tree 
canker (Physalaspora Cydoniae). Fruit is 
rotted and covered with black pimples and 
shrinks to a mummy; leaves are often 
spotted and cankers develop upon the limbs. 
Remove cankers or cankered limbs. Spray 
foliage with Bordeaux (4-4-50) about the 
middle of July and again two weeks later. 

Blister canker (Nummerlana discreta). 
Cankers are formed on the limbs or body 
and at first are dull brown in color, later 
becoming darker. When the canker en- 
larges the bark blisters and comes off. 
Finally the small, raised, nailhead fruit 
bodies of the fungus are formed on the 
surface of the wood. Cut out small cankers. 
If large, remove the diseased limb. 

Brown rot (Sclerotinia cinerea). See 
Plum. 

Fire blight (Bacillus Amylovorus) . See 
Pear. 

Powdery mildew (Podosphaei^a leuco- 
tricha). The leaves become covered with a 
white or grayish powdery-like mildew which 
usually affects their growth where infection 
is severe. Twigs also are attacked. In the 
latter part of the season minute black bodies 
may be seen on this whitish overgrowth. 
Spray with a mixture prepared by adding 
3 pounds of copperas (iron sulfate) to 50 
gallons of 1-50 lime-sulfur solution. About 
four sprayings are recommended during 
the season. 

Rust {Gymnosporangium Juniperi-vir- 
ginianae). One stage occurs on the red 
Cedar as Cedar apples which are brown 
gall-like growths and produce yellow gel- 
atinous horns in Spring; the other stage 
occurs on Apple leaves and fruits. The 
spots on the_ Apple leaves are at first small 



and yellow, but later they become (.range 
colored on the upper side of the leaf; small 
pimples develop on the spots while on the 
lower surface minute cuplike structures are 
formed, the edges of which are split in a 
starlike manner. Severe infections cause 
the entire leaf to turn yellow and fall. To 
control this disease eradicate the Red 
Cedars within a radius of at least one mile. 
Spraying is not very effective, but lime- 
sulfur 1-40 may be used; spray the new 
leaves as they unfold. 

Scab {Venturia inaequalis) occurs on the 
leaves and fruit. It shows first on the 
under, latej; on the upper surface of the 
leaves as circular, olive green, superficial 
patches which later turn darker. The leaf 
under the spot may become convex or 
puffed. When infection is severe the entire 
leaf may be involved. On the fruit the spot 
is at first olive green and later has a dark 
center with a white papery margin. This 
is one of the most serious of Apple diseases. 
Spray with lime-sulfur (1-40). (1) When 
the buds show green; (2) Just before the 
blossoms open; (3) When the petals fall; 
(4) Two or three weeks after the petals fall. 

Sooty blotch or Fly speck (Leptothy- 
rium pomi). Irregular, superficial, sooty 
blotches which may be rubbed off the apple 
skin, or minute fly specks thickly crowded 
in spots over the surface of the fruit. The 
treatment for Apple scab will easily control 
this disease. 

Stippen, known also as ''bitter pit." A 
disease not due to an organism, but is said 
to be due to the improper distribution of 
water to the fruit. It may be recognized 
by the depressions on the surface of the 
fruit which are caused by the development 
of brown, corky areas in the flesh of the 
apple. Good cultural practices, as proper 
drainage, cultivation and pruning should 
be followed. Uniformity in the water 
supply during the growing season reduces 
losses from this disease to a minimum. 

ASPARAGUS 

Rust (Puccinia asparagi) attacks the 
green tops which develop after the shoots 
have been cut. It may be recognized by 
the final dying of the tops and the small red 
or black colored pustules formed on the 



314 GARDET^ 

stems and needles. In severe infections the 
tops turn yellow and the needles fall from 
the stems. Toward the end of the season 
the black or Winter stage develops. To 
control this disease, obtain rust-resistant 
strains. 

ASTER 

Leaf rust (Coleosporium Sonchi-arvensis) . 
May be recognized by the orange-colored 
pustules or sori which develop chiefly on the 
under side of the leaves. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture, before the rust appears. 

BEAN 

Anthracnose (Colletotrichium linde- 
muthianum) , a very serious fungous disease. 
It is distinguished by the circular and 
sunken black spots on both the pods and 
seed which may at certain times contain 
pink, gelatinous pustules on their surfaces. 
Ths leaf veins on the underside of the 
leaves and the stems also may be affected. 
The disease is carried over Winter on the 
seed, hence, use clean seed obtained by 
selecting pods free from these spots . Spray- . 
ing with Bordeaux (5-5-50) will also reduce 
the amount of disease . Resistant strains of 
some varieties like Red Kidney are now tc 
be obtained. 

Blight (Bacterium phaseoU). A bac- 
terial disease. Shows at first as large 
brownish areas on the leaves with yellowish 
water-soaked margins. Later these spots 
become darker in color and dry. The pods 
also develop water-soaked spots which are 
circular or irregular in shape often with red 
margins, and not sunken as in the case of 
anthracnose. As with anthracnose the 
seed which becomes infected from the pod 
carries the organism over the Winter. No 
satisfactory method of control is known 
except the use of disease-free seed. Resis- 
tant varieties have not yet been developed . 

BEET 

Leaf spot {Cercospora beticola). Very 
common fungous disease. Appears first as 
round brownish spots with red to purplish 
borders. Later, after the spots enlarge, 
they become ashen and papery in the center , 
which finally drops out and leaves holes in 
the leaf. When severe, these spots may 
coalesce and destroy the entire leaf. Burn 
the diseased leaves. Spray with Bordeaux 
mixture (5-5-50) when the plants are about 
six weeks old. Make later sprayings about 
10 days apart. 

Root rot (Phoma betae). Causes a black 
dry rot on stored roots. Small, pimple-like 
structures are formed on the surface of the 
diseased area. Also large circular spots are 
produced on the leaves. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture and remove all diseased 
leaves before placing the Beets in storage. 

Scab (Actinomyces chromagenus) . Known 
by the circular scabs with raised margins 
and depressed centers which form on the 
roots. Same as scab on Potatoes, which see. 
Do not grow Beets if Potato scab is known 
to be present in the soil, or where Beets 



GUIDE 

have been previously affected with this 
disease. 

BLACKBERRY 
Anthracnose. See Raspberry. 

Leaf spot (Septoria Rubi). Spots appear 
on the leaves first as small whitish or brown- 
ish areas. When very numerous on a leaf, 
they may cause it to dry up. Spray with 
Bordeaux mixture. 

Orange rust. See Raspberry. 

CABBAGE 

Black leg (Phoma lingam). Affects the 
leaves, stems and roots. The leaves are 
spotted, but not seriously injured. The 
chief injury is caused by a rotting of the 
stem and root which turn black; the leaves 
then wilt and the plant dies. Disinfect the 
seed as for black rot. 

Black rot (Bacterium campes tre) ■ Affects 
also Cauliflower, Kale, Rape, Kohl-Rabi, 
Brussels Sprouts, Radish, Turnip and other 
members of the Mustard family. The 
leaves show at the edges large dead areas, 
in which the veins are black. The entire 
leaf soon yellows and falls from the plant. 
The blackening of the veins, easily seen on 
holding a diseased leaf up to the light, is 
diagnostic of this disease. On splitting a 
diseased stalk, a blackening of the sap tubes 
is apparent. The bacteria live over in the 
soil and on the seed. Soak the seed 15 
minutes in corrosive sublimate solution 4 
ounces to 30 gallons of water, then dry in 
the shade. 

Club root (Plasmodiophora brassicae). 
A serious disease caused by a^slime mould, 
which produces enormous swellings of both 
the main and lateral roots. These swellings 
or clubs are irregular and unsightly in 
appearance. In hot, dry weather, wilting 
of the tops of affected plants frequently 
occurs. The organism lives in the soil. 
Practice crop rotation, set healthy plants, 
apply 2 to 3 tons of lime per acre to infested 
soil at least one year before planting again 
to Cabbage. 

Yellows (Fusarium conglutinans) . Its 
appearance is much the same as that of 
black rot, but the darkening of the veins 
begins at the base of the stem and works 
outward, while in black rot it does just the 
opposite, starting at the edge of the leaf 
and working toward the base. Use seed of a 
resistant variety. 

CARNATION 
Fusarium Stem rot (Fusarium sp.}. 
Affects the stem causing a dry rot near the 
base. A slow dying of the top takes place. 
Change the location of plants each year, and 
in the greenhouse use fresh or sterilized soil. 
Avoid overwatering . 

Leaf spot (Septoria Dianthi). Shows 
small circular grayish spots on the leaves 
and stem. Spray about once a week with 
blue vitriol (copper sulfate) 1 pound to 20 
gallons of water. 



PLANT DISEASES 



315 



Rhizoctonia Stem rot {Corticium vagum 
var. Solani). Rot takes place at or just 
below the surface of the soil and causes the 
plant to suddenly wilt. Observe the same 
precautions as controlling of Fusariuni stem 
rot. Do not set plants too deep. 

Rust {Uromyce^ Caryophyllinus) . 
Appears first as a small elongated blister like 
structure which later ruptures and exposes 
deep brown powdery masses. Present on 
both the stems and leaves. Avoid an excess 
of moisture in the greenhouse and spray 
with blue vitriol, 1 pound to 20 gallons of 
water. 

CELERY 

Early blight (Cercospora Apii). Spots 
appear first as pale yellow areas, irregular 
and somewhat angular in outline. Later 
they turn brown and finally the center 
becomes an ashen gray. May destroy the 
entire plant. Spray with Bordeaux mix- 
ture (5-5-50). Beginning when the plants 
are first set, make about 6 applications 
during the season. 

CHERRY 

Late blight (Septoria Petroselini va^ 
Apii). _ Affects flowers, which turn brow^ 
and wither, and fruit, which at first i^ 
rotted; then small, light brown pustules 
are produced on its surface. Finally the 
fruit becomes a hard, wrinkled mummy, 
which either hangs on the tree or falls to 
the ground. Spray with lime-sulfur (1-50) 
or dust with 90 parts of sulfur to 10 parts of 
arsenate of lead, first when the blossoms 
show white but before they open, later 
when the calyx is being shed, and finally 
about 2 to 3 weeks before fruit begins 
to ripen. 

Leaf curl (Exoascus Cerasi). The leaves 
become crinkled and turn reddish in color. 
On their lower slirface appears a whitish 
coating. They fall premateurly. The dis- 
eased leaves appear only on abnormal out- 
growths from affected twigs called witches' 
brooms. Prune out the diseased twigs. 

Leaf spot or Shot hole (Coccomyces 
hiemalis) . Spots appear on the leaves which 
at first mere discolorations , soon become 
dark red or purple in color; finally the 
center drops out leaving a "shothole," or 
the leaf turns yellow and falls. Plow under 
old leaves and spray with lime-sulfur (1-40) 
or Bordeaux mixture- (5-5-50); or dust with 
sulfur 90 parts and arsenate of lead 10 parts. 
Make first application when calyx is shed- 
ding; repeat 10 days later and again after 
picking. Do not use Bordeaux on sweet 
cherries . 

Powdery mildew (Podosphaera Oxya- 
canthae). Leaves and twigs of young shoots 
are covered with patches of white mildew 
which spreads finally over the whole leaf or 
twig. Small black spherical bodies develop 
on the surface of this mildew. Dust with 
sulfur or spray with lime-sulfur (1 to 50). 



CRANBERRY 

Gall {Synchytrium Vaccinii). Small, 
reddish galls are formed on the young stems, 
leaves, and sometimes, on the flowers and 
fruit. They are in color. Burn the bog 
over in the Autumn and keep it dry during 
Winter. 

Hypertrophy (Exobasidium Oxy cocci). 
The buds in the leaf axils grow out into 
shoots which bear swollen, enlarged leaves 
of a pinkish color. No remedy is known. 

Scald (Guignardia Vaccinii). Appears 
on berries, first as watery areas which en- 
large and soften the whole berry which 
turns brown; several spots may develop 
on one berry. Finally the affected berries 
become scalded in appearance. Sometimes 
black dots appear on them. Spray with 
Bordeaux mixture (5-5-50) to which a resin 
fish oil sticker is added. 

CUCUMBER, MELON AND SQUASH 

Anthracnose (Coletotrichum Lagena- 
rium) causes circular brownish spots on 
leaves and elongated light brown spots on 
stems. The spots on the fruits are sunken 
and have small pinkish gelatinous masses 
n o.ieir surfaces. Spray frequently with 
Borleaui mixture (5-5-50). 

Downy Mildew (Peronoplasmopara 
cubensis). At first small yellowish angular 
spots are produced on the leaves. These 
enlarge and may involve the entire leaf 
which finally dies. In moist weather a 
white downy growth may be seen on the 
under side of the leaf. Spray the vines every 
10 days with Bordeaux mixture (5-5-50). 

Wilt (Bacillus tracheiphilus) . Causes a 
wilting of a leaf and finally of the entire 
vine, which dies. Keep vines free of bugs 
and striped beetles which spread the bac- 
teria. Pull and burn diseased vines. 

CURRANT 

Leaf spot (Mycosphaerella Grossulariae) . 
Appears as small brown spots on the upper 
and lower sides of the leaf. As these spots, 
which often run together, enlarge, the 
centers become whitish and small black 
pimples arise on their surfaces. Leaves 
turn yellow and fall prematurely. Spray 
with lime-sulfur (1-50) or dust with a mix- 
ture of ground sulfur 90 parts and powdered 
lead arsenate 10 parts, as follows: When 
the first leaves appear and every two weeks 
following. 

Anthracnose (Pseudopeziza Ribis). Ap- 
pears as numerous small brown circular 
spots on the upper surface of the leaves, and 
also on the berries. When severe the leaves 
turn yellow and fall. On the leaf stems 
small, slightly sunken spots may be seen. 
Spray with Bordeaux mixture (5-5-50) or 
lime-sulfur (1-40) first, when the leaves 
are unfolding and subsequently at intervals 
of from 10 days to two weeks. Spray more 
frequently in moist weather. 



316 



GARDEN GUIDE 



EGG PLANT 

Leaf spot (Phomopsis vexans). Large, 
irregular patches, gray or brown in color, 
on which small black pimples subsequently 
form, are produced upon the leaves. Simi- 
larly appearing sunken spots or cankers are 
produced upon fruit and stalks. Plant only 
disease-free seed or treat seed with corro- 
sive sublimate (1 to 1,000) for 10 minutes. 
Wash in running water 15 minutes and plant 
at once. Do not plant on land which grew 
diseased Egg plants last season. 

GOOSEBERRY 

Anthracnose. See Currant. 

Leaf spot. See Currant. 

Powdery mildew (Sphaerotheca Mors- 
uvae) . This disease- may be recognized by 
the powdery white patches occurring on 
leaves, stems and fruit. These patches 
finally turn brown as they run together. 
Sometimes diseased berries are deformed 
and may crack open. Spray with lime 
sulfur (1-40) when the buds open and later 
at intervals of 10 days until four or more 
sprayings have been made. 

GRAPE 

Anthracnose (Gloeosporium ampelo- 
phagum). Small spots with raised borders 
and depressed centers are formed on the 
shoots and tendrils. These enlarge in the 
long direction of the shoots and later the 
center becomes more depressed and grayish. 
On the berries small dark brown spots with 
red border appear; as they enlarge they 
become depressed, but remain circular. 
Cut out and burn diseased wood. Spray 
dormant vines with , lime-sulfur (1-9). 
Spray the vines with Bordeaux mixture 
(5-5-50) first, when the shoots are about 12 
inches long, second, just before the flower 
buds open, and third, just after the blos- 
soms fall. Follow with two more sprayings 
about 10 days apart. 

Black rot (Guignardia Bidwellii) shows 
on berries at first as small blanched areas. 
As the spots increase in size their surfaces 
become sunken and contain numerous small 
black pimples. Usually the entire grape is 
diseased and dries into a hard, shriveled 
mummy. Reddish brown spots appear on 
the leaves. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(5-5-50) as for anthracnose; destroy mum- 
mies; make applications of spray just before 
rains. 

Downy mildew {Plasmopara viticola). 
Appears first on upper side of leaves as small 
yellowish spots, indefinite in outline. As 
these enlarge they turn brown and become 
dry and brittle. On the lower side of the 
spot a downy white growth, noticeable 
especially' in moist weather, appears. 
Other parts of the vines are similarly 
attacked. Plow under old fallen leaves in 
the Spring. Make 5 or 6 applications of 
Bordeaux mixture (5-5-50) beginning just 
before the blossoms open. 



Powdery mildew ( Uncinula necator) . 
Powdery white patches are produced on 
both upper and lower surfaces of the leaves . 
Finally on these white patches small black 
pimple-like bodies develop. Severe attacks 
cause dwarfing of the vines. Dust the 
diseased plants with sulfur from one to six 
times during the season. 

LETTUCE 
Drop (Sclerotinia Libertiana). Cause s 
wilting of the plants which drop to th^ 
ground. White cctton-like growths appear 
on the under side of the leaves. Later small, 
hard, black bodies are formed. Remove 
and burn all diseased plants. Greenhouse 
beds may be disinfected with formaldehyde . 
Very difficult to control especially in field- 
grown lettuce. 

Gray mold (Botrytis sp.). Seldom 
serious in the field. The edges of the outer 
, leaves are first wilted, the wilted patches 
becoming covered with grayish, downy fuzz. 
The whole leaf may be affected and die, the 
disease working slowly toward the center 
of the head. Avoid high temperature, 
excessive moisture and poor ventilation. 

LILAC 

Mildew (Microsphaera Alni). White 
powdery patches form on the leaves. Later 
in the season these become a grayish white 
and bear minute black spherical bodies. 
Dust with sulfur. 

LILY 

Blight (Botrytis sp.). Yellowish brown 
spots appear on the leaves and buds early 
in the Spring. Later these enlarge and 
become covered with a light brown dusty 
mold, which destroys the leaves and blos- 
soms. Remove infected plants and burn. 

MELON 

See Cucumber. 

ONION 

Blight or Downy mildew (Peronospora 
Schleideniana). At first patches of fuzzy 
down cover the affected leaves; these spots 
are soon blanched and in a short time the 
leaves are entirely wilted over. Spray with 
Bordeaux mixture. Not easily controlled. 

Neck rot (Botrytis Allii). Causes a 
rotting of the Onion bulb at the neck, 
accompanied by a grayish fuzz and hard 
black bodies. The disease occurs in the 
field but is particularly severe in storage. 
Remove and destroy diseased plants. Store 
bulbs in a cool, dry, well ventilated place. 
Dry thoroughly before storing. 

Smut ( Urocystis Cepulae) . Attacks 
young seedlings but not (Unions grown from 
sets. Shows on the seedling leaves as 
elongated opaque spots, which finally 
rupture and expose a black powdery mass. 
Drill in formalin (1 pint to 16 gallons) with 
the seed at the rate of 200 gallons per acre. 



PLANT DISEASES 



317 



PEA 

Leaf spots (Ascochyta Pisi). Small, 
circular spots with dark borders and lighter 
centers, bearing small, black pimple-like 
bodies, form on the leaves. Similar spots 
are found upon the pods and stems, which 
also, are attacked. Avoid use of diseased 
seed. 

PEACH 

Brown rot (See Cherry). Dust with 
sulfur and arsenate of lead. Use a 90-10 
mixture. 

Leaf curl (Exoascus deformans). At 
iBrst the new leaves swell and wrinkle, the 
leaf-blade "puckering along the midrib. 
At this time the leaf is pecuUarly colored 
with red and yellow tints. Later the upper 
portions of the affected leaf turn whitish 
and assume a velvety appearance. Spray 
n the Fall or the early Spring before the 
ibuds swell, with lime-sulfur (1-15). Cover 
every bud. 

Yellows (Cause unknown). May be 
recognized by the yellowish color of the 
foliage and the premature development of 
the fruit. The appearance of an excessive 
number of slender yellowish shoots occurs 
in advanced stages of the disease. Destroy 
affected trees. Do not drag them through 
the orchard. 

Scab (Cladosporium Carpophilum) . Oli" 
vaceous to black, scabby patches on the 
fruit and twigs. When severe the spots run 
together. The fruit is often distorted and 
the skin may crack open. Spray with self 
boiled lime-sulfur (8-8-50) four to five weeks 
after the petals fall, and again three weeks 
later, or better, dust with sulfur and arse- 
nate of lead, as for brown rot. 

PEAR 

Fire blight (Bacillus amylovorus) . The 
blossoms, young fruit and twigs appear as if 
burned, but affected leaves remain attached 
to the twigs. Cankers are formed on the 
larger limbs and in the Spring milky drops 
filled with bacteria exude from them. Cut 
out the cankers in the fall and early spring 
and disinfect the wound with corrosive 
sublimate (1-1000). Later paint over 
wounds with coal tar. During the Summer 
remove diseased spurs and twigs as fast as 
they appear and disinfect cut surfaces with 
corrosive sublimate. 

Leaf spot (Mycosphaerella sentina) . 
Small angular spots with definite dark 
colored margins and grayish white centers 
are found on the leaves. Spray with lime- 
sulfur (1-50) just after the petals fall, 
two weeks later, and again in another two 
weeks . 

Scab {VeiUuria Pyrina) . See Apple scab . 
PEONY 

Blight (Botrytis Paeoniae). Causes a 
rotting off of young shoots early in Spring. 
Brownish spots with target board markings 



form on the leaves. ,In moist weather a 
grayish fuzz may be observed upon these 
diseased portions. The same disease blasts 
the buds. Sometimes small black bodies 
are produced on the rotted stems. Remove 
and burn the diseased parts. Spray with 
Bordeaux mixture. 

PLUM 

Black knot (Plowrightia morbosa) . Knots 
from 3^ in. to several inches in length are 
produced on the young twigs. At first 
olivaceous in color, they later turn to a coal 
black. Frequently the twigs on which knots 
form are bent back upon themselves. Re- 
move and burn the knots in the Fall or 
early Winter. 

Brown rot. See Cherry. 

Shot hole (Coccomyces prumophorae) . 
See Cherry. 

POTATO 

Blight (Phytophthora infestans) . Spots, 
black in the center and with a water-soaked 
margin, begin to develop, usually at the tip 
or margin of the leaves. Under moist con- 
ditions a white frost-like down encircles the 
diseased portion. Soon the whole plant 
dies. At this time an offensive odor is 
developed. Spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(5-5-50) when the plants are about 6 in. 
Idgh. Follow with other sprayings about 
10 days apart. Spray just ahead of rain 
periods if possible. 

Rhizoctonia stem rot (Corticium 
vagum). Small, brownish black bodies 
which may be easily removed from the 
skin, form on the surface of the tubers. The 
sprouts often rot before they get through 
the ground. The stem near the ground is 
also attacked and often rotted. Plants 
grown from such seed produce many little 
potatoes. Treat the seed with corrosive 
sublimate (4 ounces to 30 gallons) for 
1}4 hours. 

Scab (Actinomyces scabies) . Rough scabs 
on the surfaces of the potato. Usually the 
margin is raised and the center depressed. 
Avoid the addition of lime or wood ashes 
to the soil. Treat seed with corrosive sub- 
limate solution, (4 ounces to 30 gallons of 
water), for IK hours. 

RASPBERRY 

Anthracnose (Plectodiscella veneta). 
Affects principally the canes, which at first 
show small, purplish elliptical spots. Later 
these become larger and somewhat sunken 
and the centers turn a grayish white. 
Sometimes these spots run together and 
large areas of the stems become diseased. 
Remove diseased canes. Set only plants 
free from the disease. Spray with Bor- 
deaux mixture (4-4-50). 

Orange rust (Gymnoconin inter stitialis) . 
A bright orange colored rust covering the 
under side of the leaves which become dwarf- 
ed and rolled . Dig up and destroy diseased 
plants. 



318 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Leaf spot. See Blackberry. 

ROSE 

Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae). Cir- 
cular or oval black patches with indefinite 
margins on the upper side of the leaves. 
Often whole leaves become covered when 
these spots run together. Affected leaves 
turn yellow and fall prematurely. Spray 
with ammoniacal copper carbonate or dust 
with sulfur. 

Powdery mildew (Sphaerotheca pan- 
nosa). Powdery patches on the leaves and 
sometimes on the young shoots. Dust with 
sulfur. 

Squash. See Cucumber. 

STRAWBERRY 

Leaf spot (Mycosphaerella Fragariae). 
Small red to purplish spots which, as they 
enlarge, become grayish white and papery 
in the center with a purplish border. 
Remove the diseased leaves before sef^ing 
plants and spray with Bordeaux mixture 
(4-4-50). Mow leaves after fruiting and 
burn over the patch. 

SWEET POTATO 

Black rot (Sphaeronema fimbria turn) . 
Dark brown to black patches on the surface 
of the Potatoes indicate rotted portions 
beneath. The affected parts are dry and 
black. Avoid diseased sets and plant in 
soil that is not infested. Practice crop 
dotation. 



Soft rot (Rhizopus nigricans). The 
potatoes become soft and wrinkled and a 
white, moldy growth develops on their 
surface. This later takes on a gray to 
blackish appearance. Store in a cool, 
dry, well ventilated cellar and from time to 
time remove all diseased Potatoes. 



TOMATO 

Blossom end rot. (Cause unknown.) 
A black, dry rot which occurs at the 
blossom end. Greatly influenced by the 
soil moisture. Increase the water holding 
capacity of the soil by proper cultivation, 
irrigation and addition of organic matter. 

Leaf spot (Septoria Lycopersici) . Small 
numerous circular spots with definite 
margins on the leaves. Small, black, 
pimple-like structures develop toward 
their centers. Spray thoroughly with fish 
oil soap-Bordeaux, especially the lower 
surfaces. Remove diseased leaves. 



TULIP 

Blight (Botrytis parasitica). On the 
dormant bulbs as small black bodies about 
the size of pinheads. Causes a spotting of 
the leaves and flowers and finally blights 
them. When the stem is rotted through, 
the plant falls over. A grayish fuzz may 
be seen on affected parts in moist weather. 
Select clean bulbs to set out in the Fall and 
in the Spring remove and destroy any 
diseased plants which may appear. 



For complete works on the subject of this chapter 
we recommend 

DISEASES OF CULTIVATED PLANTS AND TREES, by George Massee. 
A valuable addition to agricultural literature, by the well-known author of "Plant 
World," ''British Fungus Floral," etc. Illustrated. Cloth. 8vo. Price, $2.90 

postpaid. 

DISEASES OF ECONOMIC PLANTS, by F. L. Stevens and J. G. Hall. 
A work designed to meet the needs of those who wish to learn to recognize and 
treat plant diseases without the burden of long study as to their causes. It indicates 
the chief characteristics of the most destructive plant diseases of the United 
States, and gives information regarding the best methods of the prevention and 
cure of these diseases. Illustrated. Cloth. 12mo. Price $2.15 postpaid. 

FUNGOUS DISEASES OF PLANTS, by Benjamin Minge Duggar. Every 
known fungus is classified and named, and numerous illustrations render con- 
siderable assistance to the unorthodox student in fixing identification. The 
principles and methods of soil sterilization are also covered. Price $2.75 postpaid. 
Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

Lawn and Garden Weeds 

THE average table of pests — whether insects, weeds or diseases — 
is arranged alphabetically according to the scientific names of 
the subjects. This is all right for scientists and librarians who 
know these names and are interested more in the classification of the 
troubles than in their cure or prevention. But it is of little value to 
the practical gardener who doesn't care two straws what the Latin 
name of a bug or a weed pest may be, but who is deeply concerned in 
its habits and in the methods by means of which it can be eradicated. 

The following table of the most common lawn and garden weeds 
is therefore made up along new lines. The first column lists the most 
obvious characters of the weeds, whereby the causal observer may 
recognize and begin to identify them. The next column suggests 
their__ distribution; the third, the season when they are in bloom; the 
next, their main habits and means of propagation; the next, brief , 
directions as to how to destroy them; and the last two, their common 
and botanical names (in case the reader desires to look them up in 
other more exhaustive work) . The weeds listed are those which give 
the greatest trouble in gardens, lawns and around homes, rather than 
in meadows, pastures, field crops and waste places. 

Of course, weed destruction in a small garden or on a lawn where 
intensive care can be given and handwork done if necessary, is relatively 
easy. In any case, the principles of weed control are based on (1) 
preventing the plants from maturing and scattering seed; (2) preventing 
the introduction of new weeds, either in seed, manure, etc.; and (3) 
preventing perennial weeds from making any top growth — in other 
words, starving them out. 

Large individual perennials such as Dock, Plantain, etc., and 
even Dandelion can be dug out with little effort and effectually disposed 
of. Annual seed bearing weeds are best controlled by thorough 
cultivation early in the season before the first crop has a chance to 
reseed. Every weed killed in May means hundreds prevented thereafter. 

The biggest problem is encountered in fighting the perennials that 
spread by means of roots tocks and underground stems. Cultivation 
simply cuts up, distributes and helps to multiply these. If possible, 
the best plan is to dig out the entire root system and burn it. Where 
there is too much land for this, pigs will often clean up the weeds in a 
season, or they can be smothered out with a heavy crop of Buckwheat 
or Cabbage. Persistence is essential to success. 

319 



320 



GARDEN GUIDE 



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CHAPTER XXV 

Greenhouses^ Hotbeds and Frames 

Advantages of a Greenhouse — ^What Can be Grown — Green- 
houses for the Amateur — Span-Roofed Houses — Attached Con- 
servatories — ^Heatmg — ^Frames and Their Uses — Management 
of Hotbeds and Coldframes — Useful Little Forcing Structures 

IF we but appreciated a greenhouse at its true value, and knew the 
pleasure as well as the profit that can be derived from the posses- 
sion of even a small one, there would be many more erected. It 
is a standing wonder that in a country so wealthy as om-s there should 
be so few greenhouses attached to the residences of suburban and rural 
homes. A greenhouse of moderate dimensions, 12 ft. long by 8 ft. 
wide, can be had from a few hundred dollars up, and its upkeep will 
be nothing like so much as for an automobile. 

So confident are we as to the pleasure derivable from the green- 
house, especially in the cold Winter months and in the Spring time 
before the ground is warm and dry out of doors, that we most heartily 
urge its consideration on the readers of The Garden Guide. 

Advantages of a Greenhouse 

We merely wish to call attention in this place to the advantages 
of such a house. A succession of flowers can be had during the Winter 
at small cost, either by lifting the Geraniums from out-of-doors in the 
Autunm and potting them up, as well as Salvias and some other 
Summer flowering plants, or by Rowing Httle batches of seeds, or 
planting bulbs and bringing these on graduaUy. We all know how 
difficult it is to make a success of Dutch bulbs in the ordinary dwelling 
house, owing to the dryness of the atmosphere and the fluctuation of 
temperatures. In a greenhouse these conditions can be regulated to 
suit the plants. 

What Can Be Grown 

Among other subjects that can be grown are Chrysanthemums, 
Ferns, Azaleas, Forget-me-nots, Palms, Primroses, Cyclamen, Schizan- 
thus (sometimes called Poor Man's Orchid), Pansies, Sweet Alyssum, 
and a great variety of other stock. One can frequently obtain a slip 
or a seedhng from a friend, and in this way enrich one's little collection. 
There are many plants also that can be raised from seed. 

Little cultural reminders are published in the seed catalogs, or as 
a cultural guide Oliver's "Plant Culture" is recommended. 

322 



1 GEEENHOUSES AND FRAMES S2S 

There are many hardy plants that are usually grown in the rock 
garden that can be placed in what are called flower pans, that is 
receptacles as wide as a 5-in., 6-in., or 7-in. pot, but only 3-in. or 4-in. 
deep — and which can be brought into flower in February, March and 
April in a greenhouse that has no higher temperature than 50 degrees. 

_ Greenhouses for the Amateur 

One well-known firm of greenhouse builders, makes a house 12 ft. 
by 8 ft. in size that is delivered, ready to be screwed together for a 
minimum sum. This smart little house is made of the best air-dried 
Cypress, with iron fixtures, bracers, ventilating push rods, galvanized 
hinges and everything complete, including six heavy iron posts for the 
support of the house. The glass is of the best double thick A quality, 
10-in. wide. The sides are made in two panel sections, each 6 ft. long 
and 4 ft., 8^ in. high. There are two benches, 11 ft., 8 in. long, by 

2 ft., 7 in. wide, allowing for a walk of 2 ft., 4 in. between. Altogether 
one has an indoor garden of nearly 65 sq. ft., and this includes also 
the little heating boiler, or in Southern parts of the country where a 
very little frost is experienced, no heating apparatus may be necessary, 
and the cost would be reduced by $75 . 




A curvilinear roofed, lean-to conservatory by Hitchings & Co., with fmbstantial 

brick foundation 



324 



GARDEN GUIDE 




One of Hitchings' small greenhouses, 10 ft. by 17 ft., suitable for so many 
moderate-sized suburban places 



Of course, more elaborate greenhouses with cement or brick founda- 
tion, and of iron framework with curved eaved glass or in other shapes 
to suit the architecture of the residence, can be erected, but would run 
to considerably more money. 

The greenhouse builders are always willing to give advice, or to 
estimate for the erection of a greenhouse, and it would be well to con- 
sult them whenever a building is contemplated. 

Span-Roofed Houses 

The best results are usually obtained from span-roofed houses run- 
ning east and west, although any light position is satisfactory. The 
site should not be on wet or low ground, nor any very greatly exposed 
place, and the span-roofed type is generally preferred, although lean- 
tos or three-quarter span houses with the long slope to the south, are 
also excellent. 

Attached Conservatories 

Some of the most beautiful, and we would say comfortable, 
conservatories we have seen were attached to the drawing room, 
or led into from the drawing ro(jm, thus making a light, beautiful 
lounge or extra drawing room. A billiard room can be built also in 
contiguity, and if the conservatory is large enough, aviaries, and 
aquaria for fancy fish, may be provided. 



GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES 



325 



In other instances we have seen the conservatory set a little way 
out from the house, and connected with the latter by means of a glass 
corridor. Very beautiful results can be attained by planting vines 
and training them under the roof glass. 

It should be mentioned that many of these greenhouses can be 
used for the growing of Tomato or Melon crops, or for the raising of 
early vegetables in the Spring, if that is thought desirable. 

Heating 

Amateurs' small greenhouses, such as the portable houses, 8 ft. 
3 in. wide and 12 ft. to 20 ft. long, are invariably heated by hot water. 
The boiler is what is known as a Junior, and is usually placed in a 




This exemphfies the beauty and value of a few choice, neat growing evergreens close 
to the house. Dwarf evergreens are also used for filling the window boxes. The sun 
parlor might well have been converted into a conservatory, or one could have been 

attached 



cellar or put at one end of the house. Coils of 2-in. pipe are placed 
under each of the side benches, and these coils are connected to the 
boiler. There is a small open expansion tank at the end of the coils 
to fill the apparatus with water and take care of the expansion of the 
water in the system. The amount of radiation in the coils is generally 
proportioned for a temperature of 60 deg. at night when the merciu'y 
outside is at zero. The boiler is a very compact and efficient heater 
and requires no more attention than an ordinary kitchen stove. 



326 



GARDEN GUIDE 



A greenhouse 18 ft. x 25 ft. has usually three benches (two side 
benches and one center bench) and is heated by coils of pipes placed 
under the side benches only, leaving the space imder center bench 
free so that bulbs or roots of various kind can be stored there. Hot 
water is invariably used for heating, as the boiler requires a great deal 
less attention and a more even temperature can be maintained than if 
steam is used. The usual temperature is 55 to 60 deg., but the coils 
are arranged and valved so that the temperature can be controlled. 




The "King Junior" garden frame made by the King Construction Co., a sort of minia- 
ture greenhouse, the top being on hinges. Being glazed on the sides as well as top the 
plants are afforded every possible bit of sunlight 



m A small, round, hot-water boiler is used for heating the coils. The 
boiler is arranged with a shaking and dumping grate. When the 
heating apparatus is filled with water and the fire started, the water 
circulates through the pipes and maintains the required temperature. 
The entire heating apparatus is simpHcity itself; a child could take 
care of it. 

When the greenhouse is 18 ft, wide and 50 ft. long, a partition can 
be placed in the center, making two compartments, and different 
temperatures can be maintained in each if desired. The compartment 
nearest to the boiler is usually heated to a higher temperature. If 



GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES 



327 



Roses are to be grown in the warmest compartment, it is customary 
to place heating pipes under both side and center benches for bottom 
heat, and to dry out the benches. The heating pipes are so arranged 
and valved in both compartments that the temperature can be con- 
trolled as desired. For heating a greenhouse 18 ft. x 50 ft., a small 
square sectional water boiler is used.* There are no steam gauges or 
complicated fixtures required on a hot-water heating apparatus. 




Section of a hotbed frame with details of measurements. Reproduced 

from a Cornell bulletin 



Frames and Their Uses 

The garden without its quota of frames is like an automobile with- 
out tires; you may run it, but it is hard and slow work to get anywhere 
with it. Frames, properly managed, will accelerate and supple- 
ment the garden throughout the year. The frames (which you can 
build yourself with little trouble if you do not care to buy them) and 
the sash are not expensive. With reasonable care and if kept well 
painted they will last indefinitely. The writer has a sash which has 
been in continuous use for over twenty-two years. Concrete frames are 
growing in popularity, as they can be built at little additional expense 
and will last practically forever. They are tighter and warmer than 
wooden frames, and they do not warp or settle, so that the sash always 
fits them tightly, a very important point. 



328 GARDEN GUIDE 

Standard size sash covers a space 3 by 6 ft. , and the frames to sup- 
port it are made to correspond. In building of wood it is better to use 
2-in. planks, although inch boards are often employed. In building a 
wooden frame, after ascertaining the correct size to fit the particular 
sash you are buying, put in posts of 3 by 4 in. stuff with the inside corner 
planed down for an inch or so, to avoid a sharp edge. There should 
be a drop of about from 3 to 4 in. from the back to the front. If you 
can get boards or planks 6 and 9 in. wide, and 6 or 12 ft. in length, 
practically no cutting will have to be done in building the frame. Let 
the sides come down well below the ground as the soil inside should be 
a few inches below the general ground level. After it is finished, a layer 
of gravel or roofing slate on the outside, or banking up with soil, nearly 
to the top, will greatly increase its efficiency in keeping out cold. 
Concrete frames should be made 4 to 6 in. thick and sunk well below 
the ground level so that the frost cannot get under the mason work. 

At least part of your sash should be of the double'glazed type. Two 
layers of glass instead of one are used, with the result that the thin 
air space left between them forms a 
cushion of dead air which is as effective as 
a blanket of wool or canvas in keeping 
out the cold, while it admits the light 
and sunshine as readily as a single layer 
of glass. With a good tight frame and 
double glass sash, crops may be grown 
well into the Winter, and started 
very early in the Spring, without any 
other protection. ^'"^^ '^""''^^ ^"^"^^ 

With single glass sash, wooden shutters or burlap mats are used as 
an extra covering in cold weather. If these are employed in addition to 
double glass sash, half hardy crops, such as Lettuce, can be carried 
through very severe weather without any artificial heat at all, and the 
frames will be ready for use in the Spring as early as they may be 
wanted, without having to wait for them to thaw out. 

Hotbeds are made one to two feet deeper than for coldframes, to 
allow for the layer of manure put in to furnish the heat. 

Location 

Generally it is best to locate with southern exposure and with a 
protection of trees or fence at north (see p. 330) . Three feet should be 
allowed back of frame to the fence to allow for working facilities. Do 
not put the frame where the Spring rains may drain into it. Good 
drainage is especially important in Winter as well as in Spring. 




GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES 329 

Preparation of Bed 

During Winter deep the snow out by a covering of boards. In 
the middle of March, or six or eight weeks before plants can be safely 
put out of doors, if the bed has been constructed as directed, two feet 
of fresh manure is placed in the frames. Nothing but fresh manure 
will suffice, horse manure being best, which has been piled and turned 
several times to bring to a uniform temperature. As placed in frames, 
the manure should gradually be stamped rather firmly. To insure 
more uniform heating a layer of straw is used to cover the manure. 
Soil which has been stored in basement is then spread over to*a depth 




One of the King Construction Co.'s double-glazed frames, a very valuable type 



of four inches. The soil should be rather sandy and should consist of 
good loam, leaf mold, sand and some well decayed manure. Put on 
the sashes and, as Mrs. Rion, in "Let's Make a Flower Garden," says: 
"Let her biJe." It will steam tremendously for four or five days, then 
it gets down to regular business of more or less even heat. There are 
nice thermometers to be had to take the bed's temperature; find out 
when its fever has dropped below ninety degrees; then you know it is 
t me to go ahead and plant. 



330 GARDEN GUIDE 

Another sort of hotbed may be constructed by placing a coldframe : 
upon a heap of manure which in the "colder regions should be a foot 
and a half thick when packed rather firmly. Hotbeds can be easily 
heated by running a pipe from the heating plant of the house into 
the frame which can be located near the house. 

Management of Hotbeds and Coldframes 

Radish, Lettuce, Cabbage, Tomato, Cauliflower, Aster, Pansy, 
Scarlet Sage, Verbena, and such seeds, are planted in rows, several 
inches apart. The ventilation of the frame must be carefully attended 




A well-sheltered line of coldframes facing due south. How invaluable they are 



to and if moisture condenses on the glass the sash should be lifted 
a trifle on the side away from the prevailing wind. Sashes should be 
capable of being raised at any angle. Much damage can be done 
by leaving the frame closed tightly on sunny days, for the crops are 
- easily burned. 

The watering should be done on sunny mornings. When the 
plants have produced their third leaf they should be transplanted, 
according to their various needs. Lettuce will, perhaps, be matured 
in the frames and will need to stand eight inches apart, while Tomatoes 



GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES 



331 



may be set out three inches apart and transplanted again. On real 
cold nights the hotbeds should be covered with some sort of mat, 
either of straw or padded cloth. 

Prof. Wilkinson of Cornell University gives the following discussion 
of vegetable combinations that can be grown in a hotbed: 



3' 



^ or rrppr^s 

S or T0/^/J70£S 

/ jRou/ crirjRr 
/ row m/oA^s^ 



/ row oA//o/^s ^ 
/ /^ow c/!rro7s 

/ ROW asrrs 

/ row srrrs^ 

/ row /?/j/?/s// ^ 
/ row ry4£>/s// ^ 



/ row irrr^/cr 




B^c/< or sro 



□ 



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— 7'- 



m m \& (< 



@ © @ @ @ 



3 rz^/v/< 



4- 



— "0 

4' 



rroA/r or sro 

Plan for the planting of a hotbed. The frame is 3 ft. wide by 5 ft. 103^^ in. long 



332 



GARDEN GUIDE 



1 



"Radishes, Lettuce, Beets and Carrots seem well adapted for 
growing together, while Tomatoes, Egg Plants and Peppers, although 
they can be raised with the others, will grow better if given a higher 
temperature than, and conditions sHghtly different from, those required 
by the first four plants named. Through experience the various 
requirements of different plants will become known to the grower. 

"A good plan for planting a hotbed for the home garden is shown 
on page 331. The, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Tomatoes and Lettuce that 
are transplanted to this bed can be first raised in a small flat, which is a 
wooden box twelve inches wide, eighteen inches long outside and 
two and one-half inches deep, filled with dirt, either earlier in this 
bed, in another ted, or in the house at a sunny window or behind the 
stove. Other plants, such as Radishes, Beets and Carrots are sown 
for maturing in this bed. For the best results they will require thin- 
ning, the Beet thinnings being used as greens. The seed of Celery 
and of Onions is sown and the seedhngs are transplanted later. 

"After the Lettuce plants have been disposed of, one row of 
Cucumber seeds may be planted, the plants being thinned later to 
six inches apart. Cucumbers may be planted also after the pots at 
the back of the bed are removed. The Cucumber plants are then 
allowed to spread at will and to mature a crop of Cucumbers for slicing 
or for other uses as required. 

"After one crop is taken out another can follow, the soil in the 
bed being forked over and raked level between crops, and after th^ 
manure is spent the bed can be used for the development of vege- 
tables throughout the Summer. In the Fall the soil and the spent 
manure -is taken out of the hotbed pits, the sash is stored away, and 
the board covering is replaced for Winter protection. Fresh manure 
is used every Spring, also fresh soil, the process of making and manag- 
ing the hotbed changing only as the operator becomes more experienced 
in successful hotbed work." 

The same treatment should be given coldframes, except that they 
cn not be started so early. 

Useful Little Forcing Structures 

The gardner's inventive genius will devise a hundred ways of 
growing the earliest possible plants out of doors. He will use boxes 
with glass lids and butter bell-jars. Finally, he will see the advantage 
of a small individual roldframe and will have small coldframes one or 
two feet square constructed, in which he can cultivate Cantaloupes, 
Cucumbers, early Peppers, Squash, Lima Beans. 



GREENHOUSES AND FRAMES 



833 




The '*Gro Quick" Forcer. A miniature 
greenhouse, complete in itself 



Th6 Clotihe Co. has de- 
vised a very ingenious plant 
forcer made of glass held to- 
gether by wires. They are sun 
catchers and should be a great 
factor for early results. It is 
a handy and useful method 
of growing vegetables under 
what it calls "cloches." 

There is a system of forc- 
ing under bell-jars called 
"French gardening." It takes a great deal of labor and a very per- 
fect condition of soil, but enormous crops are grown on small areas. 
Those who are interested in vegetable growing should read about this 
French system of gardening. 

A new type of frame, which is practically a miniature greenhouse, 
can now be bought. (See illustration page 326.) Double glazed 
sash are also used, and a miniature heating plant can be operated in cold 
weather in a little enclosure at one end of the frame. This does 
away with the inconvenience and the trouble of procuring and handling 
manure to furnish artificial heat. 

The satisfaction that you will get from your frames will depend 
upon your carefulness in planning their use. Look ahead and have one 
crop growing and ready to occupy frame space as fast as another is 
removed. Thus, in the Fall, you should start Lettuce in August or 
early September to be large enough to set in the frames as soon as 
frosty weather arrives. Radishes can be planted and half -grown 
before it is necessary to put on the glass. Lettuce started in January 
or February in the hotbed or in the house will be ready to set out in 
the frames in February or March. Cucumbers or Melons started in 
paper pots can be set into frames after the Spring grown plants are 
removed, weeks earlier than they can be put out of doors. Plan always 
for a succession of crops in your frames, just as you do in your garden. 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
Chapter we recommend 
GREENHOUSES; THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND EQUIPMENT 
by W. J. Wright. Opens with a chapter on the cormtruction of sash beds, 
and continuing with much valuable information concerning the location, 
adaptation, general construction and equipment of greenhouses as will enable 
the reader to decide upon the type of house best adapted to his needs. The en- 
deavor has been to make the volume of service to the present owner of a green- 
house and to those who may contemplate building, whether it be a small 
private house or a large commercial range. There are sixteen chapters de- 
voted to structural material, methods of erecting the framework, glazing 
and painting, ventilation, machinery, heating, boilers, fuels, concrete con- 
struction, water supply, plans and estimates. 268 pages, cloth. Price, 
$1.90 postpaid. Secure your copy where you bought your Garden Guide 



CHAPTER XXVI 



Garden Tools 

THE presence of a garden always carries with it the need for some 
tools. The first tools needed, perhaps, are a spade, fork, rake, 
trowel for transplanting, hoe, sickle for trimming grass, and 
a watering can. In all of these tools nothing is more important than 
their strength. Strong unions of the steel to the wood are important, 
for it is here that the tool breaks most quickly. All the tools that are 
meant to be sharp should be kept so, or else their work cannot be done 




Two lawn beaters or Light ladder End posts and wir^s 

levelers and a garden used for or strings used for 

roller gathering fruit Pea or Bean supports 



efficiently. The spading fork is especially useful in digging up borders 
and about trees, as it does not cut off roots. If a half-moon turf 
cutter is not available, the spade is indispensable for edging beds. 
Large and small hoes are both useful, the large one for general use, and 
the small one for working about in small places. The Dutch or EngUsh 
scuffle hoe is most useful for loosening the surface of the soil and cutting 




^334 



GARDEN TOOLS 



335 




A broad -wheeled barrow 




Dibbles. The small ones are safest 
unless the soil is loose and spongy 




Shows a device for hoisting a barrel 
up steps or incline 




Shelves and temporary storage box 
for fruit 




frame barrow for leaves, grass or 
similar material 




Planet Jr. No. 11 Double Wheel Hoe, 
complete with accessories 



336 



GARDEN GUIDE 




A little frame against a basement 
window 



off weeds . A small hand cultivator 
is now on the market having prongs 
which are easily removed or of which 
the cutting angle may be changed. 

Many will feel that a wheel 
hoe is a very useful accessory tool; it 
will certainly come in handy, and 
can be used for hoeing, cultivating, 

furrowing, hiUing up or raking. Combination seed drills and wheel hoes 
are also very serviceable. For the larger vegetable garden the seed 
drill is most useful. With a seed drill the furrow can be opened, 
the seed sown, covered, the soil compacted over the row and the next 
row marked. 

A wheelbarrow will surely be wanted; a good type 
is shown in the sketch. Some wheelbarrows are poorly 
balanced and are difficult to handle in the garden. 

Small dibbles of different sizes for making holes 
are popular with many but they should be used with 
caution in heavy soils that are likely to be compacted 
by their use. Often a narrow bladed trowel is a safer 
and more efficient tool. 

Pruning shears which are procured at ridiculously 
low prices are never worth anything. 
They are not sharp and injure the 
plants because in attempting to cut a 
branch, it is pinched and crushed. 
Good steel shears should be chosen fitted 
with strong springs which will cause 
them to open after cutting. The larger 
hedge and grass shears should also have 
these springs, otherwise they are a 
nuisance. 

For the lawn we need as well as 
the standard ball-bearing lawn mower, 
a narrower one for trimming the edges; 
if you have much lawn you will appre- 
ciate the value of this machine for trim- 
ming to the very edge. A wooden leaf 
rake or one of those with bent wire 
teeth will enable you to keep the lawn 
neat without tearing the turf as usually 
Tall and short supports for Beans ^^curs when the ordinary Steel rake is 

other climbing plants used . 



1 






GARDEN TOOLS 



337 




LABELS FOR FRUIT 
TREES 

The top two are of thin 
strips of copper or tin; the 
largest one is of wood, while 
a third is shown in a sealed 
bottle 




Showing how simply a shade or 
protecting cover can be unrolled 




Two pairs are really necessary — one for 
* light and one for heavy work 




Approved form of Asparagus Knife 



Hand Trowel — ^The best obtain ■ 
able is none too good 



p., 





Shade for young plants and seedlings 



338 



GARDEN GUIDE 



in 




To keep the rows 
straight in the vege- 
table garden, a good 
stout garden line is 
necessary. 

For cutting glasS 
to be used in the hot- 
beds a glass cutter 
should be at hand. 
Very cheap steel ones 
can be bought, as well 
as better ones with 
diamond points. It 
is a rather simple 
matter to cut glass 
if a flat surface is 

available. The main object is to get a deep, 
cut entirely across the glass. 

Gloves are needed when pruning Roses and other 
thorny plants. Perhaps old discarded ones are as good 
as anything bought for the purpose. In this con- 
nection, too, keep a stout pair of heavy, loosefitting 
boots handy to be slipped on whenever there is garden 
work to be done. Low shoes, sneakers, etc., may seem more suitable 
for hot weather, but avoid them. They are continually filling up with 
pebbles and gravel and in wet weather, in the early morning, or when 
you are using the hose they are no protection whatever. When 
you garden dress for it; it pays. 

Here is a suggestive list of some really necessary tools: 

Garden Requisites 

—Hoe, Ordinary and Scuffle 



Scuffle hoes of different patterns 



even 



Pruning 
Saw 



Bellows, Powder ^ 
Dibber 

Forks, Hand Weeding and 

Spading 
Garden Line 
Glass Cutter 
Glazing Points 
Gloves 

Grafting Tool 
Grass Hook (Sickle) 
Grass Edging Knife 



Shovel, Square Pointed 
Spade 

Sprayers, Hand and Auto- 
matic 

Thermometer, for Hotbed 
Torch, Asbestos (for burn- 
ing out insect nests) 
Trowel, Transplanting 
Watering Pot 
Weeder, Hand 
Wheelbarrow 



Hose 

Lawn Mower 

Lawn Roller, Water Ballast 
Lawn Sprinkler 
Lawn Trimmer and Edger 
Rake 

Saw, Pruning 

Combination Seeder, Wheel 

Hoe, Cultivator, etc. 
Shears, Pruning 

Nearly every seed store handles these supplies and lists them, so before making pur- 
chases readers should look over their seedsman's catalog, and in the case of the beginner 
it will pay to consult the seedsman personally as to the best tools for his primary needs. 

Additional Requirements. A wire cutter will quite frequently be found of service. 
A measuring rod can be manufactured at home for marking the distance between rows and 
the distance between the larger plants. A supply of raffia or soft twine, for tying up 
plants to stakes, etc., is an essential. No gardener with a plot over 25 x 40 ft. should be 
without that greatest of labor saving devices, the Combination Seeder, Wheel Hoe,^ 
Cultivator, etc. Have your seedsman show you the many excellent models of this really " 
wonderful implement, which can be bought in all combinations and at varying prices. 



CHAPTER XXVII 



Calendar of Garden Operations 

THE [suggestions for the work for the various months must 
I always of course be merely approximate. Seasons govern 
land operations; latitude and altitude have also a wonderful 
influence on thg climatology of a given place. 

Prof. J. W. Lloyd, of the University of Illinois, in his book on 
Vegetable Growing, makes three sections, the Central, Northern and 
Southern, but says that no absolute boundaries can be ascribed, 
one merging into another in a general way. For example, the terri- 
tory lying between the 37 and 42 degrees parallels of latitude may be 
considered as essentially Central, while the area north of the 42 
degree may be considered Northern, and that South of the 37 parallel 
Southern. These boundaries refer only to relatively low elevations, 
and do not apply in the high altitudes of mountainous regions. 

Calendar for Northern and Middle States 

January 

This is the month for planning ahead; think over the alterations 
you are going to make in the garden, the purchase of new plants 
and stock. It is also the month for the ordering of early seeds, and 
for looking over catalogs. The pruning of some outdoor shrubs may 
be done (see Pruning, p. 259) as well as of fruit trees, if the weather 
allows. Keep snow from specimen evergreens. 

Give air to coldframes whenever the temperature is well above 
the freezing point. Take Asparagus and Rhubarb to greenhouse for 
forcing, and place them under the stages. Sow Lettuce, Cauliflower, 
Cabbage, Onion and Leek under glass. 

February 

Sweet Peas may be sown in pots in the greenhouse or in frames 
if they are intended for exhibition. Keep Violet plants clean, and 
begin taking runners for the supply of new plants for next year. 
Stakes and labels may be got ready for Spring and Summer. Collect 
hotbed material. Spray fruit trees against San Jose scale. 

339 



340 



GARDEN GUIDE 



March 

Pruning may be dope on Catalpas, Hibiscus, Vines. By the end 
of the month protective material may l)e taken away from most of 
the shrubs. Lawns should be swept, rolled, re-seeded and top dre«sed . 
Pansies, Daisies, dwarf Phlox may be planted at the end of the month. 
About the 17th make a hotbed. Sow seeds of annuals and perennials, 
especially Asters, Begonias, Cobaea scandens, Coleus, Gypsophila, 
Nicotiana, Petunia, Phlox, Ricinus, Salvia, Verbena, Zinnia, in the 
greenhouse or in frames. Sow in the greenhouse or hotbed. Peppers, 
Egg Plant, Tomato, Cucumber and Melon. 

April 

Set out plants of Cabbage, CauHflower, Celery, Kohl-Rabi, Leek, 
Lettuce from frames. 

Set out plants of Alyssum, EngUsh Daisy, Dianthus, Myosotis, 
Pansy. Also sow in frames seeds of above and Asters, Candytuft, 
Celosia, Centaurea, Dianthus, Dimorphotheca, Eschscholtzia, Holly- 
hocks, Marigold, Morning Glory, Nasturtium, Poppies, Pyrethrum, 
Sweet Peas, Sweet William. Seedlings sown in March need trans- 
planting. Make cuttings of all house plants that will stand it, such as 
Geraniums, Coleus, Begonias. Give them an indoor start. Sow out- 
side Beets, Carrots, Corn (extra early), Kohl-Rabi, Leek, Lettuce, 
Onions, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Potatoes, Radish, Salsify, Spinach, 
Swiss Chard, Turnips. 

Divide perennials and plant others received from nurseryman. 
Plant shrubs and evergreens. Plant Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plum 
trees, Currants, Gooseberries, Strawberries. Plant Beans, Corn and 
Cucumbers, Melons, Pumpkins, when Apples bloom. Give the 
Rhubarb some manure and nitrate and cover with box to keep it 
tender. 

Asparagus: Dig in the mulch and give nitrate and other fertilizer. 
Leave a few stalks for beetle traps. Prune hedges. 

♦ 

May 

Frames need attention to watering and ventilation. Sow seeds for 
late crops of Cabbage and CauHflower. Nothing is gained by setting 
out Egg Plants and Peppers too soon. Wait until it is really warm 
before removing from coldframes. You can keep the soil between the 
Onion and Carrot rows stirred if you have planted Radishes between 
and can see where the rows are. 

Spray fruit. Plant Gladiolus till late in June. Plant about 
four inches deep. DahUas may be planted for later blooming. 



CALENDAR OF GARDEN OPERATIONS 341 



When planting be sure to divide Gannas. 

In the region of Gentral New York it is hardly safe to set out any 
.bedding stock before May 30. A frost usually comes quite near this 
date. Roses bought from nurserymen can be set out. 

Spray Gurrants with arsenate of lead wash, against caterpillars. 

Plant Gladiolus, tuberous-rooted Begonias, Galadiums, Gannas, 
Tuberose, Madeira vine. Start Asparagus seed to keep up your 
stock. Put up window boxes, porch boxes, hanging baskets. 

Make another sowing of all crops already sown. Sow early Gorn, 
Gucumber, Melon and Squash. Thin crops to prevent overcrowding. 
Examine Peach trees for borers. Spray for codlin moth as soon as 
Apple blossoms have fallen. Dust with hellebore powder for cater- 
pillars on Gooseberries. 

June 

Dahlias may be planted up to the middle of the month. Tender 
or half hardy annuals can be sown out-of-doors. Plant out tender 
Water Lilies. Spray against Rose bugs and aphis. Tie climbing 
Roses and vines. Keep all land well cultivated. See that recently 
planted trees are kept watered. Evergreens may require to be sprayed 
with clear water to prevent wilting. Lawns also may require watering. 
German Iris can be divided and replanted at the end of the month. 
Make successional sowings of desired vegetables. Sow Sweet Gorn 
for September; also start Gabbage and Brussels Sprouts for Autumn 
use. Store away temporary frames and sashes. 

July 

Some pruning can be done to certain shrubs (see Pruning chapter) 
that have flowered, but this should mostly be done merely to thin the 
growths and allow room for the development of new ones, as in the 
case of the Flowering Gurrant, climbing Roses, Spiraea Thunbergii 
and Vanhouttei, Galycanthus florida. Give herbaceous borders and 
flower beds constant cultivation. Staking must be done wherever 
plants require it. Trim lawns and hedges. Divide Japanese Iris. 
Remove seed pods from Rhododendrons. Keep everything well 
watered. Gultivate thoroughly. Plant Sweet Gorn and Beans for 
use in late September. Plant out late Tomatoes, Gelery, Gabbage 
and Brussels Sprouts. Sow Endive for use in Fall. 

August 

Evergreens may be moved now. Transplant Iris, Peonies, Oriental 
Poppies and Madonna Lilies. Spray Box plants for red spider. Dust 
the lawn with bonemeal after a rain, or after watering it thorough y. 



342 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Last planting of Beans can be sown, Carrots and Beets also. Sow 
late varieties of Peas. Sow Spinach. Look over the Cabbage before 
it heads, for Cabbage worm and hand pick. Onions are gathered 
near the last of the month. Order bulbs. (Read chapter on Bulbs.) 
Keep runners of Strawberries cut. Early in month sow perennials 
in some sort of frame. Cut flowers to prolong the season of blooming. 

September 

New lawns msTy be made. Shrubs or trees may be transplanted 
at the end of the month. Cuttings can be taken of Geraniums, and 
some other bedding plants, and seeds of perennials and biennials 
sown. Plant early Dutch bulbs. Begin to blanch late Celery with 
soil or brown paper. Dig late Potatoes and harvest the Onions that 
were grown from seed. 

October 

Dutch bulbs can be planted this month; the sooner they are 
planted the longer period they have for rooting before Winter starts 
and the better the results. Seedhngs of hardy plants may be trans- 
planted, and hardy borders can be re-made. This is also a good 
month for the thinning out of the branches of fruit trees before the 
leaves fall. Collect leaves for the making of leaf mold, or for pro- 
tection purposes. Collect Corn stalks. Roses can be planted. 
Prepare compost pile for hotbed or greenhouse for Winter and Spring 
and take under cover. ^ Place Parsley plants in frames for Winter 
use. Blanch Endive. 

November 

Leaves can still be collected. Plant bulbs, trees and shrubs, 
as well as hardy plants. By the end of the month protective 
material should be placed around the Rhododendrons, Hydrangeas 
and other shrubs. Dig up Cannas and .Dahlias and store them. 
Take in Bay trees and Cacti to shelter. Store Potatoes and all root 
crops. Clean up generally. Dig some Rhubarb before ground freezes 
hard. 

December 

Tie up evergreens. Knock snow off branches of large trees. 
Protection may be given to shrubs or plants that are reputedly not 
altogether hardy. Ventilate frames on every good day. Protect 
Celery and such other crops as may be in the open ground. Look 
over and clean and oil all tools. Roots, fruits and stock in storage 
may be looked over occasionally during winter. This is the period 
when we look back, next month we look fowardi 



GARDEN GUIDE 

1 




CALENDAR OF GARDEN OPERATIONS 345 



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CHAPTER XXVni 



Animal Life in the Garden 

Poultry Possibilities — Pigeons — ^Bees — Rabbits — Larger Animals 

TOO many gardeners have the idea that all animals are abomi- 
nations and that it is impossible for any home plot to include 
vegetable and flower gardens and harbor animals or poultry 
at the same time without disastrous results. Of course, a flock of 
hungry chickens unrestrained and a newly planted seedbed are a 
bad combination; likewise a froHcsome puppy can do inestimable 
damage to an herbaceous border. But handled rightly, a moderate 
number of the right sort of creatures can actually increase the pro- 
ductivity of a garden and prove a valuable asset of a suburban or 
country home that cannot afford to be overlooked in these days of 
the high cost of hving by purchase. 

Poultry Possibilities: Comfortable, weather-tight quarters and 
adequate, securely enclosed yardage or range are essential features 
of modern, .successful poultry keeping, no matter on what scale. 
The waste from the garden and the cooked vegetable refuse from the 
house supplement such conditions with food material that is essential 
to perfect health and maximum production, for which the flock pays 
in eggs and in fertilizer, poultry manure being a very rich, easily 
handled plant food. Moreover, early in the Spring and late in the 
FaU, when the garden is being spaded or plowed or the crops harvested, 
the fowls can safely be permitted to run over the newly turned ground 
where they will do a tremendous service in devouring injurious insects. 
In this respect ducks, too, are of considerable value, especially in 
destroying Asparagus and Potato beetles. 

Pigeons cannot be accused of injuring the garden in any way, 
but on the contrary they, too, are a source of valuable manure, bird 
guano being one of the old standbys in agricultural practice, especiaUy 
as a source of nitrogen. Since they can be kept in the loft of a barn 
or shed, they need not even reduce the space available for gardening 
activities. 

Bees: If you or your family or your friends are fond of honey — 
the real, pure thing; if you enjoy the peaceful, happy sight and sound 
of humming visitors among the flowers; if you want to be sure of 
maximum crops of tree fruits, Melons, Tomatoes and all other prod- 
ucts of which the flowers depend entirely or largely upon insect 

34G 



ANIMAL LIFE IN THE GARDEN 



347 



poUenation, and if you are interested in the possibility of netting a 
comfortable sum each year at the cost of an occasional hour or two 
of pleasant, not difficult or heavy work — ^then plan to add to your 
garden features some colonies of bees. The initial expense is not 
heavy. Twenty-five dollars will provide you with a full equipment 
of tools, a colony of bees including a queen, a completely fitted hive 
and two more hives to keep in reserve for future swarms. It is not 
unusual for a colony to double, that is, to produce another by swarm- 
ing each year, in addition to yielding from 25 to 50 or more pounds 
of honey a season, depending upon the weather, etc. The bees get 
their food from flowers over a range of several miles so you are not 
required to feed them except in emergencies, when a little sugar 
sirup or surplus honey may be given them. As suggested they 
poUenate the blossoms of fruits and vegetables and insure heavy sets 
that could not be duplicated even by extensive, costly hand poUen- 
izing. And contrary to many opinions, they are quiet, peaceable if 
not tormented, easily managed by one who knows what he is doing 
and how to do it, and altogether offer an appropriate and highly 
desirable feature to be included in the home orchard or even the small 
home garden. More home gardens should have their apiaries for the 
sake of both the pleasure and the profit they offer. 

Rabbits: While it is probably true that many exaggerated and 
unfounded claims have been made as to the money making possi- 
biUties of rabbit culture, at the same time a few hares, like a small 
flock of poultry, can be kept on the small place at small expense and 
little trouble, with benefit to the owner in several ways. Rabbit 
meat is a real delicacy and under home garden culture conditions can 
be produced very reasonably; rabbits will consume much of the waste 
green matter from the garden, save the trouble of getting rid of it, and 
turn it into delicious meat; a rabbit hutch und pens take up but httle 
room; the care of rabbits is an interesting task for the boys and girls 
in the family; and surplus stock can easily be sold, either in the market 
or as breeding stock to others who want to take up the work. Like 
chickens, rabbits running wild can soon damage garden crops to a 
discouraging extent. But such results can easily be prevented by 
foresight and attention. 

Larger Animals: As consumers of waste products and as a source 
of valuable manure, pigs are almost invariably to be found on com- 
mercial truck farms or vegetable growing establishments. Whether 
conditions (including local statutes) make it possible for you to keep 
a porker or two on your home grounds to serve these same ends, 
you must decide for yourself. However, it is well to remember that 



3^8 



GARDEN GUIDE 



rightly cared for a pig is neither as dirty, odorous or otherwise 
offensive as you might think; that garden truck and kitchen garbage 
provide a good ration which need be reinforced only by occasional 
grain mashes, ear corn, etc.; that at the end of the Summer it can 
be sold or butchered to supply a good part of the Winter's pork, 
ham and bacon; and that w^ith barnyard manure selling — ^when 
obtainable — at $o or more per load, the cleanings of the pig pen will 
add many dollars to the value of the compost heap to be spread on 
next season's garden. 

Another farm animal that can be brought within the confines of 
a small place is the milk goat. This, too, will consume all the Beet 
tops. Pea and Bean vines, waste Cabbage leaves, etc., and all the 
clean, vegetable refuse from the table. Also it provides from one 
to four or five quarts of rich, delicious milk per day for anywhere 
from six or eight to ten or even more months at a stretch. The milk 
goat is also a quaint, docile, companionable animal, not difficult to 
care for, and requiring, not a wide pasture, but only a patch of road- 
side or scrubby ground where it can be tethered to browse. In view 
of the newly proven facts as to the essential nature of milk and milk 
products in our diet, it would seem advisable for more gardeners to 
think about the addition of a little "goat dairying" to their agri- 
cultural activities. 



For books treating fully on subjects mentioned in this chapter, 
we recommend: 

THE HOME PO ULTR Y BOOK , by E.I. Farrington . Here is just the book for 
the person who wants to keep a few hens to supply fresh eggs for the table. No 
elaborate systems or expensive fixtures are advocated, but the author gives specific 
information concerning every phase of poultry keeping. Illustrated. 184 pages, 
bound in cloth, 32 full pa^e illustrations. 12mo. Price, $1.35, postpaid. 

PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This is a book for both fancier and 
market breeder. Full descriptions are given of the construction of houses, the care 
of birds, preparation for market and shipment and of the various breeds with 
their markings and characteristics. Price, $1.35, postpaid. 

QUIMBY'S NEW BEE-KEEPING, by L. C. Root. The mysteries of bee- 
keeping explained. Combining the result of 50 years' experience with the latest 
discoveries and inventions and presenting the most approved methods, forming a 
complete work. Illustrated. 271 pages. ^5x7 in. Cloth, Price, $1.65, postpaid. 
Secure your copies where you bought your Garden Guide. 



CHAPTER XXIX 



Birds in the Garden 

Best Type of Bird Houses — ^Feeding the Birds — Berry-bearing Shrubs 

Mr. Chas. Livingston Bull, than whom no 
one is better acquainted with the birds and 
their habits, furnishes us excellent directions 
'for making them tenantable homes, as follows: 

The bluebird and wren are the easiest to 
satisfy as to the outward appearance of the • 
house; probably nine out of ten native birds 
living in artificial nesting sites are bluebirds. 
Almost any box, if only it has a space at least 
four and one-half inches high by the same 
width, and a length of seven inches or more, 
with a hole about one and one-half inches in 
diameter, preferably round, at the end and not 
too low down in that end, with some sort of perch just bejpw it, will 
please the bluebird. As to outside finish, the more it looks like some 
natural object the more sure it will be to attract the little bluecoats. 

The most successful bluebird box of w hich I have knowledge was a 
section of a hollow limb, in which a woodpecker had cut a little round 
hole into the cavity. This Kmb, about seven inches in diameter, had 
been sawed from the tree and a section about two feet long containing 
the cavity, bad been cut out and wired to the branch of an old Pear 
tree. This was used every year by a pair of bluebirds, and most years 
two broods were raised. Think of the thousands of -fruit worms and 
curcuhos and other insects that went to feed the broods in that nest 
year after year! 

I have duplicated that nest a number of times simply by cutting a 
section of a branch or small trunk, seven or eight inches thick and a 
foot long, boring a hole with an inch and a half bit half way through, 
near one end, then hollowing out a chamber, either by sawing a slab 
off one side, which is tacked or wired on again after the chamber 
(about 5x5x8) is hollowed out, or by sawing a section for a cap two 
inches thick from the end farthest from the entrance hole and then 
drilling or turning out, the hollow and closing the end with the cap, 
carefully tacked on. This house should be hung horizontally. 

If a box is to be used as the foundation of a bluebird house, cover it 
with bark or make it of slabs with the bark on, or at the very least, 

349 




The Bluebird 

•'Typical of all that is 
pleasing in bird life gen- 
erally" 
Courtesy U. S. Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 755 



350 



GARDEN GUIDE 




The House Wren 

"Whose bubbling song is 
such a joy all through the 

Spring and Summer" 
Courtesy U. S. Farmers' 
Bulletin, No. 755 



stain it a dark grayish brown, and if the pro- 
portions are right, the birds will do their part. 

Bluebirds like to nest rather low. The 
house should be placed either on a pole in the 
garden, about seven or eight feet above the 
ground, or on a tree branch, perhaps a httle 
higher. The pole or branch should be so slen- 
der that a cat would not venture to climb it, 
that is, not more than one and one-half inches 
thick; and if a pole, preferably some smooth, 
hard wood like a rake handle or the thick end 
of a bamboo fish pole. 

The wren, whose bubbling song is such a 
joy all through the Spring and Summer, does not get here so early as 
the bluebird and might easily find all the nesting sites occupied, 
were it not for one thing. His tiny body will squeeze in where no 
sparrow or starling or bluebird could obtrude, and while he might try 
the bluebird box, the first pair of bluebirds or sparrows to come along 
would surely oust him. 

An entrance hole one inch in diameter is the solution, and if the 
interior is* no more than three and one-half or four inches square by six 
inches long, the larger bird will not even look in more than once. 

Wrens have been known to nest in many curious places, such as the 
sleeve of an old coat, an old boot, a bomb shell, a pump, an empty 
tomato can, and perhaps the most curious of all, a human skull. 

The great majority of wrens, however, nest in a hollow limb or tree 
trunk, and naturally the bird house which most resembles such a loca- 
tion will be the most likely to attract these tireless little bug hunterst 
The ideal box would be the one which most nearly resembles a big kno. 
on the side of the tree trunk. 

A bluebird does not seem to care how 
exposed the house may be to the sun, in fact, 
he rather likes an open situation, but I have 
yet to see a wren's nest where the entrance 
was not well shaded, so, to guard against the 
gardener, who might not know this pecuHarity 
of the cunning httle brown fellow, the bird 
house man should provide a good overhang to 
the roof of the wren house, also a little perch ^j^^ Robin 

just below that entrance hole and be sure "How cheery his song at 
once more that same entrance hole'is round f''^ f 

J ^, . Courtesy Natl Ass n of 

ana no more than an mch m diameter. A Audubon Societies 




BIRDS IN THE GARDEN 



351 



couple of designs for bird houses which have been successful are 
shown on this and following pages. 

Writing of the robin, Mr. Bull continues: 

How cheery is his morning song just at the first peep of day. And 
how sweet his long evening song which he keeps up till 
long after sunset. And how weatherwise he is. 

When he flies up to the topmost branch of his pet tr^ 
and calls his "twill-rain!" "twill-rain!" 
you may be very sure the garden will be 
sprinkled without overworking the water 
meter. How fat and cheerful he looks as 
he hops over the lawn; stopping now and 
again to yank out a great fat worm, pos- 
sibly as long as himself. He will be glad 
to nest in your garden and if you have a 
large tree he will usually nest in that, but 
so many trees have no suitable forks. 
He would be most pleased to 
nest on a shelf under the eaves 
of your house, but so many 
houses have no shelf there . Or 
under the porch roof, if he 
could find a good place. But 
most houses are so built that 
there is no suitable location 
for him, and so there have been many attempts to 
construct locations which might attract him. 

He will not enter a hole. No box or house for 
him ! It must be in the form of a shelf, preferably 
with a cover. It must be open on at least two 
sides and should have a low, raised rim around the 
edge to keep the nest from being blown or washed 
off. It should have a roof, too, for while the 
great majority of robin nests are in trees, and in 
rather open situations at that, when they can find 
a good situation on a house it will nearly always 
be under some sort of overhang. 

The shelf might be hung right on the side of 
the house, preferably on the east or west side, 
not on the south unless the location is partially shadt^d. It should 
hang so rigidly that no severe wind will swing it too hard, prefer- 
ably by two screw eyes. The roof should have enough pitch and 
overhang so as to shed most of the rain and yet^not^too much. 




A serviceable bluebird 
house. Make box as 
shown in sketch, pre- 
ferably of slab wood, 
especially top. If im- 
possible to secure wood 
with bark attached, 
stain dark grayish 
brown. Box is fast- 
ened to pole by strip 
of sheet iron screwed 
on back of box and 
screwed to pole 



352 GARDEN GUIDE 

I have never seen a robin's nest less 
than 8 feet above the ground and usually 
they are much higher; so hang it fairly 
high, beside or under a second-story 
window -would be a good place; and, if 
there are vines, so much the better. If 
it must be in the garden, then put it on 
a tree 10 feet from the ground or on a 
pole among the twigs and leaves of some 
shrub or bush 10 feet high. The most 
successful robin shelves are those 7 
inches square with a rim 1 inch high and Yi inch wide around the open 
sides, making an inside measurement of 6 inches square. The back 
and one side closed; the whole stained brownish gray or to match the 
side of the house where it is to hang. The roof is preferably a piece of 
wood with the bark on and should be 4 inches above the platform at 
the lowest point and should have an overhang of about 2 inches. 

The same thing is right for the cat-bird, but the location should be 
entirely different. Cat-birds always nest close to the ground (from 1 
feet to 6 feet) and in the heart of the densest brush they can find. The 
center of your biggest Rambler Rose is your best location, or deep in a 
close growing evergreen: Cedar, Retinispora, clipped Spruce or Hem- 
lock or some similar growth. I found a big thorny Barberry bush in a 
clump of other shrubs a good place, when I tied five or six branches 
together above the Kttle platform to hide it thoroughly. 

One of the most valuable birds we can have about our homes is the 
■ phoebe. He belongs to the family of flycatchers, and well justifies the 
name for he spends the entire day watching from a twig and flying out 
and snapping up every fly, mosquito or moth that passes, and will pick 
off every Uttle leaf or fruit worm that his keen eyes may note. 

His note "phoebe, phoebe," is not as musical as the elaborate and 
varied assortment the cat-bird will regale one with; but it is cheery and 
alert, and, when one thinks of the vast number of insect pests, he is 
destroying hourly, it is a mos^ welcome note indeed. 

The phoebe is not as common as we might wish, but if your garden 
is fairly large and the houses are not too close together, a pair will 
doubtless look you over this Spring, and if you have the right sort of 
place ready, may stay with you. 

The favorite location for the phoebe is under a bridge or on a shelf 
of rock under a ledge, or a beam under an open shed, or similar loca- 
tion; preferably near water, though not necessarily so. They like 
plenty of room, and a good cover. The shelf should be 6 inches wide 
and at least 12 inches long, open at ends and with roof 5 in. above 




The Junco, or Snowbird 

"Leaden skies above; snow below" 
Courtesy U. S. Farmers' Bulletin, 
No. 506 



BIRDS IN THE GARDEN 



353 



at the front and 6 inches or 7 inches at the back and an overhang of 
at least 3 inches. A perch is not necessary. 

They are rather particular Httle fellows; for example, it is of little 
use to hang such a shelf on a house painted a light or bright color for 
they will not be interested. 
They .will have nothing to 
do with anything on a pole. 
There must be the sugges- 
tion of the big wall of rock 
and the protected ledge, so 
if you can, hang the shelf 
under the eaves or under an 
open porch, not more than 
one story from the ground. 
No high places for them, 
but it should be 7 feet or 8 
feet from the porch floor or 
ground, at least. If you 
are so fortunate as to have 
a pair of phoebes nest on 
your house, you will be well 
repaid for the trouble of 
putting up the Httle shelf 
and be sure that it is some 
dark color, brownish or 
grayish, or you will have 
your trouble for nothing. 

To make the birds per- 
fectly at home we must 
provide a bird bath or drink- 
ing basin. For this purpose 
any low bowl can be used in 
which the water is not too 
deep, for it would appear 
that some birds fear too 
deep water. If the bowl 
is deep, fiU in with clean 
pebbles or cement, or very 

attractive baths may be procured from some of the seed and florist 
firms. These pedestals and bowls furnish an excellent ornament to 
the garden as well. 

A suggestion for making the bath more attractive is to plant an 
umbrella plant in a smaU pot and place it at the side. A small quantity 




Wren House — Simply a square box (5 in.), all 
dimensions inside measurement, with slab 
covering, flat on back, but Sin. overhang in front 
and lin. at sides. One inch hole at center of 
front; Sin, perch. We have shown this box on 
pole but it could be hung from screw eye. 



354 



GARDEN GUIDE 



of Colomba and Parrot's Feather (Myriophyl- 
lum) might also be included and so placed that 
the pot will be entirely hidden. 

I have divided the birds into four distinc- 
tive groups, as follows: 

No. 1. — Suet Group: ^ 
Chickadee 
Tufted Titmouse 
White-breasted nuthatch 
Red-breasted nuthatch 
Downy woodpecker 
Hairy woodpecker 
Red-beUied woodpecker 
Flicker 
Blue jay 
Oregon jay 
Whiskey jack 
Crow 

Clarks crow 
Brown creeper 
Myrtle warbler 
Rose-breasted grosbeak 
Hermit thrush 
Winter wren 
House wren 
Starling 
Screech owl 




Song Sparrow 

"One of the most ad- 
mirable and delightful 
rrij , of American songsters'' 

These birds Courtesy U. S. Farm' 
also eat ers' Bulletin, No. 630 

Sunflower 
seed 
Squash 
seed 
Meat 
Fat pork 
Crumbs 
Dog biscuit 
Walnuts 
Butternuts 
Unroasted peanuts 
Other oily nuts 

A few of these birds will also eat 
cracked com and oats. 



No. 2. — Seed Group: - 
Junco 

Tree sparrow. Song Sparrow 
White-throated sparrow 
White crowned sparrow 
Foxsparrow. Cardinal goldfinch ^ 
RedpoU. Snow bunting 
Evening grosbeak 
Pine-grosbeak. Purple finch 
Gray-crowned rosy nnch 
Other finches and sparrows 

No. 3. — Grain Group: 
Ruffed grouse 
Quail 
Partridge 
Pheasant 
Lapland longspur 
Shore lark 

No. 4. — ^Fruit: 
Robin 

Mocking bird 

Catbird and most other thrushes 



These birds also eat almost any 
kind of small seeds or cracked grains, 
such as bird seed, millet, etc., 
crumbs, bread, crackers, dog bis- 
cuit, etc. 

A few of this group will also eat a 
Httle suet, or will pick at a bone 
with a Httle meat or fat adhering, 
but their normal food is vegetable. 

Any kind of gredn as: 
Oats 
Wheat 
Rye 
Barley 
Buckwheat 
Cracked corn 

This is a Southern group. Will 
eat oranges, figs, grapes and almost 
any other fresh fruit, also, some- 
times, bread and milk. 



BIRDS IN THE GARDEN 



355 



BERRY-BEARING SHRUBS, VINES AND TREES FOR THE 

BIRDS. 

Another way, and a very effective one of attracting birds, is to 
plant berry-bearing shrubs, trees and vines. The robins, starlings, 
thrushes, cedar birds, mocking birds, in fact most so-called soft billed 
birds, will eat berries, and some of the finches and sparrows will pick 
them open to get at the seeds. 

Many of the migrating birds will stay about a place, where there 
is an abundance of berry-bearers and an allowance of suet and seeds, 
'much later than they ordinarily would stay. 

For example here in Northern Jersey as I write this in the last of 
October, there are great flocks of robins and thrushes hurrying to cull 
the very last of my Mountain Ash and Dogwood berries, before they go 
away South. 

Last year one robin stayed with us all Winter eating the Japanese 
Barberries. There is also a pair of chewinks still here, while back in 
the woods they have been gone for at least three weeks. I should 
head the Ust of berry-bearers with such trees as the Mountain Ash, 
Dogwood, various wild Cherries and Cedars, Junipers, and other berry- 
bearing evergreens. These are especially beloved by the birds. A 
list of shrubs should include the shrubby Dogwoods, such as the Cor- 
neUan Cherry, Red Oiser, etc.; many of the Viburnums, and Ilexes, 
all the Vacciniums (that is. Blueberries, Cranberries and Deerberries) 
some of the Loniceras and Crataegus or Hawthorns, Aronias, CaUi- 
carpa, Enkianthus, Ribes, Rubus, Sambucus, Phillyrea, Amelanchier 
and Symphoricarpus, and be sure and save a shady nook for a clump 
of Mahonia and Cotoneaster. Last but not least we put the Bar- 
berries, for the reason that the birds will eat everything else first. 
Then when all the rest of the berries are gone they will settle down to 
the sour, bitter berries of Berberis Thunbergii. Berberis vulgaris is 
also very good, but the birds will eat its fruit earUer for the clear, sour 
flavor (which our grandmothers found so good in jam making) is 
pleasant to the robins' palate, so, let me repeat, be sure to have a clump/ 
or hedge of Thunbergii, for the cold January and February days 
when aU the other sweeter fruits are gone and the Cedar birds -will 
stay with you till the hosts appear from the South in March, April 
and May. 

There are also a few vines which will repay planting for the birds. 
Notably Actinidias, Lyceum and the berry-bearing Loniceras. 

All these trees, shrubs and vines are not only useful as bird food 
but have decorative value as well. Not nearly enough people realize 
the great beauty of berry-bearers in Winter. The warm oranges, reds. 



356 



GARDEN GUIDE 




bright blues and clear blacks of the different 
fruits are most attractive and especially if 
there are evergreens with which to contrast 
them, their decorative value has only to be 
seen to be appreciated. 

The birds will find the evergreens, espe- 
cially the dense, close growing Cedars, Arbor 
Vitses and Retinisporas extremely welcome as 
roosting places on long, cold Winter nights, 
as I have repeatedly observed, every one of 
my cedars having its cozy feathered tenants. 

I will never forget the night I saw, just 
at dusk, a Pine-grosbeak creep into one of my Junipers, the only one 
of that species I have ever seen. Or that other February afternoon 
when in a Httle flock of cedar birds eating Barberries, I suddenly 
realized that one was twice as large as any of the rest and had two 
white bars on each wing and I knew I was watching a Bohemian 
waxwing, that rare wanderer over the face of the world. I am sure he 
found a sufficient supper, rather bitter to be sure, but warming, and a 
dense Arbor Vitse hedge kept him warm and safe for one night at least. 



I 



Black-capped Chickadee 

"Any side up, without 
care, is the label he bears" 
Courtesy U. S. Farmers' 
Bulletin, No. 630 



W Readers interested in the study of birds can obtain descriptive 
leaflets, including colored plates and an outline, concerning over a hun- 
dred birds, from the National Association of Audubon Societies, 1974 
Broadway, New York City, for the nominal sum of three cents each 
(no order for less than fifteen cents); also useful bird study books, etc. 



For a complete work on the subject of this 
chapter we recommend 
BIRD NEIGHBORS, by Nettie Blanchan. Excellent pUtes of birds in 
natural colors make possible the identification of many birds even by the 
unpracticed eye. 234 pages. Price, $3.65 postpaid. Secure your copies 
where you bought your Garden Guide. 



Always^consult Index to Contents. Familiarize yourself with it. There 
are hundreds of good things in this book that will escape your attention if 
you do not use the Index freely. 



CHAPTER XXX 



Fruits and Vegetables for Winter 

Canning Fruits and Vegetables — Methods of Canning — Scalding, 
Blanching and Cold-Dipping — Sterilization — Equipment — Jars, 
Tin Cans and Rubbers — Sirups — Flat Sour — Treatment After 
Canning — Preservative Powder — Short Instructions for Canning 
Vegetables and Fruit— Recipes — Time Table for Scalding, 
Blanching and Sterilizing Vegetables and Fruits 

THE products of our own garden always taste better than fruit which 
has been prepared in the commercial establishments. We have 
grown the material; it is ours and we like it. 

Canning Fruits and Vegetables 

Science always tells us why we do a thing, and it is onlv by a knowledge 
of why we do things that we get so that we can apply the art of doing 
one thing to the art of doing another. As early as the seventeenth century, 
persons began to know that it was very minute plants and animals which 
caused the spoiling of fruits. These organisms induce fermentation and 
putrefaction, and are of immense importance. They are of three groups: 
First, molds, which appear as a white, green or black furry growth; they 
are often present on the vegetables at the time we can them. Secondly, 
we have the yeasts, which are famihar to every housewife who mkkes 
bread. These little '* plants" are invisible to the naked eye and seem to 
like to get into all substances which contain sugar. They are not usually 
there very long before they cause the substances to become sour, the 
next stage being the production of alcohol. The air is full of yeast, and 
it is almost always found on ripe fruit. The third class consists of bacteria. 
When we realize that sometimes fifteen thousand of these pesky little 
things can be placed end to end in an inch, we wonder how they can do 
so much damage, but they are the hardest foes of canning we have to 
fight. 

Every utensil which the housekeeper uses, and every vegetable and 
all the sugar and the water, contain some form of mold, yeast or bacteria. 
Our problem then is to take all possible care that each of our three enemies 
is conquered. 

For absolute cleanliness the soil must be carefully washed from the 
fruit; over-ripe fruit should never be used; bruised and cracked fruit 
should be avoided, for it is in the bruises and cracks that the yeast and molds 
are very prevalent. All jars and containers must be thoroughly scalded 
with boilmg water. 

The discussion of canning procedure set forth in these pages relates 
almost entirely to the one-period so-called cold-pack method and, together 
with the recipes, is based largely upon descriptions and directions contained 
in Farmers' Bulletin 839 and Form NR-24 of the Co-operative Extension Work 
in Agriculture and Home Economics (O. H. Benson, U. S. Department of 
Agriculture, Washington, D. C), and the Cornell Reading Course for the 
Farm Home (Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y.) By the one-period 

357 



358 GARDEN GUIDE 

method adopted for use in the home camiing-club work of the U. S. 
Department of Agriculture in the Northern and Western States it has 
been found a relatively simple matter to can practically any food product 
in the home with ordinary kitchen equipment and with the expenditure 
of comparatively little labor. 

Methods of Canning 

An important factor in the development of home canning work has 
been the great success of the Department of Agriculture in its experi- 
ments with the one-period method, by which the uncooked or 
partly cooked fruit or vegetable is packed in a jar or can and covered with 
water, sirup or juice, both jar and its contents being then sterilized by 
hot water or steam* This is now the most popular method in use by 
housekeepers, because of its simplicity, rapidity and certainty. The 
product thus preserved retains much of its natural beauty and flavor. 

By the open-kettle method the food to be canned is completely cooked 
in a kettle and then poured into the jar and sealed. The jars, rubbers and 
all utensils must be sterlized by boiling for 20 minutes before the jars 
are filled, otherwise there is danger that the food will be reinfected and spoil 
after the sealing. By many this method is preferred for canning Straw- 
berries and Tomatoes; it is also recommended for Beets, because the skins 
can be easily removed after the cooking and less color is lost. 

Scalding, Blanching and Cold-Dipping 
Scalding means placing the product in a cheese cloth bag or dipping 
basket and merely dipping it into boiling water, the object being chiefly to 
remove skins of certain fruits and vegetables, as in the cases of Peaches, 
Tomatoes or Carrots. 

Blanching carries with it the meamng of allowing the product to 
remain a much longer period (X to 15 minutes, according to kind) in the 
hot water, which serves to remove dirt and organisms, to insure a close 
pack by reducing the bulk of greens and increasing the flexibihty of such 
vegetables as String Beans and Asparagus, to eliminate objectionable acids 
and acrid flavors and, in conjunction with the cold-dip, to set the color. 
Greens and green vegetables are most satisfactorily blanched in steam. 

The cold-dip means the quick chiUing of the outside of the blanched 
vegetable or fruit. Take it sharply from the hot water or live steam, 
plunge it into cold, clean water, and inunediately remove and drain it for a 
few seconds. This permits the removal of the skin without injury to the 
pulp, coagulates and preserves the coloring matter and facilitates the 
handling of the product in packing. 

Sterilization 

Complete sterilization of the food and can is one of the most im- 
portant requirements in connection with the successful preservation of food 
by canning, as it' means the eliminatiug of aU the Hve molds, yeasts and 
bacteria. When blanching and cold-dipping are foUowed by a single 
or continuous period of sterihzation, it is claimed by experts that the 
success of canning most vegetables is just as sure as though the inter- 
mittent method — ^three periods for three successive days — were used. By 
this one-period method the risk of overcooking the product is obviated 
and, besides, it is more natural in color, flavor and texture. 

The cooking of canned foods for a given time on each of three succes- 
sive days is called the intermittent process, and some canners advocate 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES FOR WINTER 359 



its use for certain non-acid vegetables, but equally satisfactory results 
are accomplished by the one-period method, which has the additional 
advantage that it saves labor and expense. 

Equipment 

The housewife can do home canning successfully by using only such 
equipment as may be already on hand. When canning is done by the 
cold-pack method the first and most essential requisite is a hot-water 
bath, in which the cans of food may be boiled or sterilized. An ordinary 
wash boiler can be easily converted into an efficient home canner by 
fitting it with a false bottom made of slats, with lifting handles. Then 
there will also be needed a suitable table, paring and coring knives, a 
thermometer, a few yards of cheesecloth, a wire dipping basket, wiping 
cloths, an abundance of clean hot and cold water, a duplex fork for lifting 
hot jars, a watch or clock to check schedule times, and a good stove or 
other heating device. Other types of canners now on the market are 
steam cookers, water-seal outfits, and steam-pressure outfits, but the 
home made hot-water receptacle described above will meet the necessities 
of most individual housekeepers. 

Jars, Tin Cans and Rubbers 

Large-moUthed glass jars should be used for canning. Of many 
kinds on the market, the types that seem to be most generally favored are 
those with glass covers clamped on with some metal device, those with 
screw metal tops and those with suction seal tops. All jars should be 
carefully tested, washed and placed in a pan of cool water on a stove to 
heat, keeping them there until needed for packing. Testing may be per- 
formed by partly filling the jar with boiling water, adjustiag the rubber 
and the cover, and seaHng and inverting the jar. If there is a leakage, 
determine the cause, and if the defect cannot be remedied reserve the 
jar for some other purpose. 

Crockery jars with rubber top and clamp spring adjustment for 
sealing hermetically are also used for canning. Packs in crockery jars of 
more than one quart size need an increased period of sterilization of 10 to 
20 per cent, over glass\ jars of the same size. 

Plain tin cans may be successfully used for packing most foodstuffs, 
but greens. Beets, Strawberries, Cherries, Pumpkin and Squash should be 
put up in enameled cans, as the enamel prevents chemical action of the 
products on the tin coating of the container. 

Care should be given to the selection of good elastic rubber rings. New 
rubbers are required each year, as they seldom stand using a second season. 

Sirups 

In canning fruits the thickness of the sirup employed depends upon 
the kind of fruit and the sweetness desired. For ordinary use sugar and 
water may be combined by boiling until the sugar is dissolved in the 
following proportions: 

Thin sirup (20 to 30 per cent, density) : 8 cupfuls of water and 33^ 
cupfuls of sugar. Used for Apples, Pears, Raspberries and other sweet 
berries. 

Medium sirup (30 to 40 per cent, density) : 8 cupfuls of water and 53^ 
cupfuls of sugar. Used for such fruits as Currants, Blackberries, Dew- 
berries, Raspberries, Sweet Plums and Sweet Cherries. 



3(50 GARDEN GUIDE 

Thick sirup (50 to 55 per cent, density): 8 cupfuls of*water and 10 
cupfuls of sugar. Used for Cherries, Pineapples, Apricots and Peaches. 

Flat Sour 

There should be no delay at any stage of the canning process, other- 
wise what is known by canners as'* flat sour" is liable to develop, especially 
in canned Peas, Corn, Beans and Asparagus. This is a condition in which 
the taste and the odor are so disagreeable as to necessitate the destroying of 
the product. The danger may be minimized by using product which 
has not been gathered more than five or six hours, blanching, cold-dipping 
and packing one jar at a time and placing each jar in the canner as it is 
packed. If a steam-pressure canner is used, do not clamp down the 
covers until the retort is filled. 

Treatment after Canning 
Before storing canned food set it aside for two or three days and then 
test as follows: Loosen the clamp and grasp the jar by the edges of the 
glass top. If the can leaks, or if decomposition has set in, the top will 
come off. If the top stays on, tighten the clamp again and the food is 
ready for storage. If the top comes off, reject that can. Red fruits and 
vegetables should be stored in a dark place, as light destroys the color. 

Preservative Powder 
Preservative powder should not be used. Small doses are not 
immediately harmful to the healthy adult, but for children and invalids, or 
in larger doses, the effects are dangerous and, for these reasons, although 
these powders prevent spoiling, they should not be employed. 

Short Instructions for Canning Vegetables 

Select vegetables that are young, sound and clean, and use as soon 
as possible after they have been gathered. Peas, Beans, Corn and Aspara- 
gus, which lose their flavor rapidly, should be canned within five or six 
hours after picking. 

Grade the vegetables and make the contents of each jar as nearly 
uniform in size as possible. 

Do not attempt to handle too large a quantity of vegetables at once, 
especiaUy in hot weather. 

Blanch or scald the vegetables by plunging into boiling water, allow- 
ing them to remain long enough to make the vegetables sufficiently flexible 
to pack easily, or to loosen the skins so that they can be readily peeled or 
scraped off. 

As soon as taken from the boiling water dip the product into cold, 
clean water and inmaediately remove and drain. The vegetables should 
not be cooled thoroughly by this cold immersion. 

Pack the vegetables firmly into tested hot jars to within one-half inch 
of the top and fill with boihng water to within one-quarter inch of the top. 
Add salt for seasoning. The addition of a smaU amount of sugar improves 
some vegetables. ' The new rubbers are put into place and the heated 
covers adjusted and partly sealed. 

Place the containers in the hot-water bath and sterilize for the required 
length of time (see time table). The boiling water should cover the tops 
of the jars to the depth of about one inch. Keep the water boiling during 
the sterilizing process. Begin to time the sterilizing when the water boils 
over the jars. 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES FOR WINTER 3G1 



Immediately after the sterilizing period is ended, remove the jars, seal 
them promptly, place them on a tray upside down to cool, and carefully 
examine for leaks. 

The canning being now completed, wash the jars, label and store 
them. 

Instructions for Canning Fruit 

With very few exceptions, the directions for canning fruit by the one- 
period method are similar to those given above for canning vegetables. Well- 
grown, firm and not overripe fruit should be chosen and all blemishes or 
decayed parts removed. Cherries, berries and Plums do not need blanch- 
ing. Fill the jars with the boiling sirup to within one-quarter inch of the 
top. To prevent loss of color, store red fruits in a dark place. When 
there is not enough product to fill the last jar^ fill it up with liquid and 
treat it in the same way as those which are fully packed. The fruit will 
keep just as well. 

Recipes. One-Period Method 

A time table for scalding^ blanching and sterilizing vegetables and 
fruits appears on page 36 4. 



VEGETABLES 

Tomatoes. — Scald iH minutes or until 
skins loosen. Cold-dip. Remove stems and 
cores. Pack directly into cans or hot jars. 
Press down with tablespoon (add no water) . 
Add level teaspoonful salt per quart, and 
sugar if desired. Put rubbers and caps of 
jars into position, partially seal, but not 
tight. Seal tin cans completely. Sterilize 
in hot water bath, 22 minutes; water-seal 
outfit, 18 min.; 5 lbs. steam pressure, 15 
min.; 10 lbs steam pressure, 10 min. 

If the open-kettle system is used, sterilize 
the jars and the covers by boiling them for 
20 minutes. Immerse the rubbers in boil- 
ing water for about 5 min. Add salt (and 
sugar if desired) to the Tomatoes as in the 
cold-pack method. The Tomatoes will 
make their own juice as they become heated ; 
therefore add no water. Boil for from 
6 to 10 min.; the longer period may be 
required for large Tomatoes, which should 
be turned during the cooking. Fix the rub- 
bers and with sterilized spoons ladle the 
boiling Tomatoes into the jars, filling them 
to overflowing with the boiling juice. Ad- 
just the sterilized tops immediately and 
seal the jars. Invert the jars to cool, avoid- 
, ing a draft on them. 

Sweet Corn. — Can the same day as 
picked. Remove husks and silk. Blanch 
on the cob in boiling hot water 5 to 15 min. 
Plunge quickly in cold water. Cut the corn 
from the cob with a thin, sharp-bladed 
knife. Pack corn in jar tightly until full. 
Add one level teaspoonful of salt to each 
quart and sufficient hot water to fill. Place 
rubber and top in position; seal partially 
but not tight. (Cap and tip tin cans.) 
Sterilize in hot water bath, 180 min.; water- 
seal, 120 min.; 5 lbs. steam pressure, 90 
min.; 10 to 15 lbs. steam pressure, 60 
min. Remove the jars. Tighten covers, 
invert to cool and test joints. 



When canning Sweet Corn on the cob, 
follow same directions but pack whole ears 
in jars instead of cut-off corn. 

Sweet Peppers. — Use sweet green Pep- 
pers. Place the peppers in the oven and bake 
them until the skins separate from the meat. 
Remove the skins. Pack them solid in hot 
glass jars or tin cans. Add water. Add 
one level teaspoonful of salt per quart. Put 
the rubbers and caps of jars in position, not 
tight. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize in 
hot-water bath, 90 minutes; water-seal, 
75 min.; s lbs. steam pressure, 60 min.; 
10 lbs. steam pressure 40 min. Remove the 
jars; tighten the covers; invert the jars to 
cool, and test the joints. Wrap the jars to 
prevent bleaching. 

Pumpkin, Squash, Hominy and 
Sauerkraut. — Prepare and cut into con- 
venient sections. Blanch 3 minutes. Cold- 
dip; pack closely in hot jars or cans. Fill 
with boiling water. Add level teaspoonful 
salt per quart. Put rubbers and caps of 
jars into position, not tight. Seal tin cans 
completely. Sterilize in hot-water bath, 
120 minutes; water seal, 90 min.; 5 lbs. 
steam pressure, 60 min.; 10 lbs. steam pres- 
sure, 40 min. 

Roots and Tuber Vegetables. — ^These 
include such vegetables as Carrots, Parsnips, 
Salsify, Beets, Turnips and Sweet Potatoes. 
Grade for size, color and degree of ripeness. 
Wash and clean thoroughly. Scald or 
blanch in hot water sufficiently to loosen 
the skin. Dip quickly into cold water. Pare 
or scrape to remove skin. Pack whole 
vegetables, slices or cross-section pieces in 
liot glass jars or tin cans. Add boiling 
water until full. Add level teaspoonful salt 
to quart. Place rubbers and tops of jars 
in position. Partially seal, but not tight. 
Cap and tip tin cans completely. Sterilize 
in hot- water bath, 90 minutes; water seal. 



362 



GARDEN GUIDE 



<min.; s lbs. steam pressure, 60 min.; 
1 c lbs. steam pressure, 40 min. Remove 
jars from canner. Tighten covers. Invert 
to cool and test joints. Wrap in paper and 
store. 

Small Beets that run about 40 to the 
quart are the most suitable for good packs. 
To prevent fading of the color, leave on i 
in. of the stem and all of the tail while 
blanching. Blanch not more than 5 min., 
and cold-dip. The skin should be scraped 
off, not peeled. Pack Beets whole, if 
possible. 

Vegetable Greens — These include Swiss 
Chard, Kale, French Endive, Chinese Cab- 
bage leaves. Cabbage Sprouts, New Zealand 
Spinach, Asparagus, Spinach, Beet tops, 
cultivated Dandelion and Collards. Can 
greens the day they are picked. Wash 
clean, sort thoroughly, allowing no foreign 
weeds or other vegetable matter to remain. 
Rid the greens of all sand, dirt, dry and 
decayed or diseased leaves. Place the 
greens in a crate or cheese cloth and blanch 
in a vessel with a little water under false 
bottom or in a regular steamer, 15 to 20 
minutes. Remove. Plunge quickly into 
cold water. Cut in convenient lengths. 
Pack tight in jar or container and season to 
taste; add a little chipped beef, olive oil, 
etc. Add hot water to fill crevices, and a 
level teaspoonful of salt to each quart. If 
using glass jars place rubber and top in 
position, partially seal; if using tin cans, 
cap and tip completely. Sterilize in hot- 
water bath, 120 minutes; water seal, 90 
min.; 5 lbs. steam pressure, 60 min.; 10 
lbs. steam pressure, 40 min. Remove from 
canner. Tighten covers of jars. Invert to 
cool and test the joints. Wrap in paper to 
prevent bleaching, and store. 

Vegetables. Including Wax Beans, 
Stringless Beans, Okra, Green Peppers, 
Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts — String 
or hull. Blanch in live steam for 5 to 10 
minutes. Remove and dip quickly in cold 
water. Pack in hot jars or tin cans and add 
boiling water until jars or tin cans are full. 
Add one level teaspoonful of salt to each 
qi^art. Put rubbers and caps of jars in 
position, not tight. Seal tin cans com- 
pletely. Sterilize in hot-water bath, i20 
minutes; water seal, 90 min.; 5 lbs. steam 
pressure, 60 min.; 10 lbs. steam pressure, 
40 min. 

Lima Beans and Peas. — Blanch in live 
steam for s to 10 minutes. Dip quickly in 
cold water. Pack immediately in hot glass 
jars or tin cans. Add boiling water to fill 
container. Add level teaspoonful salt per 
quart. Place rubbers and caps of jars in 
position, not tight. Seal tin cans com- 
pletely. Sterilize in hot-water bath, 180 
minutes; water seal, 120 min.; 5 lbs. steam 
pressure, 60 min.; 10 to 15 lbs. steam pres- 
sure, 40 min. Remove from container. 
Tighten cover. Invert to cool, and test the 
joints. Wrap in paper to prevent breakage, 
and store. 

Cauliflower. — Use the flowered portion. 
Separate head into small pieces. Plunge it 



into cold brine (one-half pound salt to 12 
quarts of water). Allow the Cauliflower to 
remain in this brine for one hour. Blanch 
it 3 min. and dip quickly into cold water. 
Pack it in hot glass jars or tin cans. Fill 
with boiling water and add a level tea- 
spoonful of salt per quart. Put rubbers 
and caps of jars in position, not tight. Cap 
and tip cans. Sterilize in hot-water bath, 
60 minutes; water seal, 40 min.; 5 lbs. 
steam pressure, 30 min.; 15 lbs. steam 
pressure, 20 min. Remove the jars. 
Tighten covers. Invert jars to cool, and test 
the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to 
prevent bleaching. 

FRUITS 

Soft Fruits and Berries. — These in- 
clude. Apricots, Blackberries, Blueberries, 
Cherries, Currants, Dewberries, Figs, 
Gooseberries, Grapes, Huckleberries, 
Peaches, Plums, Raspberries, and Straw- 
berries. After hulling, seeding, stemming, 
or skinning the fruit, place fruit in a strainer 
and rinse by pouring cold water over it. 
Pack from strainer into hot jars or cans 
without crushing, using big spoon or ladle. 
Hot sirup previously prepared should be 
poured over the fruit at once. Before pack- 
ing a second jar, place rubbers and caps in 
position, not tight. If using tin cans, seal 
completely. Enameled tin cans should be 
used for all highly acid berries. Sterilize in 
hot-water bath, 16 minutes; water seal, 
12 min.; 5 lbs. steam pressure, 10 min.; 
10 lbs. steam pressure, 5 min. Remove from 
canner; tighten covers; invert to cool, and 
test joints. Wrap in paper to prevent 
bleaching, and store. 

Hard Fruits. — ^Apples, Pears, and 
Quinces. — Remove skin and core. Cut 
into convenient slices or sections and drop 
into slightly salted cold water to keep from 
tarnishing. Blanch minutes. Cold- 

dip. Pack closely in hot jars or tin cans. 
Fill with hot sirup. Put rubbers and caps 
of jars into position, not tight. Seal tin 
cans completely. Sterilize in hot- water 
bath, 20 minutes; water seal, 12 min.; 
S lbs. steam pressure, 8 min.; 10 to 15 lbs. 
steam pressure, 6 min. Remove from can- 
ner; tighten covers; invert to cool, and 
test joints. ' Wrap in paper to prevent 
bleaching, and store. 

DRYING FRUITS AND 
VEGETABLES 

The oldjart of drying fruits and vegetables 
is again revived. It is the simplest method 
of preserving many of our crops. 

Simple frames may be made, using a low 
tray with a wire bottom; the mesh must be 
rather fine, otherwise the portions of fruit 
will pass through the holes, for it is remark- 
able how much the crops will shrink when 
water is lost. This frame may be hung 
outside in the sun, or may be hung over the 
gas or coal range. The use of an electric 
fan is also advised, for the drying depends 
upon heat and interchange of air. 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES FOR WINTER 



363 



Vegetables and fruits should be pared and 
cut into thin slices. With certain juicy 
sorts placing them in the oven to start 
drying will be found advisable; the heat 
must not be strong, otherwise the material 
will bake or burn, not dry. 

Most vegetables are blanched; this con- 
sists merely of placing them In a wire 
strainer and plunging in boiling water. The 
blanching is followed by the cold-dip; this 
merely means that they are dipped in cold 



water.which will retain their color and make 
them firm. The blanching process removes 
strong odors and flavors and softens the 
fiber, besides thoroughly cleansing the 
product. 

Full directions for drying fruits and vege- 
tables in the home, with recipes for cooking, 
are contained in Farmers' Bulletin 841, 
copies of which may be obtained free from 
the Division of Publications, U. S. Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, Washington, D. C 



For a complete work on the subject of this chapter we recommend 
CANNING AND PRESERVI NG, by Mrs. S. T. Rorer. This book is the result of care- 
ful practice in teaching beginners how to can and preserve fruits and vegetables; also the best 
methods of making marmalades, fruit butter and jellies, drying fruits, and making sirups 
and catsups, pickling, flavored vinegars, drying herbs, etc. Price, $1.10. postpaid. Secure 
your copies where you bought your Garden Guide. 




City Houses and their Rear Yards 
Some of these yards are purely ornamental; others, notably the two in the middle, 
have vegetable spaces. The dotted parts of the yards represent grass, the shaded 
parts arbors and rest house, the remainder being beds and ^borders. Some 
most delightful landscape effects can be produced in these limited areas of 20 ft. 

wide byJ40 ft. deep 



364 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Time Table for Scalding^ Blanching and Sterilizing 
Vegetables, and Fruits 

( From Farmers* Bulletin 839) 



Products by groups. 



SPECIAL VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes 

Pumpkin 

Squash 

Hominy 

Sauerkraut 

Corn, sweet 

Sweet peppers 

POD VEGETABLES AND OTHER GREEN- 
PR ODUCTS. 

Beans, wax 

Beans, stringless 

Okra 

Peppers, green or ripe 

Cabbage 

Brussels sprouts 

Cauliflower > 



ROOT AND TUBER VEGETABLES. 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

Salsify 

Beets 

Turnips 

Sweet potatoes 

Other roots and tubers 



SOUP VEGETABLES. 

Lima beans 

Peas 



GREENS, DOMESTIC OR WILD. 

Swiss chard 

Kale 

Chinese cabbage leaves 

French endive 

Cabbage sprouts , 

Spinach, New Zealand 

Asparagus 

Spinach 

Beet tops 

Dandelion, cultivated 

Collards 



SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES. 

Apricots 

Blackberries 

Blueberries 

Cherries 

Currants 

Dewberries 

Figs 

Gooseberries ; 

Grapes 

Huckleberries 

Peaches 

Plums 

Raspberries 

Strawberries 



HARD FRUITS. 



Apples . . 
Pears . . . 
Quinces , 



Scald 
or 
blanch. 


Hot- 
water- 

bath 
outfits 
at 212". 


- 

Water- 
seal 
outfits, 

2I4^ 


Steam 
pressure 
5 to 10 
pounds. 




22 


18 


15 


3 


120 


90 


60 


3 


120 


90 


60 


3 


120 


90 


60 


3 


lao 


90 


60 


5 


180 


120 


90 


5 


90 


75 


60 


5-TO 


120 


90 


60 


5 10 


120 


90 


60 


S-IO 


120 


90 


60 


S-IO 


120 


90 


60 


S-IO 


120 


90 


60 


5 10 


120 


90 


60 


3 


00 


40 


30 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5 


90 


OO 


60 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5 


90 


80 


60 


5- TO 


180 


120 


60 


5-10 


180 


120 


60 




I 20 


90 


00 


>l 


120 


90 


60 


15 


120 


90 


60 


15 


120 


90 


60 


15 


120 


90 


60 


15 


120 


90 


60 


15 


120 


90 


60 


IS 


120 


90 


60 


1 5 


120 


90 


60 


I ^ 


120 


90 


60 


1 5 


120 


90 


60 


I -2 


T A 

10 


12 


10 




10 


12 


10 




10 


12 


10 




10 


12 


10 




16 


12 


10 




16 


12 


10 


1-2 


16 


12 


10 


I- J 


16 


12 


10 




16 


12 


10 




16 


12 


• '° i 


1-2 


16 


12 


10 1 




16 


12 


10 j 




16 


12 


10 1 




16 


12 


10 1 


13^ 


20 1 


12 




iH 


20 : 


12 




iH 


20 i 


12 


8 i 



CHAPTER XXXI 

Miscellaneous 

Mice and Rabbits 

Pine mice and cottontail rabbits occur throughout the eastern 
portion of the United States and do much harm to fruit and ornamental 
trees and shrubs as well as to garden produce and other farm crops. 
Both can be thinned out or cleared out by poisoning. For thejPine 
mice use Sweet Potatoes cut into pieces about the size of large Grapes. 
Moisten four quarts of these and drain off excess moisture. SloVly 
sift over them one-eighth ounce of powdered strychnine (alkaloid), 
using a pepper box or salt shaker for 
the purpose, and stir constantly to 
distribute the poison evenly. One or 
two pieces of the poisoned Sweet 
Potatoes should be dropped into 
the tunnels through the natural 
openings, or through, openings made 
with a stick. A systematic use of 
this poison invariably results in an 
almost complete extermination of 
Pine mice. 

These pests are also easily trapped, but owing to the extra time 
and labor required, this method does not compare favorably with 
poisoning. Rabbits can be exterminated by the use of powdered 
strychnin*^, but game laws should bs first consulted. 

Eradicating Moles 

One of the worst and most persistent pests in gardens, nurseries, 
lawns and sometimes in greenhouses, is the mole. There are several 
ways of trying to eradicate moles. First, and doubtless best, is the 
use of traps, either wooden or iron, which are in several patterns, 
those best known being the Out o' Sight, costing 75c. each; the 
Reddick, at $1; the Ohnstead, $1.50; and the Nash mole trap, $1. 
The latter is used and recommended by the United States Agricultural 
Department. It is a light wire arrangement, and is^highly spoken of. 
It acts upon the well-known principle of the Choker wire traps used for 
mice. These and other traps may be had from seedsmen. It requires 
considerable skill to set a trap to the best advantage ^ and is an art not 
always readily acquired. In gardens or nurseries it is well to set the 
trap at the edge of the grounds or lawn, as it is there that the mole.-> 

365 




366 



GARDEN GUIDE 



usually enter. Poisoned fresh Corn, placed in their runs, is also 
recommended, a strychnine solution being used. Lastly, carbon 
bisulphide, which is a deadly poisonous volatile liquid, may be poured 
into their runs at places, covering the opening over again with the 
soil. The fumes permeate the soil and kill the moles. One can 
frequently catch or kill the moles as they work, by noticing the move- 




Choker Loop Trap for Moles Scissors-jaw or Gripping-jaw 

From •♦Trapping Moles," Farmers* Bull. 832 ' Trap for Moles 

ment of the soil. The utmost caution has to be exercised, as they 
hear the shghtest noise. A spade or digging fork may be used to 
scoop in behind them at about 6 inches from where they are working, 
and not in front, as they always run backward. 

How to Destroy Rats 

The chief means of keeping rats from one's place is to have rat- 
proof buildings, and for preventing the increase or presence of rats 
have perfect cleanliness everywhere, no waste food or shelter places for 
them. Dogs, cats, ferrets, hawks, owls, skunks, coyotes, weasels 
and minks are among their natural enemies and should be encouraged. 
Trapping; poisoning, fumigating, and the use of micro-organisms 
(bacteria) are other means adopted for their eradication. Full 
particulars as to the destruction of rats are given in Farmers' Bulletin 
369, pubhshed Sept. 3, 1909, by the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. There 
are several forms of rat traps, possibly the best being one or other 
of the guillotine type. The mouse trap shown p. 365 could be attempted . 
Sometimes a barrel trap is used, the cover being so poised and balanced 
that when the rat places its weight on it that side immediately tips 



MISCELIANEOUS 



367 



and throws the rat into the water. Of course, a bait has to be placed 
on the top. Among the poisons used are: barium carbonate, strych- 
nine, arsenic and phosphorus. The barium may be fed in the form 
of a dough, composed of four parts of meal or flour and one part of 
the mineral. Another plan is to spread the barium carbonate upon 
fish, toasted bread or ordinary bread and butter. The prepared bait 
should be placed in rat runs, about a teaspoonful at a place. Strychnine 
may be used by inserting the dry crystals in small pieces of raw meat, 
sausage or toasted cheese; or oatmeal may be moistened with strych- 
nine sirup, and small quantities laid about. The sirup is made as 
follows: dissolve one-half ounce of strychnia sulphate in a pint of 
boiling water, add a pint of thick sugar sirup and stir thoroughly. 
For an arsenic bait, take a pound of oatmeal, a pound of coarse brown 
sugar and a spoonful of arsenic; mix well together and put the com- 
position into an earthen jar. 

Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, Rhizomes, and Rootstocks 

A bulb is composed of fleshy scales packed together, forming an 
ovoid, oval, round, or flattened baU, from the under surface and edges 
of which roots are produced during growth. Examples: Hyacinth, 
Lihum, Daffodil, Onion. A corm may be superficially hke a bulb but 
is soHd. Examples: Gladiolus, Crocus, Cyclamen. A tuber is best 
represented in a Potato, being "a short thickened shoot furnished with 
'eyes' or buds"; other examples are Caladium, Calla or Arum Lily, 
Dahlia, tuberous Begonia. A rhizome (rhizomatous plant) is a shoot or 
stem that grows more or less horizontally on or in the soil producing 
buds and stem growth. Examples: German Iris, Lily of the VaUey, 
Solomon's Seal. A rootstock is the thickened fleshy mass that hardy 
herbaceous perennial plants as a rule, form, and in which their store of 
nourishment is carried over in Winter. Examples: Peony, Rhubarb, 
Phlox, Delphinium. 

Ants, Destroying 

Some good ways of destroying ants are to get some old meaty 
bones — ^from the stock pot will do — and place them near the nest; 
these will attract them in large numbers, and they can then be dropped 
into boiling water. Another way, where there are no valuable plants 
near, is to sprinkle the nest and runs with a mixture of six parts water 
to one part kerosene. Forceful syringing with warm water wfll clean 
pot plants of ants; and stirring the soil around their nests repeatedly 
will also tend to clear them out. As a soil fumigant Vaporite is an 
exceUent remedy. It is safe and easy to use, being already prepared. 
Bisulphide of carbon is likewise sure. 



308 



GARDEN GUIDE 



A Dandy Flagstaff for the Lawn 

One who has a flagstaff writes: "We got a barrel and 
put in a heavy 2-inch iron pipe, keeping this in the center, 
around which we iilled concrete, ramming it well. It is 
necessary to place a small block at the bottom and to 
cover the concrete with some small boards 
at the top in order to hold the iron pipe steady 
while the concrete is being filled in. This work 
must be done near to the place where the pole 
is to be erected. When the concrete has set 
solidly, the barrel may be slid into the hole 
prepared for it in the way shown in the illus- 




Prepared trench in which to slide 
barrel 



tration. The flagpole is 38 feet high, 
made of sections as follows: One 15- 
foot length of extra heavy 23/2-iiich 
iron pipe; one 10-foot length of 2-inch 
pipe; one 8-foot length of 1^-inch 
pipe; one o-foot length of IJ^-inch 
pipe. Total, 38 feet. The flagstaff is 
set 4 feet below the surface, giving an 
actual height of 34 feet. At the top 
of the last section a hole can be drilled 
through the pipe for the halyards, and 
surmounting this an ornamental piece 
can be set on, including weather 
vane. It is important to paint each 
section three times, before setting 
into position, and all the sections 
must be well threaded and have 
good sockets." 

Garden Boards and Their Uses 

When in early Spring we have spaded our 
garden, made the soil fine and mellow, and 
leveled it by use of the garden rake, we 
greatly disliked to walk on the plot to 
" plant the seeds, the hopes of our season's 



MTSGELIANEOUS 



3G9 



crops. It always seems that in trampling down the soil which we have 
brought into sUch a mellow condition, we partly undo the work which 
we have done with spade and rake. Later, when the seeds have germi- 
nated, and the plants need attention, again we feel reluctant to walk 
between the rows for the purpose of thinning out, cultivating or 
transplanting. We know that the soil, especially if moist, is compacted 
by the pressure of our feet so that, in drying, it is left in hard lumps. 

We have learned in our many years of amateur gardening a simple 
method whereby to avoid trampling down and compacting the garden 
soil. We do not claim to have originated the device, it may have 
been used, for aught We know, ever since Adam and Eve left Eden. 
The point is that it works. Last season our garden plot was 36 feet 
wide and 48 feet long. Through it, lengthwise, ran a path 3 feet 
wide, which left on each side a plot in which the rows of vegetables 
were 16 feet long. Some of these rows were 14 inches and some 16 
inches apart. In view of these dimensions we obtained two pine 
boards, planed both sides, each 1 inch thick, 10 inches wide and 8 
feet long. 

Standing in the path we would place one of these boards end toward 
the path and across the end of the plot which we were going to plant; then 
walking along it we would place the near end of the second board 
against the far end of the first board, so that it reached the rest of the 
way across the plot. Walking on these boards we would set our 
garden line along one side, make a drill and plant seeds or set plants. 
Next we would move the garden line over to the other side of the 
boards, make a second drill, and plant a second row of seeds or plants. 
Then we would lift to the other side of the line, first the board farthest 
from the path, and second, the one nearest the path, and proceed to 
plant a third row, and so on till the whole plot was planted. It should 
^be noted that at the first placing of the boards we planted two rows 
before moving the boards, but after that we move the boards as we 
plant each row. Where the rows in the garden plot are not more than 
6 feet to 10 feet long a single board may, of course, be used. 

In thinning out and weeding rows we invariably use the boards in 
this way. And often in gathering the vegetables, especially if the soil 
is wet, we use our garden boards and thus avoid compacting the soil 
at a time when moisture conservation helps to insure big crops. In 
view of our past experience we would not want to be without our 
garden boards, and do not intend to if we can help it. 



370 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Paint 

The most economical and satisfactory black paint we have 
ever used for ironwork was made by mixing about two quarts 
of coal tar with a pint or a pint and a half of benzole, 
which was laid on with a paint brush. This makes an excellent 
varnish for rough work. It could not be reconunended, however, 
as a fine varnish for any inside work. Paint made of coal tar and 
benzole will be found excellent for smearing the ironwork of farm 
implements. As benzole is somewhat volatile, no more paint should 
be prepared at one time than would be used inmiediately. Another 
composition to blacken walls is made as follows: Boil well together 
one gallon of coal tar to 2 pounds of pitch, add 5 pounds of sifted hot 
lime. Apply it hot with brushes. Other cheap and durable 
paints for woodwork are these: For wood underground: Take boUed 
linseed oil, stir in pulverized charcoal to the consistency of paint. 
Put a coat of this over the timber, and the exclusion of damp will be 
perfect. Limewood posts have been taken up after having been set 
seven years that were as sound when taken up as when first put into 
the ground. Time and weather seemed to have no effect upon them. 
The posts should be well seasoned before the oil and charcoal are ap- 
pUed, and the paint should be thoroughly dry before they are put into 
the ground. For outdoor woodwork, the best priming is simply whiting 
mixed in pure raw linseed oil; let it stand until it is thoroughly mixed; 
then reduce with oil, and add the drier sufficient to dry it. This makes a 
good, hard, durable paint for the first coat. Reduce it to an ordinary 
thickness for priming and apply with an ordinary brush. It must be 
thoroughly beaten together, so as to work out all the lumps of whiting. 
If color is desired, or the woodwork is very much stained by age, take 
about one-haK conmion whiting, one-half white lead, throw in a small 
portion of red lead and chrome yellow to overcome the blackness of the 
wood, or add lunber for a drab color. Fresh paint is always best. 
Small portions of Venetian red and lamp-black will do for a dark color.' 
Yet another wood preservative paint is made thus: Boil together one 
gallon of coal tar and pounds of sulphate of zinc (white copperas) , 
and paint it on the woodwork while hot. — The Horticultural Direc- 
tory. 

Drainage 

There are few places where some amount of drainage is not 
necessary. It may be merely the drainage around barns and other 
houses to keep them dry and to prevent rot, or it may be the improve- 
ment in land. The most difficult land to drain is a perfectly level 
stretch. About the only thing one can do is to cut a wide, deep 



MISCELLANEOUS 



371 



ditch at the most convenient side, or where the ground is seemingly 
lowest, and drain into this; an outlet, of course, is imperative. All 
land that holds water for a day or so after heavy rain requires drain- 
age. The benefits derivable are the sweetening of the soil, mak- 
ing it accessible to roots to a much greater depth, freeing it of stagnant 
water, and allowing healthy action to take place. Hard baked cylin- 
drical tiles of 23/^-inch diameter, set from feet to 33^^ feet deep, ac- 
cording to the stiffness or sogginess of the soil, is recommended. In the 
larger areas these should be 30 feet apart. Two and a half inch pipe 
will drain from 400 feet to 500 feet of ground. A good system is to 
have a large central drain with oblique lateral feeders. There should 
be a steady fall and good outlet. The tiles are laid on a flat foun- 
dation, tightly butted end to end, and are covered over with sod, grass 
side downward, or brush, or straw, or even paper, and the soil then 
filled in on top. Where much drainage on cleared land has to be done, 
lines can be cut to a considerable depth by ditching plows or subsoil 
plows, the rest of the work being done by hand labor. 

Flies in Houses 

The common house fly is now generally known to be a very 
dangerous insect, carrying disease germs far and wide. It lays its 
eggs upon horse manure, and a great variety of decaying vegetable 
and animal material. An individual fly may lay 120 eggs at one 
time, and two to four batches may be laid. The eggs usually hatch 
in less than 24 hours, and the period of emergence of the adult fly is 
8 to 12 days. In a few days the young female is ready to deposit eggs. 
There may be 10 to 12 generations every Sunmier, so that the number 
of fUes that it is possible to mature will thus readily be estimated . The 
best preventive of all, of course, is absolute cleanliness, especially in 
regard to decaying material; sticky fly papers are also used, fly traps, 
which are obtainable in various patterns, fumigants, and the burn- 
ing of fresh pyrethrum powder. Another way is to expose in shal- 
low dishes a mixture of formalin and milk or water, sweetened with 
a Httle sugar; one teaspoonful of conmiercial formalin to one teacupful 
of water or milk. Above all, however, cleanliness pays. 

Poison Ivy 

Poison Ivy (Rhus toxicodendron), which possesses an irritant 
poison, and is usually found on trees, walls and fences, somewhat re- 
sembles the Virginia Creeper. The plants, however, are easily dis- 
tinguished by comparison of the leaves, the Poison Ivy having three 
leaflets while the innocuous "Creeper" has five. The cheapest and 
most effective method of eliminating Poison Ivy is the simple one of 



372 



GARDEN GUIDE 



rooting up the plants and destroying them. The safest time for hand- 
ling the Ivy is in the Fall, after the plant has stopped growing and the 
sap is out of it. Overalls and gauntlet ed gloves should be worn. As a 
further precaution, grease the hands with lard and wash olf with 
strongly alkahne soap on the conclusion of t he work . In burning Poison 
Ivy keep away from the smoke. Thorough and repeated washing 
with warm water and alkaline soap as soon as possible after contact 
with the Ivy is advisable, and it should be borne in mind that the 
poison may be transferred indirectly from clothing, gloves and imple- 
ments, also from towels used by those who have touched the plant. 

It is a curious fact that some individuals experience no ill effects 
from contact with Poison Ivy, while others are affected even without 
actual touch. The poison produces acute inflammation, accompanied 
by intense burning and itching. Application of mildly astringent and 
sedative lotions will allay the irritation; boric acid, hyposulphite of 
sodium, sugar of lead, and zinc are regarded as effective remedies. In 
severe cases a physician should be consulted. 




Why not a perennial border like this between neighboring lawns, instead of a 

formal fence? 



\ 



INDEX TO CONTENTS 



A Page 

Aconite, Winter 144 

Adiantum (Maidenhair) . 151 

Ailanthus glandulosa -. .47 

Alpine Garden (see Rock Garden). 

Alyssum 93, 98 

Anchusa 97 

Anemone 76 

Angelica (Herb) 221 

Animal Life in the Garden .... 346-348 

Anise (Herb) 221 

Antirrhinum 94, 135 

Ants, Destroying 367 

Annuals and Biennials: 

Combinations and Location. 92- 94 
Planting and Transplanting. ... 89 

Preparation of Soil 91 

Seed Pods, Removing 91 

Seed Purchasing 88 

Soil and Fertilization 89, 91 

Sowing. 88 

Time to Sow Outdoors 89 

Transplanting 89 

- Annuals Useful for Cut Flowers. 94 

Foliage * 98 

For Edging 98 

For Rock Garden 158 

Lesser Known 97 

Biennials, Protection of 98, 99 

Apples 225 

Insects affecting. 296, 297 

Diseases of 313 

Apricots. 230 

Aquilegia 299 

Arctotis » 94 

Ash 46, 47 

Asparagus 186 

Asparagus Beetle (Insect) 297 

Asparagus Rust 313 

Asplenium (Fern) 151 

Aster . .103 

Beetle 398 

Disease 314 

Azalea 53, 57 



B Page 

Baby's Breath (Gypsophila)93, 96, 98 

Bachelor Buttons 93 

Balloon Vine 91 

Balm (Herb) 221 

Bayberry 57 

Beans . . 186 

Disease 314 

Insects affecting 298 

Beech ; . . 44 

Bees... 346 

Beets 188 

Disease 314 

Insects affecting 298 

Begonia, Tuberous 139 

Bellflowers (Campanula) 106 

Berried Shrubs 52 

Berry, Partridge (Mitchella 

repens) 56 

Biennials and Annuals (see An- 
nuals and Biennials.) 

Birch 44, 46, 298 

Birds in the Garden 349-356 

Berry bearing Shrubs, etc., for 

the Birds 355 

Bird Food . .354 

Bird Houses, How to make. 349-353 

Blackberries 230 

Disease 314 

Insects affecting 298 

Blooming Dates of Trees, Shrubs 

and Climbers 58 

Bog Plants 152-154 

Bonemeal 251 

Boneset (Herb) 221 

Bordeaux Mixture 312 

Box for Hedges 40 

Bran Mash, Poisoned 294 

Broccoli 188 

Brussels Sprouts 188 

Budding 276 



In this Index to Contents no attempt has been made to index all the species 
and varietal names mentioned in this book, except when these have special 
paragraphs given to them; otherwise, for instance, in the chapter on Annuals 
and Biennials, will be found listed all the more Avorthy varieties; in the chapter 
on Ferns, all the Ijest Ferns; in the chapter on l^runing is given a full list of 
nearly every plant which calls for i^runing treatment, and so on throughout 
aU the chapters. Every species or family is treated in its own particular chap- 
ter; hence, it was deemed unwise to» string out a list of hundreds of names 
which might serve but to confuse. 

373 



GARDEN GUIDE 



374 



" Page 

Bulbs (see also B ul b Chapter) .!_ 1 

Camassia 143 Muscari (Gmpe^ 

Chionodoxa. . . . 143 Hyacinth) 146 

Crocus 143 Narcissus 146 

Eremurus 144 Scillas (Squills). 147 

Fritillaria 144 Snowdrop 145 

Hyacinth orien- Summer Hya- 

talis 145 cinth 145 

Iris, English and Tulips 148 

Spanish 145 Winter Aconite. 144 

Lihes 123 

Bulbs, iConns, Tubers, Rhizomes 
and Root Stocks 367 

Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants 
A good list of Bulbs to grow. . . 143 

Culture and mulching 143 

Naturalizing 143 

Preparation of Beds 141 

Time of planting 142 

Burnet (Herb) 221 

Bushes for Wet Places 56 

C 

Cabbage • 189 

Insects affecting. 298, 299 

Disease 314 

Cacti ^ 158 

Calendula 95 

Calycanthus (Strawberry Shrub).. 52 

Camassia , 143 

Campanula 106 

Canary Bird Vine 91 

Candytuft (Iberis) 95 

Canker Worm (Insect) 264 

Cannas 104-106 

Canning Fruits and Vegetables 
for Winter. 357-362 

Canterbury Bells (see Bellflowers). 

Caraway (Herb) 221 

Cardoon 191 

Carbon Bisulphide 295 

Cardinal Climber (Vine) 91 

Carnation: 

Aphid 299 

Disease 314 

Carrots 189 

Castor Oil Bean (R. communis). . . 98 

Catalpa 47 

Catnip (Herb).. 221 

Cauliflower .191 

Celeriac 192 

Celery 192 

Caterpillar 299 

Disease 315 

Wintering in a Trench 216 

Centaurea 95 

Cercis (Red Bud) 51 

Cherries 231 

Disease '. 315 

Insects affecting 299 



Page 

Chestnut.. 47, 299 

Chicory 193 

Chamomile (.Herb).' 221 

Chionodoxa 143 

Chives (Herb) 221 

Chrysanthemums 112, 299 

Cineraria Green Fly 299 

Chionanthus 56 

Clethra ^. . . 56 

Climbing Fence Plants 42 

C.imbing Plants, Blooming dates 

of 58 

Coldframes 327-333 

See also Greenhouses. 

Coleus 107 

CoUards 193 

Columbine (Aquilegia) 299 

Commercial Fertilizer 250, 256 

Conservatories, attached to dwell- 
, ing. 
See Greenhouses. 

Coriander (Herb) 221 

Cordon Fruit Training 229 

Coreopsis 96 

Corn, Insects affecting 299 

Corn Salad 196 

Corn, Sweet 193 

Corrosive Sublimate 312 

Cosmos 96 

Cranberry, Insects affecting 300 

Cress 196 

Crocu? 143 

Disease 315 

Crown Imperial (Fritallaria) 144 

Cucumbers 196 

Disease 315 

Insects affecting 300 

Currants. . 231 

Disease 315 

Insects affecting 300 

Cyclamen Leaf Mite 300 

Cypress 46 

Cypress Vine 91 

Cypripedium spectabilis (Mocas- 
sin Flower) 153 

D 

Daffodil 146 

Dahlia.. 108-112, 300 

Daisies (Shasta, Michaelmas, etc.) 

112, lia, 114 

Delphinium 114 

Deutzia ► 51 

Dewberries 233 

Dianthus 133, 138 

Digitalis 116 

Dill (Herb) 221 

Diseases of Plants 309-318 



INDEX 



Page 

Dogwood 47, 300 

Drainage 370 

Dryopteris (Fern) 151 

E 

Egg Plant 197 

Disease 315 

Elder 46 

Insects affecting 300 

Elm (American) 48 

Elm Leaf Beetle (Insect) 300 

Endive .197 

Entrance, or Gate Plantings 14 

Eremurus 143 

Eschscholtzia 89 

Espalier Fruit Training. 229 

Euonymus Scale 301 

Evergreen Shrubs 56 

Evergreens 45, 46 

Hedges 40 

For Rock Garden 153 

Planting 41 

Pruning 264 

Everlasting (Straw) Flowers 94 

Everlasting Pea. 122 

F 

Fall Treatment of Plants 292 

Fences and Hedges 15, 39-42 

Fence Climbing Plants 42 

Fennel (Herb) 221 

Ferns 149-152 

Good Varieties, List of 151 

Soil, Insects affecting 301 

Spores 149 

Where to plant 149 

Fertilizers : 

Animal Manure. 249 

Bonemeal 251 

Commercial 250, 256 

Their Essentials 248 

Green Manures 250 

Home mixed 255 

Humus 253 

Lime ^ 252 

Nitrate of Soda 252 

Poultry Manure ' 252 

Sources of Supply 249 

Stable Manure 255 

Suitable for Vegetables and 

Fruit ^ 253 

Where and how to use 253 

Feverfew (Herb) 221 

Flagstaff, How to make and erect . 368 
Flies in Houses 371 



Flower Garden, the hardy. See 
Perennials. 



375 
Page 

Flower Seed Germination, Table 



of 100 

Forcing Structures, Useful little. ,332 
See also Greenhouses. 

Forgetmenot 96 

Formaldehyde 312 

Forsythia (Golden Bell) -.50, 57 

Fountain for Garden 165 

Foxglove (Digitalis) 116 

Frames. See Coldframes. 

Fritillaria 143 

Frost, Facts about 290 



Fruit for the Small Garden. . .223-243 

Cordon training 229 

Espalier training 229 

Ideal Garden, Plan for . . . .242, 243 

Preliminaries 224 

Apples 225 Loganberries . . . 239 

Apricots 230 Peaches 235 

Blackberries.. . .230 Pears 237 

Cherries 231 Plums 238, 317 

Currants 231 Quince 239 

Dewberries 233 Raspberries. . . .240 

Gooseberries 233 Strawberries. . . . 240 

Grapes 233 

Fruit Canning for Winter use . 357-364 

Fruit Trees, Transplanting 284 

Fruits, Suitable Fertilizers for.. . . .253 
Fruits and Vegetables for Win- 

- ter 357-364 

Drying 362 

Time for scalding, blanching 

and sterilizing 364 

Fumigants for Insects 295 

Furniture for the Garden 160-166 



G 

Garden Boards and Their Uses.. . .368 
Garden Ferns. See Ferns. 

Garden Furniture 160-166 

Bird Bath 166 

Fountain 165 

Garden Benches 160 

Garden House 162 

Rustic Chair 163 

Rustic Woodwork 1 60 , 164 

Sun Dial 162 

Garden Operations, Calendar of 

Monthly 339-345 

Garden Plan for a Fruit 242, 243 

Garden Tools 308, 334-338 

Garden, Vegetable 173-222 

Gardening, Bungalow or Mid- 
Summer 244-247. 

Fitting the Land 245 

Seeds and Plants 245 

Vegetables to grow from Seeds.. 245 

Flowers for July Planting 246 

Gardening Pointers 214 



376 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Page 

Gate, or Entrance Plantings 14 

Geraniums.. 115, 301 

Germination of Flower Seeds 100 

Ginkgo Tree 48 

Gladiolus 116-118 

Godetia 98, 96 

Golden Bell (Forsythia) 50, 57 

Gooseberry 233 

Insects affecting 301 

Diseases 316 

Grafting .274-276 

Grapes 233 

Diseases 316 

Insects affecting 301 

Varieties of . 235 

Grass: Mowing 37 

Rolling, Weeding, Turfing 38 

Sowing 36 

Grass Plots and Lawns 34 

Greenhouses: Advantages of 322 

For the Amateur 323 

Heating 325 

What can be grown in 322 

H 

Hardy Perennials. See Perennials. 
Hardy Flowers, General Selection 

83- 83 

Hawthorns 51 

Heath. 56 

Hedges and Fences 15, 39-42 

Soil, distance, etc 41, 42 

Planting 41 

Pruning 262 

Hellebore 294 

Hemlock 46 

Herbs, culinary, flavoring and 

medicinal 220 

From Seed 220 

List of 221, 222 

Winter Protection 220 

Hibiscus 118 

Hickory 47 

Insects affecting 302 

Holly 54 

Hollyhock (Althsea) 75, 99 

Home Grounds, Planning the. .13-33 

Composition of a Garden 13 

Drives and Paths 14 

Locating the Dwelling House. 16, 17 
Planting Plans and Keys 

14, 15; 20-33 

Shiiibs; treatment of the 18 

Honeysuckle 51 

Horehound (Herb) 221 

Horse Radish 197 



Page 

Hotbeds 327-333 

See also Greenhouses. 
House and Grounds: 

Methods of Planting around the 17 
Best Position for with Reference 

to the Sun 16 

Plan for semi-detached houses.. 21 

Plan for Plot 50x100 ft 23, 25 

Plan for Plot 50x150 ft 27 

Plan for Plot 75x150 ft 29 

Plan for Plot 190x190 ft 31 

Plan for two-acres, estate of . . . 33 

Humus .253 

Hyacinth 143, 146 

Hydrangea 51 

Hydrocyanic Acid Gas, L^se of 295 

Hyssop (Herb) 221 



Immortelles 94 

Insect Pests of Cultivated Plants: 

Biting or Chewing 293, 308 

Fumigants for 295 

General recommendations 295 

Life of 293 

Material used to control 294 

Species of (46 illustrated) ... 296-308 

Spraying Equipment for 293 

Stages in Cycle of Development. 293 

Sucking 293, 308 

Iris 118-122, 145, 302 



Juniper 54, 302 



Kale 198 

Kerosene Emulsion 295 

Kerria 52 

Kochia 93 

Kohl-Rabi 198 



Labeling Plants 

Larkspur (Delphinium) 

Lathyrus 

Laurel, Mountain 54, 

Lavender (Herb) 

Lawn Making 

Care ' 

First Preparation Most Im 
portant 

Mowing 

Rolling 

Seed Mixtures for 

Sowing 

Turfing 

Weeding 



216 
95 

122 
57 

221 
34 
37 



34 
37 
3S 
35 
36 
38 
38 



INDEX 



377 



Page 

Lawns and Grass Plots . 34 

Layering 277 

Lead Arsenate 294 

Leaf Coverings 288 

Leek 108 

Lettuce 199, 302, 316 

Ligu strum (Privet) 52 

Lilac 50 

Diseases 316 

Lilies 123 

Aphid 302 

Diseases 316 

Winter Protection 289 

Lime 252 

Lime Sulphur, Commercial.. . 294, 312 

Linden, Insects affecting 303 

Lobelia 93, 98, 153 

Locust 47, 303 

Loganberries 239 

Lonicera 51 

M 

Madonna Lilies (Lilium candidum) 124 

Magnolia 47, 57 

Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) 48 

Manures : 

Green 250 

Poultry 252 

Stable 255 

Maple 45, 46, 48, 51, 303 

Marigold 125, 221 

Marjoram (Herb) 221 

Marshmallow 118 

Melons .' .200, 303 

Memorandum Book, Garden 216 

Mice and Rabbits 365 

Mint, Spear and Pepper (Herb).. .221 

Miscible Oil 295 

Mock Orange (Philadelphus) 51 

Moles, Eradicating 365 

Month by Month in Garden... 339-345 
Mosquitoes, Remedies and Pre- 
ventives ..212 

Mountain Laurel 54, 57 

Muscari 146 

Mushrooms 200 

Mustard 201, 221 

Myrica 57 

Myrtle (Vinca minor) 77 

N 

Narcissus 146 

Nasturtium Vine 303 

Nicotine Solution 294 

Nitrate of Soda 252 

Nursery Stock, Cultivated and 

Wild 63 

Oak 44, 47, 48, 303 

Okra 201 



O > Page 

Onions 201 

Osmunda (Fern) 152 

Oxydendron 45 

Paint 370 

Pansv 125 

Papavor 134, 305 

Parsley 202, 221 

Parsnip 202 

Peach 235, 304, 316 

Pear 237, 304, 317 

Peas 203, 304, 316 

Pennyroval (Herb) 221 

Peony 127-132, 304, 317 

Peppers 203 

Perennials : 

Autumn Planting 81 

Borders, Considerations for 78 

Borders, Plans for 86, 87 

Borders, Situation of 78 

Combinations of 75 

Cultivation 81 

For Rock Garden 83 

General Selection of 83- 85 

List of 30 Hardy Indispensable . 83 

Planting 79 

Replanting, Necessity for 81 

Soil, Preparation of 79 

Spring Planting 79 

Staking 81 

Watering 81 

Periwinkle (Vinca) 77 

Petunia 127 

Phlox 132, 304 

Pigeons .346 

Pine 45, 304 

Pinks .133 

Plane, Oriental 48 

Planting Table for Vegetables 185 

Planting Plans and Keys there to. 20-33 

Plants for Waterside 152-154 

Plants, Labeling 216 

Plant Propagation : 

Budding 276 

Cuttings, Hardwood 268 

Leaf. . 270 

Perennials 270 

Root 270 

Soft- wooded 269 

Division of Perennials 271 

Flowers, Seeds of, Sown In- 
doors 272 

Grafting — Cion, Cleft, Whip or 

Tongue 274-276 

Layering 277 

Perennial and Annual Seed, 

Sowing 271 

Shrub and Tree Seed, Sowing. .272 
Vegetable Seed, Sowing 271 



378 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Page 

Plum 238, 317 

Insects affecting 305 

Pointers for Gardeners 214 

Poison Ivy 371 

Poplar 305 

Poppy, Oriental (Papaver).. .134, 305 
Porch Baskets, Boxes and Plants. 

167-172 

Poultry Manure 252 

Poultry Possibilities 346 

Potatoes 204 

Potato, Insects affecting 

Aphids on 305 

Colorado Beetle 305 

Flea Beetle. 305 

Privet 52 

Privet Borer .305 

Propagation, see Plant Propagation 
Protecting Plants in Winter.... 289-290 

Pruning 267 

Also see directions for numerous 
species and varieties enumer- 
ated in list, pages 264-267 

Pumpkins 206 

Q 

Quince 239, 306 

R 

Rabbits ^.347, 365 

Radishes 206, 306 

Raspberries 240 

Insects affecting 306 

Rats, How to Destroy 366 

Red Hot Poker (Tritoma) 138 

Rhododendrons 306 

Rhubarb 206 

Rock Garden, The 155-159 

A Pretty Rock Garden 155 

Construction and Planting. 157, 158 

Location 155 

Plants for 83, 158, 159 

Rosemary (Herb) 222 

Rose Garden: 

Bed Designs 63 

Diseases 69, 317 

Distance Apart. . . 66 

Insects Troubling Roses. . .67, 306 

Location 64 

Pruning 67, 260-262 

Soil and] Planting Directions 

64, 65, 66 

Summer Treatment 67 

Time to Plant 66 

Width of Beds 64 

Winter Protection 289 



Page 

Roses: Brier 70 

Climbing 71 

How to Cut 67 

Hybrid Perpetual 73 

Hybrid Tea 72 

Moss 74 

Pernetiana , 74 

Polyantha 74 

Prairie 71 

Rambler 74 

Rugosa 70 

Tea 72 

Varieties, A few 70 

Rustic Furniture 160, 164 

Rutabaga 207 



S 



Sage (Herb) 222 

Salsify 207 

Salvia 135 

Savory, Summer (Herb) 222 

Scarlet Sage ^ 135 

Scilla 147 

Sea Kale.... 207 

Seeds, Germination of Flower.. . . . 100 

Shrubs: Beds of . 51 

Broad-leaved Evergreen 52 

Edible Berried 52 

Flowering Dates of 58 

For Ground Cover .54, 55 

For Indoor Use or Forcing 57 

For Wet Places. 56 

For Low-Growing and Trail- 
ing 54, 55 

Pruning 262 

Some of Best Varieties 49 

Winter Protection 290 



Azaleas 53, 57 

Berberis 51 

Bridal Wreath. . 50 

Calycanthus 52 

Clethra 56 

Chionanthus.. . . 56 
Cotoneaster. ... 55 

Daphne 55-56 

Deutzia 51 

Elseagnus 52 

Euonymus 52 

Forsythia.. . .50, 57 
Golden Bell.. 50, 57 

Holly 54 

Honeysuckle.... 51 
Hydrangea. .... 51 

Hypericum 55 

Ilex 54 

Kalmia 54, 57 

Kerria 52 

Lilac ^0 

Lonicera 51 55 



Magnolia 57 

MountainLaurel 54 

Myrica 55, 57 

Philadelphus . . . 51 

Privet 52 

Rhododendrons. 

52, 56 

Rhus 54 

Snowball 51 

Spiraea 50, 51 

Strawberry 

Shrub 52 

Sumach 54 

Sweet Fern 55 

Vacciniums 

52. 56, 57 
Viburnum.. .51, 52 

Vinca 54 

Weigela 51 

White Fringe. . . 56 
Xanthorrhiza.. . 55 



INDEX 



370 



Page 

Shrubs and Climhors, Blooming 

Dates of 58-61 

Snapdragonr 94, 135, 306 

Snowball 51 

Snowdrop (Galanthua) 145 

Sowing Table for Vegetables 185 

Soap and Water (Insecticide) 294 

Sorrel 45 

Spinach 207 

Spiraea 50, 306 

Spraying Equipment for Insects.... 293 

Squash 207 

Squash Bug 306 

Stable Manure 255 

Storage Cellar, the Home Food 

Winter 218 

Straw Flowers 94 

Strawberries 240 

Insects troubling 307 

Diseases 317 

Sweet Basil (Herb) 221 

Sweet Potato 318 

Sweet Peas 91, 135-138 

Sweet William (Dianthus) 138 

Swiss Chard 210 

Syringa (Lilac) 50 



Tagetes 125 

Tansy (Herb) 222 

Tarragon (Herb) 222 

Thorn 45 

Thyme (Herb) . 222 

Tobacco, Insects affecting 307 

Trees and Shrubs 43-63 



Trees, General List of: 



Acer 51 

Ailanthus 47 

Ash 46, 47 

Beech. 44 

Birch 44, 46 

Ceris (Red Bud) 51 

Chestnut 47 

Crab Apple 45 

Cypress 46 

Dogwood 47 

Elder 46 

Elm 44, 48 

Gingko (Maiden- 
hair) 48 

Hawthorn 51 

Hemlock 46 

Hickory 47 

Holly 54 



J uniper 54 

Locust 47 

MaidenhairTree 48 
Maple.. .45, 46, 48 

Magnolia 47 

Oak, Pin 47 

Oak, Red.. . .44, 48 
Oxydendron. ... 45 

Pine 45 

Plane, Oriental. 48 

Poplar 47 

Sorrel 45 

Sweet Gum 45 

Thorn 45 

Tulip (Lirioden- 

dron) 44, 46 

Willow 46 



Page 

Trees: For Shade and Shelter 

upon the Lawn 44, 45 

Evergreen 45 

Colored Foliage Trees 45 

Blooming Dates 58 

For Lawn 44, 45 

For Streets 46, 47 

Planting 48 

Moving Large 285 

Pruning Tables 264-267 

Seed Sowing 272 

Windbreaks, For 290 

Winter Protection 290 

Tomaioes 211, 307, 318 

Tools, Garden 334-338 

Tritoma 138 

Tubers, Rhizomes, Rootstocks, 

Bulbs, Corms 367 

Tulips 148, 318 

Tulip Tree (Liriodendron).44, 46, 307 
Turnips 211, 212, 307 

V 

Vacciniums 52, 56, 57 

Valerian (Herb).... ..222 

Vegetables, Canning for Win- 
ter 357-362 

Vegetable Garden, The 173-222 

Canning for Winter Use. . . . 357-362 
Celery, Wintering in a Trench. .216 
Cultivation, General Principles 

of 181 

Digging the Soil 177 

Drainage of 175, 215 

Fitting it into the General 

Scheme 174 

Formulating a Planting Plan. . . 174 

Gardening Tools 184 

Growing Plants for Setting Out. 176 

Harvesting and Storing 183 

Hotbed, How to Make 176 

Insects and Diseases '. . , 183 

See also Insect Pests. 

Manuring 177 

Mid-Summer Gardening 245 

Soils, Methods of Testing for 

Acidity 215 

Sowing and Planting Table 185 

Sowing 178, 179 

Transplanting 178, 180 

Vegetable Grower, Useful Point- 
ers for 214-216 

Watering 181 



380 



GARDEN GUIDE 



Vegetable Garden, The: Page 

[Cultural Directions for 

Lettuce 199 

Melons 200 

Mushrooms 200 

Mustard 201 

Okra 201 

Onions 201 

Parsley 202 

Parsnips 202 

Peas 203 

Peppers 203 

Potatoes 204 

Pumpkins 206 

Radishes 206 

Rhubarb .206 

Rutabaga 207 

Salsify 207 

Sea Kale 207 

Spinach 207 

Squash 207 

Swiss Chard.. . .210 

Tomatoes 21 

Turnips 212 

Veg. Marrow. . .212 

Watercress 213 

Watermelons. . :213 

Vegetable Marrow 212 

Vegetables for Winter 217 

Vegetables, Suitable Fertilizers for.253 

Viburnum 51 

Vinea minor (Myrtle, or Peri- 
winkle) 77 

Vines 55, 91 

Violets ^ 307 



Asparagus 


.186 




186 




188 


BroccoH 


188 


Brussels Sproutsl88 


Cabbage 


189 




189 




191 


Cauliflower. . . 


191 


Celeriac 


192 




192 


Chicory 


193 


Chinese Cab 






193 




193 


Corn, Sweet. . . , 


,193 


Corn Salad.. . . 


196 




196 




196 


Egg Plant 


197 


Endive 


197 


Horse Radish . . 


.197 


Kale 


198 


Kohl-Rabi 


198 


Leek 


198 



W Page 
Walnut 307 

Water Garden, The: 

AVaterside Plants 152-154 

Water Lily Pond 153 

Watercress 213 

Water Lilies. 153, 154 

Watermelons 213 

Weigela 51 

Wet Places, Bushes for 56 

Willow 46, 308 

Windbreaks for Trees and Shrubs. 290 
Window Boxes: 

Concrete 169 

Plants for 170-172 

Porch 168 

Self- Watering 168 

Wicker : 169 

Winter Protection of Plants: 

Coldframes, Mat Covered 289 

Frost, Facts About 290 

Leaf Coverings 288 

Lilies and Roses 289 

Reed or Straw Mats 288 

Trees and Shrubs, Windbreaks 

for 290 

Weeds, Lawn and Garden 319-321 

Weeding Lawns 38 

Winter Storage of Vegetables.217, 218 
Woods, Trees and Shrubs from... . 63 
Wormwood (Herb) 222 

Z 

Zinnia .139 



GARDEN GUIDE 



381 



MEMORANDA 



GARDEN GUIDE 

MEMORANDA 



GARDEN GUIDE 



S88 



MEMORANDA 



384 GARDEN GUIDE ' J 

MEMORANDA 



The Home Fruit Grower 



By PROF. M. G. KAINS 




A CLEAR, simple, practical and comprehensive volume for the amateur 
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Buying Nursery Stock 
Season to Plant 
Preparation, Fertilization 

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Cover Cropping 

Pruning 

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Spraying 

Harvesting 

Storing 



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